MR2

Nice post in general and definitely helpful. I'll start doing some testing tomorrow and would it be fine if I ever decided to DM you some questions or so? You seem to have a bit of experience and I'm also wondering.. is the Hyper 212 Evo I have good enough? I mean.. My PC is on "Performance" power plan where it runs constantly at 100%, and right now with an AC keeping the room at about 18C (64F) then the CPU is at around 43C (109F or something) - just sitting on YouTube, Chrome, etc no games running.The GPU is at 59C and it's on the default fan options or so. Is that a bad starting point & maybe I should invest in a better cooler or some case fans before OCing? Just wondering about this stuff, better safe than sorry.

So, at the title says.. looking for a bit of overclocking help. (For both CPU & GPU) I've got a few beginner questions & some more about the process itself. 1) Is overclocking worth it? Is there any processor degradation of sorts, or will it shorten my CPU's lifespan? (I mean, going to upgrade it anyways in 2 years or less hopefully) It this a just, better way to squeeze more performance out of your CPU or is it kinda risky? I know tons of people that buy "k" model i7s and never plan on overclocking, so just wondering. 2) If it's worth it, how do I go about it for my system for both my CPU & GPU. Firstly, specs. CPU - Intel i7-4790K CPU Cooler - Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo GPU - MSI GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Power Supply - Corsair CX500 or 600.. Motherboard - MSI - Z97-G45 Gaming Mobo Now, I would assuming the GPU OC's would be done in MSi Afterburner or so, and the CPU OCing is in the BIOS, but I have no clue about voltages & all that stuff. That's kinda why I'm here. :^) Any help would be appreciated.

That sounds like terrible luck, how long did you have those 5 Seagate Barracudas? But definitely if you're looking for "years", those brands you listed (WD/Toshiba/HGST) are great. There's a reason why I only put game recordings and unimportant jazz on my 3TB Barracuda.

I happen to own a 1TB WD Black, and a 3TB Seagate Barracuda (and a dead 1TB Barracuda) , for loudness - my WD Black has always been louder and slower than my Seagate Barracudas. Keep in mind, the WD Black has been louder but it also is the one running my games (but I've had my games on the Barracudas in the past) In English, WD Blacks are louder & not really worth the money at all. || Not even blues. Stick to Seagate Barracudas. I've learned to. Unless you want a longer lasting hard drive. Seagate can't win there. Note - The dead 1TB drive took around 4 years to die, and that was most likely due to magnets and hardware "abuse".. (don't ask..)

I know this isn't so useful but I know a friend who's G3 + G4 both just outright died so.. Also seems this has happened before on other forums *right here*

Then download the ISO, make a bootable USB and re-install Windows?

Some Antivirus software will do this, and you probably can reinstall it if you want to but make sure you make an exception for those programs in the settings/wherever you do that. I remember Norton/Avast like to block games like CS:GO when they get updates or programs without a long history of being on the internet so.. Least you fixed it

Hasn't been resolved and you said it's been happening for 2 days, same here.

Yeah, I've been having similar issues recently as well with well over 100mb download, so...guess it happens. Somethings just can't be resolved on our ends. D:

I'm not too smart about the best cameras to get, especially for $200 but what I can say is, you could simply get something like a Westage SH-GL01 Extended Battery case for a GoPro which will increase the size, weight and give you some extra battery life. Other than that, there is the Sony AS50 - http://www.sony.com/electronics/actioncam/hdr-as50/specifications It can do 1080p 60fps or 720p 120fps And it's a tiny bit more hand friendly. If 60fps isn't a deal-breaker for you, or you don't need an "action cam" , there are options like the Samsung WB350F, or the Panasonic Lumix DMC-ZS45 (have never owned any of them though, going off online reviews. Sorry. D: )

Great short, nice to watch. Mr.B-roll settin' up his game constantly.

I should overclock, considering I have a K model Intel processor and I can OC both my CPU & GPU, but I decide not to. Even though normally I can run GTA V at around Very High 1080p 60fps, but with OC I can get around High/Very High 1440p 60fps... although my 1080p monitor is the main reason I don't keep that overclock. I should get around to that, now that I think about it.....nah.

I'd only sell it if you can currently find a laptop (or if you want to build that desktop) that fits your needs. Just make sure the next upgrade is something worth it. ^-^ (The Sager NP8151 doesn't look too big, for something with a GTX 1060) But then again, what do I know? I'm a desktop user and haven't had a laptop in forever.

Site is legit, I've used it a few times before to buy games. I got a legitimate copy of GTA V there for around $32 CAD, which was around half of the price that Steam had it for. Thought it might be too good to be true, nope it was true.

You'll do just fine. :^) I believe in you, bucko. Not that I recommend this but when I built my latest PC, I did most of it on my bed & carpet, while wearing socks - I think it's a bit hard to kill components, although my friend had once rubbed his RAM module a lot before putting it into his PC then the new PC didn't work for a solid 24 hours. As long as you don't rub your RAM, you're fine.

I happen to have the same CPU & GPU as you SemiSolid1, what I can say is for me I had the issue back when I opened up CS:GO it'd be capped at 30fps, until I alt-tabbed and alt-tabbed back in. To fix this, I turned off the Xbox DVR function as Jade had recommended.

I personally use Picasa as MrSpeed recommended, but the guide that MrUnknownEMC had linked is great as well.

^ This right here. I believe you don't "need" an i5, but it'd be extremely in your best interest to get one for the 480, so you'd have an overall good setup. Who buys AMD tho? Also, he recommended the i5-2500k because the K means you can overclock it. You should be able to overclock the latest i3 Skylakes, I believe Science Studio made a video on it..but still, wouldn't count on that. I think getting an i5 that's a K model is your best bet, TheCODclown25.

As an owner of the Logitech G35 headset, I can say they don't break that fast, if you take extreme care of them but they have like the plastic connectors I believe, so just search up "broken G35" or "broken ______" logitech headset. Common trend on where it's breaking.

Out of those options, I'd go for the Clouds & they'll be a popular choice on the LTT forums. Maybe because they're just good.

*Just my opinion due to my limited knowledge* If 15GB is a lot for you for a full competitive CS:GO match, might be hard to get even smaller file sizes. I'm someone who believes in "quality" and having really high quality content on YouTube. Now, I record with OBS Studio using Nvidia NVENC at 1080p 60 with the exact same setup recommended by JackFrags https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=svrpFWMkmd0 DxTory will always be larger from what I know, you could try custom codecs or maybe Lagarith but... don't think so. I have no Bandicam experience, sorry. Shadowplay is probably your best bet along with OBS, you'll have to poke OBS a ton. I don't know what to tell you, could record gameplay, edit, render, then render that video in handbrake and delete the gameplay to save hard drive space? I don't know your situation so..

I'd say it's a good idea, I agree with Energycore where he says to take a percentage of the build, since it'll take longer to make a better build but as long as you make them possibly sign some sort of short contract, even if it just has a few bullet points saying that if it breaks, it's not your fault. If it breaks, they can pay you to fix it (you know, whatever you want or deem that is right) If you can do this, and make a good amount of money from it, go for it. Best of luck either way, ♠FlamieMeister♠

I'd personally go with the 1440p monitor. In my mind, it's more future-proof and you'll get a higher resolution while gaming which in the end (for me) is what's important, not "ultrawides" but this is for you. I have a GTX 970 and I'd go for the 1440p monitor either way, if it doesn't run games great - you could always overclock that CPU/GPU, as I've done it with my 4790k + 970 at 1440p and had/have no complaints. (Although my monitor is 1080p)