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PianoPlayer88Key

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Posts posted by PianoPlayer88Key

  1. It's on the way. 🙂 

     

    DroixGlobal-GPDWinMax22023(R764G2T)ordered-2024-03-041505.jpg.cc81719b44251f0b7bf260785f220dac.jpg

    I'll also want to get a case for it, I've generally been happy with my Case Logic case for my current 15.6" laptop, although it's kinda falling apart some.  (Probably cause I pack too much into it.)  Hopefully I can find something locally.  Or maybe I should plan a trip to the Tustin Micro Center in the next week or two, as after that I'll be going to Utah (Orem / Provo / south Salt Lake area) and probably staying there several months or so.  (Also I should get a couple pair of cargo pants, Big 5 locally has some Carhartt pants that have pretty big cargo pockets that I'm pretty sure would fit this laptop.)

  2. Okay why are the emojis becoming absolutely gigantic when I copy/paste from drafts to here 😄  Also another in-line image was supposed to be like 320x256 pixels.  Does the forum software not remember every nuance from where I copied from, when I'm copying / pasting with formatting preserved?

     

     

    3 hours ago, tkitch said:

    for mobile internet, you'd need to pay for a separate data line for your handheld, you know that right? 

    Yes I know, I'm thinking around $60-80/month would be fine, maybe even $100 on months that I have heavy usage.  TBH I'm not sure how much data I'll need ... sometimes I'll just be running discord, web browsers, occasional light video, and sometimes I might be streaming 4k several hours a day.

    My current cell provider is T-Mobile, so if I could go with one of their plans that might be alright.  I do see what looks like a hotspot plan from Verizon with 150GB/month for $100/month, as well as 100GB for $60 or 50GB for $40.  AT&T looks like they have 100GB for $90/mo or 50GB for $55/mo, but all I see from T-Mobile is 30GB for $10/mo, or less.  (There's a tablet plan with 20GB for $35/mo, but besides not being nearly enough, idk if that's the TYPE of plan I need.)  Another option would be upgrading my phone plan from a 50GB/month prepaid unlimited (but I think without hotspot) plan to the $90/month Go5G Plus plan, but it only has 50GB/month hotspot, and it also has other things I don't need like netflix, and Apple TV, although the AAA membership would be nice, I already have that standalone.  (It still won't allow me to do daily full backups (full backup to me meaning a bit-for-bit clone of everything on the physical media) and hourly / realtime incremental backups to Backblaze or similar, though.)

     

    3 hours ago, da na said:

    Would be much cheaper to replace the Clevo's battery and install SSDs if it doesn't already have them. A 6700K shouldn't be "slow".

    I've already done that once, and i have four SSDs in it already.  The current battery has gotten to the point where it dies as I'm getting to the Windows login screen, if I power it on unplugged after it's been plugged in.  (It also sometimes takes upwards of 30-45 seconds to POST.)

     

    3 hours ago, jaslion said:

    The gpd win isnt super strong. It being in a pocket isnt a ideal case and it would be much better off in a backpack as it is a thin and light device really.

     

    For 4g data modems you can easily try it with a sim 4g/lte usb stick. If it triggers usage then in the win it will too

    Yeah, but backpacks currently aren't allowed at some conventions I've recently gone to and sometime want to go to again (and when they were allowed in previous years and I had one, I found it was pretty awkward to carry around).

     

    3 hours ago, BahnStormer said:

    If it wasn't for the fact that the laptop seems to be too big and bulky for you, I would have said that a light refresh would be better.

     

    I was in a similar position to you as I wanted to keep one of my laptops relevant for light usage, except it was an i7-3520M (Lenovo X200) - I put a SSD, 16Gb RAM and a new battery and it still runs perfectly! That said it's a very reasonably slim and light laptop that had my desired form factor already.

    Yeah, idk about a light refresh though 😄 I've already upgraded this laptop a few times along the way -- went i3-6100 to i7-6700K, 8GB to 40GB to 64GB RAM, started with a 2TB 5400rpm Samsung/Seagate Spinpoint M9T HDD and ended up with a total of 12TB SSDs (in 4 & 2 TB 2.5" SATA & M.2 NVME).

    I'd really like enough CPU to eventually run like 20+ VMs at once (for now I could get away with 5 or 6 or 8), and enough RAM to not have to use pagefile all the time, like this,

    Task_Manager_370GB_Committed_RAM_Maxed_-_2020-11-11_0243.thumb.jpg.5c45d522a96467fed8bee1f3f1b8226a.jpg
    But that doesn't exist, outside of systems that support ECC RDIMMs. 😂

     

    2 hours ago, Agall said:

    6700K just doesn't hold up in 2024, even to a lower power CPU. 

     

    If you get one of those GPD WM2, consider looking into occulink. I haven't tested it myself, but it seems to be a great alternative eGPU setup to thunderbolt. It should have far better latency characteristics to thunderbolt, which last I tested, had horrible overhead in the realm of 50ms. 

     

    You could get that WM2 and any dGPU with a relatively inexpensive DIY occulink enclosure. Really depends on how much you're willing to spend on the dGPU.

    I don't really need a portable powerful GPU - I'm not as much into gaming as I used to be, and most I play are older (mid 2000s or older) or casual games that run just fine on my old desktop's Intel Haswell iGPU.  I believe the 780M in the 7840U is about 10X stronger than that. 🙂  (Even a few older games I play could run "okay" on my dad's old Core 2 Duo laptop's iGPU.)

     

    2 hours ago, 8tg said:

    Yeah but it’s not like it’s going to stop doing what it always did.

    A 6700k and GTX 970m will do 1080p gaming of its era and newer no problem.

    And general use is not even a concern with hardware like that.

    It’s not reasonable to expect a system like that to play the current games in 1080p amazingly, but for anything else? Should be perfectly fine.

    Yeah 🙂 I don't game much these days, so the iGPU would be just fine.

    2 hours ago, Agall said:

    I'm well aware that it'll function to a standard that some might feel is acceptable, but ignorance is bliss.

     

    6700k in a laptop is likely even worse than a desktop 4790k, those two CPUs not being far apart in performance and a desktop 4790k easily overclocking to 4.6GHz. Just because it can reach acceptable framerates, doesn't mean its a smooth or acceptable experience overall.

     

     

    Interesting thing, I got generally comparable performance when OC'ing both CPUs, if I remember, or within a few % of each other.  I think the 6700K was slightly ahead, as I could manage to get I *think* close to 1000 in Cinebench R15, and touched 200 in single-core, but couldn't quite get that with the 4790K.  I think I could reach 4.7 GHz on the 4790K with a 212 Evo, or 4.8 if I pushed the voltage to 1.35V.  On the 6700K in the laptop, I could get up to about 4.6 GHz or so, maybe 4.7 if I very carefully finessed the balance between voltage, temperatures (including ambient), etc.

    I found that it was much better for me to undervolt the 6700K than overclock it, though - I've been running about -150mV offset, and the CPU power generally doesn't exceed 65-70W under load, as long as it's not Prime95 Small FFT.

     

     

    1 hour ago, 8tg said:

    I am currently posting to this thread from a 2ghz Pentium M, on a thinkpad from 2005, running windows XP

      Reveal hidden contents

    untitled.thumb.PNG.a667f4dfc842c70415ffa18a195fbed0.PNG

    I think you may be vastly overestimating the type of hardware you need for anything other than games.

    It is a desktop 6700k in that clevo, thats the point of that system, a laptop with socket 1151 in it. It performs better than a 4790k without question.

    Not that it matters much because anything in the realm of quadcore hell that intel put out for years is all still equally usable for again, anything other than modern games for the most part.

    A 6700k is going to have zero issues with video streaming, anything you can do in a web browser, most productivity software, office suites, media encoding or modifying tags, whatever the use case may be.

    And its still a high end gaming laptop from 2015, so its still going to be playing games like GTA V, Rainbow Six Siege, The Witcher 3, RotTR, Fallout 4, etc the list goes on.

     

    I think you may be a little bit confused by the jump of a 4790k to a 7950x3D "oh how did i ever live with this" mentality 

    Yes you're right, it's a socket 1151 desktop 6700K.  I remember the primary reason I got it at the time was not so much because of the desktop hardware and it being a gaming laptop, but it was one of the only / few laptops I could find at the time that supported installing two 2.5" hard drives, which I anticipated needing at the time due to doing a lot of 4K video and SSDs still being pretty expensive then.
    As long as I'm not doing too much, it does fine for video streaming - in fact I used it in December 2020 to stream to Twitch while simultaneously encoding locally in 4K for upload to youtube, and I don't think I had any dropped frames or blotchy quality.  I was careful to not have much else running though.  Normal use for me, though, involves a lot of multitasking (and I've seen it take a few MINUTES to alt+tab from one task to another sometimes). 🙂  And it played GTA V, Witcher 3, Rise of the Tomb Raider, Ark: Survival Evolved, etc just fine.

    I actually jumped on my desktop from the 4790K to the Ryzen 9 5950X (with 128GB RAM, and I could do some of the at-home heavy lifting on that), but that wasn't as big of a jump as in past memory.  I came to the 4790K from my dad's Core 2 Duo T7250 (which was an interim for a few years after the motherboard died in which was my Athlon 64 X2 4000+, also the 4790K was 2.2x faster in single-core than the T7250 was in multicore, and about 10X faster in multicore.)  Also in my childhood / teens, my dad upgraded from an Intel 286-10 to an AMD 486 DX4-120 after about 6 years 9 months, for probably about 1/3 the price and about 75-80X faster if my estimations are anywhere close to the ballpark.  (I'd like to see THAT level of a jump today.)  In between the 486 DX4-120 and my Athlon 64 and his Core 2 Duo, he had a Pentium 166 MMX, and a Socket A Athlon 1.4 GHz, and his current laptop has an i7-8550U.

     

     

     

    Anyway, one thing I'd use the Win Max 2 for would be when I'm at conventions like TwitchCon (although I'm thinking of skipping this year for reasons outside the scope of this post), and keeping up with the discord servers / chats for the channels I follow, and I'd need to be able to have multiple discord accounts open simultaneously without having to log out and back in.  (Also if I could tame my notifications to only ping me when someone directly pings ME and not including everyone and here in my pings, unless it's by the streamer themselves announcing when they're going live or where / when a meetup is, then I could turn notifs back on.)
    Also I'll be using it for general use when I'm away from the desktop, and oh btw, for several months I might not have my desktop PC with me, as I'll be going to another state to do an internship at a piano shop, and I want to pack light, not take much extra stuff with me.  (I'd get the rest of my stuff once I settle into a place for a longer period of time.)

    Also I might want to stream piano music with it as well, and my current laptop is a bit bulky to put where I want it on my acoustic Baldwin upright piano, as you can see in the picture in the spoiler.  (Also I think it'd be a bit big to rest on my Roland FP-60X if I use that when I don't have access to the Baldwin, but the WM2 might be fine.)

    Spoiler

     

     

    Combo_Pics_-_Piano_Overhead__Side_View_-_6_overhead_options_-_2023-12-30_2236.thumb.jpg.916323a6a0b80105ea55c9387ca1e681.jpg

     

    There's several shots there cause I was trying out different camera angles, but I think I'd be going with B or C or something between those when I stream with the acoustic piano.  You can see the laptop overhangs the piano action & strings quite a bit, I anticipate the Win Max 2 would be quite a bit smaller and not overhang nearly as much.  And if it would open up to 180° I could even put it on the music shelf probably.

     

     

    Here's the Clevo sitting on the Roland.  (Ignore the wood stand it's sitting on, I would be using an X style keyboard stand, not the wood nightstand thing.)

     

    PXL_20240228_181209957.thumb.jpg.c620fe65f172273c8bf9303fa2f5060b.jpg

     

     

     

    I could get into a bit more 🙂  but it's probably a bit much to expect for this laptop 😄 (For example, being able to instantly re-open / switch to literally ANYTHING I've EVER opened / accessed previously, or encoding uncompressed / lossless 4K faster than real time (my 4790K in one test took 4 days to transcode a 4 minute video to 4K H.265, encoding a dozen or more 1080p 4-8mbps videos in VMs, which themselves are running nested inside another VM, and so on.)

     

     

     

     

     

    57 minutes ago, Agall said:

    I don't underestimate performance outside of games. I actually have a lot of recent experience min-maxing older hardware for various purposes and roles with the +100 systems I manage, most of which being older hardware.

     

    One of many examples:

    image.thumb.png.70e775ae23036143c08591d243009457.png

     

    I generally don't get rid of hardware unless its non-functioning, so there's a hierarchy of performance requirements that'll trickle down hardware as things are upgraded.

     

    My family generally does the same thing - keeping things until they die or no longer do what we want.  My dad in the past used to fix things (like appliances and tools) when they'd break even when they were well beyond their service life, although he's getting up in years now and has the beginnings of Alzheimer's so I don't expect him to do much more of that.  My brother recently told me he was upgrading his system from an i7-4770K and GTX 1080 Ti to an i7-14700K and RTX 4070 (or Super or Ti, I don't remember which.)

    I wish I had a place to keep older hardware around and experiment with it 🙂 (A couple things I'd like to test would be multitasking capability on an older system vs a modern phone - not how fast it is, but whether you can do certain things at all, and also testing the total time to write / read an entire 20MB or 40MB MFM or IDE HDD, vs a modern 18TB HDD or 4TB SSD, and if I kept thinking about it I could keep going.)

     

  3. Spillover from edited title: It's closest I find to my need, in budget.

     

     Hi ...

     

    I'm looking at replacing a Clevo P750DM-G laptop (15.6" 1080p, 6700K, 64GB, 12TB, 970M 6GB) with a GPD Win Max 2 (7/8840U, 64GB, 2/4TB).  The Clevo's battery dies in a few minutes, it's unwieldy to carry around, and pretty slow. Also I want to be able to have internet when away from WiFi (& not limited to 50-100GB/mo hotspot allotment), desktop apps, virtualization I can't do on my Pixel 6a and other things. (Gaming isn't important, I might play older/casual titles sometimes though.)

     

    I'm thinking of ordering the WM2 (when in stock, currently on backorder) from GPDstore.net or Droix Global, should I?  I'd be keeping it until at least early-mid 2030s. (What I really need doesn't yet exist, and when it does my needs may be more, but that WM2 is the closest compromise I find.)

     

    Okay this lacks detail (want whole post to fit on my phone screen, otherwise my posts tend to be WAY too long, wish I could fit entire post just in title), so I put the rest in spoilers below.

    Spoiler

    Previous title: [Laptops] Want to replace 8 year old Clevo desktop replacement laptop with something much smaller, considering GPD Win Mini or Max 2 (7840U+64GB+2TB)

     

    Okay so I've had this topic sitting in test posts for about 2½ months now, thinking about things, researching a bit more ... and I need to figure out what to do here.  I'll have a very condensed post here, with a LOT more details in spoilers at the end.

     

    Anyway, I'm wanting to replace my Clevo P750DM-G laptop (i7-6700K, 64GB RAM (have used as much as 308GB pagefile on top of that), 12TB in 4 SSDs, GTX 970M 6GB, 1080p 15.6", battery life in minutes) with something a lot easier to carry around with me.

     

    I'm looking at the GPD Win Max 2 (7840U, 64GB RAM, 2TB SSD), and I hear rumblings about an 8840U coming soon, and saw a vendor mentioning a 4TB SSD but no option to buy it.  I also considered the Win Mini, but I think the keyboard would be a bit small.  (I guess I'll just have to spend the $50-60/pair on the Carhartt cargo pants (with a big enough pocket for the WM2) I saw at a local sporting goods store.)

     

    There's also a 4G LTE addon available, but I saw a lot of complaints about it.  I'd like to be able to use the internet when I'm away from WiFi without having a 50GB hotspot limit, and having full desktop interface and multitasking / virtualization you can do on a laptop and can't do on a phone.

     

    I may want to stream from it in 4K with a few cameras and microphones plugged in. (Mostly I'd be stationary / plugged in, streaming playing an acoustic piano (like my Baldwin uprights), but could envision "roaming around" streaming situations and/or using my digital piano when I don't have access to an acoustic.)  I do have a Sabrent 7+3 port powered USB hub.

     

    Also I'd like a way to bring my existing SSDs with me (maybe a USB enclosure) and a battery bank to be sure I have all day plus battery life.  Also I've been generally seeing good reviews on both the Win Max 2, and on Droix, so I think I'd have some confidence there.

     

    I've been considering waiting until Q3 2025 to get one (hoping that something would come out in the size range of the GPD Win Max 2 or Mini with at least 40-48+ CPU threads, 384-512+GB RAM, 8-12+TB SSD for <$2.2K), but I'm getting tired of my current laptop's limits. I'm planning to not replace this until probably at least the early 2030s, and would be upset if the configuration I really want came out within a couple years.

     

    I'm looking at buying from GPDstore.net or Droix Global, as I've heard good things about them and they have a 2 year warranty.  Should I order one as soon as the variant I want is in stock?

     

    Next spoiler is from a previous (2½ months ago) short-but-not-short-enough draft:

    Spoiler

    I'm looking at replacing my 8 year old laptop hopefully fairly soon.  It's just way too big, way too little battery life, and while it was fairly high end when I originally got it, I have long since far exceeded its capabilities.

     

     

    I adapted some combinations of questions from various forums that had "what laptop should I buy? fill out this form" sections, and will put my answers inside a spoiler a bit farther down, since that section is pretty long. 🙂  I'll post a few basic things here first...

     

    My current laptop is a Clevo P750DM-G, same as the Sager NP9753, Eurocom Sky X4, Origin EON15-X, configured with an i7-6700K, 64GB DDR4-2133 (4x16GB), total of 12TB of SSDs (2TB & 4TB each M.2 NVMe & 2.5" SATA), GTX 970M 6GB, 1080p 60Hz display, 230W power brick, etc.  I've already replaced the battery once, and I recently tried powering it on with just battery and it died as it was getting to the Windows login screen.

    I'll be doing a fair bit of multitasking, running virtual machines (with discord running in each, or possibly 1080p video encodes), among other things, and I'll want to be able to carry it with me.  

    I realize that I probably won't find "the perfect" laptop for my needs.  (For example, I've seen my committed usage reach 370+ GB a couple times a few years ago, and I don't know of any laptop with enough RAM so that I wouldn't need pagefile at all.)

     

    That said, I'm particularly eyeing the GPD Win Mini, specifically the 7840U + 64GB RAM + 2TB SSD variant, probably without the grips, as I want something that will fit in my pants pockets  I currently wear Wrangler relaxed flex 38x30 jeans or cargo pants, but I wonder if there might be some other pants with slightly bigger pockets that might fit the Win Max 2 in one pocket and a DSLR camera (or maybe a Panasonic LX10 if I also get one sometime, idk yet but that's off topic for this post, my Panasonic FZ1000 doesn't fit) in the other.  As I said, I'd also consider the WIn Max 2, main thing I want is portability, be able to carry it with me without having to wear a case all the time, etc.

     

    My budget will allow for those GPD devices, and if I could find a better config, for example more RAM, more CPU cores and threads, etc, in the same physical size, I might be willing to consider going as high as what I paid for my current laptop's configuration (about $2200 or so, as upgraded).

     

    I might be fairly flexible on when I buy - anytime between later this month and Q4 2025, but leaning toward no later than Q1 or early Q2 2024.  (I would prefer to order something like the GPD Win Mini when it's readily available, and not have to wait weeks or months for it to ship after ordering.)

    I'm located in southern California, a bit east of San Diego (near the edge before it starts going from suburban to rural), about an hour and a half or so without traffic from the Tustin Micro Center, if that would influence where I buy from.  (I'd prefer to not do overseas shipping, like Ali Express.  A Reddit post I saw mentioned Droix and Indiegogo, or are there other options for GPD or similar devices?)

     

    Should I consider going with one of those GPD devices, or is there something else I should look at instead? 

     

    The Win 4 is kind-of the wrong form factor for me, and I need a physical keyboard.  Also having internet / cell data on the go (that's not limited by some hot spot plan) would be very nice.  (I'm currently with T-Mobile on my Pixel 6a phone.)

     

    More details / form mentioned above in the 3rd spoiler:

     

    Spoiler

     

     

    1. What is your budget?

    I’m thinking around $1000-1300 or so (price of top variant of GPD Win Mini / Max 2), but would be willing to consider up to about $2200 (what I paid for my current laptop config including upgrades), or would prefer as low as $300-550 (prices that netbooks were in the mid 2000s or smartphones in the early 2010s, I think) but don’t think I’ll find what I’m looking for in that range.


    2. What (screen) size laptop do you prefer?

    Netbook / handheld PC size, like around 7” screen but might consider 10” screen too.


    3. What country do you live in / would be buying the laptop?

    USA.  I’m about an hour and a half (or more with traffic) from the Tustin, CA Micro Center.


    4. Any brands you prefer or don’t like?

    No specific preferences now.  I had some ideas several years ago but things change and those preferences are likely obsolete now.  (If prompted, I could possibly answer some questions as to what I’m looking for in whether to buy from a particular brand.)


    5. Would you consider a refurbished laptop?

    No, I’d prefer new with a full warranty.  (And I don’t think what I”m looking for exists in a laptop that’s old enough to be refurbished anyway.)


    6. What are some primary tasks you’ll be doing? (besides or in addition to games)

    Oh boy, where do I start, or how do I condense it.  Basically everything that I’ve done with my current laptop, and then some.  I do a ton of multitasking, might have several (I anticipate upwards of 20 or 30 or maybe more) virtual machines running.  Each of them might have a discord app plus a few office apps or browser tabs open, or, some live video playing, while simultaneously encoding 1080p 60fps 6-8 mbps H.264 video.  

    I could consider doing some of the multi video encodes on my existing desktop, but the way I want to do it doesn’t work at all.  (It has a Ryzen 5950X, 128GB DDR4-3600, GTX 1060 3GB, a 1TB NVMe boot SSD and several 8-18TB hard drives.)  I want to keep each audio/video source isolated for the video encodes, so was thinking of doing them in separate VMs since I don’t otherwise know how to keep different browser sources separated.  And, I’d like to be able to have a one-button kill-all, without killing everything else, so I was thinking of running those VMs nested inside another VM, which I could then kill if I wanted to without affecting everything else.  Problem is, just PLAYING video inside a nested VM in my desktop is like a few seconds per frame or something like that.

     

    7. Will you be taking the laptop with you or leaving it on your desk?

    I’ll be carrying it with me pretty much all the time, so it needs to be portable, that’s why I’m looking for a small one.  I want to be able to carry it hands free without having to carry a case, whether it be a sling type case or a backpack.  I currently wear Wrangler 38x30 relaxed flex pants, either the regular jeans / denim type, or cargo pants, so I’d want it to fit in one of the front pockets of those.  (I’d also be open to considering other pants with larger pockets if I could find them, but I won’t be putting it in a back pocket.)

     

    8. Will you be playing games with the laptop? If so, what games or types of games, resolution, settings, fps is desired?

    Gaming isn’t very important for this, so an iGPU would probably be fine.  If I do play games, it would mostly be older ones, like early 2000s and older, at lower resolutions and settings like 720p or 900p and 30 or 60 fps, as long as it’s locked at that fps and not jumping all over the place.  (A few example games include Team Fortress Classic, Total Annihilation, Commander Keen, Castle of the Winds, Sopwith 2, Alleycat, and others from that general era, mostly retro games.)


    9. How much battery life do you need?

    I’d like it to last all day if possible, with charge to spare. I mean, from very early in the morning before early shift workers (like managers at restaurants that serve breakfast) are rolling out of bed, until after bartenders have gotten home and settled into bed after bars close.  I’d be willing to consider supplementing a built-in battery with an external battery pack, like the same concept as the power banks I have for my phone.

     

    10. Would you prefer to see the notebook first, or be willing to buy it online without handling it first?

    I would prefer to see and try it first, but would be willing to buy one that’s not available locally.  (It would help if it has a good return policy that basically means if something doesn’t work out, I’d only be out time, not money, if I get one then return it.)


    11. What operating system do you prefer?

    I’d prefer WIndows 10, and would also be fine with Linux.  I dont’ really like WIndows 11 or any OS for PC that requires a cloud account, and Mac or Chrome OS wouldn’t work for me.

     

    12. What ports do you need? (for example USB, headphone, display, etc)

    I’d like at least a few USB ports (I do have a 7+3 port hub too), and a 3.5mm jack for sure.  As for display, those aren’t as important but if it does have something I’d want HDMI or DisplayPort.


    13. What screen resolution do you prefer?

    I’d like a minimum of 1920x1080.  I’d also consider 2560x1440, and might not reject 3840x2160, but, with the size laptop I’m looking for, 4K might be a little too high resolution.  I’ve been able to read text that’s like 0.5 to 0.8 mm tall, or see an individual pixel on a 538 ppi phone screen, but, I’m 42 and my eyes aren’t expected to get better as I age, so those days are probably numbered.


    14. Do you prefer a glossy or a matte screen?

    I’d prefer a matte, non-reflective screen.  I might be using the laptop outdoors a lot, and don’t want the direct sun to be glaring in my eyes off the screen.


    15. Is looks or style important?

    No, except I don’t want fancy RGB or gamer-like styles.


    16. How much storage space do you need?

    I already have 12 TB of SSDs in my current laptop, which I would like to be able to take with me and use with the new one.  (There’s two 2TB and 4TB SSDs, one each M.2 NVMe and 2.5” SATA.)  I don’t think any laptops the size I”m looking at exist with two 2.5” bays and two M.2-2280 slots, so I’d be fine with getting an external enclosure or a few that would let me use them.  (I’d just prefer that they be no slower with the external interface with the new laptop, than they were with the internal interface with the old laptop.)


    17. How soon do you plan to buy the laptop?

    It could be as soon as later this month (but I don’t really care about any Christmas rush), or as late as a couple weeks before TwitchCon 2025 or 2026, whichever is the next one I go to.  (I’m thinking of skipping 2024, as my experience at 2023 and 2022 weren’t the greatest, but still may want to go again sometime cause 2019, 2017 and 2016 were awesome for me, especially 2019.)  I’m leaning toward possibly Q1 2024, maybe spilling somewhat into Q2 2024.


    18. How long do you want to keep the laptop?

    I’d like to keep it longer than I’ve had my current laptop (since late 2015), so more than 8 years.  I had been planning to wait to replace my laptop until DDR6 was widely available, but that’s not happening.  Maybe this one could last me until DDR7 or DDR8 RAM is out?


    19. How long could you do without the laptop if it failed?

    It depends on where I am and what’s going on when it fails.  If it’s at home (or I’m just out on the town during a normal day), I could just use my phone or desktop PC for some things, and wait a while to have it repaired.  But, if I’m at some event (whether it’s across town, or out of town or out of state), I’d  need something working within a few hours or so, with my data, apps, settings, open tabs, etc.


    20. Would you be willing to pay extra for on-site warranty?

    I’d prefer something that’s good enough quality so I don’t have to worry about that, or something that’s easily repairable.  If I had to though, I don’t ant to spend more than about 5% the total cost of the laptop or something like that.


    21. What stores would you consider buying the laptop from?

    I’d prefer established / well known stores, like Amazon, Newegg, Micro Center, Best Buy, Adorama, B&H, and would be willing to consider others if I knew more about them, heard consistent good reports on their reputation, etc.  (For example i’ve seen antonline mentioned various places but know pretty much nothing about them, and there might be others.)

     

    22. Do you need an optical drive?

    No, I rarely use them anymore.  If needed, I have an external ASUS DVD Writer I could plug in.


    23. Do you prefer any particular form factor, for example 2-in-1?

    I’m mostly looking at standard landscape clamshell laptops, but would also be willing to consider a 2-in-1 or detachable device.  (Come on now, why is a King Missile song from 1992 coming to mind….)


    24. How / would you prioritize things like build quality, performance, battery life?

    I’d prefer a balance of all 3, and don’t want anything to suck but would prefer them be fairly good all around.  I can be El Klutz-o, so I don’t want something that readily breaks.

     

    25. Do you need certain other features, like touch screen, fingerprint reader, good keyboard / touchpad, color, webcam, speakers, etc?

    Most of those aren’t necessary, but what it does have, I want it to be good quality and reliable.  (I suppose a touch screen would be nice, and I’d prefer the touchpad have very good palm rejection, or be behind the keyboard.)  A webcam would be nice, 720p 30fps or 1080p 60fps would be good enough.  Hopefully the speakers, if it has any, don’t suck too much.  For color, black is preferred but I’d maybe consider other dark colors like blue, green or a few others.  

    I’m fine with a smaller than normal keyboard, would like to be able to reach all the way across it with my four fingers not including the thumb.  I can reach Win+L with the 2nd and 5th finger on the same hand with some stretch, or almost L-Shift+Backspace with thumb + 5th finger on my desktop’s Logitech K270 (but I mash a few keys in between on that one).  If I could reach R-Ctrl+Esc or L-Ctrl+F12 with the 4 finger span, that might be nice, as long as i’m not mashing keys in between.  (Back in the late 1990s to early / mid 2000s, I had a TI-92 Plus graphing calculator, and could type well enough on that.  Actually still have it but don’t use it hardly at all anymore.)

    Also a numpad would be nice, and I’d be fine with an external one since laptops as small as what I’m looking at don’t have one built in.


    26. What are some other specs you’re looking at, for example CPU, RAM, or other specs?

    I’d like at least a Ryzen 7840U and 64GB RAM at minimum, but would prefer enough cores, threads and RAM for the extensive 20 or 30 or more virtual machine multitasking I mentioned earlier.  Also I’ve had a couple occasions with my current laptop where I blew way past its 64GB RAM, and counting the pagefile, had 370+ GB RAM committed.  If I could avoid using pagefile completely that would be really nice.
    I’ve been thinking recently, I’d like something responsive enough so that once I’ve ever opened / loaded something once, whether it was 0.08 seconds or 8 decades ago, I could ever after recall that same resource right away - faster than my display’s refresh rate.  (Now what do do about the bottleneck that is my own memory, remembering WHAT I want to re-open or alt+tab to 🤣)

     

    27. Any additional info you want to share?

    I’m honestly doubtful that anything on the market today will come all that close to meeting my needs.  I’ve been eyeing the GPD Win Mini, specifically the 7840U, 64GB RAM, 2TB SSD variant, or if it’s not too big, might consider the Win Max 2 with the same specs.  I’d like to know if there’s something better that’s either available, or coming soon (and I’d be willing to wait as late as 2025 or 2026 if there’s a huge improvement coming, for example a GPD Win Mini with a 40-48+ thread CPU, half a TB of RAM, workstation-level GPU, etc), or should I just go ahead and buy something like the current Win Mini or Max 2?  (I’d prefer to buy one when it’s actually available, looks like for now it’s a bit too early to put in an order for the Win Mini yet.)


     

     

  4. Hi all,

     

    TLDR: Having trouble accessing, from my PC, the data folder for a specific app on my Android 14 phone.  Need to transfer data from an older device (Android 7), I was able to copy that data to my PC.  Folder access does work on another Android 14 phone but not on mine, and tests on my phone (per instruction from app author) confirm the folder does exist.

     

    - - - - - - - - - - - -

     

    Please forgive the lack of formatting, as I’m posting this on a couple different forums (a PC / tech forum, and a piano forum) and don’t feel like bothering with any type of UBB or HTML code or whatever.  (Also I hope cross-posting to different forums is okay.)

     

    Anyway, I have some piano tuning software (Tunelab) that I purchased for my phone (Google Pixel 6a), and would like to import some saved data from an older phone (Moto G4 Play) that I had also used the software on a few times.

    I should note that the older phone is running Android 7, and the newer phone is running Android 14.  Somewhere in between, there was a change in how Android organizes user app data.  On the old phone, the files were in a “tunelab” subdirectory under the root folder, but on the new phone, they’re supposed to be in Android\Data\com.realtimespecialties.tunelab or something like that.

