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About MGsubbie

  • Title
  • Birthday 1987-04-14

Contact Methods

  • Steam
  • Origin
  • PlayStation Network

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location


  • CPU
    Intel i7 8700k @5.0 Ghz
  • Motherboard
    MSI Z370 Gaming Pro Carbon
  • RAM
    16GB (2x8) Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 @3000 Mhz
  • GPU
    EVGA GTX 1080 ti FTW3 @1964 Mhz
  • Case
    Corsair Obsidian 450D
  • Storage
    Crucial MX100 256GB SSD, Crucial MX300 525 m.2 SATA SSD, Samsung 850 Evo 500GB SSD, 2xWD Blue EZEX 1TB HDD
  • PSU
    EVGA SuperNova G2 750W
  • Display(s)
    Acer Predator XB271HU, LG 2251, HP L1706, Sony Bravia TV
  • Cooling
    Corsair H115i Pro RGB w/ LL140 Pro RGB fans
  • Keyboard
    Corair K95 RGB
  • Mouse
    Logitech G502 Proteus Core
  • Sound
    Logitech Z906 5.1 Surround, BeyerDyanmic DT 770 Pro, modmic 5, Creative Soundblaster X-Fi HD
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro 64 bit
  • PCPartPicker URL

Recent Profile Visitors

692 profile views
  1. I can't be 100% certain. But as I mentioned before, I have an identical strip. It's tough to put into words, but going by the shape and size, I can determine how the individual cables run through it. The other cable also has labels at the end, indicating what each one is. And with that I'm about 95% certain I know where each cable goes. Considering it's 5V, there's only 3 wires, so I only need 3 pins. I have a male to male 3-pin, maybe it's better to use that one?
  2. I have some custom RGB hardware, but due to some mishaps, I broke the wiring on one the strips. I ordered it from another country, so sending it in to get fixed is not really a solution. I am very bad at fine motor skills, so I'm thinking of having my dad fix it, he's quite handy. He has no experience with this specific thing though. Neither do I with wiring in general It's a 5V strip. I have an identical one, so I can use that to figure out which wire is which. Is it as simple as wrapping the wires around the pins, and sealing them off so they touch each other? If it's more complex, does anybody have a diagram or something like that?
  3. Well, as I mentioned before, I already have quite a bit of SSD storage. The cheapest 2TB SSD is a bit over €200, I paid €60 for this HDD. I think spending that much on a drive that's primarily used for videos, pictures and smaller games is a bit of a waste of money.
  4. So I looked around a bit more, and apparently (can't confirm this though) the Blue 1TB's have anti-vibrational material inside. I assume the versions with more storage don't have enough space. I also noticed that the speeds between 7200RPM and 5400RPM aren't as big as I thought they would be, and since I won't be running big software on it, it shouldn't affect things too much. Guess I'll be getting a WD Blue 5400RPM.
  5. Not the 1TB versions, at least the specific ones I had. https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Cache-Desktop-Drive-WD10EZEX/dp/B0088PUEPK
  6. Well, I used to only hear my fans make noise when I was running the two WD Blue's.
  7. I already have quite a decent amount of SSD storage, and used to run 2x WD Blue EZEX 1TB drives. Mainly used for downloads, documents, video files (Nvidia captures are typically 3-4GB per file) and smaller games that don't really benefit much from a hard drive. I recently got a refurbished HitachiHUA723030ALA640 and it made me realize just how silent the WD Blue's are. I often hear the scratching like noise of moving needles, and it causes so much vibration that even my desk gets some vibration. I'll be looking into adding rubber pads to decrease the amount, but ideally I'd find a better drive and then use this one as an external backup drive. I've been looking into the WD Black series, but google searches tell me those are pretty loud too.
  8. Because I like seeing as few cables as possible. If I end up making this thing, I'll be using the audio jack, bottom SATA cables and the RGB header for the SSD backplate. I have 7 fans and a shit ton of RGB too, it's just that my Commander Pro acts as a passthrough for everything else.
