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DakTannon

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Everything posted by DakTannon

  1. I am curious about 5k but until it uses one cable I am skeptical but I can tell you 2 Titan X's are great for 4k I could have told you how 3 performed if I hadn't received one with a nonfunctional sli finger. I have to say WORST RMA experience EVER I am never buying from Nvidia directly AGAIN I will use EVGA or ASUS
  2. Thanks if I make a dedicated LAN rig then I will turn this into a 900D all water cooled stay at home kinda rig
  3. Here is a shot with the side panel on sorry about the blurriness but between the lexan's reflections and all the blue LED's my camera keeps freaking out now a little bit closer and clearer and btw that is my custom side panel delta fan controlled by speedfan no grill though so watch your finger ouch!!! Lol but the reason I skipped the fan grill is most of the noise the deltas make comes from airflow turbulence and putting a grill near it makes it worse (sound like a vacuum with your hand covering the opening) And now a shot of the front panel and fan control once again sorry for the blurry blueness Let me know if you want me to take it outside to get better light or if there was a particular shot inside or out that you would like to see better or that I didn't cover
  4. Here is a shot of the basement rad with 2 120mm deltas in push for 5.0 ghz (controlled by front panel controller) and 2 koolance 120mm led fans in pull for the usual 4.6 ghz (controlled by motherboard) to show you just how close the power supply is one of the reasons I chose it was that thermaltake makes of the smallest reliable psu's in a 1200w variant here is a shot some of the crazy hose bending I had to do to connect the bottom rad to the rest of the loop and with the side panel on it is nice an out of site (once again sorry about the dust)
  5. After I ditched the h220 rad I needed a res so I bought the smallest one I could find and squeezed between the ceiling rad and the side panel and hang it from 2 screws through the ceiling hex mesh with rubber vibration dampened (needed to do some Dremel'ing though) just barely fits also now that I finished the Rma for my RAM I put the light bars back in you can also see 2 of the 4 delta fans (all in push configuration) I use for my 5.0ghz overclock that are controlled by my front panel the other 2 are on the bottom of the rad in the floor of the case You can also see the single 120mm rad I have in the rear in a push configuration with a koolance blue led 120mm fan (controlled by motherboard) turning the exhaust into an intake it turns out the top of the case exhausts sooooooo much it suffocate the exhaust fan (especially with the deltas active) the configuration actually lowers cpu temps in all modes. It is also the only fan that is plugged into the cpu fan header and scales it's speed based on cpu temps the others are all set to a constant 1400 rpm cause even with prime 95 at 4.6ghz there is no need for them to spin faster to stay in the mid to low 60 range in a and are conditioned room (at 5.0ghz I set all the koolance fans to run at the full 2200rpm)
  6. Here are some random shots of inside the case, and you can just barely see one of the 2 koolance 120mm blue led fans in pull (controlled by the motherboard) on top of the ceiling rad this is kinda crazy but I put my Samsung 840 ssd back here (upper right hand corner) behind the fan controller that takes up 2 5.25 bays and there is room for one more lol even have the wiring routed already
  7. Now this pic is after I ditch my h100i for an h220 (see page 1 for a pic from that time period) which I ditched for my own custom loop lol sorry in advance my room has terrible lighting this is with the lights on flash on this is with the lights on flash off
  8. Wow it is amazing how much things change I was looking at one of my old threads and found a pic of my computer when I first assembled it I forgotten it ever looked so empty lol that was when I still had my 850w psu a physx gtx 660 and an h 100 I wow seems sooooooo long ago you can also sort of see the active fan that is being suffocated by the titans here is a better shot you can also see here how the vrm is connected by a heat pipe to the Southbridge fan
  9. How are they leak wise when you disconnect I was thinking of getting those for my current setup cause installing and removing the loop is quite complicated the rads have to go in and come out in a specific order and a really complicated manner since i have to install all three rads pump and res assembled do to lack of accessibility
  10. Hey that MO RA3 420 is pretty cool maybe in the future I'll get some quick disconnects and make so I could remove it whenever I want (easier to go to Lans) but for the mean time since I just bought my Samsung ud590d ($623) like a month ago all the cash i blew on the steam summer sale ($???) and my OR DK2 ($372) should be shipping in the next month I don't really wanna blow $700 min just to cool my already cool enough computer I mean even at 5.0 ghz my cpu never goes above 73c and my titans don't go about 76c even while gaming at 4k maybe after Christmas