     

    I was able to get the files from the old phone and save them to my PC (Windows 10 22H2), but, when I plug the new phone into the PC via USB, that com.realtimespecialties.tunelab folder does not show up, although quite a few other folders do show up from other apps.

     

    I contacted the creator of the program and he had me test a couple things (one of which was using an internal tool to copy from a backup and overwrite a file, then check to see if it did it properly),  and that worked, telling us that the folder in question does exist on the phone.  (Also trying to manually create the folder on the phone from the PC doesn’t work either.)

     

    I also temporarily installed the app on my dad’s Pixel 8 Pro (also running Android 14), and on that one I was able to see the folder from my desktop PC.  Also I plugged my phone into my older laptop (WIndows 10 1909, update is broken, thinks not enough space to update even though it’s on a 4TB SSD), and the com.realtimespecialties.tunelab folder doesn’t show up there either.

     

    I also tried uninstalling an reinstalling the app on my Pixel 6a, and that didn’t work either.

     

    Does anyone have any ideas on how I can get the data files from the older phone imported to the newer one?  I really don’t want to go back to using the old phone for that software, also my (paid) license is tied to the new phone anyway (for now, that is, it is transferable if I get a new phone in the future but that’s not planned until after support / updates end for the Pixel 6a, or later).

    Also the creator of the app does have an option for dropbox integration, but I don’t have any dropbox account set up.

  5. On 12/21/2023 at 12:35 AM, whispous said:

    It's not going to work anywhere near as completely as you're hoping Unfortunately that ship sailed many years ago at this stage.

     

    Apps are not going to transfer, or those that do run a significant risk of not working properly.

     

    Transfer the photos manually.

    Same with videos, downloads, documents.

     

    It's simply not realistic.

     

    Accounts will not magically transfer even between modern phones without at least requiring further security info (usually the password) from you.

    Yeah, I figure some stuff isn't going to transfer.  Hopefully we can transfer the important things, though.

     

    I went on Transfer data from an Android phone to a Pixel - Pixel Phone Help (google.com) and went over the list of data to transfer with my mom, to try to figure out what's important.  A lot of the things on there, she had really no clue what they were, so I'd presume they're unimportant.

     

    There are a few things she definitely wants to keep, though:

    • Music, photos and videos
    • Contacts stored on the phone or SIM card (idk how much she uses the google account on her phone)
    • Text messages (SMS and MMS) and their multimedia
    • Call history

    Among other things...

    • Ringtones would be nice (if I could figure out how to do it manually, it's in the "doesn't automatically copy" section of the above link),
    • W-Fi credentials would be nice as well
    • she doesn't use a lot of custom apps, although she does use weather but I think that's already included, or something like that.
    • There might be a few phone settings we may want to duplicate as well, but idk what, probably not a lot though.  (I did at some point in the past enable developer options on her phone.)
    • Might be nice to transfer non-Google accounts, if possible, but idk what all she uses.  (She does have Yahoo mail and Amazon Prime, but I'm not sure that she uses any special apps on her phone, just the browser.  Also afaik she doesn't really use the built-in password manager, instead keeping her login info written in a paper-and-ink book.)

    Pretty much most if not all the other stuff doesn't really matter afaik.

     

     

    What I'm thinking of doing at this point is ...

    • From her new phone, skip the automatic data transfer, then log into the same account that she uses on her old phone.  (btw I'd have to check her phone, but when I was looking up the pixel 8 transfer info on her PC to discuss with her, there was a banner saying that her (yahoo) email address had no recovery email associated with it.)
    • Use a USB cable to manually transfer local data like photos, documents (if she has any, but doubtful), music, videos.
    • Maybe use the option to restore from cloud backup?  (I checked the settings on her phone earlier and it is turned on, but idk what all is backed up.  (Her phone has 8GB total storage capacity, Google Drive afaik has 15GB, so it could theoretically hold a full "dd if, of" type image of the phone, not that it would work that well moving to such a vastly newer phone though.)

     

    Her phone does have an SD card, I think most of the pictures from the camera are saved to that, afaik.


    There's a few things I'm still a bit concerned about if we'd be able to transfer them or not, like the call history, text messages, contacts that aren't in her Google account, ringtones, etc.

     

    I went into the accounts section of her phone settings, and there's a couple gmail accounts in there under Google, and with a logo that's an envelope with a red-background @ symbol on the flap.  Then one that looks like a Gmail logo, labed as personal (IMAP) is linked to the yahoo account I mentioned earlier.



    I just want it to be as seamless as possible for her to get used to the new phone.  We bought it around Black Friday from Best Buy, and have I think until January 13 to return it, at least that's what the website said when we ordered it, unless it was a typo and they meant January 31 like the other places like Amazon or Google Store.  (It was out of stock everywhere else I think, at the time, in the color and capacity we wanted - my parents both got the 256GB version, mom got the blue one and dad got the black one.)

     

    She'll be 80 the beginning of next month 🙂 and I hope that two things happen:

    • support (at least bug fixes and security patches) lasts at least as long as she's still around (that's why I picked a Pixel 8 Pro cause of its 7 year support life, instead of some other phones, also she's approaching the possibility of outliving the 82 years that one of the oldest relatives on her side of the family lived to in recent memory), and
    • SHE lasts long enough so that the phone's support lifecycle (if it was extended, however unlikely) would be comparable to how long the Linux kernel supported the 386 or 486 😄 

     

    At her age, and with her being less technologically advanced, it would probably be hard to get her another new phone several years from now.  Even when she was somewhat younger, big technological changes were not an easy adjustment for her, although she has gotten used to them after a while, in the past at least.  (She did relatively okay jumping straight from Windows XP on her previous laptop to Windows 10 on her current one almost 6 years ago.)

  6. Hey, I'm having issues with the YouTube browser on edge - whenever I open a video or go to the home page, it freezes my entire browser for several minutes.

     

    Yes, I may have a couple thousand tabs open, but I don't have this problem with 2x as many tabs in Chrome or 5x as many in FireFox.  Also I don't have the issue with the YouTube studio page itself (but opening a video from there does cause it), or in InPrivatr.  (And I'm pretty sure it's not UBlock Origin, cause that's allowed in InPrivate windows.)

     

    Is there some way (if not now, in the future) I could have something running (debug type) that could see what specific scripts are hanging up, and where and why, so I can terminate them or whatever is necessary?

     

    (Also if something is "not responding" for other reasons I'd like to be told why, for example if it's having to fetch things from pagefile, although I doubt that in this particular case, I'm only using 55.1/128GB RAM, with 113/164GB committed.)

     

    I'd like to figure out what's going on with it, or other scripts that make sites stop responding.

     

    Also it's really annoying to be always asked if I'm a human every couple minutes or more frequently.  I don't even consider myself that much of a power user - my Ryzen 5950X CPU is only sitting at 5% utilization right now, RAM at 45%, all my storage at 0%, and network mostly 0kbps at the moment except periodic 8-32kbps blips.Il

     

    It's slowing me way down, quite frustrating. I thought web servers were supposed to be able to serve sites even to people with, high-end PCs, which mine is definitely not. (Also the browser finally just responded after I came into the forum and typed all that so far on my phone, and I have autocorrect off (too many NSFW horror stories) and had to correct a lot of mistakes.)  My 💩🥔💻🖥️ only has one CPU (a basic consumer socket at that) and lacks registered ECC RAM, and the network and internet connection is slower than the sequential burst read speed on my SSD.

     

    Do websites expect me to be using a low end PC from like 1995, or a phone from like 2006?  (I even get "are you human?" prompts on PCPartPicker on my Pixel 6a, so I can't blame it on sites expecting me to use a smartphone, which afaik is less capable of multitasking than a PC.)

  7. On 12/15/2023 at 3:23 PM, whispous said:

    Can you list what exactly NEEDS to be transferred? I would immediately give up on any hopes of transferring apps with their settings given it's such an ancient source phone.

     

    Contacts can be transferred over bluetooth with a little patience, Photos can be pulled off onto a computer and then piped onto the new phone manually.

    Sorry for the delay, have a lot going on.

    Well it would be nice to be able to transfer the apps / data for ones that are supported on the new device.  (I'm not sure what all she uses though.)
    Of course, I'm sure she'd want her media (music, photos, videos) to be transferred, 

    as well as any Google or other accounts she's signed into.

    Also she can't go without her contacts or her text / SMS/MMS messages, and the mutlimedia in those.

    Also I would prefer to not have to re-enter wi-fi credentials either.

    (BTW I'm reading off the list at Transfer data from an Android phone to a Pixel - Pixel Phone Help (google.com) )

    And of course phone settings, although there might be a few things I'd change later.

    Wallpaper would be nice to have.

    Call history is also a must-have.

    Alarms, idk if she uses those, but probably.

    Passwords from Google Password Manager -- she typically doesn't use those, writes them in a paper-and-ink book she keeps.

    She doesn't use spotify or fitbit, but she does have amazon prime and other accounts.

     

    Hopefully signing into the google account on the new phone would bring some of that up.  Her old phone is set to backup, although idk if everything is backed up or not.

     

    Then of course we'll want to transfer any non-Google accounts and their data.  She doesn't use LINE or WhatsApp as far as I know.

     

    Then from the "what won't copy during setup" ...
    I'll want to make sure downloads get transfered.

    I don't think her phone supports locked folders, and i doubt she'd use it anyway, also I doubt she has any non-Play-store apps.

    I will want to transfer data from apps that don't use Android backup, if applicable.

    Also other accounts and their data, we will want that as well.  Not sure what if anything she has synced to other services.

    Ringtones might be nice, but idk how much if any customization she's done, likewise with "certain phone settings".

     

     

     

    Anyway I briefly tried the auto transfer again a bit earlier this afternoon, cause I thought maybe I had forgotten an important step, like turning on bluetooh discoverability, or wifi or something on the source phone, but, that didn't help.

    I'm thinking ... if I can't do direct transfer from my mom's phone to the pixel, maybe I could...

    Sign into her Google account (same one as on the old phone) with the new phone

    Let it sync whatever data  it has

    Plug the old phone into the new one via USB cable,

    use standard files utility or whatever to browse the files on the old phone and bring them over to the new one.

     



    Something I don't understand though ...

    A few years ago when my dad got his Pixel 4a, I was able to automatically do the transfer from his Galaxy Core Prime to the 4a, and pretty much everything worked mostly without a hitch (except having to restart the transfer process a couple times cause of user error on my part, and a couple apps he used not porting over, which is why he STILL uses the old phone for some things occasionally).

     

    But, transferring from my mom's Galaxy Core Prime to her Pixel 8, I can't get anything to work, at least not like my dad's phones did a few years ago.  Both source phones are just as old, I thought it should work.

     

     

    I was looking at Can't transfer data to a new Pixel phone - Pixel Phone Help (google.com) , and it says it might be able to transfer from source phones as old as Android 5, which is what my mom's and dad's Galaxy Core Primes have.  (As I said, transfer worked from my dad's GCP to his 4a, but not from my mom's GCP to her 8 Pro.)

     


    One thing I maybe thought of, was doing some kind of intermediate transfer, as in, transfer from the Galaxy Core Prime to something slightly newer, then from that phone to the Pixel 8 Pro.

    But, I don't really have a suitable phone that would work as an intermediary.

    My Pixel 6a is my daily driver, and I don't want to reset that one.
    I no longer have my Pixel 3a, traded it in when I got the 6a.
    My Moto G4 Play was a previous daily driver, still has things on it that I don't want to remove.  And it's Android 7, which might still be a bit much of a gap between that and the Pixel 8 Pro.

    My LG G4 essentially is close to factory condition except for signing into my Google account.  (I had sent it in for repair with the bootloop issue, but that was after I had another phone, and when I got it  back I still kept using the other phone.)  But, it runs Android 6, so probably too old.

     

    Maybe that's a reason to go to a T-Mobile store, or Best Buy ... or would they not be able to help with that?

    Too bad, after doing the transfer from my dad's Pixel 4a to his 8 Pro (although I wanted to do my mom's phone first), there's no way I could ...

    Plug dad's 4a into a PC, boot up Linux

    "dd if=pixel_4a of=backup_file_on_SSD"
    factory reset the 4a

    transfer from mom's Galaxy Core Prime to the 4a

    transfer from the 4a to mom's Pixel 8 Pro

    plug the 4a back into the PC

    "dd if=backup_file_on_SSD of=pixel_ra"

    and have them be ready to go on their new phones, with the 4a still available for my dad to use as he wishes.

     

     

    Also my dad uses wired headphones quite a bit, and while I was thinking of having him get a pair of pixel buds (either A series or Pro), I'm thinking, with his Alzheimers, there's probably a non-zero chance of him losing them.  So, I'm thinking of getting an adapter that hopefully would allow simultaneous connection to 3.5mm wired earphones and usb-c charger / data transfer.  Anything I need to look out for on those?  I remember some site suggesting stick with known brands, like Anker, Belkin, or others, but I also vaguely remember quite a while ago some people mentioning issues with not being able to do both at the same time, but idk.

     

    Heh ... thought I'd clicked submit a few hours ago but I guess I didn't, have a ton of things going on lol.

  8. Hi all ...

     

    My mom recently bought a new phone (Pixel 8 Pro) to replace her old phone (Samsung Galaxy Core Prime), which is getting to be too slow for her to use, and has other issues as well. 

    I was just trying to set up the new phone, intending to connect the old one and transfer data with the Pixel utility, but I can't seem to get anything working right. 😞  (I was trying a couple guides, including one on Google's support page, and a reddit post and a youtube video, but nothing worked.)

     

    When I started the setup process on the Pixel 8 Pro, somewhere during that, I got a popup on my Pixel 6a about set up new device.  That's not the phone I want to set up, though, it's my mom's Galaxy Core Prime.  On that phone, I wasn't getting any kind of popup, not even when I connected it to the Pixel 8 Pro using the quick-switch adapter and a micro USB cable.


    Also, while they're both connected to the same wifi network, I can't get them to talk to each other, and the GCP doesn't have any way to scan QR codes that I'm aware of.  (The camera app just takes a picture when I try, and it doesn't seem to be compatible with the Google Lens app.)

     

    I'm aware of a portion of the setup where if you tap an image 5 times on the Pixel 8 Pro, you get the option to use a USB cable transfer instead of wireless, but, I can't even get TO that point.  (And if I try to skip past the QR code screen, it just basically continues with setup as if she was a first-time Android user, not migrating from an older device.)

     

    My mom really needs to start using the new phone soon - as I said, it's not exactly new - counting back the same number of Windows versions vs Android versions, she's on the equivalent of Windows 3.1 with her phone.  

    Spoiler

    Android 14 ~ Windows 11

    Android 13 ~ Windows 10

    Android 12 ~ Windows 8

    Android 11 ~ Windows 7

    Android 10 ~ Windows Vista

    Android 9 ~ Windows XP

    Android 8 ~ Windows ME/2000

    Android 7 ~ Windows 98

    Android 6 ~ Windows 95

    Android 5 ~ Windows 3(.1)

     

    She does have until sometime in January to return the phone to Best Buy, due to extended holiday returns, if we can't get it working or the data transferred.)  I could consider taking the two phones to T-Mobile (her carrier), and had originally thought of doing that anyway.  Turns out, though, that her old SIM card would physically fit in the new phone, just without the adapter.  (Taking them to Best Buy would also be an option, since she ordered it from there around Black Friday.

     

    When I set up my dad's Pixel 4a a few years ago, from the same model older phone (Samsung Galaxy Core Prime), I didn't have nearly the problems with that, that I'm having with my mom's phone.  (I did have to redo it once cause of something not going quite right, but I was still able to get the phones to communicate.  Also there were a couple apps that didn't transfer, and I think the open browser tabs and some other things didn't transfer either; I had that same issue when going from my Pixel 3a to my 6a, and on my PC, from my i7-6700K laptop to my Ryzen 9 5950X desktop.)

     

    We also at the same time (as my mom) got my dad a Pixel 8 Pro, to replace his 4a, although I want to make sure I get my mom's phone set up before I start on my dad's.

     

    I'm kind-of lost for what to do at this point. 😕  I really want them to be able to start using their new phones, since they're now unsupported, and my mom's phone is getting almost unusable, but ... they're getting up there in age (and dad has Alzheimer's), so if they have to re-learn anything at all or can't retain all their existing data, etc, it's a deal breaker, and we might have to just send the phones back (and the Otterbox Defenders) and have them continue using their old phones.

  9. Hi ...

     

    I will be in Las Vegas January 8-10 for an event (related to pianos), and I noticed that CES overlaps that time some.  (CES is January 9-12; I'm not going to that though.) 

     

    I was wondering if there might be any possible meetups planned with the tech community, youtubers, etc, during the time I'll be in Vegas?  (For example LTT, GN, Paul & Kyle, Salazar, Josh (formerly FractalJosh), Tech Deals, UFD Tech, Ian, der8auer, or others.)

    I'll be toward the south end of Vegas, but I could go pretty much anywhere since I'll be driving up from San Diego area.  I anticipate hopefully getting there by around 4pm or earlier on the 8th, and leaving after 3-4pm on the 10th.  There's a black tie gala happening at my event in the evening on the 9th, I'm thinking of not going to that cause i'm not too much into formal type events.   

    Part of my itinerary includes the Cirque de Soleil Show on the 8th in the evening.  (Schedule has us heading over there around  6:30pm and returning around 11pm.)  I do plan to go to that.

     

    I could maybe try to be there earlier on the 8th (although that might prove a bit more difficult), or stay a bit later on the 10th.  But, I will only be staying the two nights (8th and 9th), no extras (not 7th or 10th for example).

  10. Several years ago I was using my parents' Dell D830 laptop.  Was leaning with my elbow on it below the keyboard next to the trackpad.
    Heard this nasty screeching sound, and the computer froze up.  (I don't remember if I had to force power it off from that, or if it blue screened.)

     

    Apparently I was leaning so heavily on it that I'm thinking I somehow managed to slow or stop the spindle motor on the hard drive (it didn't have an SSD at the time).

    Luckily I didn't cause a head crash, as it rebooted fine and the data was all fine.


    Also in the early 2000s or so, my name on Planet Fortress forums was [<0FPS]FriedVideoCard ....
    We had an ATI All-In-Wonder card that my brother had originally bought in 1997.  I'd been doing a bit of experimenting with video capture from VHS and similar tapes.  One time, I was hooking it up, and there was a pop and some smoke, and we no longer had a graphics card.  Had to pop in an older low-end card, like a Trident 9685 or some other Super VGA card from the mid 1990s, so we'd have video out, but that ended my gaming for a while.

    Even with that ATI card, I don't think I ever got out of single-digit fps at 320x240, lowest settings, software mode in Half-Life 1 / Team Fortress Classic, even with my face embedded in a textureless wall on an empty server.  That, combiend with the fact that we only had dial-up internet at the time, meant I pretty much exclusively played as an engineer building sentry guns.
    Then when I've seen "Can it run Crysis?" ... I imagine that when Crysis came out, its performance on the top-end GPU configs of the day (like 3-way SLI GeForce 8800 Ultra or 4-way Crossfire Radeon HD 2900 XT) would, at best, have maybe matched what my ATI AIW got in HL/TFC. 

     

     

      

    On 12/7/2023 at 1:38 PM, bluessorrow said:

    Ditto, I accidentally wiped the drive that has ALL our family photos when using GHOST to restore the windows when I was young, and I was not able to recover any of them because I didn't know any better.

     

    It happened around 15 years ago, but I till remember that feeling of heart sink as it just happened, as that was probably the closest I had from suicidal thought..  Right now I either unplugged extra drive, or will be checking at least 3 times to ensure that I got the correct drive.

     

    That reminds me, several years ago I was wanting to back up my dad's laptop HDD (500GB) to one of my desktop HDDs (2TB).  I didn't actually have a working desktop at the time, so had to use an external enclosure hooked up to the laptop.

    Anyway, I first shrunk the partition that was already on there to make room for cloning from the 500GB drive, as I was only using maybe about 1 to 1.2 TB of space. 

    Then, I don't remember if I actually go so far as to copy the partition (I think I used GParted in Linux), but at some point, the drive ended up coming up RAW with the data inaccessible. 

    I had to shelve the drive for a few years, as I didn't have a second or third drive to clone and atttempt recovery for a while.   I knew enough to not use it at all, to increase my chances of possible recovery when I did have extra drives and a way to hook them up simultaneously, to attempt data recovery.  (Also I held out hope that I could recover it because -- there was part of the process that I forget exactly what I told it to do, except that it was supposed to affect the entire hard drive, and it only took a few seconds to do, whereas writing the entire drive would take at least a few hours or so.  Before, the data was fine, after, it was inaccessible.)

    And I'm still not sure, even 10+ years later, if I managed to get everything, some of it did come back, but some of it didn't remember any folder structure or filenames when doing the recovery.  I was using TestDisk and PhotoRec, I think.

  11. On 11/30/2022 at 7:54 AM, Sarra said:

    Of course. Cat owners willing to spend the money on their pets, cats are totally worth it.

     

    Hopefully, I can get an auto litter box when I get a cat again... When we have transporter technology, I hope I can just teleport cat poo straight to the bin. Then I'll get 6 cats.

    haha yes, teleport cat poo to the bin 😄 I'm guessing you have a cat like ours, yes, she goes in the litter box sometimes, but quite often I'll see evidence of her having gone somewhere else.  And who knows where she might have gone under some furniture or behind a pile of random stuff in the living room (which actually used to be a garage, but that was a long time ago, it was already converted before my parents moved here in 1978.)

    More times than I can count or remember, I've been sitting at my PC, looked over where her litter box is, and seen her squatting on the step literally ONE FOOT / 30 cm from the litter box, OUTSIDE the box, looking right at it! 😱

  12. Hi...

     

    Does anyone know of a good way to screen record multiple browser windows simultaneously, keeping them isolated from each other, while having the resulting video files stored in a "less public" location (like in a VM, instead of on my host OS), and be able to minimize the windows while continuing to record?  (I was going to try OBS inside VirtualBox on several VMs, then found out that VB itself has recording capability, but I doubt that'll work.)

     

     

     

    I'd like to set something up where I can screen record a bunch of browser windows simultaneously, with each recording's audio and video being isolated from each other.  I had the idea of spinning up some VMs and running OBS Studio inside them to record the screen inside the VM, but apparently OBS needs GPU acceleration which isn't supported on VirtualBox.  (And even if it was, I don't have like 30 or so GPUs to pass through.)

     

    I had been going to those browser sources on my phone and using the built-in screen recorder function, which works well enough -- but only for one at a time, and often I want to do like 10 or 20 or even 30 simultaneously, and for longer recordings than my phone supports.  (I would go in later and trim / delete unwanted portions / videos later.)

     

    Also, due to privacy and other concerns, I don't want the recorded video files to appear on my host system, just only in the VM.  (I'll move them around later as needed.)

     

    The system I'd be doing this on has a Ryzen 9 5950X, 128GB DDR4-3600, a GTX 1060 3GB, host OS (Windows 10 Pro) boots from a 1TB Silicon Power P34A80, and once I get things set up, I'd probably be putting the VMs (with the recorded videos) on one of my hard drives - most likely a 14TB 7200rpm drive. 

     

    I would have thought a single thread on a 5950X would be sufficient for encoding 1080p 30fps ~4-6 Mbps (ultrafast preset most likely) x264 video, but I guess not?  It's a 16 core, 32 thread CPU, and leaving a couple threads available for various other tasks, I was hoping I could have as many as like 30 simultaneous recordings going, or would I need to limit it to 14 or 15 and ignore the SMT threads?

    My original thought included trying nested virtualization, partly because I also want a one-button method to shut it all down at once without shutting down my main host OS.  (I was thinking, I could just shut down the "host VM" (or at least suspend to disk / save its state) if I needed to, for whatever reason, shut it all off without having to go through and individually shut each VM down.)  Then I would have had the sub-VMs each with a different source, with OBS running in each one to capture that window, or the entire VM.

     

    As for why I would be using VMs instead of just normal native software, besides the privacy issue mentioned earlier - For one thing, I'm not aware of a way to "sandbox" the audio from one browser tab in recording software.  (If I was recording in my main host OS, it would pick up the audio from everything on my PC, not just the one browser tab.)

     

    Also, I want to be able to minimize the windows or switch to other desktops while continuing to record, and the only way I can think of doing that is by doing the recording from inside a VM, and minimizing the VM itself.

     

    I'd be running some flavor of Linux in the VMs.  I've done a little experimenting with various distros the past day or two, and I might go with a light distro like Lubuntu, LXLE Linux, Q4OS or Alpine Linux or something like that.  I also was trying AntiX and Tiny Core, but I still need to learn other ways of installing software when "sudo apt-get install appname" isn't supported on a particular distro.

     

     

     

    Anyway, I was looking up why OBS was hitting 100% CPU usage on idle, and various forum posts & sites were telling me that OBS needs a hardware GPU, and doesn't really work properly in a VM.  Also a couple other apps like ShareX came up in my search, and I might consider something like that as well (except it won't run on Linux.)

     

    Another thing that came up in my search is the factor of VirtualBox itself having a built-in recording function.  Problem is, the video files would be on the host machine (I don't want them there), and I'm not sure the quality is quite what I'd like it to be.  For example if I do 1920x1080 at 30fps (I'd like to be able to do 60fps) at max quality, it maxes out at 2048 kbps, and I was looking at doing around 4 or 6 Mbps or so.

     

    Also I won't be doing this all the time, just now and then.   I do use the computer for other things as well, the recording would be primarily done when I'm not doing much else on the PC.

     

    So if anyone has any ideas that would work on the hardware I already have, I'd like to know.

  13. Hey... I'd like to figure out how to change some behavior in Chrome & Firefox on Android when I close tabs.  

     

    A video demonstrating a few examples is at 

     

     

    I'll paste text from the description here...

     

    A.  In both Firefox and Chrome, when you use back button to close a tab, if the originating tab is still open it switches to that tab.

    B.  In Firefox, if the originating tab was closed, it goes to the home / overview / new tab page, but the tab is still open in the background.

    C   In Chrome, if the originating tab was closed, it goes to the next (previous) tab in the strip.

    D.  However, if you close Chrome (or it crashes or device restarts), then tapping back button from an open tab exits from the app.

    E.  In Firefox, closing and reopening the browser doesn't change the behavior.


    F.  Basically what I want to set up is: have both browsers, regardless of whether they've been restarted, behave like Chrome does in C.


    Sorry for no timestamps (in the video), I'm posting this from my phone and there are things you just can't do on this (or are extremely inefficient) that you can do on a PC.
    (That irks me to no end, that a phone makes it hard to, or won't even let you, do things that can be easily done on a PC with less RAM, a slower CPU & GPU, and a lower resolution screen.  That's a topic for another time / post though.)

     

    Also I had to pause posting this to drive for a bit, and now I can't remember if I'm posting in the correct (programs, apps, websites) subforum, and the mobile interface doesn't show me that info from the post screen.

  14. I'm probably the only one who would like to see direct-comparison benchmarks between the 3870 (I think that's the last AMD card Linus said he had) and the 7900 XTX, including some with the same games and also with the same settings. 🙂 
    No, I don't expect the 3870 to even launch Flight Simulator or Cyberpunk at all, but I would guess the 7900 XTX would get a few tens of times more FPS at 1080p high/ultra in Crysis or CS:Source vs the 3870, for example. 

    Spoiler

    Userbenchmark and videocardbenchmark / passmark don't list the 7900 XTX yet, but UB says the RTX 4080 is 6,485% faster than the HD 3870, and VCB scores the 4080 at 34648 vs the 571 they give the 3870.  The 3870 isn't listed on UL / TimeSpy as it doesn't support DX12, and I'm not sure where's a good game benchmark repository to look for benchmarks of GPUs that are a couple decades or more apart in age; passmark has pretty much been the only place that I can do wide-range comparisons, for example the RTX 4090 vs the Rage 128 Pro, or the GeForce2 MX.  (I'd call some of those lower end benchmarks in question though, for example it says the GeForce3 Ti at score 3 matches the GeForce2 MX at 3 which I'm pretty sure was not the case... any ideas of a better site that lets me compare benchmarks of every video card that has ever existed, even going all the way back to, say, the IBM graphics adapter in the original 1981 IBM PC, or even the original Apple 1 or before that? 🙂

     

  15. Hi... so I've not been able to do any updates on this laptop since 1909, other than the periodic monthly security patches and things like that.

     

    Basically, it keeps giving me an 0x80070002 error, and if I try the Windows 10 upgrade tool from MS's website, it says "We can't tell if your PC has enough space to continue installing WIndows 10."  (Also I was just googling that error, and it was remind me that I'd like to find a way to filter out search results from sites trying to peddle their own product that targets that specific thing.  A couple examples that came up when searching were drivereasy, easeus, partitionwizard, and I've seen a lot more when searching for similar things involving updating an OS, repartitioning a drive, etc.  Maybe it's just me, but I am very wary of first-party recommendations in general, I want to see third-party reviews, among other things.)

     

    From what I can tell, this PC most definitely HAS enough space, and then some.

     

    1098148513_Screenshot(67).thumb.png.efa2bfbbf43db4f304712690a9b7e8ab.png\

     

    The laptop is a Clevo P750DM-G, with an i7-6700K, 64GB (4x16GB) DDR4-2133 RAM, GTX 970M 6GB, and four SSDs - 2TB and 4TB 2.5" SATA and 2TB and 4TB M.2 NVMe.

     

    Windows is installed on the 4TB 2.5" SATA SSD.  I wanted to migrate it to NVMe a few years ago when I got a 1TB NVMe SSD, but I couldn't figure out how to clone from SATA to NVMe without having major problems or having to reinstall, so I just stuck with SATA.

    This is the third SSD that I've run Windows from on this laptop.  Before this 4TB SSD which I just recently got this past Black Friday, I was using a 1TB WD Blue 3D 2.5" SATA SSD for a few years, and before that I was using a 250GB Crucial MX200 M.2-2260 SATA SSD.  The problem with being unable to update started around the time I got the 1TB SSD, maybe a little later, idk.

    I even moved some things off C: to free up a bit more space (even though I already had 3.6TB free), so I could get the used space down below about 160 GB, in case for some reason Windows was still thinking I was trying to update on the original 250GB SSD.  (In that case, I think having about 90GB should have been plenty...)

    Any ideas what could be going on, or something I should change to get Windows to update properly? Is there some setting I need to change somewhere, or do I need to take a look at something involving the other partitions on the SSD that I think Windows put there when I originally installed in Q1 2016? 

    Or will I just have to live with the laptop being stuck on 1909 for the next few years or so?

    I'm not about to reinstall Windows on this laptop, as everything I have set up would be way too much of a hassle to reconfigure.  Even if I tried, I still would never be able to get it exactly the way I had it set up.  And I've had that same inability to exactly clone my configuration pretty much ever since I've used PCs since the 1990s or so, which is a major factor in me trying to avoid OS reinstalls as much as possible - I pretty much ONLY do it if I'm getting entirely new hardware, like a new laptop, or a new motherboard that uses a totally different generation of RAM, CPU socket, etc.

    About a new laptop... I had thought of getting a GPD Win Max 2 a few months ago, since I'd like something a lot more compact (preferably something pocket sized, although I'd have to get cargo pants to pocket the GPD; with a full-desktop, multitasking, virtualization-capable x86/64-compatible OS which rules out tablets and phones), but I really didn't want to downgrade my RAM and storage capacity.  (Also I wouldn't really need a GPU upgrade cause I don't game much except older games, but would have wanted a significant CPU threads upgrade since I would run a lot of VMs - minimum being the Ryzen 6800U in that GPD, but preferably as many or more threads as my desktop's Ryzen 5950X although I'd be okay with only matching the single-core performance of my current laptop probably; also would want much lower power consumption so I could run full-load all day without running out of battery.  Also I kinda almost want to wait to buy a new laptop until we're on DDR6, as just upgrading from one generation to the next (DDR4 to DDR5) is too soon for me.)

