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Everything posted by royalba94

  1. Cool, Thanks! So no issues using different types of devices in it? That was my main concern.
  2. Anybody have experience using one of these M.2 M-key to PCIe x4 adapters? https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAE8G67X8704&cm_re=M.2_Key_M_to_PCIe_x4_Extender_Cable_Adapter--9SIAE8G67X8704--Product https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAC5C70U2513&cm_re=m.2_x4_pcie_adapter--9SIAC5C70U2513--Product My hope is that I could use something like this to add another RAID/HBA/10G card to my mobo as it is mostly out of slots (only remaining are an x1 and a disabled x8) Any tricks to getting them working? Thanks! P.S. I looked at the other sub-forums but didn't really find one that seemed to fit this question, sorry if I'm wrong
  3. Rough You'll probably be pretty happy with the Ultrawide that you listed, esp. since it's got the higher refresh rate and freesync which will be nice for gaming since your card can take advantage of them
  4. Based on those 3 choices personally I'd probably go for the 32in 4K one. BUT having said that I would definitely recommend looking into a 3440x1440 34"+ ultrawide - I've got the Acer x34 myself and I love it if there isn't a higher resolution ultrawide in your price range (seems like LG might have some options) then since it's mainly gaming it'd be worth considering the ultrawide - personally I prefer a bit denser PPI on my monitors tho.
  5. i'm interested to see what other people say about this as well as I have similar questions (only mine's an i7 960 w/12gb ram lol) As for the network card, a transfer speed of 10MB/s (mega-byte) in windows works out to about 80Mb/s (mega-bit) so sounds about right for the speeds you'd be getting using an old 100Mb/s NIC. Assuming your switches/router aren't a bottleneck then I believe getting a 1Gb/s NIC would help increase the transfer speeds. in ideal situations it'd be close to a 10x increase in transfer speed (10MB/s to 100MB/s) but that depends on if you have any other bottlenecks. Hopefully that helps!
  6. Bought a few 4k monitors at 23.6in size (Acer K242HQKbmjdp) a few years ago - promised myself I'd never do that again because the lots of programs don't support scaling properly or at all and the ones that don't scale at all are a royal pain to use since they end up so small. And not to mention that setting the resolution to 1080p on the monitors resulted in a somewhat blurry picture that was almost more annoying. So that's probably why there isn't more of them - 1440p at 24in is as dense as I'll go for desktop monitors
  7. The Heaphone amp says that it is powered though so shouldn't it work? if it doesn't then maybe an easy fix would be a portable headphone amp and an adapter. Adapter (needs to be this type, not the ones for separating mic and headphone): https://www.amazon.com/YCS-Basics-Splitter-combining-sources/dp/B00EA8QUTS/ Portable amp: https://www.amazon.com/A1-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B01LYYKP29/ As for 1/4in to 3.5mm adapters one pack of these will have it sorted for both units: https://www.amazon.com/VizGiz-Converter-Amplifier-Headphone-Earphones/dp/B077DTZ5T5/ Or if he needs more cables anyway then maybe a few of these: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMS-110-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O35/ Either way I'll be interested to see what @FRNND_P works out
  8. Sounds like the boot partition/section on the drive got corrupted to me - has happened a few times when I'm building systems and the only fix I've done is a new windows install/clone. If you have data (documents etc.) you want to keep from it I'd plug it into another computer and copy it off to another drive first and then do a full clean install just for completeness sake. Good luck!
  9. I've been happy with my Cherry brown Strafe RGB (the OG one, not v2) esp. after I added some dampening O-rings to further reduce the noise. Only negative about it is that the included "special" WASD and moba keys grey plastic comes off the caps sometimes which is a bit inconvenient in the middle of a match - normal keys are still holding up well tho
  10. Out of AM4 vs 2066 I'd definitely go 2066 in your case as there are more PCIe lanes and everything. I see no problem running dual channel and then adding a couple more sticks later on. yes - Depends on the timings, you want low CAS latency combined with high MHz, a lot of the time the "faster" sets will have higher MHz but also higher CAS latency which essentially makes them the same speed as "slower" MHz sets with lower latecy. back when I got my ram I settled for DDR4 3000 with CL14 as the best speed for the money - You'll probably be fine with 32GB unless your audio application uses a lot of RAM. If you're looking at a high end board and want to use so many PCIe devices then I'd actually steer you towards a board like the ASUS X299 WS SAGE since it's got 7x PCIe slots which you could use later on if you did end up watercooling the RAID and GPU to make them single-slot. it also has a Thunderbolt header if you want to add a Thunderbolt add-in card. (it does have one type-c port like your current mobo - it's USB 3.1 gen2 like yours. I you most likely have no use for actual thunderbolt ports currently) Also using this board you for the most part won't have to worry about things like SATA ports being disabled because of the onboard PLX chip. I'd still recommend getting a 44-lane CPU tho eventually. I've loved having an NVME drive as my OS drive so I'd go for the NVME drives. I'd probably keep the RAID card though and still use those other drives for a quick scratch drive in adobe or something tho. I agree. However some brief research into the programs he'll be using (thx to Puget Systems) they do tend to favor higher frequency/IPC rather than just more cores so he might actually benefit more from X299 for the faster speeds. As Sakkura mentioned there is not Thunderbolt currently available on TR4 but I don't think that would be a big deal as he's likely not using it currently (his current mobo doesn't have it)
  11. Looks like there is a hotkey for enabling/disabling the Live commentary (CTRL+L) as well as one for mute/unmute (CTRL+M) so most likely you'd be able to set up a Macro for that. If you have an android phone (even just an extra with wifi) there is a cool and free software called DeckBoard that you can setup macros in - a lot like the Stream Deck Another good and free tool is VoiceMeeter Banana which you can set a noise gate and other stuff for your mic input (before it goes to the elgato software) which will help with the background noise as well (and you can set the Push-to-talk in it) If you need links to setup vids on them or have questions I should be able to at least point you in the right direction if not answer myself
  12. You know I was gonna say a bunch of stuff but I think you've got the solution already The Mixer will be for the headphones and the Micro-Amp should work for the Mic There are some other ways you can do this but I think this is the most elegant hardware solution. If the three devices are all PCs then you could use some cool (and free) software but there would be setup time and if you run into issues it would probably be worth the $50 for the reliability of a hardware solution.
