krass76

Hello, I'm currently looking to buy a new 104-key keyboard. Since I bottom out my keys anyways, I don't really see the point in shelling out for a mechanical keyboard. What I would like to have is a good membrane keyboard. I'm doing a lot more typing than gaming and I don't even need backlight. The few macros I have are in AHK so I don't need any macro keys, also dedicated media keys (even volume up/down) are useless to me. Just good typing and little key-wobble are important to me. Maybe you guys have some suggestions as what I've been looking for seems hard to come by.

for audio you need a good Intel CPU (sadly, Zen isn't out yet). It should not throttle so no ultra-thin'n-light for gaming you will need a GPU. Look at the Dell Inspiron 15 (7559-0092). Both a bit over 1000€ but the CPU is a 6700HQ. You won't get a much better CPU in a laptop. Even has a GTX 960M. So gaming is very possible. Ram is only 8GB and the HDD a hybrid drive. Drawback: not very portable due to bigger size. but hey, you wanted performance!

solution: underclock AND then undervolt. means less performance but let's be real, watercooling isn't cheap at all either way... and you won't be reducing the noise by extremely much. maybe make the GPUs exhaust into a tube that goes out the window or something.

any other suggestions?

shouldn't be because I updated the driver about a week ago. before-> same error; after -> same error. oh, yes, sometimes I also get an IRQL_not_less_or_equal BSOD, mostly after coming off a light load. But I just suspected that that was me pushing my 2600k a tiny bit too hard (4.6GHz at 1.404V).

Hello, I appear to have some ram that is dying. It is Corsair Vengeance LP 1600MHz CL9 DDR3. The ram has never been overclocked. Uppon cold boot i often get a message that some instruction referenced 0x00..020, which could not be read. Always that address; for almost a month now. And the error comes mostly from the Wacom driver but I remember also seeing it coming from other programs that load with Windows. I already let memtest run 4 full "laps", it couldn't find anything. Then I ran all the tests 50x on the first couple addresses (0x0..0 to 0x0..200). Nothing. It seems that as long as the ram is warm (physically), it works just fine. So, what would you do in my place now? RMA the first stick? It's not a huge deal but it is an annoyance and I fear it "spreading" to the rest of the stick (I know that that isn't how it works). Because it ran just fine for more than two years.

wouldn't get a 2670 for gaming. the single thread clock speed is too low. And modern titles will load min. 2 but mostly 4 cores (not equally), so expect it running at base clock speed during games. Which is 2.6GHz. The old Sandy Bridge turboboost is just that stupid. And you CAN NOT overclock it. a 2600k on the other hand only is about 20-30% worse at IPC than a 6700k. And oh yes does an unlocked multiplier overclock beautifully. Intel has been pretty much sitting on their asses...waiting for AMD to play Ketchup. Which Zen most probably will do. I wonder if Intel is just sitting with like 10 IPC-improving architectures in the closet, waiting for Zen to come out just to then do a "surprise buttsecks" 50% ipc improvement. the point is: you will want 4 physical cores that have a good IPC compared to Skylake and which can clock high. The 1220v5 is gud if you can bring it up to 3.5-4GHz. The FX8350 has 8 cores and clocks fairly high but the IPC is shit. By about 40%. The other ones only have 2 cores. Multithreading (or the AMD equivalent) is BS for most real tasks.

man, we need some watercooling-and-silence-firendly 19" cases like linus built for himself... maybe without the window... and just plain powdercoat black...

"back in ma' day" (sandy bridge) k vs non-k was only about unlocked multiplier or not.

oh yeah ur rite.

that's basically it. buying a 6700k and not overclocing it is like throwing away 10-20% performance. And if you're honest, you won't ever upgrade the motherboard without also getting a new cpu. if you only game OC'ing won't make a difference tho. And in the case you don't want to OC, get a 6700 instead of a 6700k. tiny bit cheaper.

assuming you are not a troll: watch a bit of ltt. the build quides, especially. also I think they have a video on how to install a cpu (so you don't damage anything). and yes, the bequiet comes with gud thermal paste.

use an asus z170 board. the rest looks fine to me, maybe except for the cooler (price-to-performance on macho hr02 may be better) and the PSU (go for a Leadex if you can afford it).

Apple couldn't develop such a thing if they were dying. They needed a replacement for Firewire 800 because USB3.0 was making it look very old. USB3 lacked some neato Firewire features (like daisychainging) so they rung up their buddies at intel who were cooking up something very tasty and expensive, called thunderbolt. Apple then ran with that. It worked because Apple customers were willing to put big bucks into the hardware-accessories (and their cables).

switch to Tidal pleez; bettur qwaliteee lol JK Maybe get in contact with the google play store / play music support... via email that should be possible. You payed, so you have the right to access it.

u kno Thunderbolt is an Intel tech, rite? sorry couldn't resist

16GB is so cheap nowadays... you won't regret it. also comes in handy for chrome (or browsing in general) with many open tabs.

cooler: noctua. if they cost the same, always noctua. you not only get a good cooler, you also get the great fan. ram: get the cheapest DDR4-2133. the CL shouldn't be high. 16GB total. fancy heat spreaders are just looks. gpu: wait a month for RX480. had the 960strix and it's very good @ 1080p but 480 should rek it hardcore (even in single-monitor applications). until then, use the iGPU of the 6500. they are surprisingly good nowadays. hdd: first comes the ssd. MX200 or 850EVO. 256GB should do for OS and programs. the blue WDs are fine but getting a hdd first and having your OS on that will diminish the quality of your experience. it will be the big smelly bottleneck. remember: only using about half to 2/3 of an SSD is what keeps it very fast. OS: Win10 is gud but use "O&O shutup", "Windows 10 tracking disable tool" and a portable version of "spybot anti-beacon" to turn "Spyware 10" into legit "Windows 10". Also, fuck Cortana. It's like with Siri. You use it once to try it. Then once to laugh. Then once to find something out (which results in cringe and disappointment because cortana uses bing). And from then on, you forget about that useless box that takes up what, 50x400 pixels on your screen? Then for security use "TinyWall". Turns the Windows firewall into something useful (you whitelist programs which you grant access to the internetz). Adding an antivirus (Kaspersky is gud) might not be a bad idea but that's up to you.