     

    My desktop did successfully get updated to 22H2, although that one's having some other issues right now involving transferring data from 8TB and 10TB HDDs to a couple 18TB HDDs, and other things, but that's 1 - a topic for another post, and 2 - I don't think I'm ready to post about it yet, there's still some things I want to try on my end before I ask for much help on it.  (I don't think it's an issue with the drives though, as sometimes several drives will become unresponsive at the same time, and when I'm on WIndows (although I was running Linux at the time of doing the file transfers due to Windows hiding some files even from admin accounts), other things will happen at the same time, like my ASRock B550 Taichi's wifi becoming unresponsive and not detecting any connections at all.  Usually a reboot fixes it.... for a while.... I just hope it's not something wrong with the motherboard as I don't want to take the system apart until I'm upgrading to either DDR7 mainstream, or DDR6 HEDT/workstation.)

  16.  

    Okay, this time I just decided to categorize the different reply sections, and reply to the categories here.

     

    I've numbered and labeled the sections (sequentially as they appear in the previous post), and I'll go ahead and put my previous very-long draft in a spoiler at the bottom of the post.

    If you want to find a particular section from its number (so you can see the previous "thread"), you can open the spoiler ("Reveal hidden contents") at the very bottom of the post, then search for "► ### - ", where ► is typed on WIndows with Alt+16 (numpad,not over alpha keys), and ### is a 3-digit number from 001 to 112.

    Those numbers are referenced in each section below.  Some are not exactly used, although they do appear in the draft.  Some of those are marked with → (Alt+26) instead of ►.

    Also it took me a good while to get this done, have had (and still do) a lot of other things going on as well.  (I may have to put some of my data decluttering back on the back shelf, although I'll still be doing some general disk-to-disk migrations as that does need to be done.)

    Anyway, once I hit submit on this, next thing I plan to do is prepare my PC for shutdown, install the 18TB drives and start doing some data shuffling / migration, probably booting to the 250GB SSD that has Linux installed on it.

     

     

     

    ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

     

     

     

    ► Backup / Redundancy -- 044 ; 076 ; 099

    Are you saying something about THREE disks for each one, or what?  (Also are you referring to the 3-2-1 backup strategy, or something else?)

    For me, I don't really need live-online redundancy (as in immediate seamless failover to a spare disk), but some kind of backup I definitely should have.

    Elsewhere I mentioned having poor internet (10Mbps and 1TB/month cap) which makes doing online backups pretty much impossible for me.  (I could back up text files and things like that, but that's nothing in the grand scheme of things.)  If I was doing online backup though, I'd prefer something priced no higher than what it would cost me to buy that much space on a HDD over time, considering the warranty.  (A 16TB WD Red Pro has a 5-year warranty, if it's purchased for $269.36, that's (26936/16/60) ~28.0583¢/TB/year, or if you double that (for 2 disks for redundancy) it's ~56.1167¢/TB/year, much cheaper than Amazon or Google's cloud storage, and probably cheaper than Backblaze too.)

    Backing up everything including connected devices was a hypothetical idea - at least for now, although it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to sometime figure out how to back up everything, INCLUDING the backups, and cloud backup, etc.

    Some time ago I heard of people talking about doing daily full backups and hourly incremental/differential backups, but with my mutliple 10s of TBs (actually now probably >100TB) capacity, that doesn't seem possible. 🙂

    Also I've thought of having a backup server be mostly for the occasional full backups, and for incremental backups, have another drive connected to the system that backup files get put on as I'm working on.  Then when it gets full I'd either move it to the backup server and get another local backup drive, or connect it to the server and dump its contents, then resume use as a local backup.

     

     

     

    ► Cables -- 054

    I may have a few broken cables laying around still, but I'll want to get rid of them once I've verified they're broken.  Also maybe I should make an effort to not follow in the footsteps of my dad on some things... yesterday my mom was complaining that he pulled something out of the trash, cause he was probably going to try to fix it.  He used to be really good at that when he was younger, and HIS dad was even better at fixing and even making things, but my dad's showing his age now, he's 76 and not as able to do things as he used to.

     

     

     

    ► Case -- 008 ; 081 ; 082

    Most Chenbro cases I've seen were rackmount, I think.
    For the most part I don't like the RGB (although it has proven useful for "is it powered on or not" diagnostics), tempered glass, etc, I prefer something more similar to my Define R5.  I did take the front door off, though, broke the door on a Xion XON-303 case I had about 10 or 14 years ago and didn't want to break this one.  I probably could technically put it back on as the spot where my Blu-Ray burner would normally go is occupied by my 360mm AIO, and I don't have an extra SATA port for it anyway on this motherboard.

    Quite a few years ago I saw cases with drive bays taking the entire height, and some with even an extra partial stack or two behind the main stack.  I can't find any cases like that sold new anymore.  There's an Antec 900 that's on sale for $118 from Amazon (not 3rd-party, but only says 1 left in stock), which can be configured with 9x 5.25" bays, which in turn can probably house 3 each 5-in-3 drive cages (5x 3.5" in 3x 5.25") for a total of 15 drives, but I'm not planning to get one right now.

    Those ebay examples are from Germany, I'm in the USA; also the cheapest is ~25-35% more than my budget for the ENTIRE system not counting storage, if I was using those cases in a backup solution.

     

     

     

    ► data ; hoarding -- 037 ; 105

    I probably delete less data than I should. 🙂

    Also for things like family / friends documents, photos, audio, video, etc, I'd like to find a good long term storage / backup solution that my great grandkids (I have no children yet) can access even after I'm gone, if they want to.

    As I mention in the "server" section, it would be nice to have a central location for everything, so no matter what device I'm using or where I am, I could access it.  (I do still want to be safe though.)

     

     

     

    ► Disks -- 009 ; 043 ; 075 ; 076

    If possible, I prefer replacing several smaller disks with a single disk equaling their combined capacity, for the price I paid for one of the smaller disks previously.

    (As with anything though, if I have to replace something because of infant mortality (dying before warranty runs out, or otherwise prematurely), I'll try to get what I need at the time.)

    "Refurbish HDD" - Yeah I don't think so, unless it's the manufacturer themselves doing it (or at least someone like DriveSavers or similar but I doubt they're in that business). Otherwise, I suppose someone could "call" it a "refurbish" when they DBAN the disk and, well idk for sure if it's possible to wipe / reset SMART data, but I guess so if you have the right tools?

    Seagate: Yeah, hearing of consistently high failures, and my brother not liking them, are a couple reasons why I'm wary of them.  The only way I would consider using it if it was in a RAID1 array with another disk from a different brand entirely - for example a Seagate Exos combined with a Toshiba MG or WD Ultrastar.

    On the other hand, I've heard of people with really old Seagate drives that were still working 30 or even 35 or almost 40 years later.  A couple examples on YouTube are here and here, of the ST-506 - the actual drive, not just some other drive that uses that interface, as well as an ST-412 video.

    Sometime I'd like to find out exactly how this 8.4GB PATA IBM DTTA-350840 bit the dust.  I could maybe open it up myself (since I don't care about any data that may have been on it, but from the scraping sound the heads are making as they sweep across the platter I doubt it's there anymore anyway), but I wouldn't know what to look for to determine how it kicked the bucket.

     

     

     

    ► Duplicates -- 093 ; 094 ; 095

    I don't want to keep "so many" duplicates, just the originals from the media (camera, audio recorder, etc), and a couple others either for editing, or final renders / versions.

    Some time ago I had a few extra duplicates laying around, where I was, for example, testing a lot of combinations of mp3 encoding.  (I've wanted to also do a similar experiment with video encoding but still need to learn some of the ins and outs of that.)

    A few times I've recently come across some duplicate folder hierarchies in different places.  (When I was moving stuff around on a few disks the other day to prepare them for copying to the 18TB (wanted to resolve any possible "folder with same name already exists" conflicts), I came across a few duplicate folders which I deleted.)

    Some folders may start off at diffeerent levels or different places, but when you drill down farther within the rabbit hole they have the same things in them.  (I've also been learning that it would be nice to be able to look in .zip files or similar and find duplicates there.)

     

     

     

    ► hardware, consumer / workstation / server -- 074 ; 080

    If I had the $ I would have liked to build an Epyc system, but I also generally prefer the aesthetics of some consumer grade stuff (simple designs like Fractal, etc, not RGB/TG/etc or the over the top designs like some other "gamer" cases I've seen in t he past.)

    For now I'm limited to consumer hardware for my platform.  A while ago I thought about building an LGA771 or 1366 based NAS, or maybe even 2011, but was having trouble finding the type of non-rackmount case I wanted...and electricity here is not cheap - several years ago it was upwards of ~40-67¢/kWh or so, and I thought I heard talk of >$1/kWh.

    I also thought of LGA1151 v1, as I do still have the i3-6100 I pulled out of my laptop (Clevo P750DM-G) when I upgraded it to an i7-6700K.  I was having trouble finding cases then as well, although I did see a couple motherboards that looked promising a few years ago, like an MSI C236A Workstation for around $90 or so, and a couple others, maybe an ASRock Z270 Taichi (but doesn't support ECC) or an ASUS P10S WS or whatever it's called, or maybe ASRock C236 WSI, IIRC.

     

     

     

    ► hot-plug, SAS / SATA -- 062 ; 067

    Actually, SATA does include hot-plug ability in the spec, at least for internal SATA I think.  (idk about eSATA though, when I had a board that supported it and an enclosure with that, I don't think I could do it.)

    On both my recent motherboards (current B550 Taichi and previous Z97 Extreme6), there's an option to enable or disable SATA hot plug in the BIOS/UEFI.  On the B550 Taichi I think it's just one setting to enable it globally, while the Z97 Extreme6 has it selectable for each port.  (When I was booting off a SATA SSD, I would set it so the port my boot drive had hot plug disabled, but the rest had it enabled.)

    I don't think the M.2 or PCIe slots support hot plug, although I remember a video Linus did a while ago where he was demonstrating a server motherboard that did support PCIe hot plug.

    On my B550 Taichi desktop, clicking the "safely remove hardware" menu pulls up several HDDs, as well as an M.2 SATA SSD (although I don't think that supports hotplug, idk why it's in the list).

    Also I would want to be careful to not eject a disk while it's being written or read.  I try to make sure my system is set to disable write caching, as I don't want the dialog box to disappear (or a command / terminal to say it's done copying) until it's ACTUALLY done copying and has written everything to disk.  (In the past, I've ejected disks or memory cards after it said it was done, then the system popped up and said oops some data got corrupted.)

    Interesting thing though, I've sometimes seen my RAM usage spike when doing a large copy (and an initial transfer rate of much faster than the capabilities of the disk I'm copying to), even though I thought I had write caching turned off.

     

     

     

    ► image / dd / clonezilla -- 057 ; 097 ; 100

    I did compress the dd image in at least one test.  Problem, though, was it would take forever to try to open it in 7Zip, and my RAM usage would ramp up then it would crash when I ran out of RAM.  (I'm thinking it was trying to decompress the ENTIRE image to RAM, which on my smallest SSD would be 240GB, my largest current one would be 2TB, and I now have a 4TB WD SN850X and Samsung 870 Evo on the way, thanks, Black Friday.)

    I would REALLY like to find a way to compress the images so I can fit more backup images on a single disk, but in a way so I can easily open the image in something like 7-Zip and browse, or extract individual things as needed.

    For now, though, I'm thinking I might just dd the drives to image files on the 12TB Toshiba MG07 drive, and as for the two upcoming 4TB SSDs, I might back those up onto the 8TB Toshiba N300 that I already have, once I've dumped its contents onto one of the 18TB drives.  (I won't be using "dd" for that though, just a file manager in Linux probably, since I'll be combining two HDDs into one - twice, basically.)

    Also, if I'm backing up an OS drive, I want it to be bootable.  I think I've tried Clonezilla in the past, and I vaguely remember it worked once a long time ago, but I've tried it since then and it would fail to boot.  Using dd, though, does work.  (I should maybe test again, but I think a while ago I tested backing up a 240GB SSD to an image file on a HDD, then restoring that image to a 500GB or 1TB SSD that I have laying around as a spare, and the laptop I was using the 240GB SSD in was able to boot off the other SSD just fine I think.)

    DD is the only tool I know of that backs up every single sector (although idk if it also catches firmware, or overprovisioned area / spare sector area though, so maybe I'm not really getting complete backups with it.)

    You are correct though about dd not being the right tool ... for incremental or differential backups.  (I have kinda learned what the difference is, but am forgetting for now so I should probably re-educate myself.)

     

     

     

    ► keyboard -- 073

    For now I'm using a Logitech K270 on my desktop and K360 on my laptop.  For some reason on the desktop, I periodically get some kind of lag spikes where I type or key something, and it doensn't appear on the screen until a second later, or sometimes several seconds.  (Then it will bunch up and all appear at once.)

    Yes, both keyboards are wireless, and maybe wired might have better communication.  (I do have the wireless USB dongles sitting near the keyboard for the desktop, via a USB extension cable.)  I quit using wired for now when my cat chewed the cords, and I also like the convenience of being able to move around somewhat, although with all the clutter around right now I can't do a lot of moving around.

     

     

     

    ► laptop -- 102 ; 104 ; 105

    I believe my laptop (Clevo P750DM-G) technically does support RAID0 and RAID1, not sure if it supports RAID5 or RAID10 though.

    It does have 4 storage slots - two M.2 slots which support both SATA and NVMe, and two 2.5" bays.

    I might be moving to Utah sometime (a possible training / job opportunity not involving tech / PC things), although for the first few months or so I might not have my desktop PC, just my laptop, and I won't have any kind of server setup at my parents' house to access data on my PC there, so I'll need to take some stuff with me on the laptop, and decide what I need to have access to while I don't have my main PC.  Once I'm more settled in I'd make a trip back to CA to get my desktop PC, some furniture, a couple pianos I have, and other stuff.

     

     

     

    ► Linux -- 046

    I have Linux on a secondary SSD in the desktop, and some VMs in my laptop, but I mostly boot Windows 10 Pro as my main OS on both.  (I would consider switching to Linux though, especially if a Windows 12 continues in the direction 11 seems to go in things like wanting online accounts, etc, after 10's support ends.  My brother, I believe is still running 7, although he did help my sister and her kids build a PC a weekend or two ago and that one has 11 on it.)

    I wonder if there's a Windows tool (maybe something built into powershell) that's similar to hdparm.... I do have CrystalDiskInfo, and I think GSmartControl is available for WIndows as well and I do have it installed.

     

     

     

    ► magazine ads, museum -- 025

    I'd like to find a way to scan the entire magazines sometime (without having to do it page by page, just feed the entire magazine into some kind of scanner, or send it to someone), and archive them that way.  I have a couple boxes of the magazines, and would like to get rid most of the physical copies and just keep digital versions.  (A while ago I was doing something similar with several hundred CD-Rs, DVD-Rs, etc that I have, but that project is on hold cause of other things that keep coming up, such is life around here.)

    I'm missing quite a few of that ComputorEdge magazine though.  If I remember a few years ago, the original publisher (Jack Dunning I think, he has auto hotkey stuff on his computoredge.com site last I remember) might still be around, although I haven't reached out to him to see if there's a chance hey may still have the original files from which the magazines were published - maybe there's a way to convert them to searchable PDF or something...

    Also I heard that an author of a few "For Dummies" books had spent time writing for ComputorEdge in the '90s or so.

     

     

     

    ► performance (or lack of) -- 048 ; 090 ; 091 ; 111 ; 112

    I don't think too many disks is overwhelming my system, I think it may be something else causing the issues cause other things ar e happening too periodically, often simultaneously.  (Some things are more common, like my WiFi dropping out and a few HDDs being inaccessible, while others have only happened once or twice like the keyboard/mouse not responding or the GPU going to black screen and 100% fan.)

    I too don't like inefficiency, but I do want a complete job done.  (If I'm parsing through data on an entire HDD, I expect it to take at least as long to do that as it takes to sequentially read the entire drive's capacity.)

    My 5950X isn't THAT slow, but WinDirStat a week or two ago said I had upwards of 5.77 million items on this PC, and that's with not all the drives plugged in or mounted.

    I have a feeling that older disks were "faster" in terms of how long it takes to fill the entire disks.  (I've seen a couple clips on youtube where the write speed in a benchmark was such that it would only take a few minutes to fill up an entire drive, for example I calculated ~99 seconds to fill a 40MB Seagate ST-251, and there was a Connor IDE 20MB drive that could do about 500 KB/s or so.)

    It took me about 11 minutes to fill another 8.4GB IBM hard drive that's still working (same model as one mentioned elsewhere that has the click of death, but a month older).

    Also there's a Tom's Hardware article on "15 Years Of Hard Drive History: Capacities Outran Performance" from November 2006 - the page I linked was "Time Required To Write A Full Platter". The largest drive they tested at the time was a 750GB SATA drive, and it took 52 minutes to read 200GB, or ~27% of the capacity. Compare that to the 37 seconds it took to read 26 MB of a 40 MB IDE drive, or 65% of the capacity. (Extrapolating, I'm guessing it would have taken about 3 hours 17 minutes to read the entire 750 GB drive, vs about 57 seconds for the entire 40 MB drive.)

    Re: the Micropolis SCSI drive - Ahh I think I've seen some kind of site similar to that with old drive benchmarks and things, I think stason.org or something like that.
    If that 1346MB drive transferred data at 2 MB/s, then the drive could theoretically fill in 11 minutes 13 seconds.
    I looked on that site for some smaller drives, and saw several interesting ones, including the 5MB Fujitsu M2231AS and Seagate ST406 (I didn't see the ST506 on the site), the 10MB IBM WD 12, Seagate ST412 and Tandon TM252, which have an internal transfer rate of 0.625 MB/s. Then there's the 21MB Seagate ST325A/X, rated for 1.5MB/s in AT mode and 1.75MB/s in XT mode, and the 42MB Quantum Prodrive ELS 42 AT at 2.5 MB/s. Even if their actual transfer rates are slower, like in your 2MB/s vs 2.916MB/s example, it looks like they would theoretically transfer the entire capacity in about half a minute or less

    Okay, the ST-506 may not reach 500 Kb/s in the real world, but I did see a few youtube videos (01, 02, 03, 04) that included benchmark results from some older MFM and IDE hard drives. Some of them might have only transferred data at like 300-500 KB/s, but with small capacities like 20 or 40 MB it would still transfer the entire capacity in about a minute or two.

     

     

     

    ► RAID -- 007 ; 009 ; 012 ; 014 ; 015 ; 034 ; 107

    I've heard things about software raid being more preferred now vs hardware raid.  (For example, about ZFS preferring RAID cards be in IT mode, not RAID mode)  I've seen a few 9211-8i around $30-40, occasionally 9200-16e ~$25 or so, and rarely the HIghpoint Rocket 750 about as cheap per port (although still more for the card cause more ports)

    I've heard of a few RAID levels, and Raid-Z and Unraid, but don't know all the possible levels.
    I don't need higher performance than single-drive (if I do I'll use an SSD for those situations).
    If disks fail, I want to be able to replace them and rebuild from parity / mirror (I've heard stories of RAID rebuilds taking days or weeks on some drives, I hope to avoid that - hopefully it doesn't take much longer than the time to sequentially write the drive's entire capacity).  If too many disks fail, I don't want to lose the entire array, just the extra disks that failed (like Unraid).

    I've heard Extenders limit you to single-port bandwidth, so I don't like to use them.  With only a few HDDs they might still "fit" within the bandwidth of a single port, but with a lot of SSDs they'll be bottlenecked really quick.

    Also I prefer being able to access disks individually, although true, it can be nice to be able to group everything together sometimes.  I think Linux might actually do a better job of doing that, at least logically or with the file / folder / mount structure.

    UNRAID - Yeah that could be an issue, being unable to read the data if I switch to something else.  Also I've heard horror stories of RAID controllers going rogue and committing fornication with the hard drives, spewing Scheiße all over the place, which helps to further my preference of working with the drives individually, not spanning things across disks.  (The only time I would do that is if I need to store a file that's larger than the capacity of a single disk, and it's been probably 10 or 15 years since I've done anything with floppies.  We still have a few stacks of 5.25" floppies, would be nice to see if there's still some readable data on them, but I've heard they weren't known for longevity...)

     

     


    ► Server / Rack -- 031 ; 051 ;060 ; 078 ; 079

    But where would I even PUT a rack cabinet or storage server or anything like that?

    669416818_PXL_20221113_045731497b01.thumb.jpg.9cd474206c16afc3329844da56952f9a.jpg  684449139_PXL_20221113_045803502b01.thumb.jpg.624620cc004aec3fd85026559828bae4.jpg  27672718_PXL_20221113_045954563.MPb01.thumb.jpg.e2d8ee820a62fccf6f9823a173ead969.jpg  1362631014_PXL_20221113_050328828b01.thumb.jpg.8be69b5431750d99fb0e81b9be40dc30.jpg  2053409614_PXL_20221113_050412105.MPb01.thumb.jpg.1781385767be577f7a8d577daaca1e1c.jpg  1801733047_PXL_20221113_050923618b01.thumb.jpg.041bdd7ad0a1d93ddf72ec17aefb83c7.jpg  784461978_PXL_20221113_050951387b01.thumb.jpg.3fd90aefbffae4f627b21da26525b726.jpg

     

    My current PC setup is in the first pic.  In the 3rd pic, you may just be able to make out a part of a PC monitor sitting on the piano's music desk - that's where I've previously had my PC setup.  I have the stand for that Dell U2414H, sometime I should see if I have or lack any necessary other hardware to attach it.  I've never mounted it on the stand, have always used it sitting on the piano like that.

    I don't have any experience with 19" racks, cases, etc.  I do have an audio cabinet that I got from my grandpa when he passed away that happens to be 19" wide internally, but it's only about 15" deep or so, with the back end being open.  There's no way to secure a 30" or so deep case in there.  (Also right now the cabinet is inaccessible, as there is other furniture and stuff in front of it.  It's not visible, but it's toward the back left of the 2nd pic.)

    Also if I ran a backup server, that's literally ALL it would do - no plex, no transcoding, probably even no zip/unzip/etc.  JUST storing and transferring files.

    Although, it would be nice to be able to have some central place where I could store everything and access it from any device, both in the home and, if I could do it safely and if it weren't for only having 10Mbps upload and a 1TB/month cap, from outside as well.  (Also another project I've wanted to do is converting a bunch of old audio and video tapes, vinyl records, reel-to-reel, photos, etc, and that might be easier done on a server / rack with multiple devices ingesting simultaneously, but for now that project is postponed for probably a few years or more, until I have a place I can set the stuff up, AND can afford the equipment, for example something like a Nakamichi Dragon cassette deck, among other things.)

     

     

     

    ► shopping ; online vs store -- 022 ; 023 ; 024 ; 030

    I remember going to a store a few years ago and seeing this.

    20160328_174602.thumb.jpg.28809fdb369b3ea4c68f5f0b3570ad8e.jpg

    That was Fry's in San Diego, in Q1 2016, I think right before things started really going downhill.  One of the last times I was there before they shut down, a song came on over the P.A. that I thought was pretty appropriate: "Highway to Hell" by AC/DC. 🙂

    In San Diego there used to be a few dozen computer stores or more in the 1990s, but almost all are gone now (most were gone by the mid/late 2000s).

    I buy online a lot now (well okay, not a lot, sometimes my Amazon, Newegg or B&H order history has entire years where I don't place a single order), but some things I might buy in a store if it's available and not too inconvenient, or I'm saving enough $ to make it worth it.  (I bought my 5950X at Micro Center, for example. it was pretty easy to park and walk in but it wasn't Black Friday or GPU launch day.)

     

     

     

    ► Storage -- 005 ; 006 ; 009 ; 017 ; 091 ; 092 ; 110 ;

    I got the drives a couple days later than I'd hoped, but they're here.  Been busy with other things, so as of now I have yet to install them, although I've been forced to restart my PC a couple times.)

    I've never used fiber interface for storage, thought that was for network?

    I have a few Toshiba MG07s (12 and 14TB), and so far they've been fine.

    I heard that when WD got HGST, in the process Toshiba may have gotten some of the 3.5" equipment / technology, but I don't remember for sure.

    This is a short video of scrolling through a little of what WinDirStat found, just scratching the surface.  (I expanded a couple levels of folders, but didn't drill down very far.)
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8w82ux0xm3o
    I noticed quite a few folder structures that looked like they could be duplicate hierarchies while looking through that.

    WinDirStat says 5.14 million files.

    I've seen MFM / RLL drives listed on ebay sometimes, but don't have a system to put them in or the knowledge to work with them.  I've seen posts on other forums geared more toward those things, but don't have accounts there (and have been experiencing "online account overload" anyway), although I have also seen some of them on some retro tech youtube channels.

     


     

    ► warranty -- 039 ; 040 ; 042

    I'm aware of pitfalls of sending disks with data back, would be nice to not have to do that.  (Also they don't preserve / backup the data, they send a blank disk back usually.)

    Also for now I generally don't use encryption to make it easier for me or trusted friends to read the data on other systems, although I do have a couple VMs encrypted.

    If something happened to me or to my next-in-line trusted friends/family, then if someone else needed to access the data, I want to be able to provide a way to do that, while still being safe.

    I just prefer to save $ on replacement disks if it happens within a warranty period.  Yes, I'd need to spend the $640 to buy two 18TB hard drives up front (one for storing the data, one to back up the data), but if one of those fails after, say, 1 or 4 years (assuming a 5-year warranty), I don't want to have to pay another $320 or whatever to get a third replacement disk.  (I'd restore from my backup.)

    A backup will let me have my data right away, and not have to wait for warranty replacement disk.  (I think that would then become the new backup.)

    I thought buying from the wrong (or a not-authorized) seller would affect whether I even HAVE a warranty from the manufacturer?  (Especially if buying a refurb product, but I've heard horror stories of the same thing when someone bought something they thought was new.)  There's a seller on Newegg (EOL Tech I think, and others) I've seen selling hard drives produced like 10 or 15 or more years ago as new I think, I doubt they still have an active manufacturer's warranty. 🙂

     

     

     

    ► web browser, sites -- 070 ; 071 ; 072 ; 073

    I remember a decade or two ago, sites would actually behave properly when loading, I think, for the most part.

    Also I wonder if there's a more sinister reason to move things around on the page after it's loading -- to try to get people to click on more ads.  I've lost count of how many times I went to click or tap something I wanted to open, and the page moved, or an ad spawned right there and I clicked it instead of what I wanted.

    I grew up in the era when it would take a few minutes to boot up, and you could key in commands at the command prompt before it had finished booting, and queue up.

    I want faster internet, but it's not available here.  Yeah I might be able to get 1 Gbps down, but would be limited to 35 Mbps up I think.  (I don't think fiber is available here at least not yet; also I'd really prefer internet that's at least as fast as my SSDs or RAM, or better yet fast enough so everyone in the house, both family and visitors, could likewise have full-speed access that wouldn't bottleneck their RAM or SSDs, but instead would BE bottlenecked by their RAM or SSDs.)

     

     

     

    ► misc -- 001 ; 002 ; 003 ; 011 ; 013 ; 036 ; 083 ; 085 ; 092 ; 108

    001, 003 - emacs/mail: Ahh, I haven't done mailing lists in a while but I remember the > for quotes.  Also I was able, with much effort, to remove the code from the box and prepare it for a reply.  (It involved spreadsheets, multiple drafts, etc.)

    002 - spolers: They are the "Reveal Hidden Contents" boxes.  I'm using them to try to shorten the visual length of the post.

    011 - Backplanes: Most backplanes I've seen are crazy expensive, or in expensive server cases.  (I've had the idea of "making" my own, by somehow attaching some right-angle SATA data & power cables to a board and putting that in place, but idk yet how I'd pull it off.)

    013 - Tape Backup: In 1994, tape was MUCH cheaper, like a tiny fraction of the cost per MB compared to HDDs for the tape, and about half or 2/3 for the drive.
    Last I looked, tape was only moderately cheaper (maybe 20-30% but I don't remember), and the drives were several thousand bucks or more.

    036 - "host managed": I'm not super sure how it works, but I think the OS / software / system has to be involved with working with where the SMR data is laid out, so is generally not for general consumer use.

    055 - ZFS: I've heard ZFS can be made to work with Linux, but it's beyond my level of expertise.

    083 - 9200-16e: The picture is blelow the caption. Also what would create a fire hazard?

    085 - testing, stitching buttons to: WHICH cheeks, the ones on my face or.....? 😂

    Also a while ago I was briefly testing this...

    Spoiler

     

    IMG_20200105_071629.thumb.jpg.836fe9ce21466189cd0b8ad876757032.jpg

     

    092 - mariadb on server: I'm not sure what that is (and I'm not running a server).

    096 - USB stick, boot: I have a couple USB sticks, one with Windows 10 installer and another with several Linux ISOs.  I've been thinking of updating the BIOS on my B550 Taichi (it's running P1.30 now).  I considered buying another flash drive (but didn't like the high $/GB and slow speeds compared to higher capacity drives, and low enduirance or lack of specs), but my Windows 10 flash drive is FAT32, I suppose I could put the BIOS file on there.

    108 - PATA / IDE and predecessor: IDE was renamed to PATA I believe.  MFM / RLL, or ST-506 / ST-412 is what predates IDE.

     

     

     

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

     

    A previous draft, with the sections numbered and labeled, is in the spoiler.

     

    Spoiler

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

    > Okay so this is super annoying ... I've been editing this (in the
    > drafts section) and at least a few times now I've gotten most of the
    > way through, then made a mistake and hit Ctrl+Z to undo ... and it
    > didn't just undo that last little mistake I did, it undid almost
    > EVERYTHING I'd been working on.

    Yeah I know how that goes.  The forum needs good emacs integration.
    Mail-mode is your friend.  I think I already said quite a while ago
    that it needs a mailing list ...

     

     

     

    ► 001 - emacs / mailing list

    Ahh, it's been a while since I've participated on a mailing list, but I remember the ">" characters for quote replies.  (I've also seen other forums that allow you to nest multiple levels of quotes ... I was manually doing that in my draft for my previous reply, although I took those out of the final post.)

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > Also some of my replies to various points were getting pretty long.
    > I left them in spoilers in case you want to see more details, but I

    Spoilers?

     

    ► 002 - spoilers

    Spoilers are those boxes that say "reveal hidden contents".  People use them for various purposes, I'm using them so that longer blocks of text are initially visually compressed, if you want to read them you click/tap "show hidden contents".  (The post would have been even longer if I had left them readily visible.)

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > put some condensed comments outside the spoilers.  (There may be a
    > couple other things in spoilers that are pointed out, those were
    > originally going to be in spoilers anyway even if I didn't put the
    > other things in spoilers.)

    Huh?

    There's no way I could edit this on the web site.  I've copied it into
    emacs so I can edit it in mail-mode, and I guess it'll best to paste
    it later as code.

    In case it becomes difficult to reply to, let me know and I'll edit
    the post and paste it as not-code.

     

     

    ► 003 - emacs / mail mode

    It took a bit of effort, but I was able to take it out of the code box and prepare / format it to reply.

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:


    > For now, re: the original post topic ... I think I'll get a couple
    > 18TB WD Ultrastar HC550 (0F38459 / WUH721818ALE6L4) drives, they're
    > available from B&H for $320 each.

    Ah that's what I thought last night when I was looking out for early
    black friday offers.

