zool

Julian's mad skills are spot on as a diagram, this is how i did it. Obviously you would have your power led + & -wires going to the button as well I got my locking switch from maplin. I also got a momentary vandal switch from there too (for a different project), but it doesn't have illumination. The second vandal switch you linked is still locking, so it won't work unfortunately. this is the sort you need, http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6100/ele-273/Red_Illuminated_Vandal_Resistant_Momentary_Switch_-_22mm_-_Black_Housing_-_Ring_Illumination.html?tl=g52 and in this one's case, if you look at the pinout diagram, you would use the "NO" pin, for normally open (think of it like a joystick button) and the Led + & - pins respectively. Also if you're not confident about soldering you could use this http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11094/ele-745/ModSmart_28mm_Vandal_Resistant_Switch_Wire_Harness_-_4_x_2-Pin_Power_Switch_and_LED_-_Wire-SWT-28.html?id=KicwkvoT#blank you'll still have to solder in the key lock, but it will save some of the headache

There's two problems with the hardware you linked: the locking key is double pole, meaning it has two switches inside controlled by the key. you want a single pole. A dp switch can be used. but single pole is what you're meant to be using. The illuminated push button is locking, you don't want a locking switch, you want a push to make switch aka a momentary switch. I did this, but used my original power button, just cut one of the wires running to the "original" button and solder in the key switch Hope this helps

make sure to have plenty of ventilation, wood insulates the heat in

i use http://www.todo-backup.com/

wooden case in signature, still going strong. No regrets or concerns for safety working on another in full atx size using wood

pins 1,2,3,5 and 9 are easy peasy It's the ones carrying SENSE_SEND, PRESENSE#, SENSE1_RETURN and SENSE2_RETURN that i don't know about, the descriptions help slightly but not enough. Can I just leave them out???

Thanks, that seems like an expensive way to rip the bit out that i need though. Worse comes to worse it's a viable option! I was thinking get a couple of these stereo mini jacks then figure out the wiring. But there's my problem

Hey, I'm making another custom PC case, this time i want front panel audio and mic jacks. I'm good with soldering so it shouldn't be a problem. But I'm having troubles finding out how to wire it on the net. Anyone have experience with this? Thanks, zool

I work with acrylic a lot, I can't recommend a heat gun for sheets as it's up to you to direct the heat. The bender in that video only costs about £20 to make. If you're serious about doing this, do it properly! Good luck!

I only had a quick google, don't quote me on it lol!

check the temperatures properly. "hot enough to pull back fast" is not the correct temp testing method! Having a google, that card even overclocked it shouldn't be above 30 degrees C

I think anodized aluminium should be sanded back as best as possible to bare metal. Like redwulf says, it replaces the material on top (kinda) so getting rid of the old stuff will allows a better bond. As for the logo,http://www.seeklogo.com has nearly every logo available in the world, in a format that is good for laser engraving. If you're going all this way to do it properly, then might as well get it CO2 lasered as well! good luck!

just trace the lines like you did when you were little! flip the template upside down and draw over the lines with a pencil. flip it back on to the metal and trace again. then go over it with a permanent marker Hope this helps!

is the PCI riser cable going to reach all that way?