  9. I'm going to add a Geeekpi 5 inch monitor inside my case, the cable for which I'm planning on wiring through the bottom PCIe expansion cover, where there is a hole in the PSU shroud right next to it. I'm planning on getting an RGB backplate for my SSD, which I will put on top of my PSU shroud to cover up the stickers on my PSU. And finally I'm planning on wiring a SATA power extension cable to power a Lighting Node Pro outside my case. All of this would make a lot more wires visible, and I'm focusing on keeping as few cables visible as possible. So what I'm planning on doing is getting a cover that can be screwed into the bottom PCIe expansion cover, and would go along my PSU shroud, in order to cover up all the cables. If it's not clear, here's a picture of what it would cover up. I would want it L-shaped, with some holes cut to wire the SSD cables through, attached to the PCIe cover that has openings hidden behind the rest of it. So what would you recommend here? Make it custom from scratch? Make the cover separately and fuse it to an existing PCIe cover that I use a dremel for to cut open? Use acrylic or steel? Or do you have any other recommendations? (P.S. For anyone wanting to mention that the uncovered m.2 SSD is clashing with the rest of the looks, don't worry, I have a cover on the way, it should be arriving Monday.)
  10. I'm not planning on connecting more than a total of 3 devices to it though. I don't think a molex connector can fit through the hole, it will probably be too narrow.
  11. My case has a hole on the back right next to the right side panel which is just wide enough to fit a single plug from a SATA power cable though. I'm using it to power a Corsair Lighting Node Pro externally for desk RGB LED strips. I want to connect a second one, so I'm looking to get a Y-splitter. Some of these look like those shitty molex to SATA cables, and I'm familiar with the saying. So I just want to make sure these things won't catch fire. Besides the one LNP currently running on the cable, I also have an H115i Pro liquid cooler. https://www.startech.com/be/Cables/Computer-Power/Internal/6in-SATA-Power-Y-Splitter-Cable-Adapter~PYO2SATA https://www.startech.com/be/Cables/Computer-Power/Internal/6in-Latching-SATA-Power-Y-Splitter-Cable-Adapter-Male-to-Female~PYO2LSATA https://www.startech.com/be/Cables/Computer-Power/Internal/4-SATA-Power-Y-Splitter-Cable-Adapter~PYO4SATA If these are shit, any other recommendations? Do note that I live in Belgium.
  12. This started several months ago. I wasn't heavily gaming back then and I was worried I might have caused damage so I didn't really look into it that much. But I've been trying to solve the issue, and I'm pretty much at the end of my rope here. In many games, I get frame rate drops paired by (sometimes extreme) frame time spikes, resulting in bad stuttering. Battlefield V is the game where I experience this the most. But I get the same in Final Fantasy XV, Dragon Quest XI and Ni No Kuni II. I have used 60fps caps in those games, and the issues persist. Weirdly some games, like Monster : Hunter World and Ghost Recon : Wildlands are unaffected. You can see some examples on the screenshot Here's everything that I have done : -Full system format. -Took my PC apart and reassembled it. -Replaced the GPU. -Replaced the RAM. -Replaced the PSU cables. -Replaced the Displayport cable. -Stopped using integrated graphics and ran all monitors through my dedicated GPU. -Plugged the GPU into my second PCIe x16 slot. -Reset motherboard to default settings, getting rid of my overclock. -Disabled all non-essential background processes. I'm thinking somehow I damaged the CPU, or there is a fault with my motherboard. So currently I'm considering getting the cheapest (hopefully second hand) 300-series motherboard I can find and slotting my CPU in there to see if anything changes. I'm not sure if there's any point in that. But before that I'm going to play on a different screen and see if that changes anything. Specs : -i7 8700k (normally at 4.7-5Ghz, now at stock) -MSI Z370 Gaming Pro Carbon -2x8GB Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 3200Mhz C16 (in dual channel) -EVGA GTX 1080ti FTW3 (not overclocked) -Crucial MX100 256GB SSD, Crucial MX300 525 SSD, Samsung 850 Evo 500GB SSD (tried games on all three drives) -EVGA SuperNova G3 750W (using cablemod cables and stock cables) -Acer Predator XB271HU (1440p 165Hz G-sync)
  13. I've spent some time with Microsoft support and more shit started to happen. I think I'm just going to format my boot drive. Sigh...
  14. I just cleared my cache and it didn't clear anything. I guess I could try wiping my history too.