     

     

    → 004 - black friday, 18TB $320 ea

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:


    > (I was also considering 20TB WD Ultrastar HC560 (0F38785 /
    > WUH722020BLE6L4) for $380 each from Newegg, but that's a pretty big
    > jump in price for just an extra 2 TB, so I think I'll go for the
    > 18TB drives.)  I just need to order soon, as they do Sabbath there
    > (they're Jewish) and their checkout is closed from Friday sunset to
    > Saturday sunset NYC time.

    Hm, I found a seller that apparently has newer releases of the same
    drive, and the newer ones cost like 150 more.  So it's all relative.

     

     

    ► 005 - newer release, same drive
    I think I've seen a couple things like that, at least on the 20TB drives, there's 2 versions of the same 20TB HC560 or whatever it is, and one site said on the older one's page that there was a newer one, and linked to the other one.

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:


    > Update: Ordered 2x 18TB 0F38459 from B&H earlier today (a few hours
    > before sunset in NYC), hopefully they'll be here next Wednesday
    > (16th).

    nice 🙂

     

     

    ► 006 - nice, after ordering 2x 18TB

    Turns out I wasn't early enough for it to ship out before Friday sundown, but hopefully it'll still be here by Wednesday.  (Earlier when I was looking on Newegg on the 10th, it was saying estimated delivery Nov 11, then when I refreshed the page later (I think Friday morning or so) it said estimated delivery Nov 14.)

    Update: Came this afternoon (Wed, 16th), now gotta get my system ready to install them and reboot to Linux so I can start doing some data transfer.  (Windows might not see some of the files, and there's at least one ext4 partition on one of the drives.)

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:


    > > Yes, that's called fake raid.  When you use that and your
    > > mainboard fails, you will have to find one that can read the
    > > disks, so using fake raid isn't an option.
    >
    > Ahh.  (And I'm guessing real raid would be with a hardware card like
    > an LSI 9211-8i or similar?

    Something like that, I guess.  Hardware RAID should have it's own
    cache and a backup battery.

     

     

    ► 007 - hardware raid

    Ahh, I've heard that HW raid is on its way out though, and raid is more done in software or something, but idk.

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:


    > I've thought in the past about getting one, or a 9200-16e or, if I
    > found a good deal on one, a Highpoint Rocket 750 so I could add more
    > drives, but then my problems would be not enough SATA connectors on
    > my Corsair RM850 PSU or 3.5" bays in my Fractal Define R5 case.)

    That's one of the reasons why you need a case with drive bays and a
    backplane.  I have one of these wonderful Chenbro cases with 16 bays.

     

     

    ► 008 - case, bays, backplane.
    Chenbro, I've seen a couple, but those seem to mostly be rackmount.

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:


    > > It's also not an option to store data on only a single disk.  When
    > > the disk fails, you may loose your data, and it's a big hassle.
    >
    > Yeah... I plan to buy two disks of the same size, one will be for
    > the data and the other will be for the backup.

    Why don't you use RAID1 with these disks and do something else for
    backups?  When you don't, you'll have the big hassle when a disk
    fails, and especially new disks can fail.  If they run for 3--4
    months, they should be fine; after that, they fail not long after the
    warranty has expired and if not, they're likely to last until they're
    being replaced by disks with more capacity, with some exceptions.

     

    ► 009 - RAID1, extra backups, last until replaced with more capacity, etc.

    "replaced by disks with more capacity" ... I like to be able to replace several smaller disks with a single larger disk that's equal or larger than the smaller disks' combined capacities, for about the same price that I paid for one of the smaller disks a few years earlier.

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > But, I'm a bit wary of "fake raid" so I guess I won't be running
    > RAID1, which, among other things, eliminates Seagate drives from my
    > shortlist.

    Do you think Seagate disks would fail even sooner then they usually do
    when used in RAID arrays?

     

     

    ► 010 - seagate failure, RAID, etc

    I just don't trust them really, if I was going to try one, I'd want a non-Seagate fallback in case the Seagate failed.

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:


    > I'd want some kind of setup that is platform, OS, cotnroller,
    > etc. agnostic, so no matter what I plug it into, I'd be able to read
    > it, unless of course the specific drive itself had died.

    There's no such thing.  The very disks themselves do have either a
    SATA or a SAS interface (unless you use fiber, but I don't know about
    that and it's still an interface) and without that, you can't access
    them.  They come with a controller and firmware without which you
    can't access them.  The list goes on from there ...

    What you can do is use hardware that is easy to replace, or you keep
    spares.  Like I have two RAID hardware cards in my backup server
    because each can only handle 2x4 disks.  These controllers have been
    somewhat abundant and are still readily available on ebay starting at
    $30 for the basic card.  They are also somewhat compatible to other
    models of the same line, so if I need to replace one, chances are that
    even a different model of controller could access the disks.  Then,
    it's somehwat unlikely that both would fail at the same time, so if I
    had to, I could use the controller that still works.  It's brilliant
    because I have a spare without actually needing one 😉

    If the backplane fails, I can get mini-SAS to SATA cables and connect
    the disks without the backplane.

    Thing is you need to use decent hardware and not mess around with
    crappy stuff, like stuffing a bunch of hard disks into a case that
    doesn't even have bays with trays and no backplane.  You can do it
    with like 4 disks, but beyond that, it becomes a mess of cables, tends
    to be difficult to cool and just sucks.

    Decent hardware makes live so much easier, and live is way too short
    for bad hardware.  Seeing your pictures, you need to get a rack and
    some nice 19" cases ...

     

     

    ► 011 - server, rack, etc

    fiber interface - I've heard of it but never actually used or seen it.

    $30 RAID cards ... I've seen those, for example the LSI 9211-8i, although when I was looking into things like that, I was seeing people recommend making sure they're in IT mode to pass the individual disks to the OS, like for FreeNAS/TrueNAS or similar.  I've also occasionally seen the 9200-16e fairly cheap as well which supports 4x4 disks (but via external ports, not internal), and once in a while I see the Highpoint Rocket 750 not as cheap, but still cheaper per disk it supports or at least similar, and that supports 10x4 disks.  (But then there's no standard tower / microATX / miniITX case that can mount that many 3.5" drives, that I'm aware of.)

    Backplanes from what I can tell are crazy expensive.  IF I was going to spend a lot on "decent" hardware, I'd need to spread the cost over a much longer period of time - for example, the case, motherboard, etc. would last through at least 3 or maybe 4 PSU swaps (because the Seasonic Prime PSUs with 12 year warranties died of old age).  Also I'd need to wait a while before buying (since I absolutely will NOT use credit / borrow money to pay for it, would be paying cash / debit / similar) - for example, getting a DDR2 or DDR3 based setup around the time DDR5 is getting old and DDR6 is coming out.  (But then there's the issue with power consumption with older hardware, but if I could keep the CPU+GPU combined under about 35-50 watts....)

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:


    > > You really need to use redundancy for your active disks.  I also
    > > recommend it for backups, but when one of the backups fails, you
    > > can make a new one and it's not too much hassle since you have to
    > > make backups anyway if you have at least the minimum of 2
    > > generations of backups.
    >
    > Ah, would redundancy be RAID1, or something else?  (Also my system
    > as-is only supports 8 3.5" drives, which I'd prefer to all be
    > available for storage.)

    Yes, there are lots of RAID levels that provide redundancy.  ZFS is
    doing it's own variants in software.

     

     

    ► 012 - RAID, ZFS, redundancy

    Ahh, I've figured Z1 is like RAID5, Z2 is like RAID6, and there's Z3 which is 3-disk parity but I think RAID7 is something else if it's a thing at all.  (I've also heard of RAID50, 60, 10, and a couple others but am not very familiar with them.  (I'm aware of a Wikipedia article but I'm sure there's some they left off there as well.)

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:


    > > Hard disks are anything but cheap  If you have the disks,
    > > there's no reason not to use redundancy for backups as well.
    >
    > "HDDs aren't cheap"... true  I remember when tape was a tiny
    > fraction of the cost per capacity compared to HDDs, for example in
    > 1994.  I was wanting to see a backup solution today that has a
    > similar price ratio.  (See the spoiler for more details, but you
    > would be able to get a 16TB tape for ~$21, or a 128TB tape for ~$63,
    > and the tape drive would be about 1/2 to 2/3 the cost of a
    > similar-size HDD.)

    How did you get tape drives that cheap?  Tapes were basically done
    when the capacity of DAT drives couldn't keep up, and those were
    expensive and were wearing out all the time.  The tapes weren't too
    bad, though.  Anything better than a DAT drive cost a fortune.

    I do wish we could just use tapes for backups still.

     

     

    ► 013 - cheap tapes

    That was in January 1994, when tapes were much cheaper than HDDs for the same capacity.  A 250MB HDD was $215, a 250MB tape drive was $145, and media was $20.  A 2.1GB HDD was $1850, 2.3GB tape drive was $925, and 2GB media was $59.
    I haven't looked recently, but last I checked, tape was only slightly discounted per TB compared to HDDs (maybe 20-35% or so, idk), it would take 2 or 3 tapes to back up a single large HDD, and the tape drives were several thousand dollars or more.

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     

    > Hmm ... "redunancy for active disks" ... wouldn't that require
    > RAID1, or is there another way?

    Sure, you can use different RAID levels.

     

     

    ► 014 - RAID levels

    Yeah, I'm aware of RAID5, 6, or Z1, Z2, Z3, and I know there's others but haven't looked into them much.

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:


    > (And while my case+mobo+PSU does support 8 3.5" devices, I'd prefer
    > them to be all available for storage and not have to lose some to
    > redunancy, etc, and even then I'd probably be running out of
    > bays/ports.

    The disadvantages of loosing your data, of the hassle and of the
    unwieldyness of having to deal with so many individual disks all the
    time instead of being able to use a larger volume outweigh the cost
    of, at the minimum, using a single disk for parity.

    Look out for a decent 19" case with 16 bays (or more).

    > Also what about some of the pitfalls of, say, fake raid....)

    I've never used it.  What kind of reliability and performance do you
    expect?  There's reasons why RAID controllers have backup batteries,
    and what does fake raid have?

     

     

    ► 015 - fake raid, reliability/performance
    For performance, all I expect is single-HDD performance.  (If I want more, I'll use an SSD for those situations.)
    For reliability, I want something that if a disk fails I can replace it and rebuild from parity or mirror or something, and if more disks fail than I have for parity, I don't lose the entire array/pool, I only lose the data on the extra disks, like UNRAID.

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     

    > "Hard disks are anything but cheap" Tell me about it  Actually I
    > was looking at the cost of backup media vs HDDs in an old magazine
    > ad I have from Q1 1994, and...  A 250MB HDD was $215, 215MB tape
    > drive was $145, and 215MB tape media was $20.  A 2.1GB HDD (SCSI,
    > though), was $1850, a 2.3GB tape drive was $925, and 2GB tape media
    > was $59.

    Yeah it's never been cheap.

     

     

     

    → 016 - cheap HDDs

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:


    > Today, there's a 16TB Toshiba MG08 HDD for $230 from a 3rd-party
    > Amazon seller.

    Are those any good?

     

    ► 017 - Toshiba 16TB MG08, any good?
    I have a couple 14TB and a 12TB MG07, they've been fine so far.  (I don't remember where I heard it a while ago, but I heard that when HGST was sold to WD, some of the technology / equipment, like for 3.5" HDDs I think, went to Toshiba, but I don't remember for sure how it all got sorted out.)

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > Calculating similar ratios, etc, if tape backup was available today
    > like that, I'd be able to get a 16TB tape drive for $155.12 and a
    > 16TB tape media for $21.40.  Or, there would be a 134.4 TB SAS
    > (that's the successor to SCSI, right?) HDD for $1970.07, a 147.2 TB
    > tape drive for $989.53, and 128 TB tape media for $63.12.  (It would
    > be nice to be able to have backup media for which I could fit
    > several HDDs worth onto a single backup.)

    yeah

     

    → 018 - "yeah", to backup media that fits several HDDs

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > Yes, I know tape is very slow for random access (I imagine it
    > basically making a HDD look like an NVMe SSD), but it would

    It takes a while to seek, but that's ok for backups.

     

    → 019 - tape takes a while to seek, ok for backups

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > primarily be for full backups and restores.  (And one idea I've had
    > would be to have some kind of secondary SATA SSD or flash drive or
    > something that just stores the data of where things are on the tape,
    > and maybe short previews of things, for example the first couple
    > pages of text files, several second short clips at 24 kbps 11kHz
    > mono for audio or 240p 15fps q=28 or so for video, and you'd use
    > that to find what you're looking for, queue up everything you wanted
    > to restore, THEN hit "go" and it would arrange the queue
    > sequentially then go through and pull everything off the tape.

    You still have to seek to where the file is, and that means you must
    read the index on the tape or whatever the backup software used to
    figure where to start reading some file.  The backup software had to
    keep some information as to which tape to use and where the file might
    start on it.  Tar works fine, it was made for that kind of thing 🙂

     

     

    → 020 - tape, seek, tar

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:


    > On the other end of the slow vs fast spectrum ... I wonder if we'll
    > ever see HDD duplicators that can duplicate HDDs as fast as
    > commercial optical disk stamping machines can duplicate
    > CDs/DVDs/Blu-Ray...)

    That might not even be possible if we had replicators like they have
    in Star Trek.

     

    → 021 - stamping CDs, vs HDDs, star trek replicators

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    >> I have to order everthing online [...]
    >
    > Ahh.  Well my local Fry's went out, and now pretty much all we have
    > is Best Buy and WalMart.  If I want an actual computer store I have
    > to go to Micro Center about an hour and a half away, and I usually
    > only go there if I'm planning to get multiple things, or if I'm
    > going to be in the area for something else anyway.  (At least it's
    > on the side of Los Angeles area closer to me, so I don't have to
    > deal with as much traffic as if I had to completely go through L.A.)

    It's so much easier to order online.  And the attendends in stores
    tend to be complete idiots and I'm better off ordering online anyway
    because they have no clue what they're doing.  I've had one standing
    right in front of a wall display full of headsets/-phones I was
    looking at, and when I asked for a headset I could use with a phone,
    he said they don't have headsets.  I went home and ordered something
    online instead.

     

    ► 022 - online vs store

    I've been to a store where... well just take look at the caption in the pic, and what's below it...

    maybe paste pic of Fry's, ultimate gaming, 210, HD 5450, 8400 GS

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > > Besides, I remember times when there were interesting stores in
    > > town [...]
    >
    > I remember those times too, although in my case I think it was all
    > the online ordering and things that eventually shut them down.

    Oh they closed well before there was internet.

     

    ► 023 - stores closed before internet

    QUIte a few stores here were still around when the internet was getting started in the mid/late 1990s, but I noticed they were going away in the early/mid 2010s.  Several years ago there were only 1 or 2 local ones left that I was aware of, and at least one of them closed down, idk about the other one.  There were also a couple that had changed from retail to consulting or something like that.

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > But, there were times when my brother said you could stand on some
    > street corners in the area where most of those stores were, start
    > throwing stones, and probably hit like 8 or 10 computer stores.

    There were never that many around.

     

    ► 024 - never that many stores around
    In San Diego there were probably a few dozen or more.

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > In the spoiler are some links to photo albums of old magazine ads
    > from various stores we had in the San Diego, CA area, from 1990 to
    > 2007.  (I have quite a few more magazines still in my paper-and-ink
    > collection, but am missing a few; I remember having some as old as
    > 1987.)

    Cool, maybe scan them and make them available to museums or so so they
    can be preserved for generations to come 🙂

    IIRC, here you would find ads like that only in computer magazines,
    and only a couple pages of them.

    ► 025 - scan magazine ads, museum, etc
    I've actually wanted to find a way to do that sometime, but I don't have the proper equipment to quickly scan entire magazines or stacks of magazines at a time, I'd have to do it one page at a time and it's too big a project for me.  (I'd like to get rid of my paper copies except for a few, to clear up the space they take up.)
    Also while I have a couple file boxes of them, I don't have all of the magazines from that particular series.  I think the original publisher might still be around (magazine was Computor Edge, published from 1983 to 2007 or so, started as Byte Buyer until about 1988, he is Jack Dunning I think), he may have a blog or something on a different topic (I think something like auto hotkey but I forget)... I haven't tried to contact him but I almost wonder if he might still have the original files from which the print copies were made, and maybe there's a way to put the entire collection online or something...  Also I've heard that at least one or two authors of "For Dummies" books had done regular articles for ComputorEdge back in the day.

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     

     


    > The cat on the laptop pic at the end of some albums is just a
    > placeholder, or to remind myself that I've reached the end of the
    > album. [...]

    After all so much reading, it's not surprising that it's tired 🙂

     

    → 026 - cat after all reading tired

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > Also I'll include an album of purchase invoices we've saved.  (I
    > removed personal info before posting.)  This includes the first PC
    > my dad ever bought, a 286-10, 640k RAM, EGA graphics, 40MB HDD, etc,
    > for around $1800 in January 1989.

    I looked at it and I thought "wow, what a luxury!" 🙂 If you wanted
    to spend money like that here, you had to figure out where you could
    buy something like that, and the store had to order it for you.  A
    couple years later, you could find something in larger cities, but not
    long after that, they worked harder on removing parking and the stores
    closed.

     

    → 027 - luxury, sort order, larger cities, closed, etc

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > I cut my computing teeth on that PC at home, although maybe a year
    > or two (not before Q3-1986 cause that's when I started kindergarten
    > / school) before that my parents would take me to a home education
    > center where they had Apple computers, not sure what model they
    > would have been though.

    That's amazing 🙂 Back then, there were only a few computers around
    here, and they didn't really want anyone to use them because they were
    expensive.

    The thing is that back then, everyone kept saying you have to learn
    about computers, especially when you want to get a job.  Nobody cared
    and nobody learned except for a handful of people, so the computers
    took over and the jobs were removed.

     

     

    → 028 - few computers here, expensive, learn, job, etc

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:


    > > I have no idea ... it didn't occur to me that anyone wouldn't
    > > order them online [...]
    >
    > Ah.  As I said / hinted earlier, I typically order online, but might
    > go to a store in certain situations. [...]

    Dunno, for a time, in some cases, it seemed advantageous to buy
    something locally because you could go back and have them fix it if
    necessary.  It became exceedingly difficult to do that, and it has
    never been a real advantage to do that.

     

    → 029 - advantage buy local, fix, difficult

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > (I used to only buy at stores though, cause I was afraid of damage
    > in shipping, but I guess me driving home with the HDDs isn't that
    > big of a difference or might even be worse considering i'm not
    > exactly a slow driver.)

    Yes, and if it happens, what's more annoying: Going back to the shop
    and take the risk of them telling you you broke it yourself or
    returning it?  Here we have the right to return things that we bought
    without seeing the seller in person, like everything we ordered
    through the phone or online, within 14 days after it arrived, and we
    don't need any reason at all.  So if your hard disk arrives broken,
    just return it and take the chance that they won't plug it in to see
    if works 😛 It's probably more trouble telling them that it's
    broken. And you can always say it worked before you returned it
    ... They might be unhappy with returned media, but if anything fails,
    you can always withdraw the money through your bank account and put
    them into the position that they would have to actually sue you, and
    that's a pretty bad position for them.  But I never had to do that,
    yet it's a last resort.

    I'm picturing it:  You drive an hour to the store and drive around
    another half hour to find a parking spot.  You walk a mile or two and
    finally buy two disks.  You walk all the way back and drive all the
    way back home and the day off you had is over.

    After about a week, one of the drives fails.  You take another day off
    and drive for an hour to the store and drive around to find a parking
    spot.  After 3/4 hours you give up and drive back home (yeah I
    actually had to do that and I basically quit going to movie theaters
    mainly because of it even when there still were some worthwhile going
    to, long time ago) and watch some movies for the rest of the day.

    So one day, you finally make it to the store and they are willing to
    return the disk for you and they'll call you when they got the
    warranty case resolved in six weeks or so, and when that happens, you
    can come back and pick up the disk. Maybe even that works out for you
    somehow.

    Three weeks later one of the disks fails again --- perhaps
    not very likely, but you could have bought Seagate.  There you are,
    more days to waste with driving back and forth, with trying to find
    parking and more miles of walking.

    Where's your buyer protection you could have through paypal buying
    online when you're buying in a store?  Is the store going to pay you
    for your time and for all the driving and are they going to somehow
    give you the days you had to take off of work back?  With fuel prices
    as insane as they are nowadays, anywhere you drive is an emergency you
    haven't been able to avoid.

    You still consider buying in stores?

     

    ► 030 - ends in "You still consider buying in stores?"
    Not as much, but for some things maybe.  I wouldn't drive an hour and a half just to buy something cheap for which it costs me more in gas than the item of course 🙂 but I did buy an AMD CPU at Micro Center cause the cost of the CPU there AND the gas would have been less than the cost of buying it on Newegg or Amazon, at the time.  (It's cheaper now of course, but I've already had the CPU for almost a year.)  Also it only took maybe a total of a minute or two to find a parking spot and walk into the store, they have a decent size parking lot right by the store.  (It wasn't Black Friday or GPU launch day when I went though, I've heard it can get crowded then.)

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     

     

    > I've thought about it, but right now I don't have any physical place
    > to put a server, never mind any kind of rack cabinet or anything
    > like that.

    You have lots of pictures with many tower cases and piles of disks
    laying around all in a mess.  That takes at least as much space as a
    rack, probably much less space when you get a 42U rack.  The server
    goes into the rack on top of the UPS, and the disks go into the server
    and you end up with both more space and more disk space and your data
    is more secure.

     

     

    ► 031 - tower case, piles of disks, rack, etc

    but where would I even PUT a rack? 😮
    (show pics of cluttered house)

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:


    > (Also when I was considering building a NAS / backup server, one of
    > my criteria was having the entire cost of the setup, not counting
    > the storage, be less than the cost of a single HDD.)

    Well, you just spent like $600 on two disks you might not even need.
    You may be able to find both a sever and a rack for less than that.
    With a server with a ton of RAM in it you can experiment with
    deduplication with ZFS, or you can use btrfs which apparently doesn't
    need as much RAM for deduplication as ZFS.  You can get the server
    before getting a rack and you might not need so many disks when your
    data is deduplicated.

    The more disks and data you gather, the more unwieldy and expensive it
    gets.  Deduplication doesn't cost you.

    It's not like there aren't options:

     

     

    → 032 - server, zfs, youtube link

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > > You have way more capacity then I do and kept your data since the
    > > 80ies, so of course you do qualify.
    > [...]
    >
    > I thought to qualify for "data hoarder" I had to have never deleted
    > anything, ever (I have deleted some things), and I had to have more
    > capacity than any system available for purchase (either complete
    > system, or parts) could support.

    Just talk to HP or Dell and the like.  They'll provide you with
    something that can store more data than you could ever gather during
    your whole life.

     

     

    → 033 - store more data, entire life

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:


    > (For example, let's say I got one of those dual-socket Supermicro
    > motherboards with 11 PCIe slots, and put a Highpoint Rocket 750 in
    > each slot.

    I doubt that would work.  I have an old RAID controller here which I
    have retired that would support up to 256 drives through using SAS
    extenders.

     

    ► 034 - RAID, support 256, SAS extenders
    Yeah but I"ve heard that extenders / splitters / whatever onl still limit you to the bandwidth on the original ports, hence I don't like to use them if I don't have to.  (For example if you used them to plug 256 drives into what ended up being 2 ports (4 drives each), you'd still be limited to the bandwidth of 8 ports.  Maybe with 16 or 32 drives it wouldn't be a big deal cause they individually fall short of saturating a port's bandwidth, but with 256 of them that would be an issue, I think.

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > Each of those cards supports 40 drives, times 11 is 440

    only 40 🙂

     

    → 035 - "only 40" drives on a card

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > drives, times 22 TB per drive (I'm ignoring the WD 26TB host-managed
    > SMR drive)

    host-managed?

     

    ► 036 - "host managed"

    I'm not sure how it works, but I think the OS / software has to be involved with dealing with where the SMR data is, whereas with "drive managed" the drive itself takes care of it.  I've heard that only enterprise / server level software / OS's are able to deal with host managed stuff, not consumer level like Linux / Ubuntu, Windows, Mac OS, etc.

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > would be 9.68 PB on that system.  That doesn't account for
    > on-motherboard ports, or using bifurcation / splitters to, for
    > example, plug 8 PCIe 2.0 x8 cards into a single PCIe 4.0 x16 slot,
    > or whatever would be the eqiuvalent bandwidth.  A data hoarder, I
    > thought, would have more than that )

    Nah, it doesn't really matter much data you're hoarding.  You're
    already hoarding a lot of data and a lot of disks.  What are you /not/
    hoarding, i. e. how much do you delete?

    It doesn't matter anyway.  What matters is that you find a good
    solution for you.

     

    ► 037 - hoarding data, delete, solution

    I probably delete less data than I should. 🙂 I hope to find a good solution.  Also for some things like family/friends documents, photos, audio, videos, etc, I'd like to someday find a good long-term archive solution that would still be usable several decades from now or longer.  When I've passed away I'd want people who are still around to be able to access those things without having to go through any special fancy rituals.

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > Ah, I do plan to buy two disks, but idk how I'd set up real-time
    > redunancy if I won't be running somehting like RAID1.  (What I've
    > done so far is have one disk of each set of 2 be my data, then the
    > 2nd has stuff manually copied to it then it's unplugged for a while
    > until I need to update or restore, and I'm way behind on updating.)

    Use a different RAID level maybe?  When you have disks in sets of two
    (or another even number) of the same size, you're fundamentally well
    prepared to use some kind of RAID.

    Perhaps take a look at a basic overview like this one:
    https://www.geeksforgeeks.org/raid-redundant-arrays-of-independent-disks/

    That would be classic RAID like with hardware RAID controllers or
    software RAID with mdadm.  And there are some more RAID levels and
    variations.

     

    → 038 - RAID levels, hw/sw, etc

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > >    Using a warranty usually would require that you return your
    > >    disk to someone.  There is no way that I would give my data out
    > >    of hands.
    >
    > True ... but how else would I deal with a failed drive if I wanted
    > to replace it without having to buy another one.

    I don't know, I considered it one time but it seemed to be too much of
    a hassle to tell the seller I'd crush the drive with a fork lift or
    something before sending it in if they would want me to send it back.

    To get on the safer side, you could run the disk for 3--4 months
    without using it and assume it might not fail before the warranty has
    expired.  But nowadays, the warranty is 5 years.

    Or you could encrpty the data.  It's a bit unwieldy and may cost
    performance, but at least you can make use of the warranty even if you
    need to return the disk.

     

    ► 039 - warranty, failed disk

    Ahh, yeah I'm aware of the pitfalls of data on a disk being sent back, it would be nice to not have to deal with that.  Also in most cases I haven't been encrypting data, except for one of the Linux VMs on my laptop.  (I want to be able to access the data without having to deal with that, or if something happened to me I'd want friends and family to be able to access it, even if something simultaneously happened to everyone that might have the credentials to bypass encryption.)

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > Yes, there's the issue of the data on it, but that's what backups
    > are for.

    Backups won't prevent someone from reading your data from a disk you
    returned under warranty.

     

    ► 040 - warranty, backups not prevent others reading data

    Well that aspect of it is true, but it would still let ME have the data right away and not have to wait for the replacement disk to come back.  (Also they would just send a blank disk back anyway.)

     

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > (Backups, however, won't save you the cost of a new HDD when you
    > need to replace one that died prematurely, afaik.)

    right

     

    → 041 - backup save cost new HDD "right"

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > I'm pretty sure warranties don't apply buying used parts from
    > private sellers.

    That depends.  When you have a switch from HP with a lifetime
    warranty, and lots of them have one, they'll send you an
    as-good-as-new replacement even when the switch is like 15 years old
    and you bought it on ebay for $20, at least when you're a company that
    returns it.  Fans don't last forever ...

    I don't see how it should matter who you bought something from.  Who
    the seller is doesn't alter the product in any way.

     

    ► 042 - switch HP life warranty, replacement, seller doesn't alter product

    The seller may not alter the product, but I thought buying something from the wrong seller could affect the warranty?  Like, "We're sorry, but you didn't buy this from an authorized retailer, so the warranty is void", or "The product you purchased was either refurbished, or intended to be part of another system, or shucked from an external enclosure, so contact the seller for warranty."

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > Also I've heard that they may not apply when buying refurb parts
    > from non-authorised sellers (in those cases the sellers are supposed
    > to provide the warranty, same if you bought a complete system with a
    > drive inside it from a retailer).

    Claiming you could refurbish a hard disk is bullshit.  There's no way
    that a seller who got a hard disk could somehow improve its
    condidtion.  Such a claim is fraud and I'm surprised that ebay, for
    example, tolerates that.

    What's the seller gona do to it?  Change out the bearings and other
    parts that might have experienced some wear?  Replace some capacitors
    that may be on the controller board?  That would cost way more than a
    new disk.

    All they could do is blow off the dust and delete the data.  Deleting
    the data makes the disk worse through usage.  It's been a long time
    that you could actually format a hard disk.  Perhaps you still can
    when you have the right equipment, but I'd like to see the seller who
    has that.  Back then, you could also drive the reading arms all the
    way over the platters until they hit the limiter and cause the disk to
    make bad noises.

    Maybe that's what they do when they're refurbishing them, drive the
    arms all over into the limiters through the use of some special
    equipment and when the disk makes funny noises it's still good to go
    for sale.

    And other parts?  What's there to refurbish?  You can pick the good
    parts from the hardware you have and use that to put something
    together that works, but I wouldn't call that refurbishing,
    either. The parts remain unchanged and you're still selling a heap of
    old parts that still work.

    The broken parts that remain are the ones you can refurbish buy
    recycling them to create new parts.

    As to warranty, there are legal requirements here.  Of course, when
    your hard disk fails after 4.99 years, the seller may not be around
    anymore.  If you buy solar panels with a warranty of 25 years and have
    them installed on your roof and one fails after 22 years, whoever who
    installed them may not be around anymore; neither might be the
    manufacturer.

    Just check what warranty you get and what the chances are that you can
    make use of it before you buy.

     

    ► 043 - refurbish HDD

    yeah, to me, "refurbish" an HDD... whaaat?  at most that would involve wiping the disk, MAYBE erasing some smart data like power on hours, etc (and there would be problems with that too), basically only "software" "refurbish".  Only the manufacturer themselves or MAYBE someone like DriveSavers or another data recovery place capable of opening up a drive in a clean room / flow bench could replace platters, heads, motors, etc, and I imagine they'd rather sell a new drive.

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     

     

    > > What I meant is that if I were to buy 16TB hard drives, I'd have
    > > to buy at least two of them and that would cost me over EUR 1000.
    > > Discs always come at least in pairs.
    >
    > Ahh, one for data, one for backup basically.

    No, it's for redundancy.  Backups are extra.  (Fortunately, I found
    chaper ones, but still ...)

     

    ► 044 - backup, redundancy.

    Are you hinting / saying something about THREE disks for each disk of data or something?  One for the data, one for redunancy, one for backup?  Or something else?
    I thought the 3 disks was for something like .. 3 disks, one with your data, one as a local backup preferably on a different media, one as an off-site backup.  (Or basically the 3-2-1 backup strategy.)

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > "Discs always come at least in pairs" ... maybe it translates to
    > English a bit different han whatever your native language is, but to
    > me, what I imagine is that it's not possible to buy one disk at a
    > time.  In reality though, at least here, you CAN buy one disk at a
    > time if you want to, but it's much more advisable to buy two.

    Well, yes, in theory, I can buy a single disk.  But what would I do
    with it?  It's not that I couldn't buy one, it's simply not an option
    to buy only one because I won't have redundancy, and without that, I
    can't store data on it and it's useless other than for backups maybe.

    So you might think sure, only $300 for 16TB is a good price and not
    expensive.  Actually, it costs $600, and how much data you can store
    depends on the RAID level.  With only two disks, that's only 16TB, so
    16TB actually cost $600.  What else did you think?

