Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...

AkshayRao27

Member
  • Content Count

    52
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Awards


This user doesn't have any awards

About AkshayRao27

  • Title
    Member
  • Birthday 1990-04-27

Contact Methods

  • Battle.net
    LuciferHawk#21225
  • Reddit
    TheAce0
  • Twitter
    AkshayRao27

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Vienna, Austria
  • Occupation
    PhD Student

System

  • GPU
    Nvidia GTX 965M
  • Keyboard
    SteelSeries
  • Mouse
    Logitech G602

Recent Profile Visitors

420 profile views
  1. Thanks! So I could just use this diagram for reference, correct? There are a few differences though: This chart shows the CPU power connector (MoBo end) having an 8 pin EPS + 4 Pin ATX connector. My BitFenix has just an 8 pin connector for the CPU. The GPU connector (GPU end) in the chart has an 8 pin PCIe + 6 Pin PCIe. My BitFenix has two 6+2 pin connectors on the GPU end. How do I handle these two cables? Do I just follow the Corsair Type 4 pinout when I make the cables? Would that work? This would be my preferred pinout actually, since my GPU has an 8 pin and 4 pin connector and the GPU has an 8 pin and 6 pin connector.
  2. I was just about finished looking for all the pins and connectors I would need to make custom sleeved cables for my BitFenix Whisper M 650W PSU. I want to make cables for the MoBo, GPU, CPU, my three Splitty4s and Quadro (all Molex Connectors) This is my first time making custom sleeved cables. Where can I find information about the pinouts and which cable should go where for my PSU? I've been watching a lot of videos about this from Singularity Computers and have collected all the tools and parts I would need. Also, I had a poke around on their website and found that they have some electrical components in the 24 Pin connector. Is it safe to make cables without those transistor-like-thingies? Their Alchemy cables don't seem to have those components. I would've just bought the Alchemy cables, but this is something I would really like to do and learn
  3. Sorry to necro an ancient thread, but I tried this. I used Plastidip (an Austrian local equivalent, actually) so I didn't have to mask the blades and could simply peel the film off once it dried. Here's the finished product. I am very dissatisfied with the paint job. I wouldn't pay for something of this quality. However, the caveat here is that this is the absolute first time I've tried this. I've never worked with Plastidip before and I've never tried painting PC parts. The problem with painting the frame is that you need to mask off the space between the rotor and the frame. Otherwise you risk getting paint in there and screwing all the electronics up. However, once you mask that gap, the fan blades won't move anymore when you paint. The result is a very uneven, patchy coat inside the frame. I suppose you could get around this in one of two ways. You either unmask, move the blades and spray every other coat or so, or you use acrylic paint and a paintbrush. I'm going to try painting with a paintbrush and report back.
  4. I'm putting together an all white themed build and need to paint / wrap a few parts to go along with the theme. I have zero experience with painting PC parts (but I have lots of experience with spray painting glass). I am located in Vienna, Austria so ordering from Amazon USA is not possible; several north-american brands aren't even available here. I can only order from Amazon DE or some local shop if I know what to look for. I need to recolour the following parts: The Cooler Master Vertical GPU Riser The front plate of the Heatkiller GPU block The black parts (not the transparent reservoir itself) of the Heatkiller Tube 150 D5 (I am getting the aluminium struts so I won't have to paint those) The frames of the Corsair ML120 Pro RGB Fans (I won't disassemble the fans - I will mask the blades completely and only spray the frame; I read someone here dismantled them and then the fans didn't work anymore) HW Labs GTS 360 (the white ones aren't available unfortunately, so I'll have to paint the black ones) I did a quick search on Amazon DE and found a few white cans, but I wanted to check with more knowledgeable people before I bought anything. Would any of these work? Primer: Edding, Sprayson, Deco Colour Paint: Edding, Dupli-Colour, Deco Colour, Montana, Belton, Spray.Bike I know there are some sort of plastics that can't be painted for some reason - I guess the only way to recolour these would be to wrap them in Vinyl? Are there any types of Vinyl that are commonly used for PC parts? I only know of 3M. Thanks
  5. That looks really nice. I'm going for the same sort of layout, but with a vertical GPU. Are those cable extensions (if so, which ones?) or did you make them yourself? I'm considering making custom cables... I intend to order 3 meters of tubes. Considering I have zero experience, do you reckon that's enough? Which rads are those? I was looking into the Radiator Roundup by Xtremerigs and it seems that the MagiCool 360 G2 Slim is a good contender and cheaper than the GTS 360. Would you happen to know anything about that one?
  6. Damn that looks dope. Do you have more pictures of your build? I didn't realise TG meant Tempered Glass Okay, good. I'll do that then. Just gotta figure out how to put everything together with rigid tubes - don't want to start bending till I have things planned out.