  11. Nice Wow nice rig man I like your rad placement what kind of temps are you getting on your cpu and gpu? Alas unfortunately the reason I didn't get a case like the sma8 is I love to go to LAN parties and i drive a miata a full tower like that or the 900D would NEVER fit in my car not even on the passenger seat.I don't really care about noise (mine is quiet enough at idle for me and in gaming my audio setup and AC are louder) but even if I did unfortunately nocturnal fans won't cut it for my rig my led fans have almost twice that static pressure of nff12 and 90 cfm also my stage 2 fans (used for 5 ghz in no AC environments) for the top and bottom rads are deltas with with 12 mmh2o and 150cfm like 5 times the static pressure of nff12. Since all my rads having 30 FPI so I need that static pressure and airflow to keep my 5.0ghz overclock stable even in poorly climate controlled LANS where all the computers are making it hotter indoors than outdoors. Also in that situation when the titans get warm they can heat up the rads they are sitting next to because if their aluminum construction so the fans need to compensate for that too when the situation occurs
  12. Wow that's a LOT of rads I'm glad I didn't go that route thanks for the heads up
  13. To answer you question first I using for 4k gaming(gets 60 fps in crysis 3 2xmsaa shadows :high eveything else very high), game streaming, recording let's plays, video editing (and soon to be editing 4k videos) and i wanted to start learning 3d design. As far as psu I'm running a thermaltake SP-1200M great psu had it since my 2 way sli setup and not as much as a hiccup out it even at my 5.0ghz and with the titans over clocked +100 mhz gpu clock with 150 mhz memory(most of the time I run at 4.6ghz with the titans at stock speed) As far as cooling goes this setup is working fine now i don't care about quiet i really only was considering water cooling to keep my titans from heating up my Southbridge and vrm. Now that I added the delta it keeps the Southbridge and VRM cool and keeps my overclock stable. It also delivers enough air to the titans, at max the fan can deliver 150 CFM @ 12 mmh2o which is never necessary(no grill watch you fingers lol) 70% is usually way more than enough and it is quieter than my air conditioning (which NEEDS to be on while I am gaming to deal with the heat this thing puts out). When I'm not gaming the side panel fan goes down to around 800-1400 depending on whether I am using hardware acceleration. In my idle times and this delta is quiet at those speeds lol at least quieter than the 8 koolance pressure optimized led fans running at 1400 rpm (max 2200 rpm with 90 CFM @ 4.1 mmh2o) and it still fits in my car And sure I will take more pics but keep in mind I have dusted it out in 3 weeks and because of all the air flow dust collects FAST lol it is the never ending struggle
  14. Lol thanks I appreciate it it took me more than a year and a half to build and tune it to run flawlessly
  15. Here is how it looks now that I added an extra 240 rad for the cpu and the 4th titan for a 4way sli setup and here is how it looks with the lexan window with a hole cut for my 120mm delta 4000 rpm 150cfm pwm fan controlled by speed fan linked to the gpu in the first slot as well as the Southbridge temps (got some light scratches from wiping off finger prints gonna try headlight restore)
  16. You may not NEED a 750 ti for physx but it can definitely help in some games not many but these are games you like it can matter check this out. http://alienbabeltech.com/main/using-maxwells-gtx-750-ti-dedicated-physx-card/3/ Also old gpu don't always make good physx cards unless they have high clock speeds cause clock speeds matter slightly more than Cuda cores in physx calculations. In boarderlands 2 I have tried using titan sli split up with on card rendering and one card physx and i got better performance out of my old setup with a single titan and a gtx 660sc as dedicated physx titan with 2688 Cuda cores and gtx 660sc with around 960 but the titan has a base clock of 876 mhz where my evga 660 SC has a base clock of 1046mhz. Even though titan sli generates more fps in general every time physx effects happen framerates drop and jump all over the place and things look choppy and twitchy even with physx at medium
  17. I think it is possible it all depends on the games I was able to get tomb raider and bioshock infinite to run on 1 titan just by tweaking the settings (unreal enginge is quite forgiving and beautiful in 4k) and 770sli is more powerful (aroun40-50%) than a single titan and sardis is right turn off all AA even Fxaa with 4k that is a killer even with my 4way titan sli if I am really lucky I can get fxaa or 2xmsaa but I drop from 60fps to 45-55 and the image improvement is unnoticeable unless you are less than 12 inches from the screen
  18. STAY AWAY from evga's pro bridges if you want to go 4k they casue flickering and massive vertical tearing just bought a samung u28d590d and i thought i had a bad monitor then turn off sli and it stopped flickering and tearing them i switched all 4 of my cards in and out one at a time only to find out it was the sli bridge all together i have 2-4way 3-3way 6-2way from all my previous motherboards and only the two evga pros 1-3way and 1-4way evga cause this problem they seem to be fine for 1080p and 1440p even when using the Samsung monitor just not full 4k they do look nice i am sad to have to retire mine