     

    → 045 - theory buy single disk, but no redundancy, actually 2x cost per disk because redundancy, etc

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > > You can always check with hdparm. [...]
    >
    > Apparently hdparm isn't on here, and idk if it's available.

    You said something about having Linux somewhere.

     

    ► 046 - hdparm, linux

    I have Linux on a secondary SSD in my desktop, and in VMs on my laptop, but I mostly boot WIndows 10 Pro for now as my main OS.  (In the back of my mind I've been considering switching to Linux, and I may be forced to eventually once WIndows 10's support ends if Windows 11, or 12 if it becomes a thing, doesn't allow me to create just local accounts, among other times.  My brother is still running Windows 7, I think I've heard him say things like he'd switch to Linux rather than upgrade to 10 or 11.)

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > [...]
    >
    > I wonder if other things could possible be causing issues.

    like multiple issues maybe

     

    → 047 - other things, multiple issues

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > I just hope I don't have to rip my entire system apart, [...]

    Perhaps you have too many disks in it and it's overwhelmed because of
    that.

     

    ► 048 - too many disks, overwhelmed
    I don't think it's how many disks I have. 🙂 I'm suspecting other things but idk what.

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > Maybe; although idk if firmware updates are available or not,
    > haven't checked (and I've never updated firmware on a HDD anyway
    > that I can remember).

    I have done it once with disks that would disappear after a while. I
    had to turn off the computer to get the disk back.  So I had to keep
    checking every now and then if had gone away because sooner or later,
    I wanted the RAID to rebuild.

    Almost 10 years later there finally was a firmware update for these
    disks.  One of them had already failed and the other one was usless
    because it would disappear all the time.  The firmware actually fixed
    it and I was able to finally use the disk.

     

     

    → 049 - firmware updates, 10 years, etc

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:


    > I'm not 100% sure if it's the disks, cause other things also act up
    > around the same time.

    like when you have multiple issues ...

     

     

    → 050 - multiple issues

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:


    > [...]
    > While I'm sure some people can take apart and rebuild an entire
    > system in maybe a half hour or so, it takes me probably a full day,

    It gets so much easier when using 19" cases like you wouldn't believe.

     

    ► 051 - rebuild, 19" cases, etc

    Ahh I haven't had experience with those.
    I technically have an audio cabinet that just happens to be 19" wide internally, but not with rails, and it's only about 13-16" deep or so, but the back end is open.  No way would I put a 30" deep case in it though.

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > and don't even get me started on configuring my OS, software,
    > etc. the way I want it, or the way I had it before.)

    That was never really possible with Windows.  Just use Linux, then you
    have package management amongst other things.

     

    → 052 - windows, configure, linux, package management

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > So is there a firmware update for those, or is there anything else
    > special about them?  Maybe broken cables?

    Maybe; you could find out.

     

     

    → 053 - firmware update, broken cables

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:


    > [...]
    > SATA cables that have been slightly modified with the aid of my
    > cat's teeth, one had its retention clip broken off, etc.

    Are you hoarding broken cables?  Give them to recycling so you don't
    accidentially use broken cables.

     

    ► 054 - broken cables
    I may still have a few laying around, but I'll want to get rid of them once I've tested to be sure they don't work.  (By "test" I mean plug it in and see if it recognizes a drive.)

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     

     

    > > It depends ...  Unfortunately, ZFS isn't compatible with Linux
    > > only for stupid licensing issues (you can get it to work, but that
    > > isn't a good option)

    I have to correct myself again, you just have to know how to.

     

    ► 055 - ZFS, linux, compatible

    I've heard it can be made to work, but ... is probably beyond my level of expertise. 🙂

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > [...]
    > I've never used ZFS.  Had considered it for NAS/backup server, but
    > would lean more toward UNRAID or similar.  (I like how it lets you
    > [...]

    Maybe that's a good option for you then.  I guess you can always try
    it out and see how you like it.  But how compatible is that with other
    stuff, what if you want to switch to something else and can't read
    your data anymore?  For all you know, they might call in your license
    and then you're screwed.

     

     

    ► 056 - UNRAID, license

    yeah that could be an issue, hadn't thought of that.  (I wonder if there's a way to make ZFS behave the same way, or if there's something else that's license-free, that lets me add disks one at a time, and if more than parity fails I only lose that extra data, not everything.

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     

    > Dedup/backup ... A while ago I was wanting to back up a bunch of
    > SSDs to a 12TB HDD.  If I didn't use compression I could just "dd"
    > to a disk image and they'd still all fit for now, but... (see in the
    > spoiler).

    What prevents you from compressing the disk image created with dd?

     

    ► 057 - compess, image, dd

    I did compress it in at least on test I did.  Problem is, it would take forever (like maybe a few dozen minutes or an hour or more) to open the image in 7-Zip, and when I tried a while ago, it was basically trying to open the entire image in RAM, and failed cause I only had 32GB RAM in that system and was trying to decompress an image of a 240GB SSD.

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > Also I'm not familiiar at all with BTRFS, or with VDO.

    That means you need to learn more.

     

     

    → 058 - learn more, btrfs, vdo

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:


    > [...]
    > but I also have a couple 2 TB SSDs I'd want to back up as well,
    > preferably compressed, and I don't have 2+ TB of RAM (or want to
    > take the time) to decompress the image file before I can access its
    > contents.

    That seems like a rather unwieldy way to make a backup.  Why don't you
    just copy the files you want to back up?  It doesn't seem like you'd
    still need a functional disk image.  You're probably wasting 60GB of
    space with that.

    Maybe use this: https://clonezilla.org/

     

    ► 059 - backup SSDs to HDD, clonezilla

    Well I was wanting to have disk images that, at least for my boot drive, would be bootable, and from what I remember I"ve had trouble doing that with Clonezilla.  (Maybe I'm doing something wrong though, idk.)
    As for saving space, that's why I was trying to compress the "dd" images with gzip. (Maybe that's where I'm going wrong, maybe gzip isn't the right thing to use...)

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     

     

    > > How well did that work?
    > [...]
    > HAH  .... not well
    > [...]
    > I imagine my ASRock B550 Taichi might have a bit more DMI (or
    > whatever it's called) bandwidth, maybe PCIe 4.0 x4 or 3.0 x8 but I
    > forget, so it might do better with HDDs connected.  (One factor that
    > made me choose it was the factor that I can have all 8 SATA ports
    > and both M.2 slots populated simultaneously without having ports
    > disabled.  I think it might cut one of the PCIe slots bandwidth in
    > half if I have everything populated, but idk if I'll use that slot
    > unless I plug in at least two SAS/SATA HBAs.)

    Imagine what software RAID might do.  That's the beauty of hardware
    RAID.  You can have a single RAID card to drive 8 (or even more) disks
    without all the overhead and without all the copies of the data going
    to each disk going all through the mainboard.  Not having that may be
    fine for a file server that doesn't have much else to do, but for the
    maschine you're sitting at and are using for what you want to use it
    for, it can be a nasty and quite noticable burdon.

     

     

    ► 060 - sw/hw raid, copies through mainboard, etc

    "file server that doesn't have much else to do" yeah basically if I was setting up a backup server that's ALL it would do - no Plex, no transcoding, maybe not even zip/unzip or anything like that, JUST storing and serving files.

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:


    > > Older cards were limited to 2TB.
    >

    > Ahh, I guess the BT-PESAPA card I had (actually still do, but only
    > use it rarely for PATA) was limited to tthat, it's from around 2005
    > or so I think so maybe 2TB drives didn't exist then.

    yeah

     

    → 061 - "yeah" BT-PESAPA, 2TB

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > Also several years ago I wanted the ability to pull individual
    > drives out of a system to use with a 3.5" dock somewhere else, but
    > I'm pretty sure USB flash drives and external SSDs would be better
    > for that now.

    You can do that with SAS drives.  I don't recommend it and I still
    rather turn the machine off when possible, but replacing a failed disk
    by pulling the failed one out and plugging the new one in without any
    further ado is really nice and not something I'd worry about (because
    when the disk has failed, no data gets lost).  Being able to do that
    is another beauty of hardware RAID.  Not being able to do that can be
    expensive.  SATA really sucks, why couldn't they make it hotpluggable.

     

    ► 062 - SAS, SATA, hot plug

    Actually one of the specs of SATA is that it IS hot-pluggable, at least for internal SATA.  (I don't think I was able to hot-plug eSATA though but idk.)
    On my B550 Taichi, there's an option in BIOS to enable SATA hot plug, if I remember right it's just one setting to globally enable / disable it, so I have it enabled and can just unplug and plug disks in as I wish without shutting down the system.  Also if I click the "eject devices button" in the tray, there's several HDDs listed there, plus an M.2 SATA SSD but I don't think M.2 supports hot plug on my system.
    Linus did a video a while ago where he was showing a server motherboard that supported PCIe hot plug.  Mine doens't support that, although it would be nice to have in a future system.  (Also if it supported hot plug on RAM, and if I had dual sockets, CPUs, that might be interesting.)
    On my Z97 Extreme6, each of the 10 ports had its own setting to enable / disable hot plug, so I enabled them on 9 of them, but left SATA0's hot plug disabled cause that's where my boot drive was plugged in.

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > [...] (I've wondered if it was a limitation of SATA II (3Gb/s)
    > though... but I think I've heard of people plugging in >2TB drives
    > into SATA II ports on other systems and it was fine, but idk.

    IIRC it had to do with the BIOSs (and sometimes the hardware) not able
    to handle so many sectors.

     

     

    → 063 - BIOS, hardware, sectors, limits

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:


    > Interesting thing though, the BT-PESAPA's boot spalsh text doesn't
    > pop up on my AM4 board,

    That's because EFI sucks.  There are tons of issues with older cards
    in newer boards.

     

    ► 064 - EFI sucks, older cards, newer boards

    I wonder what would be a good solution then.  I dream, sometimes, of being able to plug in an MFM hard drive and 5.25" or 8" floppy drive into the same system that would also have a U.2 (or is U.3 the newest server version or something) and M.2, among other things. 🙂 (I've heard of "industrial" motherboards that had ISA and PCI Express slots, maybe with LGA 1150 or 1151 or something like that.)

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > and I can't see devices plugged into it from WIndows, but I can see
    > them from Linux.

    perhaps there's no module that would support the card

     

     

    → 065 - windows, linux, see devices, no module support

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:


    > [...]
    > Also I mentioned earlier about liking UNRAID in that drives could be
    > added one at a time.

    ... which probably means that it's not compatible to anything else

     

    → 066 - unraid, add one at a time, not compatible anything else

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > I've also wanted the ability to pull a single drive with things on
    > it and take it to a friend's house for whatever, but I imagine that
    > a USB drive or external SSD would these days be much better suited
    > for the purpose.

    indeed

    Even with SAS drives, what to you expect to happen when you pull a
    disk while it's been written to or read from?

     

     

    ► 067 - pull disk while reading/writing
    Well I would try to make sure it's not reading or writing to the disk when I pull it. 🙂 For example, make sure no program is accessing the disk, or if I'm copying something, make sure it's finished copying.  Also I try to turn off write caching, as I don't want the progress dialog to disappear until it's ACTUALLY done.  I've had issues before where I had caching enabled, then when the dialog hit 100% and disappeared and I pulled the drive it popped up and said "oops we weren't done some of your data didn't properly copy" but if I turned off caching I didn't have that issue.
    (One thing though, at least on my other PC, I've sometimes seen my RAM usage spike up when doing a large copy, idk why, maybe there was some caching enabled there or something, idk; also at first it was copying at a rate that was several times faster than the maximum rated sequential transfer rate of the media.  Or could that be how dramless SSDs or USB flash drives work, or whatever uses HMB - host memory buffer?  I don't think I have any DRAMless SSDs that I know of, I try to avoid those.)

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:


    > [...]
    > > The overcommitment doesn't really matter until the RAM isn't actually used.
    > [...]
    > Ahh.  Also something I haven't figured out is why my PC often gets
    > lag spikes (sometimes small and barely noticeable like the one I
    > just had where I typed 2 or 3 words before it appeared on screen,
    > but sometimes also pretty big where half the system is unresponsive
    > for a minute or two or more), even though I might only be using
    > 5-10% of my CPU, and my RAM is only about half used.  (I would have
    > thought I shouldn't be getting input / processing lag spikes or
    > whatever until my CPU and RAM were both maxed out.)

    That's like long interruptions ... try it with only two disks in a
    RAID1 and see what happens, instead of having 10 single disks plugged
    in.

     

     

    → 068 - long interruptions, try 2 disks in RAID1 instead of 10 singles

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:


    > Also just now I was editing a portion of the draft for this post,
    > and... I highlighted a selection of text, Ctrl+X'ed it, clicked the
    > spot where I wanted to paste, Ctrl+V'ed, then clicked another spot
    > to click and drag to highlight and delete some text .... but there
    > was a delay from when I hit Ctrl+V until it actually pasted, and it
    > pasted the text in the other spot where I was going to try to
    > delete.

    So that's extreme ...  Maybe you're having multiple issues ...

     

     

    → 069 - extreme, multiple issues

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:


    > Side note, it's super annoying when websites either load elements
    > that move things around on the page AFTER it has visually started to
    > appear,

    That could be the web browser figuring out that it needs to display
    stuff differently when more of the page gets loaded.

     

     

    ► 070 - web browser displaying stuff differently when page continues loading
    I think I remember a decade or two ago it didn't do things like that.  (Sometimes I wonder if there's a more sinister reason behind it, to "prey" on people that have habits like me, remember how things used to be, and we go to click on one thing expecting it to be what we wanted, but they somehow move things around and we end up clicking on an ad (which to me is anything where they hope to get anything of value, financial or otherwise, as a result) - I've lost count of how many times that happened to me.)

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:


    > or when, on a login page, it jumps your cursor to the
    > username entry field.

    Isn't that where it's supposed to go?

     

    ► 071 - cursor, username, supposed to go

    Well, maybe, but not if I've ALREADY clicked / tabbed there, typed, then tabbed to the password field. 🙂  And I suppose someone (I imagine my brother would be this way) could make the argument that the site should not force / suggest you to do something, the user should have total control over how they interact, what they do, etc, and I'd personally agree at least on the user having total control over how they use their PC, websites, etc.

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > I've lost count of how many times I go to click one thing and I
    > click something else instead cause it moved, or, I'm in the process
    > of logging in and start typing my password in clear text in the
    > username box.

    Just wait until it stabilizes.  Or get faster internet 🙂

     

    ► 072 - wait stabilize, faster internet
    Yeah, but I grew up in the era when it took minutes to boot up, AND you could start doing things before it finished booting, at least on the PC.  As for faster internet... I want it, but it's not available here.  Yeah, I can get 1 Gbps down, but only 35 Mbps up, and I want a minimum of 1 Gbps up.  (I'd REALLY like internet that's at least as fast as my storage, or as fast as all the PCIe / RAM / VRAM bandwidth combined of all devices in the house that might ever be connected to it.)

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > I remember the days in the MS-DOS era when, while the PC was booting
    > up, there was some kind of keyboard buffer or something so we could
    > start entering commands and things before it had even finished
    > booting.  (Why a similar ability doesn't seem to carry forward to
    > modern times escapes me.)

    That's still there, isn't it?  The keyboard does that, it least it
    should.  Maybe you need a better keyboard?

     

    ► 073 - keyboard buffer, better keyboard

    Well for now I'm using a Logitech K270 on my desktop and K360 on my laptop.  I'd like something better sometime, but I've had trouble finding anything that's actually silent.  My existing keyboard is almost blowing out my eardrums from the sound of the keypresses, but maybe I'm typing too hard cause sometimes my fingers are a bit sore. 🙂

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > > It seems like you need hardware that's more reliable.
    >
    > Maybe.  I thought the stuff I had was supposed to be at least fairly
    > decent, at least if I remember right reading reviews on it, there
    > weren't a lot of complaints about DOA, failures, etc that I could
    > remember.

    I guess it's standard consumer hardware.  Since I started buying used
    workstations off ebay with Xeons in them, I don't have weird issues
    anymore.  Sure I don't get the fastest and greatest, but it's more
    than fast enough and costs a fraction of the money I'd have to spend
    buying new.

    It might be fun to buy some new parts and put them together, but
    besides cost, what holds me back is that I don't know if I can get
    something that stable that way.  It's still comsumer hardware, unless
    I were to buy a new workstation from Dell or HP.

    And that means 'sufficiently stable'. These workstations just work.
    It's amazing.  I have a $2700 CPU in my workstation I payed 150 for
    when I upgraded the CPU because I wanted a few more cores.  Now I have
    2x14 cores.  I guess you get what you pay for.  It redefines what
    'sufficiently stable' means.

     

    ► 074 - consumer hardware vs workstations

    Ah... if I had the $ I'd like to get an Epyc system sometime... but I also happen to generally prefer the aesthetics of consumer cases and things, but not all the fancy stuff like glass windows, RGB, etc.  I'm satisfied with the aesthetics of my Fractal Design Define R5, for example, although I've taken the front door off it cause I hate those things.  (I had a previous case with a door that I broke several years ago.)

     

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > I mentioned earlier I'm not considering Seagate HDDs - that's
    > because of possible reliability issues I've heard from some people,
    > including my brother and others.

    Yeah I've seen Seagates consistantly having very high failure rates
    over the decades.

     

    ► 075 - Seagates, high failure

    Yeah, that's a reason why I'm wary of them, and would only use one if I was using it in a RAID1 array with another brand of disk.

    On the other hand, I've read stories on various retro computing forums, at least several years ago, of people with drives like the ST-225, that were still working totally fine 30 years later.

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > I wonder if the newer IronWolf Pro or Exos drives might be okay
    > though, but I would only consider one if I was running it in a RAID1
    > array with a different brand drive, like a WD Ultrastar/Gold or a
    > Toshiba MG-series drive.  (As for that, see the comments earlier
    > about "fake raid".)

    Why would you buy Seagate?  I wouldn't want to be forced to encrypt my
    disks so I can make use of the warranty.  Even then, what do I do
    while I'm waiting on the replacement?  Run the RAID in degraded mode
    for the 6 weeks or however long it takes before I get it replaced?

     

    ► 076 - seagate, warranty, encrypt, replacement

    I'd be wary of Seagate, and wouldn't use it as my only / primary drive.

    idk where to put this comment but ... I basically want to minimize my cost in case things go wrong.
    One thing I was thinking of... if I was using an online backup / storage that charged by how much data I was using, my maximum budget would be something like ... take the hard drive that is the cheapest per TB, accounting for warranty length.  For example, if the cheapest is a $256 16TB drive with a 5-year warranty, then my maximum budget would be (250/16/5) $3.20/TB/year. (Or is my assumption wrong that big companies like google, amazon, backblaze, etc) can buy drives in bulk, like several thousand at a time, for a tiny fraction of the cost per drive or per TB of what it would cost me to buy them one at a time?)

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > [...]
    > "Stuffing more disks", I can't really do that, 8 is my max right
    > now.

    A nice Dell R720 can fit that nicely.  I'd go for a 12xLFF, though,
    that gives you more to add more disks if you need to.  And you need
    something to boot from.

     

    → 077 - Dell R720, 12xLFF, etc

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > At this point though, I'd be replacing smaller disks with larger
    > ones,

    So yes, get your storage server up and running and move the data to
    it.  You could go the easy route and simply make a hardware RAID5 and
    put btrfs on it.  I was told you can use bees which would do the
    deduplication in the background and keep deduplicating stuff while
    you're writing.

    Then you end up with a bunch of small disks which you can use for
    backups.  That's what I do with my old disks.

     

     

    ► 078 - storage server, dedup

    Where would I put a storage server though 😮

    (insert pics of cluttered rooms)

    (((

     

    From

    F:\Pics\from Pixel 6a\DCIM ; Camera\2022-11

     

    PXL_20221113_045530581 = living room from entry hall, but not wide

    PXL_20221113_045544802 = living room from entry hall, but not wide

    PXL_20221113_045731497 = in living room between couch and stuff, looking toward computer, wide angle

    PXL_20221113_045803502 = living room from entry hall, wide angle

    PXL_20221113_045954563 = living room from pantry, piano on right, wide angle

    PXL_20221113_050328828 = my bedroom, from door, wide angle

    PXL_20221113_050412105 = in my bedroom, from near bed, toward closet, wide angle

    PXL_20221113_050923618 = guest room & work room, from doorway by hall, wide angle

    PXL_20221113_050951387 = spare bedroom, from doorway, wide angle

     

     

    )))

    also as I said, I don't know if dedup would be what I exactly want.  Yes it would free up space, but my system and I would still think there's logically multiple copies of things there, and THAT is what I want to clean up, get rid of that extra clutter.  Problem is which copy in which place to keep, and what to--- or, maybe I just need to completely overhaul my organization system, it's a hodge-podge of methods that hearken back all the way to when we first had a PC in 1989.... I'd like to find a method that I can set it up that way, then keep using it in almost perpetually, even when I'm 80 in 2061, or if I live that long, 90 in 2071 or 100 in 2081.  (Then when I've passed away, if my kids / grandkids, or if I never have any, nephews/niece (only 1 so far) want to do things differently they can.)

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:


    > I don't have a working UPS now.

    Ugh.  Get a nice 19" UPS from APC and put it at the bottom of your
    rack because it's heavy.  You can buy them used, it's not like they'd
    go bad except for the batteries that need to be replaced every now and
    then.  The good thing with APC is that you can get new batteries
    easily.

     

    ► 079 - 19" UPS, APC, rack, etc

    I just have no place for a rack.

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > Also I'm using 4x32GB Team Expert DDR4-3600 CL18 in my current AM4
    > system, but running at 3466 cause it's not quite stable at 3533 I
    > think, [...]

    I'm glad I have my workstations.  They work.

     

    ► 080 - glad have workstations

    Ahh. I'm for now limited to consumer hardware.  A while ago I was thinking of getting LGA 771 or 1366 Xeons and building a NAS / backup server with them, but was having trouble finding standard (not rack) cases that would support all the drives, and then I got to thinking of the power consumption, and the factor of electricity being upwards of 35-67+¢/kWh here, and that was several years ago so who knows it could be flrting with or even past $1/kWh in some cases...

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > As for "stuffing more disks into my computer"... if there was a way
    > to actually safely mount all of them AND hook them up...

    That's what a decent case is for.  When I see all these funny tower
    cases and what not that have all these cooling issues, I always wonder
    'ok and where are the drive bays?'.  People put useless lights into
    their computers but they don't even have drive bays, not to mention
    backplanes.  How would that be useful?

     

    ► 081 - decent case, cooling, bays, lights, etc

    Haha yeah, I don't really like the fancy lights and stuff.  (Although a while ago when I was having power issues with my system, my B550's default RGB lights did come in handy as a "power on" status indicator, although that problem was fixed when I replaced my PSU, from a Corsair AX760 that I'd carried over from the previous system, to an RM850, although I was a bit disappinted to be downgrading from 80+ Platinum to just 80+ peasant Gold.)

    I remember several years ago seeing cases with drive bays taking the entire height (and sometimes even ones with a partial second stack), now it's rare to find even a full tower case that has more than 2 3.5" bays, even if it could fit an SSI EEB motherboard.  (And contrary to what some people think, if it won't fit SSI EEB, it's not "EATX", or, 12" x 10.7" is not "EATX", but 12" x 13" is.)

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > (Also if I was using a low profile CPU cooler, like something that's
    > not taller than the VRM heatsinks, then I'd have room for several
    > more HDDs...)

    There you go:

    https://www.ebay.de/itm/144404111197?hash=item219f27df5d:g:9O8AAOSwrZhhZ1kA&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4Gd1O5vyvyoOW8IY7xiInNzYaIhHzWGYsB9uG%2FBy9No%2FRFycFaB2vLBVCAkTzk2mARHqw4byVGoz5WrfKjZPmHrNC9KznX%2FedCAOPPgLbQPWF3QeO6e3c%2Bo1VzQz%2FE6VlwfrKtqMOxqQspmFyh0WHfKfPIJ5OdVnB0fSgQBpawv5IeTrnCY28NPGZt71JcIcewXylV%2FF%2Bjt0ZOx%2FGA2vHzdOrLINkpbiquIBBKGXfGwIhTV8ScfySa8R401vi6LVUf%2FNisXknEewUWze14IyZvI8w2%2FuebQ5uE%2BoCxJ3f0c2|tkp%3ABk9SR6SEz7yNYQ

    https://www.ebay.de/itm/284981250850?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20201210111451%26meid%3D28e63db09b324ae4a36854e8ccbea38d%26pid%3D101196%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D11%26sd%3D144404111197%26itm%3D284981250850%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5PairwiseWebWithBBEV2bAndUBSourceDemotionWithUltimatelyBoughtOfCoviewV1%26brand%3DSupermicro&_trksid=p2047675.c101196.m2219&amdata=cksum%3A28498125085028e63db09b324ae4a36854e8ccbea38d|enc%3AAQAHAAABMIep8YrnpoI5Ip1Fr26ya5Zdwg2V78Yl01uYLsdPZcFTvxKxDts2M2LiSIpUM3yyPCg4I%2FI%2F%2BBr%2B3lbC%2BxYqInYGBmzIxc4EMw3YF0EDxTKyEHLT%2F%2BSMG2X2Go1miFYKtC00MzMQyW9gDfbMtyClMOXZ8xJKGtjoLzUP%2FdiLuNWupvrVbgXCTDewZ4VueuJxRUMMZnXCy%2FDutw%2FxnITm48hlHbLvuMw3l6iBYxzde1cCgdhPRpOr3GLW%2BVqnkBvK2bQ6zIKPiX2RUJokpE%2Fbl83Sl9REJhrS0BYpSBleJScnEzI6pT11MsM153kyy4ma2Rj7Q7cJZh%2BscrwME71FUisxmmg8JNI%2Bwc7NlH8p7l8kzUTYUOCx8vRWWzR%2BuBe7MuZzk1rBbjZsLaRuwoLBA58%3D|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2047675&epid=149985814

    What's the problem?

     

    ► 082 - case, lots of bays, ebay.de, examples

    Well those are from Germany, I'm in the USA.  Also the cheaper one is about 25-35% or so more expensive than my entire budget for the system would be, not counting storage, if I was using it as a backup server.

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > This is how I might have wanted to connect extra drives if I used a
    > SAS HBA with external ports, like tha 9200-16e...

    I'm not sure which picture that is.  Some look as if you're trying to
    create a fire hazard.

     

     

    ► 083 - which pic, 9200-16e

    The picture is below the caption, not above.
    And what would be creating a fire hazard?  The way I'd have the cables set up, or something else?  I don't want to have wasted space in my case that could be taken up with hard drives.  (If it could be as densely packed as a laptop or tablet or phone, that might be nice.  I hate the full tower cases mentioned earlier that only have 2 3.5" bays, that's such a huge waste of space.)

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > [...]
    > But, maybe it's better to have a dual-chamber case

    It's better to get a decent case.  Chenbro really makes great stuff.

     

    ► 084 - decent case, chenbro
    Hmm... I guess I haven't found any decent non-rack / non-server cases though...

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > Sometimes I've had to run drives outside my case as well...

    Ugh.  For testing, ok, but other than that, it's like stiching buttons
    to your cheeks.

     

    ► 085 - testing, stiching buttons,

    Yeah, I was testing stuff that way, doing DBAN, etc, but I wouldn't be comfortable running it that way all the time.

    Also another situation I was testing was...
    (insert, in spoiler, pic of laptop booting from IDE drive, powered from desktop PSU)

    And stitching buttons to WHICH cheeks? The ones on my face, or...

     

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > [...]
    > > Why more than 512?  I wouldn't use that much but it kinda makes
    > > sense to use sector size as orientation.
    > [...]

    > Okay now I see the "compare no further than the first byte that
    > differs"... that's a good idea probably.

    Yes, there's no point in comparing any further.

     

     

    → 086 - comparing after first byte differs

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:


    > [...]
    > Also, some media files might have been en-/trans-coded with
    > different settings, but are ultimately the same thing.

    But the files are different.

    I was planning to make some backups today.  Maybe I can experiment
    with deduplication with btrfs.

     

     

    → 087 - experiment deduplication btrfs

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:


    > In some cases I might have a bunch of different bitrates / codecs of
    > the same thing, and I need to pare some of those down and only keep
    > the max quality / uncompressed one (a "master" so to speak), and
    > maybe a couple lesser bitrate ones probably.

    That'll be a lot of work.

     

    → 088 - (may not reply) "lot of work" different bitrates/codecs of same songs

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > Well I think it's possible that the first 512 or 4096 bytes or
    > whatever might be identical, but somewhere later in the file might
    > not be.

    Yes, it would only serve to be able to say which files are different.

     

     

    → 089 - (may not reply) 512, 4096 bytes, later different, only serve say which different

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:


    > Also I don't really need this to be super fast, as in, finish the
    > entire job in like a half hour or an hour or so.

    But I don't like inefficiency.

     

    ► 090 - don't like inefficiency / don't need super fast

    True, but I also want to make sure I do the job completely.  (I do hope it's not a lot slower than about an hour and a half per TB or so.)

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > I'd be totally fine if it takes several hours or even a full day or
    > two or three to process.  I can just use my laptop in the meantime
    > while my desktop is churning through the data.

    Is your computer so slow that it would be overwhelmed by gathering data
    about a few files?

     

    ► 091 - "so slow, overwhelmed, data few files"

    No, the 5950X isn't that slow, it's just having so many files. 🙂 WinDirStat says there's about 5.77 million "items" on this PC as of a week or two ago, and that's with a "backup" hard drive logically unplugged/unmounted. (By that I mean it's still physically plugged in, but I unassigned its drive letter in Disk Management.)

    This is a short video of scrolling through a little of what WinDirStat found, just scratching the surface...

    (upload "F:\Pics\from Pixel 6a\DCIM ; Camera\2022-11\PXL_20221118_082644231.mp4" to youtube, then link)

    I noticed quite a few folder structures that looked like they could be duplicate hierarchies while looking through that. 002

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > As for where to put the database... I do have about 650 GB of space
    > free on my NVMe boot SSD, maybe the database could hopefully fit in
    > a few hundred GB of that, leaving the HDDs free for doing the main
    > operation of going through their data, etc.

    How many files do you have?  Don't you have mariadb running on your
    server?

     

    ► 092 - how many files, mariadb on server
    About 5.14 million files, and I'm not sure what mariadb is and I'm not running a server for now.

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > As for files of different sizes being identical - of course they
    > wouldn't be "identical" ... but they could have been taken from the
    > same audio, photo or video source, and just be a different
    > resolution or bit rate of the same thing.

    Yes, but why would you keep so many dupes?

     

    ► 093 - why keep so many dupes

    I don't want to keep so many, just a couple, basically the original straight from the camera / recording device, maybe one that was transcoded for editing, and one or two "final" copies for devices, etc.  There's a few I might still have laying around someplace, where I was experimenting with mp3 encoding, and basically had every possible bitrate, sample rate, and a couple other things of one song, while I was testing the lame encoder or something like that, to learn what would be good settings to encode mp3 with.  I remember several years ago I generally found I got better quality results by using about 2 or 3 bins higher bitrate for a given lowpass filter setting than was automatically suggested.

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > [...]
    > Nothing prevents you from making a check sum of all the check sums
    > of all the files in a directory and from comparing those check sums
    > of check sums.
    >
    > Ahh, checksums of checksums... but in my case I also have a bunch of
    > partially duplicate folders, some maybe only 2 or 3 levels deep,
    > some well into the double digits.

    That won't matter because you'd be comparing directories and not
    directory hierarchies.  If you were to comare the heirarchies, what
    are the chances that there would be dupes of folder hierarchies?