  7. I did, actually. I'm not a huge fan of that aesthetic unfortunately I have an X570 Taichi - I'm not sure if there are enough fan headers for all the fans and RGB. Plus, I've I've read that the Aquacomputer software suite is very advanced and super comprehensive. Having a single software drive everything would be amazing. I have a 2070 Super and a 3700X. Are there any other rads you would recommend? I've only ever looked into HW Labs since they're mostly quite highly acclaimed. I meant painting the top and bottom of the res, not the actual fluid holder (I can see why "tube" would be confusing here - that's just what Heatkiller calls their reservoirs. I was actually planning to give the tubes a frosted look - still need to look into tutorials about that though I have a heatgun, several saws and several sandpapers. Won't the reamer be enough since I'm working with acrylic? I also plan to make a wooden board with several angles so I can get the bends right (like the one V Aesthetic's videos) According to Mr. Tear Apart, it does. Nope - those are in there only for price comparisons. If you look at the quantity column, one of them has "0". I was trying to min-max prices and shipping costs. I initially had the EK loop connect in my list but I had a bunch of people recommend the Aquacomputer suite over EK's and Corsair's systems. The suite seems to be more advanced and comprehensive with loads to learn, which is why I decided to go down that route. I have a 3700X & 2070 Super So should I build inside the PC and then take everything out or would it be okay to build the loop on my desk and let it run for a while be okay? I could build the loop with basically straight tubes all over the place and then take it apart and paint the components if they are fine. I'm not sure what you mean by the edges of the TG panels
  8. I spent the past few weeks researching all of the parts I would need and finally put a parts list together with prices and links of the shops I can buy everything from. I'd be grateful if anyone who has time could do a bit of a review: Parts List Excel (Feel free to edit / add comments). Is there something I'm missing? Should I buy something different? Are there other vendors with better prices I should look at? (I am in Vienna, Austria) I'm going to be OC-ing stuff and I want to try and put together a build that's as quite as possible. I will be building in the very stereotypical White O11D. I want to have as white of a build as I can - I'll be painting the radiators, fans frames (9x Corsair ML120 Pro RGB), CPU block mounting mechanism & GPU block front. I'd like to paint the Heatkiller Tube as well, but I'm not sure if it's been before and I'm not sure how to do it! I want to try and keep my runs as "fitting-free" as I can. This is why I have only two 90° fittings (though I might buy a couple more, just in case I need them). Being my first build, I will no doubt get things wrong but I am really excited about learning complex bends! In case it's relevant, I'll be putting 3 intake fans on the bottom, one rad up top and another on the side.
  9. Noted. I'll spend some time masking the fans. Thanks everyone ^^
  10. Sorry, but not very helpful, honestly. I already mentioned that I have a bunch of ML fans - no reason to buy an entire set of new ones. I don't plan to paint the fans! Didn't you read the post? I only want to paint the frame ._.
  11. I am planning to put a fully white build together and will be painting my Rads white. I already have several Corsair ML120 Pro RGB fans and would like to paint their frames white (I don't care about painting the fan blades - only the frames). I know it's possible to take some fans apart and put them back together, but I haven't been able to find any guides for the ML120. Does anyone know if it can be done safely?
  12. Holy $hit thank you I have no idea how I didn't find that!
  13. Good to know! Thanks! I know - just by looking at the two it seems the Octo can take 8 fans as against the 4 fans that the quadro can take. But I don't know if there are any other differences. More importantly, I don't know if I can daisy chain 3 ML 120s on my top rad and plug them into fan header 1 and then daisy chain the 3 fans on my bottom rad and plug them into fan header 2 - if this is possible, the Quadro should be enough. If I need to plug 6 fans into 6 separate headers though, then I'll need an Octo, obviously. This is what I was looking for - thank you! Can those fans be controlled? Can you set a custom curve for those fans? I haven't seen any chipset waterblocks so I'm not sure if that's an options. I read up a bit and it seems that the Octo ships with a temp sensor so I assume it can control fans based on coolant temps. I didn't know that bit about the flow meters. Thanks! Understood. I'm still on the fence about putting the 2070 S under water - the general opinion seems to be that it doesn't make much sense from a performance perspective and that I shouldn't bother with a water block unless I have a 2080 S, 2080 Ti or a higher-end 30XX card.
