vincent0143

Here are some pictures of the project: The enclosure still needs some work but it's getting there This picture shows the "bass reflex channel". Its not calculated but hey it works: This is the enclose in its current state: The alarm clock with a "mock display" and speakers: A screenshot of how a new alarm is created (this actually works already)

That would be the perfect solution. The problem is that the Windows IOT core is not supported by the hifiberry MiniAmp driver. Thank you for the great post! The only thing I don't understand is what you mean with making smaller parts. How would these parts communicate? I have a solution in visual studio which consists out of multiple projects. These projects each have a folder with classes which belong to a piece of functionality. Maybe that is what you mean? I will post some pictures of the project later today. The main progress lately is in the code so I will include some screenshots of the application

When my philips alarm clock radio broke I decided it would be a fun project to build my own alarm clock radio. The plan was to build the ultimate alarmclock. My ultimate alarmclock would at least have the following features: - internet radio because the FM reception is terrible here. - Time on a seven segment display - A buzzer - An additional 1,3" oled display for weather info and stuff - Much better sound quality than normal alarm clock radios - A rotary encoder with push button and two additional push buttons for menu navigation and general control Features to add in the future: - an RGB led to create a wakeup light thingy - 433mhz transmitter so it can remotely switch on devices - Act as a bluetooth speaker - webserver to easily add and manage alarms & settings The current state the project is in: - Rapberry pi running raspbian - Hifiberry miniAmp to power the speakers (The miniAmp has no hardware mixer so volume control is quite tricky) - Speakers of an old pair of PC speakers - wooden enclosure The hardware of the alarm clock is mostly done and is not too complicated. Where it gets complicated is the software. All of the hardware has to be connected to the Pi except for the seven segment and buzzer. I have very little experience with linux and even less with python. The ideal way to build this is to program an OS like code which runs continuously and handles all the inputs and outputs. The problem is that I don't really know where to start. I have written a little console application in C# which works great(with mono on the Pi), but isn't able to handle the in and outputs. Does anyone have a suggestion about the best way inputs and outputs can be controlled without python?

I would like to get the Razer Blade Stealth because then I would give my SSD to my girlfriend who still uses a slow HDD ;-)

Hi all, I have a laptop for school (Lenovo B50-80) with a 1366x768 screen. Would it be possible to upgrade the laptop to a 1920x1080 screen? There is a B50-80 model with a 1080p screen so I was wondering if a replacement screen for that model would work in my model. This is where I found the replacement LCD https://www.laptopscreen.com/English/model/IBM-Lenovo/B50-80~80EW02AAUS/

Just put a sheet of paper between the top fin and the fin right under the top fin and paint it any colour you like, you will get something like this (sorry for the shitty pic)

I want to replace the thermal pads on the vrm heatsinks of the msi z87 mpower, but what kind of thermal pads do I need and what size?

Hello Everyone I have this logitech bluetooth audio adapter and i'm very pleased with it in general. The only thing that really confuses me is that the "bluetooth audio" from my phone sounds way better than the "bluetooth audio" coming from my laptop. Is there an explanation and might there be some kind of fix for it?

Hello people of LTT! I just thought i'd share my build with you. This build started about a year ago when I finished my first build. After about a month I realised that this was a very bad looking build (IMO) so it didn't take long before I started torturing the Shinobi. I started by removing the 5,25'' and 3,5'' bays since in wasn't using an optical drive and was only using one HDD. the second change I made to the case was a large sidepanel window. The window itself is made from a 4mm glass sheet which caused a problem with the hyper 212 evo I tried to install. The cooler was to tall to fit with the window installed so I replaced it for the smaller TX3. With the 3,5'' drive bays removed I had to find a new place for the hdd. I made a small hdd holder out of the original hdd bays. Soon after that I got an external hdd enclosure because the wd black makes an aweful noice when it busy (wd says it's all fine but the noise is really weird). The games libary got transferred to the 840 EVO and the pc is much quieter now because the hdd doesn't have to work as often as before. When I got the Z87 Mpower and the yellow parts were blacked out (this needs to be done again, I know ) I was happy enough to finally post it on the LTT forum. The original build: Temporary ''test bench'' The drive bays have to go! The empty case without the psu shroud The ghetto hdd holder The Dark BirdCage is finally completed! With the heatsink blacked out Specs: CPU: Intel I5 4670K Motherboard: Msi Z87 Mpower (blacked out) GPU: Msi GTX 760 HAWK RAM: 2 x 4gb Corsair Vengeance Storage - 120gb samsung 840 ssd (windows) - 500gb samsung 840 EVO ssd (Games & Programs) - 1tb wd black external (data) CPU Cooler: Coolermaster Hyper TX3 evo PSU: Corsair CX750m Case: Bitfenix Shinobi (slightly modded) Plans for the near future: - an ssd mounting plate that will look something like this: Plans for the (not so near) future: - an anrduino powered fan controller that can also control rgb leds - RGB led strips - watercooling (something like an fractal design s36 and a universal gpu block) I hope you enjoyed my first build log!

thanks!

I'm looking for a new motherboard that's all black/grey. The MSI Z97 gaming 5 is a very tempting choice since the little red accents on the heatsinks are very easy to remove so they can be painted. The only thing that's holding me back is the red line around the audio section of the board. Can you turn the line off somehow? or black it out with a permanent marker or something like that?

Oh okay, I always thought the front intake fans would blow hot air back into the GPU. The card is an msi GTX760 hawk edition

Is there going to be a problem if I mount three fans in the front of my case as an intake, while my gpu (open cooler design) is blowing hot air to the front of the case?

How do those 760's perform?

Vincent is my name and runescape suggested the number. Have been using it ever since