     

    ► 094 - dupes of folder hierarchies

    I already know of quite a few, problem is finding them again.  I was working on finding some files earlier, and found the same file in a couple different locations, and I found there were some partial dupes of folder hierarchies.  (But finding them will be a chore, cause I deleted some of the duplicate files and folders, but not all of them and I forget the names of what I had left, also either file explorer crashed or the system needed a reboot so i can't easily find it at the moment.)

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > [...]
    > And there's the issue of the structure, for example,
    > E:\a001\b001\c001\d001 might have a similar structure to
    > H:\a003\b003\c003\d003\e003\f003\g003\h003\i003\j003\k003\l003\m003
    > and so on,

    How's that simialar?

     

     

    ► 095 - folder structure, how's that similar?

    Similar once you go down farther in levels.  The top level of one duplicate of a particular hierarchy might by 3 levels down, while the top level of another duplicate might be 8 levels down from the root folder, and often even on a different drive.  (Maybe even on a different filesystem, but that's less likely.)

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:


    > [...]  (too bad there's multiple reasons why I can't just boot
    > Linux, do cd /, then use a terminal command to recursively list
    > everything then save & upload the resulting txt )

    Why not?  Don't you have an USB stick you can boot from?

     

     

    ► 096 - have usb stick can boot?

    I do have a couple USB sticks, one with a Windows 10 installer and another with multiple Linux ISOs on it, as well as a dead USB stick somewhere and one or two others laying around, one of which i've misplaced so idk where it is.  (Side note, I'd like to see about maybe updating the BIOS on my B550 Taichi motherboard, but I don't have a spare blank USB stick to put the bios file on, unless there's a way to do it without USB....)

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:


    > quick note, speaking of backups... the idea of something like "dd
    > if=// ... " comes to mind,

    No, dd is not for backups.

     

     

    ► 097 - dd not for backups
    Ahh, it's what I'm currently using, as it seems to be the only way I know of to do a full backup of every single sector, and the only one that if I back up an OS drive, I can then plug the clone in and boot from it.  If I plug the original AND clone in simultaneously, I get a signature collision error, which I have to do something to reassign the signature to get the extra drive to come online.  Also a while ago (this one's complicated so I'm gonna leave a lot of stuff out) I'd had an OS clone or two... well one time I had my SSD plugged in, and the clone, hit F11 to pull up the boot manager to boot from the SSD... and it booted from the CLONE, which was a hard disk, instead.

    As for differential or incremental backups, you're right, dd is not the tool for that. 

    Also to me, a full backup wouldn't just restore the files, and also not just the programs, settings, operating systems, it would restore the actual partitions, free space, etc, even to the point of being able to use a tool like TestDisk to recover deleted partitions, if those would have been recoverable from the original media at the time it was backed up. 

    TestDisk is how I restored some partitions from drives the time or two that I accidentally plugged a 4+TB drive into an older controller that maxed out at 2TB support.  I first "dd"-ed the mangled drive to another one of equal or greater size, then I restored to a third drive.  (I think I did notice an issue though, is that the "dd" didn't properly get everything - I was able to restore from the original drive, but trying to restore from the dd'ed clone was corrupted I think, so maybe I need a better tool than "dd"; also it might not be the best tool if the drive is actually failing.)
    Yes, there was at least in one case a couple years or more between when the drive got borked, to when I did the restore, but I made sure to not use the drive at all (left it unplugged) until I was ready to attempt the restore.

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:


    > but if I'm backing up the ENTIRE filesystem including connected and
    > network devices,

    Such devices have their own filesystems.

     

    → 098 - (may not reply) devices, own filesystems, backup entire, connected + network

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > problem is what would I back it up TO, if I'm already specifying to
    > back up not just everything directly connected to that PC, but also
    > everything on the network...

    Why would you do that?

     

    ► 099 - why ... back up everything on pc AND network

    Well for right now I wouldn't do it, it's just a hypothetical idea, but basically back up all PCs, phones, etc in the house, AND back up the backups as well but maybe that last one is getting into some kind of circular / loop concept or something (I forget the proper term for it)

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > (Also in my book, if I'm not including every single bit / sector
    > including boot sectors, landing zones or whatever, normally
    > inaccessible areas, firmware, etc, it's not a complete backup.)

    Maybe you want to use clonezilla to make a clone.  That would be a
    rather unwieldy way of making backups, and you'd be cloning a lot
    every time you don't need to clone.

     

    ► 100 - clonezilla, unweildy, cloning a lot....
    Well I'd only do it once in a while, basically for complete backups.  For differential or incremental backups I'd just need to back up whatever changed, and I'd need to learn how those work and how to implement them.

    A while ago I had thought of maybe having one large hard disk onto which I'd put those diff / incr backups, then when it gets full, pull it and get another one to back up onto the new one.  (And/or, dump the entire contents of the full drive to a cold-storage backup server / NAS, or something like that.)
    I've also heard that some people at least a number of years ago were advocating doing full backups daily, and incremental or differential backups hourly .. but when I have multiple tens of terabytes of total capacity, doing full daily backups would be rather unweildy, both from the time it would take to read from HDDs, and the cost of all that storage.

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > (I'll admit that the thought of just deleting everything has come to
    > my mind more than zero times, but I don't really want to exercise a
    > nuclear option as there are some things I want or need to save.  )

    You can always get your storage server up and running and copy the
    data to it before it's lost, and use deduplication so that the
    required storage space doesn't get out of bounds.  Once you have that,
    you can make a backup and then start to go through all the data and
    delete the stuff you don't need to keep.  Just make a snapshot before
    you start deleting, and you may not even need your backup.

     

     

    ► 101 - storage server up & running, copy data, dedup, backup, go through data & delete, snapshot, etc
    That actually might be a good idea, thing is right now I don't have a place to put a storage server.

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:


    > Also I'm maybe considering getting a couple 2TB or 4TB SSDs (one
    > SATA 2.5", one NVMe M.2) for my laptop, to replace a couple 1TB SSDs
    > so I have more space.

    Why don't you get your storage server up and running and store the
    data there?  Do these laptops even support redundant disks so it's
    possible to store data on them?

     

    ► 102 - storage server up running, laptops support redundant
    I've thought of that, cause it actually in some cases would be nice to have a centralized place to have stuff.  Several times now I've looked for something on the desktop and realized oh, that's on the laptop, or the same thing the other way around.

    From what I understand my laptop supports RAID0 and RAID1, but I'm not using that.  (It may also support RAID5 or RAID10 due to having 4 disks, but I don't think it would work when mixing NVMe with SATA.)

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > [...] I'm just a bit hesitant to pay that much, for example, for a
    > 4TB

    Yeah get your storage server up and running.  Not doing that holds you
    back and makes everything difficult and totally unreliable, makes you
    throw endless amounts of money at buying more storage all the time and
    all you accomplish is that you make the mess worse and uselessly store
    endless amounts of duplicate data.  And you still have no way to
    prevent data loss, like due to disk failures and power surges, and no
    way to make backups.

     

     

    → 103 - (may not reply) get server running, buying storage, endless duplicates, data loss, no backups, etc

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:


    > [...]
    > Also ... I've been thinking a bit recently about getting a couple
    > more SSDs for my laptop,

    How many can you fit into it?

     

     

    ► 104 - how many SSDs can fit into laptop

    My laptop, a Clevo P750DM-G, has two M.2 slots (supports NVMe or SATA) and two 2.5" SATA bays for a total of 4 disks. 

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:


    > either 2TB or 4TB to replace a couple 1TB

    Why don't you keep the data on your storage server?  There's no need
    to have that much storage capacity in a laptop.  Wireguard works fine.

     

    ► 105 - data on storage server instead of "that much" in laptop

    That might be okay when I'm at home, but when I'm out somewhere for a weekend or longer, I want some things accessible locally.

    Sometimes, for example, I've been in places where there's absolutely no internet connection, so there's no way I could access stuff from home.
    And even if I did have a connection, my home internet has a bandwidth cap of 1 TB / month, and a max upload speed of about 10 Mbps, making it unusable for hosting a remote storage server.  (FIber isn't available here.)
    I'm considering moving to near Provo, Utah sometime for a possible training / job opportunity (not involving PC / tech), and I'm thinking for the first few months or so I might have a more temporary living situation, so I'd probably only bring my laptop with me.  (Right now I'm near San Diego, CA.)  Once I'm more settled into more permanent housing (whether in Utah or somewhere else), THEN I'd want to set up a storage server, and go get my desktop PC and other furniture (and a couple acoustic upright pianos I have) from California.

    (I'm not sure at what point it would be called "permanent" housing... my concept / experience might be a bit skewed, cause so far I've lived my entire life in the same house.)

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > Looking at pcpartpicker prices.... [...]

    Stop buying any more storage before you got your storage server up and running.

     

    ► 106 - don't buy storage before server up

    If only I had a place to put it.... I may end up having to move to my own place THEN set one up.

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > I've also wanted to compare the speed of some old HDDs vs current
    > ones and SSDs -- but not in terms of MB/s transfer rates, I'm
    > thinking more like "How long does it take to fill the entire disk if
    > you're constantly writing to it".

    Why?  Put your old disks into your backup server and make backups on
    them, then you'll know how fast you can write to them.

     

     

    ► 107 - how long to fill disk, put in backup server, know how fast to write to them

    Why? well I have a feeling that older disks were "faster" in that way than modern ones and I wanted to find out if it's true.

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     

    > I wanted to buy a couple old <80MB PATA HDDs on ebay,

    Stop buying any more storage before you got your storage server up and
    running.

    PATA?  Wasn't that the predecessor of IDE?  I may have had a 386DX16
    that had one.  60MB was kinda huge ...

     

    ► 108 - PATA / predecessor of IDE
    PATA was what IDE was renamed to.  (Also I've heard that SATA is "technically", in a way, IDE, which means Integrated Drive Electronics if I remember.

    I think you're thinking of MFM / RLL, or ST-506 / ST-412 interface.  With those, there were two ribbon cables, one for control, one for data, and the controller was a separate expansion card.  When IDE came along (later called Parallel Advanced Technology Attachment, if I remember right), then later SATA, the controllers are those boards that are attached to the drive, I believe.

    The old drives had boards too, but I think they were more dumb.  Those were the days in the 1980s when you had to manually configure sectors, interleave, cylinders, heads, write precompensation, landing zone, etc, and do low-level formatting before you did the actual filesystem formatting.  I never had personal experience working with them, as I was born in 1981, but I did use a computer with one of those drives in it.

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > (I'm thinking that some of the older/smaller drives, like 40MB or
    > 20MB, or if anyone has 10MB or 5MB MFM drives laying around and a
    > working system capable of interfacing with them, could fill the
    > entire drive in maybe half a minute to a few minutes or so,

    You probably mean hours and days, not minutes.

     

     

    ► 109 - meant hours/days not minutes, fill small drive in a few minutes

    I did mean minutes. 🙂
    It took me about 11 or so minutes to fill an 8.4GB hard drive from 1998 a few years ago.
    Also there's a Tom's Hardware article on "
    15 Years Of Hard Drive History: Capacities Outran Performance" from November 2006 - the page I linked was "Time Required To Write A Full Platter".  The largest drive they tested at the time was a 750GB SATA drive, and it took 52 minutes to read 200GB, or ~27% of the capacity.  Compare that to the 37 seconds it took to read 26 MB of a 40 MB IDE drive, or 65% of the capacity.  (Extrapolating, I'm guessing it would have taken about 3 hours 17 minutes to read the entire 750 GB drive, vs about 57 seconds for the entire 40 MB drive.)

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > [...]
    > Maybe instead of me buying the drives, maybe someone else already
    > has a system with drives like that, or better yet, something that
    > supports MFM drives and has some of the early 5 or 10 MB drives.

    Oh those are very rare ...

     

    ► 110 - old MFM, very rare

    I've seen them for sale on ebay sometimes, but I don't have a system to put them in or the expertise to format / test them.  I've seen people on other forums geared toward more retro tech mention having them, but I don't have user accounts on some of those places (and part of my clutter includes already having too many user accounts lol.)  I have seen some retro tech youtubers with those though, maybe I should ask there sometime.

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:

     


    > I wonder how quickly those could be written or read...

    You could probably dig up some old benchmarks or something.  You're
    gona like this, for example:


    1 5 2 8 - 1 5    MICROPOLIS
    NO MORE PRODUCED                                      Native³  Translation
                                  ÄÄÄÄÄÄÅÄÄÄÄÄÂÄÄÄÄÄÂÄÄÄÄÄ
    Form                 5.25"/FH              Cylinders    2100³     ³     ³
    Capacity form/unform  1346/ 1535 MB        Heads          15³     ³     ³
    Seek time í / track  14.5/ 4.0 ms          Sector/track   84³     ³     ³
    Controller           SCSI2 SINGLE-ENDED    Precompensation
    Cache/Buffer           256 KB DUAL-PORTED  Landing Zone
    Data transfer rate    2.916 MB/S int       Bytes/Sector      512
                  4.800 MB/S ext SYNC
    Recording method     RLL                            operating  ³ non-operating
                              ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÅÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ
    Supply voltage     5/12 V       Temperature øC         5ö50    ³    -40ö65
    Power: sleep              W     Humidity     %        10ö90    ³     10ö90
           standby       25.0 W     Altitude    km    -0.061ö 3.048³ -0.305ö15.240
           idle               W     Shock        g         2       ³     20
           seek          30.0 W     Rotation   RPM      3600
           read/write         W     Acoustic   dBA        43
           spin-up            W     ECC        Bit   48
                    MTBF         h     150000
                    Warranty Month        60
    Lift/Lock/Park     YES          Certificates


    That was actually a really good drive.  IIRC it was more like 2MB/s,
    and the power consumption was hilarious 🙂 (You realize that 5.25" is
    really 5.25" and not half that like everyone thinks?)  Wow that was
    one heavy disk ...  I liked it a lot, it made such a trustworthy heavy
    tock tock tock sound when it was doing something that you always knew
    when your computer was working.  I mean /working/, you know ...

    Oh, look at that: I just noticed it had a 5 year warranty.  Not
    surprising, it really was a tank.

     

     

    ► 111 - Micropolis SCSI 1.5GB, 2MB/s 5.25" drive, etc

    Ahh I think I've seen some kind of site similar to that with old drive benchmarks and things, I think stason.org or something like that.

    If that 1346MB drive transferred data at 2 MB/s, then the drive could theoretically fill in 11 minutes 13 seconds.

    I looked on that site for some smaller drives, and saw several interesting ones, including the 5MB Fujitsu M2231AS and Seagate ST406 (I didn't see the ST506 on the site), the 10MB IBM WD 12, Seagate ST412 and Tandon TM252, which have an internal transfer rate of 0.625 MB/s.  Then there's the 21MB Seagate ST325A/X, rated for 1.5MB/s in AT mode and 1.75MB/s in XT mode, and the 42MB Quantum Prodrive ELS 42 AT at 2.5 MB/s.  Even if their actual transfer rates are slower, like in your 2MB/s vs 2.916MB/s example, it looks like they would theoretically transfer the entire capacity in about half a minute or less

     

     

     

    On 11/12/2022 at 7:05 AM, heimdali said:


    > I hear the ST-506 MFM interface supported up to 5 Mb/s, not sure if

    Does that seem realistic?

     

     

     

     

    ► 112 - ST-506 MFM, 5Mb/s, realistic?

    Well, it may not quite reach that high in the real world, but I did see a few youtube videos (01, 02, 03, 04) that included benchmark results from some older MFM and IDE hard drives.  Some of them might have only transferred data at like 300-500 KB/s, but with small capacities like 20 or 40 MB it would still transfer the entire capacity in about a minute or two.

     

     

     

     

     

  17. Hi ...

     

     

    TL;DR: Undecided on whether to upgrade GPU from 1060 3GB.  Don't play much newer games (other than considering MSFS, and having a 4K monitor, most I play would run mostly fine on an older iGPU).  BUT, interested in video editing, for example hoping for a massive speedup in transcoding (compared to my 4790K taking 4 days to transcode a 4-minute 30fps 4K video to H.265, at least realtime or faster would be nice if possible.)  Not planning to break bank, power supply / circuit breakers, or case compatibility / block motherboard ports if I do upgrade.)

     

    EDIT: Added a 2-part poll.  First part is whether to get one a GPU now or later, second part, if now, is which one do you suggest.

     

    I've been running a GTX 1060 3GB for a while, and trying to decide if I should upgrade now (Black Friday weekend), soon (maybe wait for the RTX 4060/4070 or RX 7600/7700/7800), or wait a while (maybe another 2 or 3 generations).

     

    Hold up, before you holler and say "you should have upgraded half a decade ago!"...

     

    Most of the games I play aren't all that demanding, and a lot of them could probably run "good enough" (for me at least) on older (Haswell, i7-4790K) Intel Integrated graphics, at least at 1080p.  (Here's my steam profile's games, sorted by playtime, for example, and my wishlist, sorted alphabetically, although nothing's been added in probably a couple years except MSFS which I just added.)

     

    My current system is AMD (5950X), not Intel, with 128GB RAM (running at DDR4-3466 CL18 cause 3533 isn't quite stable and 3600 won't boot), an ASRock B550 Taichi, Arctic Liquid Freezer II 360, booting Windows 10 Pro from a 1TB PCIe 3.0 (carried over from a previous system that didn't support 4.0) x4 NVMe SSD (Silicon Power P34A80), several 10s of TB of HDD capacity, Fractal Define R5 case (all 8 3.5" bays used so absolute max GPU length <310mm, prefer <~230mm to not block headers, SATA ports, etc), Corsair RM850 PSU, the aforementioned 1060 3GB GPU, and a 4K 60Hz monitor (Asus VG289Q).

     

    A few games I enjoyed playing back in the day when I was more into gaming included Fortress Forever (Source engine, but not nearly as demanding as TF2 or CS:GO - for example I'd get about 2x the FPS or so on Core 2 Duo era integrated graphics in FF vs TF2) Team Fortress Classic (GoldSrc / Half Life 1 engine), Total Annihilation, Descent, Castle of the Winds, Commander Keen, Captain Comic, Sopwith 2, Battlechess, Alleycat, Need For Speed (original and Hot Pursuit from the 90s or so), Test Drive 4, Whiplash (Fatal Racing in some other countries), and a bunch of others.  I sometimes wonder if there are more modern games similar to those and others, with similar gameplay, storylines, etc, and updated graphics? 🙂

     

     

     

    I'm not much into the newer games, as I said.  For example, I tried a little bit of Witcher 3, GTA V and Rise of the Tomb Raider, but didn't really get too much into them.  (I wanted to do some free-map exploring and track races in GTA V, for example, but I couldn't figure out how to get to that section and avoid doing the story.)  Also I have a copy of Overwatch (1, not 2), but have never even installed it, nevermind played it.  Fortnite and a couple other games look interesting, but I don't think I'd have much time to learn to play them or get very involved.  (I think a lot of modern games are very different, in their gameplay, controls, physics, etc, than the games I got used to playing in the late 1990s to early 2000s or so.)

     

    Interesting thing with GTA V... if I crank up the settings to the absolute max at 1920x1080 (including going to the advanced graphics menu and cranking up frame scaling to 2.5x, resulting in the game wanting ~9GB VRAM), my GTX 1060 3GB absolutely tanks in performance.
    Normally, with standard 1080p high/ultra settings (but without cranking up frame scaling), the 1060 3GB gets about 50-60 fps, my laptop's GTX 970M 6GB gets around 30 fps, and my older Intel HD 4600 got about 3 fps or so, in the built-in benchmark, at least near the beginning when you're flying in toward the houses.
    But, when cranking up everything including frame scaling, the 1060 3GB would get about 0.3 fps, the GTX 970M 6GB around 6 fps or so, and the HD 4600 about 1.8 fps.  I wonder why the integrated Intel GPU would soundly beat the 1060 in that scenario.... yes, I know 1.8 fps is not remotely playable.... although another interesting thing, at 1080p ultra on Intel iGPU in Witcher 3, running at 3 fps, the actual time of the game slowed way down, and I actually had time to react to things happening.
    I haven't tried it on the 4K monitor yet though.  (All I know is it would call for a bit over 25GB VRAM with everything maxed, idk why not 36GB but I'm guessing I may have hit a texture size limit or something, idk.  Don't currently have it installed (or feel like installing) on the 5950X PC to check 1440p.)


    From what I see of Cyberpunk on streams or videos, I don't think I'd get into that game at all, so I wouldn't need to worry about whether my PC could run that one.


    Flight Simulator (2020) does look interesting, but idk if I'd have time to get much involved with it.  (And I'm guessing it's very different in terms of controls, gameplay, than the versions of MSFS in the late '80s or early '90s or so, which I've long since forgotten how to play and didn't get very far in anyway.)


     

     

     

    So, I'm not much into the more demanding games these days, at least for now (unless something comes out that I might end up enjoying, but I'm not currently watching the rumor mill like a hawk lol)...
     

     


    But....  I would be interested in doing some video editing and transcoding, especially 4K.  My current camera is a Panasonic FZ1000 which I've had since about 2015.  Someday I'd like to upgrade to something with generally better image/video quality, dynamic range, high ISO, interchangeable lenses, but I'm not planning to do that yet.  (If I had the $ and was upgrading now, the Sony A7s III or similar would be on my shortlist.)  I'd stick with just 4K for the time being, as I feel if I went to 8K in the next few years my system wouldn't really be able to handle it well at all.  (I was a bit early on adopting 4K, seeing as how my 4790K buckled when trying to work with it.  And I would consider skipping over 8K completely anyway, it wouldn't be unheard of for me to skip things like that.  My previous camera before the 4K FZ1000 maxed out at 480p, so I skipped over 720p and 1080p, not counting my cell phones.)

     

     

    As for software I'd be using, I'm not totally sure, other than probably Handbrake, maybe occasionally AviDemux but I've kinda outgrown that one, Davinci Resolve (the free version) which I need to learn more when I have time, and idk what else, maybe Blender, Shotcut, or some Linux / FOSS editors, idk.  I don't plan on using anything by Adobe (like Creative Cloud), as I don't plan on buying time-based software licenses.

     

    Some time ago on my 4790K setup (but without the 1060) I did a couple tests with encoding, one each with video and audio.  Both were generally at "max settings", like q=0, placebo, all keyframes, etc.
    In Handbrake, transcoding a 4-minute video from the camera (4K, H.264, 100Mbps, 30fps) to 4K HEVC (H.265), in one test it took about 4 days to transcode that 4-minute video, or about 1/1440th realtime.
    Using LAME to transcode some CD-quality wave files to 320kbps mp3 took about 2 minutes to transcode 2 hours, or 60X realtime.

     

    It would be nice to be able to to the video encoding as fast as the 4790K was doing the audio encoding, but I have a feeling even the RTX 4090 couldn't do that, and its MSRP is like 5X my budget and TDP is like 3X my preference anyway. 😛

     

     

    I'm located in southern California, east of San Diego, about an hour and 45 minutes or so from Micro Center, and I'd of course consider buying online as well.  I strongly prefer not buying a used card though, as I would want a warranty in case something goes wrong, and also power efficiency is important to me (want to try to avoid prev-gen cards) as electricity can be upwards of ~40-65¢/kWh, possibly more since that rate was a few years ago.

  18. Okay so this is super annoying ... I've been editing this (in the drafts section) and at least a few times now I've gotten most of the way through, then made a mistake and hit Ctrl+Z to undo ... and it didn't just undo that last little mistake I did, it undid almost EVERYTHING I'd been working on. 😞

    Also some of my replies to various points were getting pretty long.  I left them in spoilers in case you want to see more details, but I put some condensed comments outside the spoilers.  (There may be a couple other things in spoilers that are pointed out, those were originally going to be in spoilers anyway even if I didn't put the other things in spoilers.)

     

    For now, re: the original post topic ... I think I'll get a couple 18TB WD Ultrastar HC550 (0F38459 / WUH721818ALE6L4) drives, they're available from B&H for $320 each.  (I was also considering 20TB WD Ultrastar HC560 (0F38785 / WUH722020BLE6L4) for $380 each from Newegg, but that's a pretty big jump in price for just an extra 2 TB, so I think I'll go for the 18TB drives.)  I just need to order soon, as they do Sabbath there (they're Jewish) and their checkout is closed from Friday sunset to Saturday sunset NYC time.

    Update: Ordered 2x 18TB 0F38459 from B&H earlier today (a few hours before sunset in NYC), hopefully they'll be here next Wednesday (16th).

     

     

     

    On 11/6/2022 at 3:28 PM, heimdali said:

    Yes, that's called fake raid.  When you use that and your mainboard fails, you will have to find one that can read the disks, so using fake raid isn't an option.

    Ahh.  (And I'm guessing real raid would be with a hardware card like an LSI 9211-8i or similar?  I've thought in the past about getting one, or a 9200-16e or, if I found a good deal on one, a Highpoint Rocket 750 so I could add more drives, but then my problems would be not enough SATA connectors on my Corsair RM850 PSU or 3.5" bays in my Fractal Define R5 case.)
     

     

     

    On 11/6/2022 at 3:28 PM, heimdali said:

    It's also not an option to store data on only a single disk.  When the disk fails, you may loose your data, and it's a big hassle.

    Yeah... I plan to buy two disks of the same size, one will be for the data and the other will be for the backup.  But, I'm a bit wary of "fake raid" so I guess I won't be running RAID1, which, among other things, eliminates Seagate drives from my shortlist.  I'd want some kind of setup that is platform, OS, cotnroller, etc. agnostic, so no matter what I plug it into, I'd be able to read it, unless of course the specific drive itself had died.

     

     

     

    On 11/6/2022 at 3:28 PM, heimdali said:

    You really need to use redundancy for your active disks.  I also recommend it for backups, but when one of the backups fails, you can make a new one and it's not too much hassle since you have to make backups anyway if you have at least the minimum of 2 generations of backups. Hard disks are anything but cheap 😞  If you have the disks, there's no reason not to use redundancy for backups as well.

    Ah, would redundancy be RAID1, or something else?  (Also my system as-is only supports 8 3.5" drives, which I'd prefer to all be available for storage.)
    "HDDs aren't cheap"... true 😄 I remember when tape was a tiny fraction of the cost per capacity compared to HDDs, for example in 1994.  I was wanting to see a backup solution today that has a similar price ratio.  (See the spoiler for more details, but you would be able to get a 16TB tape for ~$21, or a 128TB tape for ~$63, and the tape drive would be about 1/2 to 2/3 the cost of a similar-size HDD.)

    Spoiler

    Hmm ... "redunancy for active disks" ... wouldn't that require RAID1, or is there another way?  (And while my case+mobo+PSU does support 8 3.5" devices, I'd prefer them to be all available for storage and not have to lose some to redunancy, etc, and even then I'd probably be running out of bays/ports.  Also what about some of the pitfalls of, say, fake raid....)


    "Hard disks are anything but cheap" Tell me about it 😄 Actually I was looking at the cost of backup media vs HDDs in an old magazine ad I have from Q1 1994, and...  A 250MB HDD was $215, 215MB tape drive was $145, and 215MB tape media was $20.  A 2.1GB HDD (SCSI, though), was $1850, a 2.3GB tape drive was $925, and 2GB tape media was $59. 
    Today, there's a 16TB Toshiba MG08 HDD for $230 from a 3rd-party Amazon seller.
    Calculating similar ratios, etc, if tape backup was available today like that, I'd be able to get a 16TB tape drive for $155.12 and a 16TB tape media for $21.40.  Or, there would be a 134.4 TB SAS (that's the successor to SCSI, right?) HDD for $1970.07, a 147.2 TB tape drive for $989.53, and 128 TB tape media for $63.12.  (It would be nice to be able to have backup media for which I could fit several HDDs worth onto a single backup.)
    Yes, I know tape is very slow for random access (I imagine it basically making a HDD look like an NVMe SSD), but it would primarily be for full backups and restores.  (And one idea I've had would be to have some kind of secondary SATA SSD or flash drive or something that just stores the data of where things are on the tape, and maybe short previews of things, for example the first couple pages of text files, several second short clips at 24 kbps 11kHz mono for audio or 240p 15fps q=28 or so for video, and you'd use that to find what you're looking for, queue up everything you wanted to restore, THEN hit "go" and it would arrange the queue sequentially then go through and pull everything off the tape.  On the other end of the slow vs fast spectrum ... I wonder if we'll ever see HDD duplicators that can duplicate HDDs as fast as commercial optical disk stamping machines can duplicate CDs/DVDs/Blu-Ray...)
     

    1667726345_ECmoCKzVAAElnk--SGComputersJan1994highlighthddvstape.thumb.jpg.df2a9664ce43f5d109e9fced5a0ab38f.jpg

     

     

     
    On 11/6/2022 at 3:28 PM, heimdali said:

    I have to order everthing online; there's no place around that would have anything I would use on stock.  Also, they removed all parking, so the only thing you can still get is groceries from the supermarkets that have parking.  At the same time, they're complaining that the cities are empty ... What do they expect ...  It's funny, a while ago cities used walls to prevent ppl from going there; nowadays they have all parking removed and nobody even wants to go there anymore.

    Ahh.  Well my local Fry's went out, and now pretty much all we have is Best Buy and WalMart.  If I want an actual computer store I have to go to Micro Center about an hour and a half away, and I usually only go there if I'm planning to get multiple things, or if I'm going to be in the area for something else anyway.  (At least it's on the side of Los Angeles area closer to me, so I don't have to deal with as much traffic as if I had to completely go through L.A.)

     

     

     
    On 11/6/2022 at 3:28 PM, heimdali said:

    Besides, I remember times when there were interesting stores in town with stuff I might actually buy.  Those started disappearing when they started to force customers to walk for miles by closing the roads and removing parking, and since decades, there's no reason to go there anymore.  If I couldn't order online, it would be like in the stone age ...

    I remember those times too, although in my case I think it was all the online ordering and things that eventually shut them down.  But, there were times when my brother said you could stand on some street corners in the area where most of those stores were, start throwing stones, and probably hit like 8 or 10 computer stores.

    In the spoiler are some links to photo albums of old magazine ads from various stores we had in the San Diego, CA area, from 1990 to 2007.  (I have quite a few more magazines still in my paper-and-ink collection, but am missing a few; I remember having some as old as 1987.)

    Spoiler

    The cat on the laptop pic at the end of some albums is just a placeholder, or to remind myself that I've reached the end of the album.

    ComputorEdge - 1990-12-07
    ComputorEdge - 1993-03-19
    ComputorEdge - 1994-01-07 (this one has the HDD vs tape ad near the end.)
    ComputorEdge - 1995-01-13
    ComputorEdge - 1995-11-24
    ComputorEdge - 1997-02-07
    ComputorEdge - 1998-01-16
    ComputorEdge - 1999-01-01
    ComputorEdge - 2000-01-07
    ComputorEdge - 2001-03-09
    ComputorEdge - 2002-03-08
    ComputorEdge - 2003-03-14
    ComputorEdge - 2004-08-13
    ComputorEdge - 2005-09-02
    ComputorEdge - 2006-09-15
    ComputorEdge - 2007-09-21

    ComputorEdge - assorted)  (doesn't quite fit into the other categories, etc)
    Articles - ComputorEdge
    Articles - Computer Resource  (This was a competing magazine for a while.  Also there was a "Computer Link" that was an insert in the local San Diego Union Tribune paper for a while, but idk if I still have any of those.)

    Also I'll include an album of purchase invoices we've saved.  (I removed personal info before posting.)  This includes the first PC my dad ever bought, a 286-10, 640k RAM, EGA graphics, 40MB HDD, etc, for around $1800 in January 1989.  I cut my computing teeth on that PC at home, although maybe a year or two (not before Q3-1986 cause that's when I started kindergarten / school) before that my parents would take me to a home education center where they had Apple computers, not sure what model they would have been though.