nono, it is water. there is no liquid that conducts heat better than plain old boring H2O. maybe some additives. and if manufacturing were perfect and tolerances nonexistent, these things were truly maintenance-free. as they are in most cases. 3 years already, huh? it didn't evaporate just "through the walls" (only hydrogen, and in some cases helium do that). could be that the tubing didn't seal 1000%. just pull the h110 out of your case, shake it around a bit and listen closely. if there is just water missing, replace with distilled water. maybe add some mayhem biocide to stop anything from growing in there as you can't work on the cooler in a sterile environment, thus stuff will get in when you open it. zip-tie on the ends so it doesn't leak again. if there is gunk in it, rinse with lots of tap water. then mix tap water with vinegar (not apple vinegar), fill the cooler and let it sit for a bit. then rinse with tap water again. then put distilled water inside it, maybe add some mayhem biocide to stop anything from growing in there again. zip-tie on the ends so it doesn't leak again. alternatively, and this would probably be the best option here, make use of your warranty. get in touch with the corsair support (not the seller). the h110 has 5 years of warranty. just try re-seating the h110's waterblock on your cpu before doing that. clean off the old thermal paste (kitchen/toilet paper and (isopropyl) rubbing alcohol) and use new stuff. if you don't have any lying around, get arctic MX-4. simple and just works. also good for gpu thermal paste replacement. when I did this to my former HD6870 it improved temps 4°C over stock (point is: that's really good stuff).

maybe the water inside the H110 evaporated? refilling can be done with destilled water, although I'd add some antimicrobic watercooling agent. Also make sure you have no leaks afterwards. zipties do help with that. Or new tubing if the old one tore, is deformed after taking it out or something. Primochill does good tubing. but refill+sela with zipties should do it though totally forgot: if water had the chance to get out, the loop might also have gunked up (algae). In that case add a rinse with tap water and vinegar before refilling it. but you'll see what it is. reseating can only fix anything if the seating was bad in the first place. should of become a problem directly after installation.

more than fine. single 1070=150W CPU=100 to 150W total max is 450W that is even doable on a 550W PSU as long as it's not some cheap chinese brand where if it says 550W on the box, that means 100W IRL with my tiny 550W Leadex I wouldn't even think twice about it. with a proper 750W PSU the fan shouldn't even spin up much.

As far as I am informed it is unlike the Mac OS X Password which secures the system-wide keychain and is needed for changes to the system and just responsible for logging into your PC (and you creating encrypted archives). Windows UAC which *should* prevent unnoticed changes to the system does not require/rely on a user password. Having none should be fine on a desktop at home. That said, the Kaspersky internet-security is not their best option. If you already bought it that's fine but if you're about to (still trial), get just the Kaspersky Antivirus. In any case, I absolutely recommend TinyWall (free & easy & lightweight & effective). It configures the Windows Firewall in a quite secure way (whitelist only) and only allows programs access to the internet that you specifically told it are OK to use the internet. That means when you install TinyWall none of your programs (not even your browser) will have internet access until such time as you tell TinyWall that they are allowed to. Viruses, Keyloggers and Trojans will also be denied internet access. There is some good stuff on Youtube on how to use it (please do watch that first). Once you get what to do it's as easy as browsing to the exe you want to unblock within TinyWall and clicking ok. Like opening a word document. Configuring may take 15 minutes total but then it doesn't ever bother you and even if you have some undetected "infection", it simply can't phone home. If you add a new program that you want to give internet access, you'll have to unblock that though.

Hello, I have been looking for something like this for my 2600k GA-Z68X-UD3H-B3 system for a while now but to no avail. Situation: I write music on my PC. Because I want the most performance for virtual instruments and effects I overclocked the 2600k to 4.6GHz (@1.404V-1.42V, I know, kinda high but that worked for far more than two years now just fine). As it is I already have to "render" (bounce, if that tells you something) my instruments very often. At the stock 3.4GHz some of my synths don't do very well. Speedstep, C3/C6, C1E, EIST and Turboboost are disabled since they caused hiccups and stuttering. So 4.6GHz constantly. Even on catvideos \m/ or forums ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°) But my PC is only used for music production 30% of the time. The rest is stuff for university, youtube and a bit of TF2. And restarting and changing in the BIOS isn't an option; I have to get my ideas down as quickly as possible. Now in the summer my room gets toasty quite quickly. Even if it isn't really hot outside. Question: Is there a tool you can set up to have two profiles, preferably in-tray, where you set up two OC profiles (e.g. one stock; 3.4GHz, stock voltage (I believe 1.25V), one the current OC profile with 4.6GHz etc) and then quickly switch between them in-OS? If not, would there be any possibility to pass this idea on to ASUS, Gigabyte and MSI? The nicest thing ever would of course be standardization and then one ultra-lightweight (not more than one of two MB) utility that can alter the heat-heavy values (VCore, Multiplier, BCLK etc.) from within the OS on the fly based on manually created profiles...

any suggestions on what to buy at about lettersize (not the entire desk)?

aren't they rather cold?