  19. just so everyone knows I found what was causing the flickering it was my sli bridge DO NOT buy the evga Pro sli bridges with the L.E.D.'s they will cause massive flickering and vertical tearing when couple with this 4k monitor I can verify that both the 3way and 4 way bridges cause this problem cause I own one of each i switched to a standard sli bridge and problem solved it is probably the the LED's causing interference and it only shows up in 4k 1080p and 1440p run fine with no sign of this problem btw post processing of any kind aggravates the issue drastically
  20. I will probably buy a 900D for may next build one that can just stay in my room how do you like it btw
  21. I mounted a pwm delta fan on b the side panel to blow air on the Southbridge works great and helps cool the titans also win win for 40 bucks and with pwm I can turn down to like 800 rpm but when temps rise speed fan can crank it as high as necessary
  22. lol it has been almost a year since I made this post and I have learned a lot and my rig looks nothing like that pic anymore and sorry in advance I am lazy and hate punctuating sentences lol okay first I have found that the memory controller is what makes my cpu not be able to push my memory much past 1866 9, 10, 9, 27, not corsairs fault lol and pushing past that (I did manage to get 2133 cas11 but 1866 cas 9 is equal to or faster tthan 2133 cas 11 in games) makes it so I have trouble even reaching 4.8 ghz try first down clocking your memory to1866 then try for 5.0 again oh yeah and you NEED water cooling I got 4.8 ghz on air but was impossible to go further on air next if that doesn't help this what I did to get 5.0 ghz, (this is just to give you an idea of the characteristics of my chip choose your voltages at you own discretion) for me the outer limits is 5.1 ghz but it is very temperature dependant it has to be in a room with AC on at full blast with all the fans and pumps in the rig at full tilt, now how I got 5.0 ghz is I started with the default auto 5.0 profile tune in the bios and made some tweaks it turns out the 3930k runs much cooler with out hyperthreading so if i turn that off I can use as little as 1.435v for 5.0ghz but it becomes very sensitive to temps at that freq both high and low if the cpu is below 44c at the bios screen I need it to be at 1.445v or below or it wont post but once it post at 1.435v-1.445 no HT my cpu can't go above 70 or 75c or it will crash at 1.455v to 1.465v my cpu temps can go into 80 to 85c range with no crashing but it you have to warm up the cpu by leaving at bios for a while until it is between 45c and 50c or turning the pump and fans down at startup and turning them up later or doing a burn in test at a lower feq before hand to warm up the water in my loop (hyperthreading does help the cpu warmup during startup but requires min 1.455v to run on my cpu and will cause at least 10 c or more heat output at max load) tricky part with the 5ghz is temp control the cooler the cpu Is at idle or startup the less voltage I need cause electric resistence is decreased by the lower temps but it give you also lower max threashold (2-3c lower at idle can cost 10c-15c at the upper end limit) so now you have less room to stably operate in so now the hardest part is cooling the chip under load so have a really good water loop fith rather crazy fans unless you live somewhere cold all year round just so you know I retired the H100i a while a go for a custom loop so that my 5.0ghz could be stable even in non air conditioned rooms but it is extreme I have 2x 240mm x 30mm koolance 30fpi rads and a single 120mm x 30mm koolance 30fpi rad and an apogee drive 2 just to cool the cpu no graphics cards in the loop at all and fan wise I have 5 koolance 12025mled in pull (2200rpm 90cfm 4mmh2o) and 4 delta ffb1212eh-f00 in push this will keep my cpu under 75c even with prime 95 running, btw the reason for the mismatch is for 4.6ghz and 4.8 ghz the deltas are off to cut down the noise (and they don't obstuct airflow enough to be quantifiable I tested with them turned off and removed no difference) but on hot days and for 5.0ghz I turn them on for their overkill static pressure of 12.43 mmh2o with 150cfm but they are VERY LOUD so I turn them down to around 2500 rpm still noisy though the pwm versions would be a smarter buy casue they can be turned down to 800 rpm and can be made silent now I do not use this overclock 24/7 only for extreme gaming in games that are poorly threaded/optimized and are cpu dependent and even though it is stable in almost any surrounding once running the temperate of the room can effect the voltage you need so it can be a bit of a chore if you take it with you like I do so if you wanna set and forget that may not be possible cause this is bleeding edge overclocking for this chip without LN2 or some other form of sub zero cooling like peltier so it will probably always need a little fiddling from time to time
  23. Hey linus just got my monitor in and I noticed a weird sort of tearing it only seem to happen when there is a lot of blue or white on screen and can turn into flickering if there is enough on screen at once btw it happen over displayport 4k@ 60 hz I notice it happens only at higher framerates above 40 on graphically demanding games or benches like heaven 4.0 btw it is affected by the color setting both in the nvidia drivers and on the monitor the brighter and mor vibrant the worse it gets
  24. Getting mine today can't wait to try it
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