     

     

    On 11/6/2022 at 3:28 PM, heimdali said:

    I have no idea ... it didn't occur to me that anyone wouldn't order them online but actually go to all the lengths of going to a store.  ... I'm really surprised that you would go to a store for some hard disks.  Your overall situation must be way better than it's here that you can afford to waste the fuel on that.

    Ah.  As I said / hinted earlier, I typically order online, but might go to a store in certain situations.  (I used to only buy at stores though, cause I was afraid of damage in shipping, but I guess me driving home with the HDDs isn't that big of a difference or might even be worse considering i'm not exactly a slow driver.)

     

     

     

     

    On 11/6/2022 at 3:28 PM, heimdali said:

    I might be a good idea to do that.

    I've thought about it, but right now I don't have any physical place to put a server, never mind any kind of rack cabinet or anything like that.

    (Also when I was considering building a NAS / backup server, one of my criteria was having the entire cost of the setup, not counting the storage, be less than the cost of a single HDD.)

     

     

     

    On 11/6/2022 at 3:28 PM, heimdali said:

    You have way more capacity then I do and kept your data since the 80ies, so of course you do qualify.

    I thought I had to have never deleted anything, AND have more storage drives / capacity than a mere mortal's peasant dual-socket 11-PCIE-slot-filled-with-HBAs motherboard could support in order to be a "data hoarder" 😄

    Spoiler

    I thought to qualify for "data hoarder" I had to have never deleted anything, ever (I have deleted some things), and I had to have more capacity than any system available for purchase (either complete system, or parts) could support.
    (For example, let's say I got one of those dual-socket Supermicro motherboards with 11 PCIe slots, and put a Highpoint Rocket 750 in each slot.  Each of those cards supports 40 drives, times 11 is 440 drives, times 22 TB per drive (I'm ignoring the WD 26TB host-managed SMR drive) would be 9.68 PB on that system.  That doesn't account for on-motherboard ports, or using bifurcation / splitters to, for example, plug 8 PCIe 2.0 x8 cards into a single PCIe 4.0 x16 slot, or whatever would be the eqiuvalent bandwidth.  A data hoarder, I thought, would have more than that 😄)

     

     

     

     

    On 11/6/2022 at 3:28 PM, heimdali said:

    It is out of the question to store data on only a single disk without redundancy.  Backups are not a substitute for redundancy, and redundancy is not a substitute for backups.  Redundancy requires to buy disks at least in pairs; how else would you have redundancy?

    Ah, I do plan to buy two disks, but idk how I'd set up real-time redunancy if I won't be running somehting like RAID1.  (What I've done so far is have one disk of each set of 2 be my data, then the 2nd has stuff manually copied to it then it's unplugged for a while until I need to update or restore, and I'm way behind on updating.)

     

     

     

    On 11/6/2022 at 3:28 PM, heimdali said:

    Using a warranty usually would require that you return your disk to someone.  There is no way that I would give my data out of hands.  Other than that, it doesn't matter here, there are legal requirements so you do have a warranty unless you buy from a private seller who has taken precautions.  I don't know how it's in California.

    True ... but how else would I deal with a failed drive if I wanted to replace it without having to buy another one.  Yes, there's the issue of the data on it, but that's what backups are for.  (Backups, however, won't save you the cost of a new HDD when you need to replace one that died prematurely, afaik.)
    I'm pretty sure warranties don't apply buying used parts from private sellers.  Also I've heard that they may not apply when buying refurb parts from non-authorised sellers (in those cases the sellers are supposed to provide the warranty, same if you bought a complete system with a drive inside it from a retailer).

     

     

     

    On 11/6/2022 at 3:28 PM, heimdali said:

    What I meant is that if I were to buy 16TB hard drives, I'd have to buy at least two of them and that would cost me over EUR 1000.  Discs always come at least in pairs.

    Ahh, one for data, one for backup basically.  "Discs always come at least in pairs" ... maybe it translates to English a bit different han whatever your native language is, but to me, what I imagine is that it's not possible to buy one disk at a time.  In reality though, at least here, you CAN buy one disk at a time if you want to, but it's much more advisable to buy two.

     

     

     

    On 11/6/2022 at 3:28 PM, heimdali said:

    You can always check with hdparm.  Especially for the so-called green ones I'd expect them to go to sleep all the time because the idea of the so-called green ones is saving energy.

    Ahh... but ...
     

    Microsoft Windows [Version 10.0.19044.2130]
    (c) Microsoft Corporation. All rights reserved.


    C:\Windows\system32>hdparm
    'hdparm' is not recognized as an internal or external command,
    operable program or batch file.


    C:\Windows\system32>


    Apparently hdparm isn't on here, and idk if it's available.  (Also I don't think the drives I'm running now, or ones I plan to get, are the "green" ones, afaik.)

     

     

     

    On 11/6/2022 at 3:28 PM, heimdali said:

    Perhaps you have multiple issues, and it's possible that you need to update the firmware of your disks.

    I wonder if other things could possible be causing issues.  I just hope I don't have to rip my entire system apart, I really don't want to do that until I upgrade to a new socket / RAM generation and I might skip DDR5 entirely or at minimum go to something that supports RDIMMs and 128 PCIe lanes if/when I could afford it, which won't be for a while.

    Spoiler

    Maybe; although idk if firmware updates are available or not, haven't checked (and I've never updated firmware on a HDD anyway that I can remember).

    I'm not 100% sure if it's the disks, cause other things also act up around the same time.  (I hope it's not something related to the CPU not quite properly being seated in the socket, or some short between the motherboard and case or something, but I wonder if it could be .... I'd think there'd be a lot more issues, and a lot more frequent, if that was the case though.  And I really don't want to rip my system apart until I'm doing a significant platform upgrade, like SP5, or even a DDR6 or DDR7 version of that.  (Going from AM4 to AM5 or LGA 1700 is too small of a bump for me.)  While I'm sure some people can take apart and rebuild an entire system in maybe a half hour or so, it takes me probably a full day, and don't even get me started on configuring my OS, software, etc. the way I want it, or the way I had it before.)

     

     

     

    On 11/6/2022 at 3:28 PM, heimdali said:

    So is there a firmware update for those, or is there anything else special about them?  Maybe broken cables?

    I'm not sure about firmware updates.  As for broken cables, I believe the ones I'm using are fine, although I also have some other SATA cables that have been slightly modified with the aid of my cat's teeth, one had its retention clip broken off, etc.

    Spoiler

    As for broken cables, I believe the cables I'm using now are fine, although I do have a couple of other cables that have teeth marks from my cat, and maybe even one or two SATA connectors on the end chewed up pretty good.  (I don't think I'm using one of those right now, although it's possible I could be using one that originally had one of the spring clip retention mechanisms that had broken off, I don't remember though and don't feel like pulling my tower out of the desk cubbyhole just yet.  I'll need to pull it out to swap the drives when I get them, but I'll be doing that then.)

     

     

     

    On 11/6/2022 at 3:28 PM, heimdali said:

    It depends ...  Unfortunately, ZFS isn't compatible with Linux only for stupid licensing issues (you can get it to work, but that isn't a good option), so you'd have to go with FreeBSD, but the NFS implementation of FreeBSD sucks and makes that unusable for a file server.  Then you may not be too happy with the performance of ZFS, unless perhaps you start tweaking it and using SSD cache.  Tweaking it entails the risk of messing things up and/or loosing data --- or maybe not but it's a hassle.  Also, the SSD is prone to wearing out when you use it for cache.  And/or you're going to need lots of RAM, but you can't exacly cache in RAM because when the power goes out, the contents of the RAM are lost.  So ZFS has good features but I'm not happy with it.

     

    And I have to kinda correct my last post.  Btrfs doesn't really support deduplication in that you can deduplicate it only afterwards and not while writing.  I thought it could do that.  That makes the possibility of deduplication pretty useless for backups because it requires that all the data fits on the volume, and if it fits anyway, there's no need to deduplicate it.  For non-backups, I wouldn't trust it enough not to mess up my data.  I was really disappointed.

     

    But then, there's something that's called VDO.  Apparently you create a VDO volume and put any file system on it and VDO can deduplicate it.  I need to learn more about it, it would be great if I could use that.  See https://access.redhat.com/documentation/en-us/red_hat_enterprise_linux/8/html/deduplicating_and_compressing_storage/deploying-vdo_deduplicating-and-compressing-storage#doc-wrapper for more.

    I've never used ZFS.  Had considered it for NAS/backup server, but would lean more toward UNRAID or similar.  (I like how it lets you add drives one at a time, and if > parity fails you only lose the data on the extra failed drives, not the entire array.  Single-drive performance is good enough, if I need more I'll use an SSD.)  Also I'm not familiar with BTRFS or VDO either.

     

    Dedup/backup ... A while ago I was wanting to back up a bunch of SSDs to a 12TB HDD.  If I didn't use compression I could just "dd" to a disk image and they'd still all fit for now, but... (see in the spoiler).

    Spoiler

    Ahh, I have no experience with ZFS.  I had been thinking of using it for a NAS / backup server, but have been leaning more toward something like UNRAID if I was to spin one up.  (Something that appeals to me with UNRAID is that you can add disks one at a time, and if you lose more disks than you have parity / redundancy, you only lose the data on those disks, not the entire array.  I don't need the extra performance - single-drive performance is good enough for me, if I need more performance for something I'll just use an SSD.)

    Also I'm not familiiar at all with BTRFS, or with VDO.

    Deduplication....backups ... reminds me of something I was trying to do a while ago, but for now have hit the pause button.
    I bought a 12TB Toshiba MG07ACA12TE drive specifically for the purpose of backing up the SSDs I have.  All of my current SSDs (although I'm thinking of buying a couple more maybe) will fit on those 12TB drives without compression.
    Anyway, I could "dd" (in Linux) the SSDs to image files on the HDD, and if I do that (with no compression like gzip or whatever), I can easily open the image files and see the file / folder structure within.
    BUT ... when I tried to "dd" AND gzip the "dd" image (or something, it's been several months or a year and I forget now how I did it), then try to open the image, it insists on trying to decompress the ENTIRE thing to RAM or whatever.  I was doing my initial test on a 240GB SSD (which was about half full; the uncompressed "dd" image took up a full 240 GB whereas the compressed image (tar.gz, or .gz) is about 61 GB), but I also have a couple 2 TB SSDs I'd want to back up as well, preferably compressed, and I don't have 2+ TB of RAM (or want to take the time) to decompress the image file before I can access its contents.

     

     

     

     

    On 11/6/2022 at 3:28 PM, heimdali said:

    How well did that work?  From what I've been seeing, I have a theory that these consumer mainboards aren't able to handle a bunch of disks connected to them very well.  It's like the board is overwhelmed with all the data going through it when data is being written to or read from all the disks in the RAID at the same time.  It just slows everything down.  Some people claimed that newer boards would handle better, but I doubt it.  The data still needs to get through somehow.

    Haha 😄 Not well 😛 A couple years ago or so I was DBANning probably 14 HDDs simultaneously, and ... the total bandwidth was 1 GB/s, and a couple drives that on their own were capable of >200 MB/s transfer were throttling to ~40-50MB/s transfer.  (No SSDs were involved but I've heard DBAN isn't advised for them anyway.)

    Spoiler

    HAH 😄 .... not well 😛 ...  The board I was using at the time was an ASRock Z97 Extreme6.
    There was a time I had possibly 14 drives plugged in, as I was DBANning a bunch of older drives in preparation for donating them to a local recycler / charity (which gives refurbished PCs, etc, to less fortunate people, for example).  The largest drives I had plugged in were 5TB HGST Deskstar NAS drives, and the smallest were probably some double-digit GB PATA drives.
    Anyway, the 5TB and 4TB drives were capable on their own of sustaining around 200+ MB/s sequential transfer, but when I was running DBAN on them, some were throttling to around 40-50 MB/s or so.  I noticed the total bandwidth running DBAN on all 14 drives was 1 GB/s, which happens to be the bandwidth of the DMI (if I remember the term) between the CPU and the motherboard expansion / ports, not counting the primary graphics.  (I think it was either PCIe 3.0 x2 or 2.0 x4, I forget, which is I think 1 GB/s.)
    As for how I had 14 drives connected ... 10 of them were plugged into the motherboard's built-in SATA ports, then 2 more SATA drives (< 2 TB) were plugged into a ByteCC / JMicron BT-PESAPA card, and 2 PATA drives were plugged into that card's PATA port.  (I also had a Promise Ultra100 TX2 controller, with an extra 2 IDE ports for 4 IDE drives, but it's PCI and that board didn't have any legacy PCI slots.)
    I imagine my ASRock B550 Taichi might have a bit more DMI (or whatever it's called) bandwidth, maybe PCIe 4.0 x4 or 3.0 x8 but I forget, so it might do better with HDDs connected.  (One factor that made me choose it was the factor that I can have all 8 SATA ports and both M.2 slots populated simultaneously without having ports disabled.  I think it might cut one of the PCIe slots bandwidth in half if I have everything populated, but idk if I'll use that slot unless I plug in at least two SAS/SATA HBAs.)

     

     

     

     

    On 11/6/2022 at 3:28 PM, heimdali said:

    Older cards were limited to 2TB.  That was a hardware limitation.  In their time, disks weren't larger than that, so the cards didn't need to be able to handle them.

    Ahh, I guess the BT-PESAPA card I had (actually still do, but only use it rarely for PATA) was limited to tthat, it's from around 2005 or so I think so maybe 2TB drives didn't exist then.  (I also for a while had a Rosewill external 3.5" enclosure that I learned when buying a 3TB drive that could only format ~700 MB that it had the same limit.)  Also several years ago I wanted the ability to pull individual drives out of a system to use with a 3.5" dock somewhere else, but I'm pretty sure USB flash drives and external SSDs would be better for that now. 🙂

    Spoiler

    Ahh, yeah I imagine the card I mentioned above definitely had that limit.  Maybe it was due to its age, I think I've seen a copyright date of around 2003 or 2005 on my LGA1150 PC when booting it up.  (I've wondered if it was a limitation of SATA II (3Gb/s) though... but I think I've heard of people plugging in >2TB drives into SATA II ports on other systems and it was fine, but idk.
    Interesting thing though, the BT-PESAPA's boot spalsh text doesn't pop up on my AM4 board, and I can't see devices plugged into it from WIndows, but I can see them from Linux.  Also in Windows on the LGA1150 board, the drives were visible but not SMART data; I had to boot Linux to see the SMART data.

    I also, for a while, had an external Rosewill 3.5" HDD dock, forget the model number, but I learned the hard way it didn't support drives > 2 TB.  (Not as "hard" as I learned to not plug a 5TB or 8TB drive into the BT-PESAPA, though.)  I had bought a 3TB drive, then went to format it and it was only seeing something like 700 GB.  I ended up having to return the drive and buy a 2TB drive instead.  (At the time, I didn't have a working desktop PC at all, just my dad's Core 2 Duo laptop which we still have but he upgraded in 2018 to an 8th-gen Core i7 laptop, jumping from WIndows XP to 10.)

    Also I mentioned earlier about liking UNRAID in that drives could be added one at a time.  I've also wanted the ability to pull a single drive with things on it and take it to a friend's house for whatever, but I imagine that a USB drive or external SSD would these days be much better suited for the purpose.  (Back when I was wanting to do that, though, you'd pay a couple hundred bucks for just a few tens of GB or single-digit GB or something like that, whereas a TB of HDD space might be around $100 or so but I forget.  I could be off on the prices, but it was around 10-15 years ago or so I think.)

     

     

     

    On 11/6/2022 at 3:28 PM, heimdali said:

    The overcommitment doesn't really matter until the RAM isn't actually used.

    Ah ... but I'm often (as in a few times a minute or more) getting lag spikes just using my PC even when I'm only using <10% CPU and ~50% RAM.  (I could understand when they're maxed out, but not when resources are still availble...)

    Spoiler

    Ahh.  Also something I haven't figured out is why my PC often gets lag spikes (sometimes small and barely noticeable like the one I just had where I typed 2 or 3 words before it appeared on screen, but sometimes also pretty big where half the system is unresponsive for a minute or two or more), even though I might only be using 5-10% of my CPU, and my RAM is only about half used.  (I would have thought I shouldn't be getting input / processing lag spikes or whatever until my CPU and RAM were both maxed out.)

     

    Also just now I was editing a portion of the draft for this post, and... I highlighted a selection of text,  Ctrl+X'ed it, clicked the spot where I wanted to paste, Ctrl+V'ed, then clicked another spot to click and drag to highlight and delete some text .... but there was a delay from when I hit Ctrl+V until it actually pasted, and it pasted the text in the other spot where I was going to try to delete.

     

    Side note, it's super annoying when websites either load elements that move things around on the page AFTER it has visually started to appear, or when, on a login page, it jumps your cursor to the username entry field.   I've lost count of how many times I go to click one thing and I click something else instead cause it moved, or, I'm in the process of logging in and start typing my password in clear text in the username box.
    I remember the days in the MS-DOS era when, while the PC was booting up, there was some kind of keyboard buffer or something so we could start entering commands and things before it had even finished booting.  (Why a similar ability doesn't seem to carry forward to modern times escapes me.)

     

     

     

    On 11/6/2022 at 3:28 PM, heimdali said:

    It seems like you need hardware that's more reliable.

    Maybe.  I thought the stuff I had was supposed to be at least fairly decent, at least if I remember right reading reviews on it, there weren't a lot of complaints about DOA, failures, etc that I could remember.

     

    I mentioned earlier I'm not considering Seagate HDDs - that's because of possible reliability issues I've heard from some people, including my brother and others.  I wonder if the newer IronWolf Pro or Exos drives might be okay though, but I would only consider one if I was running it in a RAID1 array with a different brand drive, like a WD Ultrastar/Gold or a Toshiba MG-series drive.  (As for that, see the comments earlier about "fake raid".)

     

     

     

    On 11/6/2022 at 3:28 PM, heimdali said:

    Perl is your friend ...

    Ahh, I'm not at all familiar with perl, or pretty much any other scripting / programming language for that matter.  (What little experience I had with basic, pascal, html, batch files, etc, 20-30 years ago or so has pretty much fallen by the wayside.)

     

     

     

    On 11/6/2022 at 3:28 PM, heimdali said:

    You can always use rsync.  Some file systems support exporting themselves in some efficient way, too.  I haven't tried that, maybe it's a good option.  Rsync is more general and easy to use.

    Ah.  I actually used rsync recently, but for a different task.

    Spoiler

    Basically I have a bunch of folders & files in a section of a VM on my laptop, and I was wanting to go through them to decide what to keep vs delete.
    I used rsync to clone the entire directory structure (but not the files) to another spot in the VM, then copied that clone to have 3 cloned directory structures.  I named the parent trees with various names, like "00 processing", "01 maybe save" and "02 prob del".
    Then I went through (won't go into detail how but it took several days or a week or more to work with about 20-30 GB or several tens or few hundreds of thousands of files & folders, IIRC) them and was moving stuff I thought I wanted to keep into "save" and stuff I was pretty sure I wanted to delete into "del".  (Main reasons I didn't delete right away was I wanted to see how much disk space I was freeing up relative to how much I was keeping, and just in case I made a mistake with the initial processing and wanted to keep something I had segregated for deletion, before I actually deleted it.)

    There were several spots where I noticed some duplicate folder structures.  In most situations though, I didn't bother with running WinDirStat although I might have done it once; I just did a right-click+properties and compared number of files and bytes taken up, and in some cases I could just weed out duplicates that way.  There were a few situations where there were several duplicates in a row, but then I noticed that one of the duplicates was considerably larger and had more files, and some of the smaller duplicates were missing those files, so I just kept the one larger duplicate for that one.)

    There's still some files I want to do some work with paring down, in this case text files where I had kept chat logs of steam conversations quite a few years ago.  (I hear notepad++ might be able to do something I want, which is find text (for example so and so is online/offline, you lost your steam connection, so and so is playing xyz game, etc) then mark the entire line, then go through and delete them, but it's across a bunch of files in quite a few different folders and I think N++ only works with one file or folder at a time.  (Also there's some other text I want to delete, but in that case I think looking for particular words might not work, as sometimes I might have used different words to mean the same thing, or the same word could mean something completely different in a different context.  Take swear filters for example, and look up s'thorpe problem (I left off part of the word, btw just because it starts with "s" it is not referring to certain brown stuff, just in case a swear filter here doesn't understand context) for an idea of what I'm talking about in regards to taking things out of context, or whatever.  (Basically that's the name of an actual place I think in England, but people back in the 1990s that lived there were unable to register for accounts on AOL because it thought it was something else, among other things.)  Also don't try typing the Latin phrase that starts with "sigma" and ends with "laude" in the LTT discord.  (Also I won't say the phrase, but another one comes to mind that in an innocent context could refer to a swimming cat, or something like that.  I wonder how long until we actually have swear filters that can properly understand context, etc...)

     

     

     

     

    On 11/6/2022 at 3:28 PM, heimdali said:

    And you still think you're not hoarding data? 🙂  Stuffing more disks into your computer is not the way to go.  It takes no more than a disk failing or a little virus hitting you, or, if you don't have an UPS, a power surge and part of or all of your data is gone.  Do you have at least ECC RAM in your computer?

    Hah, I talked about "not hoarding data" earlier 😄 ... "Stuffing more disks", I can't really do that, 8 is my max right now.

    Spoiler


    Heh 🙂 well I've run out of drive bays and SATA ports, so stuffing more disks isn't an option at least right now.  (I had thought of some idea of a small external case for extra HDDs with its own PSU, that I would connect the HDDs to a 9200-16e card with SAS/SATA breakout cables, but that hasn't happened.)
    At this point though, I'd be replacing smaller disks with larger ones, preferably 3 or 4 small drives (or better yet all 8 drives that would fit in the case / connect to the motherboard) with one larger drive that holds the data on all the small ones, and costs the same as one of the small ones had cost when I had bought it a few years prior or whenever.  (I had typed up more about my desire to replace a bunch of smaller drives with a single bigger one for the cost like I outlined, but I can't remember if I typed it somewhere else which tells me this post is getting out of hand lol, or if it was in one of my previous edits on this draft and I lost it when my Ctrl+Z completely messed things up.)
    I don't have a working UPS now.  We've had one in the past, but I think it wasn't working like 15 years ago or so, if I remember right.  (Actually we still have it but it's buried in a corner somewhere with a bunch of stuff in the way so I can't get to it to see what make and model it is.)

    Also I'm using 4x32GB Team Expert DDR4-3600 CL18 in my current AM4 system, but running at 3466 cause it's not quite stable at 3533 I think, and it won't boot at 3600.  Last I checked, it wasn't ECC, and if I was going to get ECC RAM the same capacity, it would be quite at least twice as expensive (like $1K I think vs the ~$500-550 or so I paid for it), and it would be slower, maxing out at DDR4-3200 CL22.  (But then I guess RAM speed doesn't matter if I'm running out of the stuff anyway and hitting pagefile...)  I think my B550 Taichi + 5950X might support ECC but I'm not 100% sure.  (pcpartpicker says it doesn't but I know that's not always accurate, I've heard other sources say AM4 in some situations does support ECC.)
    If I had my way, ECC would be ubiquitous / universal, with even the lowest-end consumer / portable systems requiring it.  (Also I'd require support for higher density ECC RDIMMs and LRDIMMs in all but the lowest-end Intel Hx10 / AMD Ax20 chipsets, that way you could put a TB of RAM in an AM4 or LGA1700 board, or maybe 2+ TB in a 4-slot DDR5 board like AM5 or the DDR5 version of LGA1700.)


    As for "stuffing more disks into my computer"... if there was a way to actually safely mount all of them AND hook them up...  (Also if I was using a low profile CPU cooler, like something that's not taller than the VRM heatsinks, then I'd have room for several more HDDs...)

    1417397177_P2080018-lotsofHDDsinDef_R5AX760Z97Extreme6-a1samplepic.JPG.2d51721bf4e229314e37334bd1096ef6.JPG

     

    This is how I might have wanted to connect extra drives if I used a SAS HBA with external ports, like tha 9200-16e...

    319829208_CaseExtNASHDDs-Mockupc-2020-03-05.thumb.png.74daa5204269eb1b883c98897d01adcb.png

     

    My idea, if my previous Rosewill Thor X2 had its physical hard drive capacity maxed out, and I was using no GPU and a low-profile CPU cooler.

    1514130832_RosewillThorV2Case-lotsofHDDtrays-B-2020-04-27.thumb.jpg.ee63b7a40d02967c58c0d06be3519550.jpg

    But, maybe it's better to have a dual-chamber case and put all the HDDs on the back side, (but idk of any that exists that's not rackmount), something like the mockup in the lower half of this pic...
    1476197668_somecaseideacompilations(lotsofHDDs)-2021-11-21a.thumb.jpg.0f03b6a14c9f959b32a930579ea0b52c.jpg

     

     

    Sometimes I've had to run drives outside my case as well...

    458490972_IMG_20200825_121810-severalHDDsconnected.thumb.jpg.2c9b1eb9223a7468a9705c060ab48685.jpg

     

    IMG_20190806_172817171.thumb.jpg.b6401e471ea61660539a9d8cffe5e7a8.jpg

     


    I've wanted a compact NAS case with dimensions like this, that would support an ATX motherboard and like 10 HDDs...

    1855723138_ATXCasesizeidea(Z97Extreme6Hyper212EvoATXPSUseveral3.5inHDDs)-2021-11-20.thumb.jpg.05f615f65da4a4ba02cdbc13877e9b83.jpg

     

     

     

    On 11/6/2022 at 3:28 PM, heimdali said:

    Why more than 512?  I wouldn't use that much but it kinda makes sense to use sector size as orientation.  You'd have to experiment with 1024 and 4096 or maybe even stripe size to see what's faster.  You also need to consider that the database may be using the same disks you're reading from and you probably don't want to wait days on the results.  If the first 512 bytes of two files are identical, you would compare them no further than the first byte that differs.

     

    You could make it so that your result would say to what percentage files are identical.  But how do you measure that?  How identical are two files when all their bytes are the same but they're in a different order?  You wanna sort them before comparing? 🙂

     

    There's no reason to assume that files having a different size would be identical because if they were identical, they would have the same size.  Files with same size may be identical or not.  Files with the same date are suspicious.  Files that have bytes that differ and are at the same position of the file are not identical.

    ...

    Okay now I see the "compare no further than the first byte that differs"... that's a good idea probably. 🙂 (It's possible that in some cases I might want to compare some of those further, but I'd probably deal with those situations if / when they arise.)

    ...

    Also, some media files might have been en-/trans-coded with different settings, but are ultimately the same thing.  In some cases I might have a bunch of different bitrates / codecs of the same thing, and I need to pare some of those down and only keep the max quality / uncompressed one (a "master" so to speak), and maybe a couple lesser bitrate ones probably.

    Spoiler

    Well I think it's possible that the first 512 or 4096 bytes or whatever might be identical, but somewhere later in the file might not be.
    Also I don't really need this to be super fast, as in, finish the entire job in like a half hour or an hour or so.  I'd be totally fine if it takes several hours or even a full day or two or three to process.  I can just use my laptop in the meantime while my desktop is churning through the data.

    As for where to put the database... I do have about 650 GB of space free on my NVMe boot SSD, maybe the database could hopefully fit in a few hundred GB of that, leaving the HDDs free for doing the main operation of going through their data, etc.

    (moved out of spoiler, see above)

    As for files of different sizes being identical - of course they wouldn't be "identical" ... but they could have been taken from the same audio, photo or video source, and just be a different resolution or bit rate of the same thing.  For example, one might be an uncompressed CD-quality wave file, while another might be a 16kbps 11kHz mono mp3 file; or, one might be a high-resolution raw image from a camera, or a BMP, while another is sized down to 640x480 and either lower-quality jpg, or gif, or lower bit depth or something; or, there could be a 4K 100Mbps H.264 file from my Panasonic FZ1000 camera, and a 720p mjpeg or something else of the same video that I had done some transcoding tests, and so on.

     

     

     

    On 11/6/2022 at 3:28 PM, heimdali said:

    I guess the programs that deduplicate btrfs would have to be like that.

     

    Nothing prevents you from making a check sum of all the check sums of all the files in a directory and from comparing those check sums of check sums.

    Ahh, checksums of checksums... but in my case I also have a bunch of partially duplicate folders, some maybe only 2 or 3 levels deep, some well into the double digits. 😛

    Spoiler

    checksums of checksums ... maybe I should look more into that.  Thing is which directories get the checksums checked. 😄 (Try saying that 5 times fast lol)
    And there's the issue of the structure, for example, E:\a001\b001\c001\d001 might have a similar structure to H:\a003\b003\c003\d003\e003\f003\g003\h003\i003\j003\k003\l003\m003 and so on, and yes I'm pretty sure I have some stuff drillled that deep.  (too bad there's multiple reasons why I can't just boot Linux, do cd /, then use a terminal command to recursively list everything then save & upload the resulting txt 😛)

    quick note, speaking of backups... the idea of something like "dd if=// ... " comes to mind, but if I'm backing up the ENTIRE filesystem including connected and network devices, problem is what would I back it up TO, if I'm already specifying to back up not just everything directly connected to that PC, but also everything on the network...  (Also in my book, if I'm not including every single bit / sector including boot sectors, landing zones or whatever, normally inaccessible areas, firmware, etc, it's not a complete backup.)

    (I'll admit that the thought of just deleting everything has come to my mind more than zero times, but I don't really want to exercise a nuclear option as there are some things I want or need to save. 😛 )

     

     

     

    Also I'm maybe considering getting a couple 2TB or 4TB SSDs (one SATA 2.5", one NVMe M.2) for my laptop, to replace a couple 1TB SSDs so I have more space.  (My other 2 bays are already occupied with 2 TB SSDs.)  I'm just a bit hesitant to pay that much, for example, for a 4TB; I'd prefer it be closer to what I paid for the 1TB a few years ago but prices aren't coming down as quickly as I'd like.  (I miss the days in the 1990s or so when HDD capacity would jump by >2x for the same price in about a year or less.)

    Spoiler

    Also ... I've been thinking a bit recently about getting a couple more SSDs for my laptop, either 2TB or 4TB to replace a couple 1TB SSDs I have now, but I'm not sure if I'll do that yet or not.  (We might be getting kinda close on the 2TB drives being close in price to what I paid for a 1TB, but we're not there yet on 4TB drives being the same cost, afaik.)
    I paid about $105 for a 1TB 2.5" WD Blue 3D in August 2020 (my laptop's current Windows 10 boot drive), and $228 for a 1TB NVMe Samsung 970 Evo in November 2018, those are the drives I'm looking at replacing.  (No they're not failing, I just want more space, and all 4 SSD slots are filled - the other 2 slots are occupied by a 2TB 2.5" Seagate Barracuda 120 SSD and a 2TB NVMe Silicon Power P34A80.)

     

    Looking at pcpartpicker prices.... I see a 2TB NVMe Mushkin Pilot-E for $138, a 2TB NVMe Silicon Power P34A80 for $145 (I already have one, plus a 1TB that's my Windows 10 boot drive in my desktop; Linux in the desktop is served by a 250GB SATA M.2-2260 Crucial MX200 which had previously been my Windows boot drive in my laptop but I "dd"-ed it to the 1TB WD Blue but now I can't update Windows past 1909 cause it thinks I don't have enough disk space for some reason even though it has ~600+ GB free, and I REALLY don't want to reinstall, hence why I'm still booting from SATA and not NVMe in the laptop cause I couldn't figure out how to migrate an existing install that way)), a 2TB 2.5" WD Blue 3D for $168, and a 2TB 2.5" Crucial MX500 for $172.  As for 4TB drives, I see a 4TB 2.5" Samsung 870 QVO (probably the only QLC drive I would dare to maybe consider; also I won't consider any DRAMless drives) for $330, a 4TB 2.5" Crucial MX500 for $345, a 4TB 2.5" WD Blue 3D for $348, or a 4TB NVMe Team MP34 or ADATA SX8100 for $350.  An 8TB SSD would be nice, but the cheapest is > $700 or so and it's QLC.

