SaladFingers

And maybe you need to get back to minding your own bussiness you little kitten.

Inbefore "I broke my GPU trying to unbend it, am I screwed?"

The grief is real Might even drive me replacing this perfectly working card for a new one, lol.

Oh I understand that, I don't really want to risk the PCB. It's the heatsink that's mostly deforming the GPU altogether. I even thought of taking it apart, leaving the PCB alone, and just straightening the heatsink itself. Anyway, thank you for the advice. I'll think this through before anything.

So, my question is about actually unbending the card after the fact. Anyone has got any experience with that?

Here's a picture I found on my phone. Can't really see it because of the angle, though: It's an MSI Gaming X 1080.

Yes mate.

It's pretty normal for heavy cards to sag if not supported.

The card is perfectly functional, but I'm getting severe OCD attacks because I nitpicked everything in this build aesthetically.

I'm not at home at the moment, but it looks like your typical sagging GPU. I didn't support it initially so it slowly started to bend.

Sup guys, been a while since I last posted here. I finally have some free time to spend on fixing my bent GPU and I would like some advice. First off, this isn't about supporting the GPU. I've done that. In fact, at this point if I use any support bracket to level the card, temperatures skyrocket. I have come to the conclusion that the way the heatsink is bent, pushing the card to straighten it just leverages it and the heatsink probably lowers its pressure on the chip. So, given the above, I think my only chance is to take the card out and try to unbent it gently, perhaps tightening the screws after I do. Mind you, this card has never been dissasembled. Any suggestions? I thought of just leaving it on the desk with a few books on top of it for like a whole day. Anyone has tried to do something similar?

Alright, thanks for all the information man, much appreciated. I might just grab the unit and test.

Ah, so in order to have one "master" connecting to two other "slaves" I can't do it. One last thing to clarify then - If one unit supports lower speed, would that mean that the connection between the other too would also get lowered to the same baseline? Or can they both connect at their maximum possible speeds even if they need to take turns?

I understand now, thanks for the clarification. So I'm looking at the same inevitable time-outs you get on wi-fi then. Here's a (probably weird) question though: What if my new "slave" unit is explicitly paired with the other "slave" unit and nothing else? Could this work? As in, using the available bandwidth between the two initial units only and not have the third unit connect directly to the "master". Could that alleviate time outs (albeit limiting my bandwidth)?

Are you sure about this? The "master" unit can only communicate with one "slave" at a time? And if that's indeed the case, then the connection speed when communicating with the older unit should not be affected (other than degradation), right? Finally, what happens if both "slaves" require data at the same time? Some sort of queuing? Should I expect hiccups?

Could you link pls? I found a video of his about powerlines but not about mixing different speeds.

Hello, I have been using a PLC setup to connect a room to my LAN. I want to add another unit, but I don't need the specific connection to be as fast as the other pair, could I use that without affecting the other two units? Here's a mockup: I'm afraid that perhaps my initial pair will downgrade to the speed of the newly added unit to maintain compatibility. Ideally I would like the original pair to function at maximum possible speed (I understand that the first unit's bandwidth will be now used for the third unit as well though) without being affected by the third unit, which should run at its own optimal speed. Is this possible? The unit I'm eyeing is same brand and similar specs apart from the bandwidth.

Haha, that's why I take nightly backups religiously and whenever something breaks I can revert to a working configuration.

Well, it would make sense to do that since they still let people upgrade for free and giving them new licenses. What's the point of going through 2 OS installations if it's only for license activation? I upgraded directly from Windows 7 early on so I don't know what they changed afterwards.

I'm not very knowledgable about Moca but last time I checked I thought they do error correction which might make it bad for gaming

Ah, I didn't realize you could use a win 7/8 license directly in win 10.

Yep, check my edit above. It's weird that browsers aren't taking more control over this functionality. The web isn't as simple as it used to be.

It's a pass-through for using your wall outlet normally while using your PLC at the same time.

One last thing to note is to check if you have single-phase or triple-phase and make sure the PLC will support it if it's the latter. Most modern PLCs will.

Let's just say that if going fully Ethernet is not an option, then using a powerline is your next best bet. Any issues you might have with it are usually worse with Wi-Fi, both latency and stutter wise.