  13. Streaming direct from the PS4 or via a computer? If computer which software?
  14. Correct. Unless you get a PWM splitter/hub or a separate fan controller the splitters are very inexpensive and if you don't need individual control of the fans you are adding are the quickest and easiest route. If your CPU cooler has two fans on it that are using those headers then I'd recommend getting a 1x to 2x PWM splitter to connect both CPU fans to and then you'll have the SYS_FAN header available for your new fans. A couple of these would work: https://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-System-Cables-Black-CPF04/dp/B00B46XKKQ/
  15. There are 2 PWM fan headers on that board - one at the top marked CPU_FAN and the other at the bottom left of the socket (next to the NIC) marked SYS_FAN
  16. Any workloads or use case specifics that would help recommendations? if it's just general use I can't think you'd see much of a difference in performance to justify the cost...
  17. Ah, forgot to address that - I've had several Red Pro drives and they are not much (if any) louder than any other drives I've used so I don't think you'd need to worry about the noise esp. since you're putting them in a Define R5 which is pretty good at managing noise. I'll listen to them again tonight when I get home to be sure but I'm pretty confident the fans are louder than the drives.
  18. If you want 4K and 144Hz then there are only really 2 options I know of: Asus ROG SWIFT PG27UQ Acer Predator X27 Both are about as spendy as monitors go but tick all the right boxes - both of these monitors are IPS, 4K resolution, and support 144Hz. Personally when I look for a monitor the main thing I worry about is that it's an IPS panel as the colors and viewing angles are so much better than TN in my opinion. Other than that a nice adjustable stand and/or smaller bezels is always good but less important imo.
  19. I would get the pro for a few reasons: Faster RPM and larger cache so it'll be more responsive more TB for the future better warranty than standard red (3yr vs 5yr) So in short if they are about the same price I'd say the Pro wins every time even if it was the same capacity
  20. Thx for the suggestion! This is an interesting idea tho since I already have a block that'll work for a 1070/1080 I figured I'd just trade for one of those since then I don't have to worry about getting a block too - tho if I can just do a straight trade for a different 980ti with a waterblock already then that's an option
  21. Hey all! Been a while since I've hung around here on the forum so forgive me if I'm in the wrong place. As the title says, I'm trying to analyze my options for watercooling my zotac 980ti - bitspower apparently made a block for it at one point but I can't find anywhere to buy it And before anyone asks why I want to watercool it since it has such a great cooler already I'll answer that now - I want more quiet. I've got an EK Predator on my CPU and all the rest of the parts I need to expand it to a full loop the only problem is the GPU. I have a GTX 1060 and an EKWB GTX 1080 block that will fit it but since I'm driving a Predator x34 monitor I'd like the better performance from the 980ti. ______________________________ So my options as I see it are thus: 1. Sell the EK block + backplate and universal block for the 980ti 2. Try and trade for a GTX 1070 or 1080 3. Sell the 980ti and deal with the 1060 until I can save enough for a 1080 Any thoughts or other options? I'd appreciate any input as I've been debating this for almost 2 weeks now... Thx!
  22. Thanks I'll have to admit I'm not sure what an SMB share is tho Is it where I'd use one box for all the storage and then the other would pull from the storage box over the network to do the media stuff? I googled it real quick but didn't come up with an easily understandable answer right off...
  23. Thx for the tip I'm mainly looking to see if I can re-use these old PCs I've got for this project with maybe a Case and PSU upgrade/swap. Hoping maybe I can use this as a Media Server too so yeah... Good point, thanks I'm not sure if it does or not but I'll be sure to check when I get a chance. That was pretty much my plan, I'm just in the begining stages of research on this and was hoping someone could point out any issues I might run into with these base components while I try and set up the solution I'm looking for. Also not sure if I need one box for the Backup/NAS stuff and the other for the Media Server stuff or if I can get away with just one since I hear the Media server duties can be quite demanding on the CPU...