     

     

    I've also wanted to compare the speed of some old HDDs vs current ones and SSDs -- but not in terms of MB/s transfer rates, I'm thinking more like "How long does it take to fill the entire disk if you're constantly writing to it".
    I wanted to buy a couple old <80MB PATA HDDs on ebay, but those are crazy expensive, so maybe someone has some laying around and I should make another thread asking if someone has a way to do that. 🙂  (I'm thinking that some of the older/smaller drives, like 40MB or 20MB, or if anyone has 10MB or 5MB MFM drives laying around and a working system capable of interfacing with them, could fill the entire drive in maybe half a minute to a few minutes or so, not the day plus that a modern 20+TB HDD would take, or the half hour or hour or longer that I guess a DRAMless 8TB+ QLC SSD might take to fill...)

    Spoiler

    Also another thing I've thought about experimenting with was checking transfer rates - not in MB/s, but in time to write & read the entire drive, of some older drives, but maybe that's better suited for another thread.  Anyway in a nutshell, I had thought of getting a few 40MB or 80MB or so IDE drives on ebay, but when I looked at them, those things are crazy expensive per MB, compared to the $/MB on modern HDDs. 😮  Basically though, I think those old drives were "faster" in writing / reading the entire drive - there's an article several years ago on Tom's Hardware (something about 15 years, capacities outran performance or something like that) where you could basically read / write to an entire 40 MB IDE drive in like 2 or 3 minutes.  But, it takes probably a full day to read/write to an 8TB or 10TB drive, and I imagine an 18TB or 20TB drive isn't any faster.

    Maybe instead of me buying the drives, maybe someone else already has a system with drives like that, or better yet, something that supports MFM drives and has some of the early 5 or 10 MB drives.  I wonder how quickly those could be written or read... I hear the ST-506 MFM interface supported up to 5 Mb/s, not sure if that translates to 500 KB/s (10-bit, overhead, etc) or 625 KB/s (straight-up 8-bit), and I realize that they may not have hit that full speed, but if they did, a 5 MB drive could theoretically be written or read in like 8 or 10 seconds.  How long until we have modern hard drives or SSDs that are even faster and are NOT expensive... closest concept I can think of (which afaik doesn't exist for HDDs yet) is the comparison to the optical disk stamping I talked about earlier. 🙂

     

     

  19.  

    11 hours ago, heimdali said:

    Have they given up the brand name completely?  The HGST Ultrastars were always good and it would seem stupid to give up the brand.

    I think they're not using the HGST name anymore, but they're using the Ultrastar name and a very similar model number pattern.

     

    11 hours ago, heimdali said:

    Does it matter?  Are you running them in RAID0?

    I'm not sure that it would matter.
    No, I'm not running them in any kind of RAID.  I had briefly considered RAID1 in case I bought a Seagate drive and another brand, but I would only be running motherboard or Windows RAID.  I've heard concerns about the former having issues sometimes, and I'm not sure if the latter would be recognized on the occasions I boot Linux.

    Also, in that capacity range, I right now actually have a total of 6 drives - 3x 8TB HGST Deskstar NAS, 1 8TB Toshiba N300, and 2x 10TB HGST Deskstar NAS.
    I currently have them set up so that 2 of the 8TB HGST drives, and 1 of the 10TB is used for data storage for whatever I put on it.  (Between an 8TB and 10TB, they house the vast majority of my older stuff.)  The remaining drives (1 8TB HGST, the 8TB Toshiba & the other 10TB HGST) are cold-storage (normally unplugged) backups that admittedly are quite overdue for updating as I haven't done that in at least a year or more.  (I had basically copied the entire contents of the main data drives to the backup drives, but going forward I need to find a better way to keep backups updated.  I've thought of some details as to what I want to be able to do but don't want to clutter this post with that.)

     

    11 hours ago, heimdali said:

    Hard to say, the prices you're getting are already very good.  They're way more expensive here --- so expensive that I would pull the old 3TB reds from my backup server and add them to my server instead of buying more new disks at these prices.  Before inflation, I was lucky to get 2x8 gold for EUR 255 each because I happened to hit the low price which went up from there.  Those are still more expensive here even today.  12TB gold are about EUR 380 and the 16TB are 470--570, so go figure.

     

    So for all I know, your prices could be double tomorrow or go down or go somewhere in between.  You might just have happened to hit that very day where the prices are low.  Or prices go down on black friday, who knows.  If I could get 16TB or maybe be 12TB for under 300, I might just buy even though I still have enough free space.  These days, what you don't buy today will be more expensive tomorrow.

     

    I don't know what you're doing, but there is no way to store data on a single disk, so disks always come in pairs at least.  I'm not willing to spend like EUR 1000 or more on just 16TB.  I can fit 14 disks in my server, so I could use smaller ones if I have to, or, if prices get even worse, I could use like half of my backup server as archive instead of for backups.

    Ahh, EUR vs USD, yeah there would be a difference there.  (I'm east of San Diego, CA, about an hour and 25 minutes from Micro Center in Tustin, but when I've been there they haven't always had the lowest prices on HDDs, or the models that I would want in stock.

    It briefly popped into my mind to maybe buy the drives now, but don't open them yet, and if prices drop for BF, see if they'll price match after the fact (some may, some may not), or if different models go on sale, return them and buy the others.  (But, there might be a restocking fee to consider which would probably negate any potential savings, so that's probably not a good idea.)
    Also I'm not running any kind of server, it's just my home PC.  While I do have quite a bit of stuff, I don't think I qualify for r/datahoarders yet. 😄

    (I'm guessing you're referring to RAID or backups when you talk about no way to store data on a single disk so they come in pairs, or do you mean something else?)  Also 16 TB here can be had for about $300, or considerably less if you're willing to risk not having a warranty because of buying form a 3rd-party seller, or would I have a warranty still and shouldn't be worried about that?
    If the $1000 on 16TB includes backups, I'd prefer if possible to spend a lot less on the backup media than on the main storage media.  (That was possible in the early/mid 1990s - see the highlighted examples in the pic in the spoiler, comparing the cost of hard drives vs tape media and drives.)

    Spoiler

    1667726345_ECmoCKzVAAElnk--SGComputersJan1994highlighthddvstape.thumb.jpg.df2a9664ce43f5d109e9fced5a0ab38f.jpg

     

    11 hours ago, heimdali said:

    How would that have anything to do with the disks themselves unless they need to wake up from saving energy?  Besides, NAS drives tend to be designed for saving energy and to be somewhat slow, at least that goes for the 3 and 4TB reds.  I quit buying those for that reason (their failure rate isn't great, either), so if you're looking at NAS disks, you have to ask yourself if they're the right choice.  And don't buy 5400rpm ones.  Even with the gold ones I disabled the energy management because it had awful latencies when accessing files until I finally found out they go to sleep and crank up their parking count up like crazy.  Question is what makes them fail sooner, keeping them running or let them go to park all the time.

    It's not due to waking up from saving energy, because 1 - I don't think those drives have that function (at least not like the green drives, and I don't have Windows power plan set to turn off the hard disks at all), and 2 - when that issue happens, it's still persisting several minutes later as I"m trying to go through other stuff preparing the PC to restart, and if I go away and come back later they're still stuck at 100% usage with the drives inaccessible to Windows.  (In "This PC" where it shows the drives, the drive letter will be there but the bar showing free space, and the capacity, will not be there.)  When I restart (which sometimes requires just using the reset button on the case especially when my software restart attempt hangs for several minutes), it's fine until it happens again.
    Also that issue seems to be only happening with the 8 & 10 TB HGST drives; my 12 & 14 TB Toshiba drives are fine, and my 8 TB Toshiba might be okay as well but I haven't verified that last one.

    The last 5400rpm "green" drive I bought was a WD WD20EZRX several years ago, and I no longer have that drive.  Since about 2015, I've only bought 7200rpm drives that are rated for NAS or "enterprise" grade drives, and going forward I plan to only buy drives with at least a 5 year warranty and preferably a 300 or 550+ TB/year workload rating.  (No, not because I would push them that hard, but I feel like they would be more reliable than basic consumer-grade desktop drives like WD Blue, Seagate Barracuda, Toshiba P300.)

     

    11 hours ago, heimdali said:

    ZFS has been designed for arrays with 40 disks or more and the idea of protecting the data was paramount while performance was not.  I'm not too fond of it at all, especially not with only a few disks.  I'd go with btrfs unless you want RAID5 or 56.  If you keep multiple generations of backups, I guess deduplication might be particularly great, but I haven't experimented with that yet.

     

    And why is everyone so scared of RAM?  Just get a server with 128GB or more, or upgrade it.  It's not like it makes so much difference anymore.

    Ahh, yeah I wasn't sure that ZFS would make sense in my case when I might only have 8 disks.  (I have had 10 or 12 or so plugged in at a time, but that was on a motherboard with 10 SATA ports (ASRock Z97 Extreme6), and I had another PCIe to SATA 2 / IDE card plugged in as well.  Side note: learned the hard way to not plug drives larger than 2TB into that card.  Was able to get some stuff back and clone to other disks, etc, but that's partly why I have a bunch of files with gibberish names that were identical to some other files I also had, if you saw the part earlier where I had to use TestDisk / PhotoRec to recover some stuff.)

     

    I've thought about building a NAS for backup purposes, but details are outside the scope of this post.  (I had considered ZFS / TrueNAS for that, but have also been considering UnRAID so that I can add disks one at a time as necessary.)

     

    I could sometimes use more than 128GB RAM 🙂 I've had my pagefile on my laptop with 64GB RAM reach upwards of 308GB (which with the 64GB RAM used adds up to 372GB committed), and right now my total committed on my desktop with 128GB RAM is about 131GB (interestingly it says only 68GB RAM is in use) and I've seen it quite a bit higher.
    (Also I forgot to mention earlier that sometimes only 2 of my 4 RAM sticks are detected, showing 64GB RAM instead of all 4 sticks at 128GB, which usually means I have to restart.  There was one time I thought for sure it booted with all 128GB detected, but later came back to the PC and it was only showing 64GB, but I can't see how that would happen without the system crashing or blue screening, and I have it set to not automatically restart after a stop error.)

     

    11 hours ago, heimdali said:

    How would you access a file that has been deduplicated without a pointer to it where you need it?  Transitively spoken, deduplicating files doesn't mean disappearing files.

    You can still delete the pointers.  The advantage is that you don't need to.  If you want to actually delete them, just write a little program that goes through your file system and finds all the duplicates, if there isn't already one.

    I kinda want to get rid of the file system clutter, and not have 5 or 10 copies of the same thing scattered who knows where.  Yes, 2 or 3 copies is good for backup purposes, but they of course shouldn't be on the same drive. 🙂 (I'd need to find a good solution for off-site backup though... there's no possible way I could do the daily full backup (which to me means every sector of every disk, for example using the linux "dd" command to clone disks which is how i've done a few backups & it's the only reliable way I've gotten a cloned Windows install to boot) that some people advocate, when I'd be backing up multiple 10s of TB (and besides there's no way I could afford that storage), especially on a site like BackBlaze when my internet is limited to 10 Mbps upload and a 1TB/month cap.

     

     

    11 hours ago, heimdali said:

    I don't have that because I didn't have the disk space back then to keep it and had to start deleting too often.  If you keep hoarding like that, it'll become expensive and unwieldy.  Maybe find out how well compressing your data would work and use a file system that compresses it on the fly.

    Actually my older data isn't taking up a ton of space, compared to some of the newer stuff.  About 6 and a half years ago I bought a camera that records 4K at 100 Mbps, which basically ends up being about 4 GB for every 5 minutes 55 seconds of footage.  I've recorded some stuff with that camera, but haven't recorded nearly as much as I want to.  (Sometimes I've recorded services at church camps, and that works out to around half a TB or so for each 3 or 4 day weekend event; and even just recording 2 hours will chew up about 80 GB.  Do that twice a week, and it adds up; even more so if I also record other things that I've wanted to record but have been holding off for various reasons.)

     

    11 hours ago, heimdali said:

    Visually lays it out like how?  There was, or still is, some program the name of which I forgot that would make a colourful display of many squares/rectangles with the fields the larger the larger the file it represented is.  It helps you identify large files, or, if applied to directories, those directories that take up a lot of space.  Then those may be the ones worthwhile to take a closer look at.  It's only of very limited help, though.  IIRC it was some KDE program.

    I think you're talking about WinDirStat, and I've run that on this PC, it's given me a very general overview of things on here.

    Spoiler

    418602767_Screenshot(269).thumb.png.1d2edda6cb9fbb6d9eec94b0923c04d8.png

     

    11 hours ago, heimdali said:

    That doesn't seem useful.  If I were to write a program to find duplicates, I'd probably go through a file systen and dump some information into a sql database, like file date and size of each file.  Then make three queryies, one returning the files that have the same date and size, one that returns the files having the same size and one that returns the files having the same date.  Then create a checksum like a sha256 or whatever suits best for the files remaining in the deduplicated results of each query and dump the checksums and then list the files the checksums of which are identical.  If that's too slow, maybe dump the 512bytes of each file into the database when getting date and size and use that to compare the first 512 bytes to reduce the number of files to actually check further.

     

    That's pretty trivial ...

     

    Ahh, I hadn't thought of an sql database and the last time I did any coding was like 25 or 30 years ago as a kid, and that was really simple stuff in basic and pascal.
    I generally like the idea though, of querying files with same date, and same size, then when matches are found there, start comparing checksums, or first portions of files to see what's identical. (I would probably use a fair bit more than 512 bytes for the initial compare though, then if those match, compare the entire files.  It's possible, for example, I might have audio files that are the same size, and the sound is identical except where I might have applied a fade to silence at the very end of a copy, and I'm guessing the duplicate detector would need to parse the entire file to find it.)

    Also I'm pretty sure there are programs out there that will find duplicate or near-duplicate files ... but what I was looking for is something that will find multiple duplicate folders.


    One bad habit I had gotten to, when copying stuff from an SD card either from my phone when I had one that used it, or from my camera or my audio recorder (Zoom H2/H2n or others), was just dumping the entire contents of the card onto the PC (cause I was too lazy to only choose the portions that I had recorded new things), then leaving stuff on the card cause I still wanted it accessible in-device, then again copying the entire thing another time later to another folder on the PC.  (There were some occasions where I only copied the new stuff and deleted the old stuff off the card, but not always.)  So, I've got a bunch of duplicate folders scattered all over the place.

    Also I have duplicates of older "My Documents" folders, maybe even a few old Windows installs, etc, although on the Windows installs, I'm thinking I should get rid of the ones for which I no longer have the hardware that it was being used on.  Problem is, I can't just delete some of them, as back in the day (late 1990s into mid 2000s or so) there were sometimes user / data files that somehow got saved in the Windows folder, or in the program files folder, instead of in the user area (like users\username\(etc), or in my case on a different drive entirely).  (Also as for the program files, sometimes I've wanted to be able to run some older programs again, but I'd either need to find installers or find some way to get them to work, and I'd at least want to know which ones they were, and preferably if possible preserve the settings that I had used in the past, but that's outside the scope of this post, and I have too many other things going on to really take any time to pursue that for now.)

     

  20. 33 minutes ago, heimdali said:

    Good selection, what about HGST?  And it seemed to me that 16TB is currently more cost effective than the lager ones.  Wait until black friday unless you find a really good offer.  Those prices seem to change every day.

     

    Perhaps use a file system that supports deduplication.

     

    HGST, afaik, was bought by WD.  (I heard some of their technology, maybe involving 3.5" disks, went to Toshiba.)  The model numbers of the WD Ultrastar drives use very close to the same pattern as some HGST drives had used, and in fact Ultrastar was an HGST brand I believe.

    I had been maybe considering 16TB, but I'm planning to replace 10TB and 8TB drives, and last I checked, 10 + 8 > 16.  Also what would you consider a really good offer?  (For me, I'm thinking 22TB under $360, 20TB under $300 or 18TB under $250 or something like that.)  I'd really like 26TB or larger since I want to replace 8+8+10, but those aren't really available yet.  (There is one from WD, but it's host-managed SMR among other issues.)

    One issue I've been having with the 8 and 10TB drives (HGST Deskstar NAS), and therefore considering replacing them, is that once in a while they'll go to 100% access time in WIndows task manager, and be completely inaccessible.  I'm not 100% sure it's the drives though, as often at the same time my motherboard's built-in wifi drops out (to the point where WIndows says no network connections detected or something like that).  Sometimes my keyboard/mouse have also quit responding requiring me to use the reset button to restart the PC, and at least once when I'd come back to the PC, it was on a black screen with the GPU pinned at 100% fan speed.  Restarting the PC usually cured those issues, until it cropped up again a few weeks or a month or so later.


    System is an AMD 5950X, ASRock B550 Taichi, Arctic Liquid Freezer II 360 (I'm aware that some have issues but haven't had trouble with mine yet and don't want to take it apart unless I absolutely have to and am making a significant platform upgrade, for example socket SP5 or DDR6/7 (although this one was a budget-constrained stop-gap incremental upgrade from a 4790K, went 5950X in case it would be more than several years before I could replace it)), Silicon Power 1TB P34A80 boot drive with Windows 10 Pro, 128GB Team Expert DDR4-3600 CL18 running at 3466, EVGA SC GTX 1060 3GB, Corsair RM850 PSU, Fractal Design Define R5 case, plus a 250GB Crucial CT250MX200SSD6 with a Linux install.  Current HDDs are 2x 14TB Toshiba MG07ACA14TE, 12TB Toshiba MG07ACA12TE, 2x 10TB HGST HDN721010ALE604, 2x 8TB HGST HDN728080ALE604 and 8TB Toshiba HDWG180XZSTA.  Monitor is an ASUS VG289Q, keyboard is Logitech K270, mouse is Logitech G604.

     



    As for deduplication ... I had thought about ZFS deduplication, but the suggestion on some sites for 5GB RAM per TB of raw storage gives me paranoia.  Also I feel like dedup would basically just get rid of the actual duplicate data but still leave some kind of pointers / shortcuts intact in the file system where the actual duplicate files had been, but in my case, I want the actual duplicate files / folders gone.  (Maybe I'm too much of a packrat, I still have some documents / spreadsheets on the PC dating from when my family first had a '286 PC in Q1'1989 when I was a kid, and some games from the late 80s / early 90s that if I could, I might want to play some of them again.)
    I'd like to find some utility that goes through my storage, visually lays them out for me then lets me decide what to keep / merge vs what to delete.  Maybe something like WinMerge, but looks across the entire drive for patterns of similar files in the same folders, and also allows for files having different names and dates, but the same size and contents.  (Bonus points if it could also find near-matches, for example the same audio, photo, video files encoded with different settings, for example 1.4Mbps wave vs 48kbps mp3, or 16 megapixel Raw / BMP vs 640x480 75% jpg, or 4K 100mbps H.264 vs 640x480 2mbps MJPEG or whatever.)

  21. Hey ... I'm considering buying a couple 18TB or 20TB hard drives, with which I plan to replace an 8TB and 10TB with each.  (I'd like 26+TB drives so I can replace 8+8+10TB, but the only one that exists is host-managed SMR afaik.)

     

    The drives I'm considering:

     

    18TB Toshiba MG09ACA18TE - $299.99 (Newegg 3rd party - Platium Micro)
    18TB WD (Ultrastar DC H550 0F38459) WUH721818ALE6L4 - $319.99 (B&H, or Newegg 3rd party - Platinum Micro)
    18TB WD (Red Pro) WD181KFGX) - $349.99 (Newegg)
    20TB WD (Ultrastar DC H560 0F38785) WUH722020BLE6L4 - $379.99 (Newegg)
    20TB WD (Ultrastar DC H560 0F38755) WUH722020ALE6L4 - $387.99 (Newegg)


    (No Seagates are under consideration, because I & family / friends have had reliability issues with them in the past, etc.  I had considered an Exos or Ironwolf Pro but my brother, who's better with tech than me, said avoid Seagate HDDs, although I do have a 2TB Seagate SATA SSD in my laptop and it's been fine.)

     

    The best deal appears to be the 18TB Toshiba, but would I need to be worried about being denied warranty coverage if I buy from a 3rd-party seller, or getting a used / refurb drive?  (Also what is Platinum Micro's reputation like?)


    Or, I might consider the 18TB or 20TB Ultrastar drives.  The 18TB is a bit cheaper per TB ($19.15 vs $20.47 with 7.75% tax), but would it be worth it to go for the 20TB drives?  (I don't run a datacenter but I still consider some value in using fewer drives for the same / more capacity.)

     

    Or should I wait until closer to Black Friday, or are the 18+TB drives with 5+ year warranties not likely to be discounted much more?  (I did miss a sale in mid/late October where prices on some models were somewhat lower than they are now, for example a 20TB WD Red Pro was available for $359.99, or $284.99 for 18TB.)

    (I was going to ask in Discord, but thought I'd ask here instead.  Even though replies will be a lot slower (hours or days vs seconds or minutes), there's a better chance that I will see them here.)


    Also I'm needing to do some decluttering, get rid of some duplicate files / folders (there's some things that are probably duplicated like 5 or 10 times and scattered across multiple hard drives, some things possibly being 8 or 12 folders deep, some files having different names but same contents, etc, so idk if WinMerge would help much) ... I'm guessing the Programs, Apps and Websites subforum is a better place to ask about that?  (I was able to free up about a TB and a half or so just by finding some duplicate video files, comparing them by playing in VLC then deleting the ones with obscure names cause TestDisk / PhotoRec didn't preserve their normal names, but that was the easy part.)

     

     

    Also how long do you think until SSDs overtake HDDs in TB/$ and TB/drive, assuming the same level in the product stack?  (As in, high-end (TLC/DRAM/NVMe) SSD vs high-end (enterprise/CMR/etc) HDD, and the SSDs being able to handle 24/7 writes without dying better than the HDDs, among other things)

  22. Just a quick update, got an OtterBox Commuter at a local T-Mobile store a few days ago.  Seems pretty good so far, although I do wish the back was a bit more grippy.  (Also the case was super easy to put on, in a way that makes me a bit concerned about if it has a big fall (like several dozen meters or couple hundred feet or whatever) and the case or phone files for divorce from each other.)

    Didn't get a screen protector, they wanted to sell me one for $40 which seemed way high.  (I looked just now, and apparently in November 2016 I paid $7.95 on Amazon for a screen protector for an LG G4, which never got installed cause the phone soon started the boot loop issue.)

  23. Hmm I'm getting down to the wire, to where I need to factory reset the phone and send it in.  (An email recently reminded me to ship it by the 18th, but I want to send it on the 17th (Today, it's 12:48am as I'm typing) to be a bit on the safe side.

     

    I was able to bookmark my Chrome tabs, but it was a painstaking process that took a couple days.  Had to do it one at a time, putting them in folders for each window.  Also some I wasn't properly able to bookmark or save, since the sites / pages no longer exist.

    Which reminds me ... I really need a way to be able to pull from local cache AFTER having refreshed from the server in situations like that, any ideas how to do that, so that issue (resource no longer available, or changed) doesn't happen again and I could just use my local cache?

     

    Just now I was going through a few apps, and got stuck on Kindle.  There's a couple ebooks in .mobi format on the 3a that aren't in my Kindle library, and I can't open them on the Kindle app on the 6a.

    And I realized that a couple apps didn't get transferred at all, with at least one that's installed on the 3a not being available in the Play store at all.
    Also for some reason the files didn't properly get transferred when I did the original data transfer, so I had to upload them to Google Drive then re-download on the 6a.  Then, when I tried to open them in the Kindle app, they wouldn't open or preview.

     

    I'm sure there's some games I have on there that don't have their progress or settings properly saved either, and my main phone settings also didn't get preserved.

     

     

    What can I do to fix this, and make sure everything is properly transferred / synced?  I'd prefer to only use the cloud as a last resort (and would eventually like to set things up so I can be my own private cloud, but that's for another topic / post sometime), and there's no way I can fit 64 GB from the Pixel 3a into my 17GB Google Drive.


    Issues like this (and similar issues with PC upgrades / reinstalls, for example my parents' laptop had an issue that, when they took it to the shop, ended up having Windows reinstalled which didn't preserve their user account, firefox bookmarks (a biggie for my mom), wifi access, etc) make me not want to ever buy another computing device until the software makers (or whoever) get their act together and make it so we can completely seamlessly transfer between devices, reinstalls, restarts, etc.


    Anyway, I'll have to send the phone in, after a factory reset, later today.  If I had known this would be such a problem (with not all the data/settings/apps/etc being transferred) I would have thought thrice about buying a new phone.

  24.  

    attempted TL;DR:  got 6a, some data copied from 3a, but not all.  How to ensure ALL data (including settings, app data, etc) is copied?  Need to factory reset 3a and ship (trade-in) by the 18th.  Some phone numbers messed up in contacts too.  Also have almost decided on case (probably otterbox commuter) but it's a question of finding one in stock quickly enough so I can have it in a day or two, haven't had any luck there.

     

     

    Okay so I got the Pixel 6a, and have all but decided on a case for it (most likely Otterbox Commuter, although Spigen Tough Armor is still in the back of my mind).

     

    Anyway I need to factory reset the 3a (which is being traded in) and ship it by the 18th, and while I've transferred SOME of the data from my Pixel 3a to the 6a ...

     

    Emphasis on some of the data.  Unfortunately, not everything got transferred over properly, especially things that are pretty important to me, and aren't as trivial / easy to transfer as just copying from "internal storage", like music, photos, documents, etc.

     

     

    For example, while it did transfer most (idk if all yet?) of my contacts, at least one of them (my sister actually) had the wrong number assigned as the default number on the new phone.  (Both numbers were legitimate at various times / for various purposes, not like it threw in some totally random number, but it just picked the wrong one as default.  I haven't looked at most of my other contacts to determine what might have been screwed up there.

     

    Also, while some of my apps themselves got installed, pretty much none of the data got transferred. 
    A couple games I had paid for got reverted to their limited trial versions, while I was expecting that one I signed in, that would automatically sync.

    Also this is a biggie for me - a lot of the Chrome data didn't transfer properly either.  None of the 4249 chrome tabs in 144 windows got reopened (yes I know that's a lot, but sometimes bookmarks don't work properly for me especially when sites disappear or other things, it's too complicated to go into here), a lot of my settings didn't carry over, and I'm having to re-sign in to various sites that were already signed in on the previous phone.

     

    Also, the behavior when closing tabs or switching back to the app is messed up on the 6a.  (While it wasn't perfect on the 3a, it was still better).
    On the 3a, if I hit the back button, it would close the tab, and go to the next tab back in the list.  (Except in 2 cases.  1 - the originating tab (from which I did "open in new tab in window" or whatever) was still open in which case it went straight to that tab, OR, that tab was open from a previous session (either through a crash / restart / whatever), in which case it minimized the entire browser.
    But, on the 6a, it just minimizes the entire browser.
    Also, when I reopen Chrome on the 6a, it brings me to the multi window overview screen, instead of whatever tab I happened to be on.  (Hitting the back button once I get there brings me to that tab, but that's an extra step.)

     


    A couple weeks ago I did an adb backup from my Pixel 3a, and also separately copied the entire Internal Storage (via USB cable) from the 3a.

    However ... I can tell just from file / folder sizes that it was NOT a complete backup, and I don't know how to do that, or how to restore it to the 6a.
    On the Pixel 3a itself, it says the phone is using about 53 GB of storage (or a bit less), with about 11.37 GB free.  (Total is 64GB).

    However, the adb backup is only 12.8 GB, while the copied "internal storage" folder is only 15.3 GB.  So, somewhere around 35-40 GB is still missing.  (Yes, I know part of it is the OS, but I'm sure the actual app data, etc, is on there somewhere.)  I just looked in the folder structure, and while there's a com.android.chrome folder in the copied-from-int-storage backup, it's empty.)

     

    One thing that might help a little on Chrome is if there's some way I could open the tabs on my desktop computer's Chrome ... but then going on there and looking for tabs from other devices, they don't show up.  (A few of the tabs were, I'll admit, open since within a few weeks or so after I originally GOT the Pixel 6a in September 2019.  Yes, I do close some tabs ... when I'm done with them.)

     

    I don't want to root (then unroot) either phone, as I don't want any risk of messing things up, voiding warranty / trade-in, etc.

     

    I would have done a bit more in the last week or two, but I've had other things going on, between being at a piano technicians convention for several days the first weekend of August, helping care for my sister's pets (the one whose number got messed up in my phone) while her family is on vacation, dad being in the hospital with a broken femur (and also testing positive for Covid) and other things going on as well.  Anyway I need to get the rest of the stuff transferred from the 3a to the 6a in the next couple days so I can reset the 3a and send it in.

     

     

    Anyway, this not having data properly transfer when getting a new device, or reinstalling a new OS, is a perennial issue for me, not just on phones but also on PCs.  I still haven't properly transferred some things from my older PC to my newer one, and a few things I have tried to transfer, like firefox and chrome data by copying the profile folders, it still, among other things, logs me out on one device when I log into the same sites on other devices.  Also my parents recently had their Dell (yeah, I know 😕 ) laptop in the shop cause after we replaced the battery it wouldn't boot, and the shop reinstalled the OS, but failed to preserve the hundreds or thousands of firefox bookmarks my mom had, or the windows logon info / password, or the network printer drivers, and that's just a few things.

    Situations like that make me not want to *EVER* reinstall an OS or upgrade to a new platform, until that fatal (to me, at least) flaw (of not transferring everything) is fixed.

     

    I think the closest I've seen to having an almost proper "continuation" of OS/settings/apps/etc from one device to another was a time I pulled an M.2 SATA SSD that had Linux installed out of my laptop (with an Intel i7-6700K, Clevo P750DM-G, GTX 970M, 64GB RAM, etc), and plugged it into my current desktop (AMD Ryzen 9 5950X, ASRock B550 Taichi, GTX 1060 3GB, 128GB RAM, etc) and for the most part it was booting and working fine when I tested it several months ago.  (I think there was a little thing it was complaining about but I can't remember at the moment and not really in a position to restart and boot that SSD right now.)

     

    To me, a backup isn't just of c:\users\username, which is all the person at the shop did when he "backed up".
    To me, a backup is ... if the drive you're backing up is, say, 1 TB, then the BACKUP should take 1 TB of space, regardless of how much space is actually used on the drive being backed up.
    A proper backup would copy EVERY bit / sector of the drive, regardless of file system, so that, for example, if you were trying to restore from a situation where a partition got wiped or something, you would have just as much chance of success restoring from a clone as from the original.

  25. Thanks for the suggestions. 

    On 8/6/2022 at 11:03 AM, person123456789 said:

    dbrand grip

    Dbrand actually was briefly considered a couple times, although it's currently dropped from the list.

    On 8/6/2022 at 11:12 AM, Middcore said:

    I swear by Spigen cases. 


    I'm pretty much split between the Otterbox Commuter and the Spigen Tough Armor, but leaning strongly toward the Otterbox (in part due to some reviews I saw saying it was a bit more protective / tougher than the Spigen).  I would have bought a Commuter at a T-Mobile store the other day, but when I got there (was nearby anyway) it turned out they didn't have any in stock, even though the website indicated they might have a few left.  I was looking at ordering online the previous day, and it looked like it would take at least a week or two just to ship it and I don't want to wait that long.  (And I don't want to get a cheap case to tide me over then replace it with a better case when it's available, that would be just extra $ spent that should just go for the right case in the first place.)

    On 8/11/2022 at 10:47 AM, dizmo said:

    Pretty much any case is going to protect your phone. People worry about rugged cases too much. Very few people actually need them.


    Also I want the case to pretty much protect against anything I could ever throw at it, or throw IT at, or run it over with, or whatever.

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