  14. This will be my first custom loop and I'm itching to dive straight into the deep end. I am building the PC in Vienna, Austria. I want to play around with OC-ing everything and would like to have a build that is as silent as reasonably possible I updated my initial parts list based on feedback from r/watercooling and this is what it looks like now. Type Item Price Distro Plate+Reservoir+Pump EK-Classic DP Side PC-O11D G1 D-RGB + DDC 3.2 PWM €231.83 2x Radiators Black Ice Nemesis radiator GTS 360 €144.80 CPU Blocka EK-Quantum Velocity D-RGB - AMD Nickel + Plexi €100.74 GPU Block Heatkiller IV for RTX 2080 - Acryl Ni RGB €144.95 GPU Backplate B-Stock Heatkiller IV eBC for RTX 2080 - Black €24.95 6x Fans Corsair ML Pro RGB 120mm €166.39 2x Tubing Packs Bykski B-YKLWP, 500mm Acrylic Hard Tubes 500mm (2pcs) €7.32 Coolant EK-CryoFuel Clear (Concentrate 100mL) €6.96 14x Straight Fittings Barrow TFYKN2-T14 - Black €34.02 2x 90° Fittingsb Barrow TWT90KND-K14 - Black €10.72 Controllerc Aquacomputer OCTO €55.36 Loop Totald After shipping & discounts €944.01 a: EK has a Monoblock for my MoBo that costs €141.07. Is it worth getting? Would the additional VRM cooling help with OC-ing? b: I noticed that the Barrow fittings are made of brass - would this be a problem? From what I understand the water shouldn't be coming into contact with the fittings, so there shouldn't be an issue with any Copper/Brass interactions. c: What's the difference between the Octo and the Quadro? Just the number of fans I can hook up? I choose the Octo since I have 6 fans. I am not sure if the ML120s can be daisy chained and plugged into the Quadro. Do I need a separate RGB controller? d: Are there any other parts I should be buying either for the loop like temp sensors, flow meters, etc? I will pick up some cheap mandrels and tools from AliExpress of course! Here's my PC build. Type Item Price CPU AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor Purchased For €305.00 Motherboarde Gigabyte X570 AORUS ELITE ATX AM4 Motherboard €207.99 @ Mindfactory Memory G.Skill Trident Z Neo 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory Purchased For €120.45 Storage Crucial P1 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive €111.85 @ Amazon De Video Cardf NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB Video Card Purchased For €500.00 Case Lian Li PC-O11 Dynamic ATX Full Tower Case Purchased For €121.50 Power Supplyg Corsair RM (2019) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply €100.74 Total (PC)h €1,467.53 e: Is the Aorus Elite good enough for playing around with OCs or should I go for something different? f: got a bunch of comments saying that it makes very little sense water cooling a 2070 Super and that I shouldn't bother with water cooling the GPU till I've upgraded to a 2080 Super / Ti. I think that's a valid argument and I'll keep an eye out for a 2080 Super or Ti on the seconds market. This also got me thinking about my CPU (even though no one brought that up) - should I upgrade to something chonkier than the 3700X before I water cool it? Water block prices for the 2070 S and 2080 S shouldn't be massively different (and AFAIK blocks that work for the 3700X should also work for the 3900X, etc.), so I might as well include a these blocks in my watercooling "wish list" and save up accordingly. Are there any arguments in favour of water cooling my 2070 S / 3700X? g: 750W should be enough to power everything. Is there any reason to consider something more powerful with a higher efficiency rating? h: Where is a good place to get some of those dope braided cables? I only know of CableMod thanks to Linus. Thanks y'all
  15. I'm about to start buying components for my PC (I'm building in Vienna AUT, but I'll be sourcing some components incl. RAM from USA) and am having trouble making some decisions. I intend to play around with OC-ing everything, basically. Not necessarily because I need the performance, but really just because it's something I enjoy. I will also be building a custom loop with two 360 rads, so OC-heat shouldn't be a big deal. There will be copious RGB that I would like to sync up and all that. RAM: Logically, 2x16 GB leaves room for me to add 2 more 16 GB sticks in the future if I need them. The only advantage I can see of 4x8GB is that it'll fill all the slots out and look nicer. Does one config perform better than the other? Are there any good reasons to prefer either config? MoBo: I've been thinking about the Aorus Pro but I've heard the Taichi is worth considering as well (the debug LEDs definitely make it quite lucrative). Is there any reason to choose one over the other other than the debug LEDs? I looked into MoBo blocks from EK and neither of those boards are supported - that might just have been one of the deciding factors, but I guess not ¯\_(ツ)_/¯. Are there any other MoBos I should consider? Are there any other components you would recommend changing? Here's the build CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor (Purchased for €305.00) Motherboard: Gigabyte X570 AORUS PRO ATX AM4 Motherboard (€267.22 @ Amazon DE) Memory: G.Skill Trident Z Neo 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory ($189.99-$50.00 Gift Card @ Amazon US) (€126.94) Storage: Crucial P1 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($99.99 @ Adorama) (€90.67) Video Card: EVGA GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB BLACK GAMING Video Card ($509.99 @ Amazon US) (€462.46) Case: Lian Li PC-O11 Dynamic ATX Full Tower Case (Purchased for €121.50) Power Supply: Corsair RM (2019) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply (€100.74 @ Amazon DE) Total after currency conversions: €1,474.53
×