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MGsubbie

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About MGsubbie

  • Birthday Apr 14, 1987

Contact Methods

  • Steam
    MGsubbie
  • Origin
    MGsubbie
  • PlayStation Network
    subbie

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Belgium

System

  • CPU
    Ryzen 5 7800X3D
  • Motherboard
    Gigabyte B650 Aorus Elite AX
  • RAM
    32B (2x16) Gskill Trident Z 5 RGB 6000Mhz CL30
  • GPU
    Gigabyte RTX 3080 Gaming OC
  • Case
    Fractal Design Meshify S2
  • Storage
    Samsung 970 Evo Plus 500GB, Samsung 970 Evo 1TB, Crucial MX500 2.5" 1TB, WD Blue 3TB 5400RPM
  • PSU
    Corsair RM1000X (2021)
  • Display(s)
    Acer Predator XB271HU, LG OLED55C9, 2x BenQ GW2238
  • Cooling
    Corsair H115i Pro RGB with LL140 Pro RGB fans
  • Keyboard
    Corair K95 RGB Platinum
  • Mouse
    Logitech G502 Hero
  • Sound
    Logitech Z906 5.1 Surround, BeyerDyanmic DT 770 Pro, modmic 5, Creative Soundblaster X-Fi HD
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro 64 bit
  • Phone
    Samsung Galaxy A52 6GB
  • PCPartPicker URL

Recent Profile Visitors

1,105 profile views
  1. LInus literally has nothing to go on when he makes that claim, if you can't see that, you're the one who can't think critically.
  2. Basing this on Linus refusing to follow a manual and using it on the wrong product?
  3. We potentially destroyed a startup company because we were lazy and I was greedy, but we gave them some money, so we're all good. Also, we never contacted Billet labs before posting out scathing video, and now we're upset that GN didn't contact us. JFC Linus.
  4. I'll be in the middle of a game, and my PC just hard resets. Well, it tries to reset and stays on a black screen, so I have to turn off the PSU and turn it back on. Here are the steps that I have taken : -Fully cleaned out my PC to make sure the dust is gone. -Tried lowering the power limit on my GPU a bit. -Used HWInfo to check on temperatures. CPU doesn't exceed 70°C, GPU doesn't exceed 80°C (although hotspots hit about 90°C) apparently, VRAM doesn't exceed 102°C. -Also used HWInfo and OpenHardwareMonitor to check power draw. 85-110W on the CPU, about 335W to 345W peak on my GPU, which shouldn't come close to maxing out my PSU. My hardware hasn't changed drastically. I did replace my 1080ti with my 3080. I hadn't used it much since I got it, until I really got back into gaming recently. It started out with the BF2042 beta, where I had hard crashes within minutes. I lowered the graphics settings and set an FPS cap, which limited my hard crashes, but it still happened. I installed NFS Heat through gamepass, that game also instantly caused crashing. I thoroughly cleaned out my PC then, and set an fps cap for that game as well. Things had been going fine. Then for the past week, I've been playing Red Dead Redemption 2. Things were fine, until I tried switching API's, got some weird things going on, got back to playing. And now that game causes hard crashes as well. Please help me. Specs are in my profile.
  5. I can't be 100% certain. But as I mentioned before, I have an identical strip. It's tough to put into words, but going by the shape and size, I can determine how the individual cables run through it. The other cable also has labels at the end, indicating what each one is. And with that I'm about 95% certain I know where each cable goes. Considering it's 5V, there's only 3 wires, so I only need 3 pins. I have a male to male 3-pin, maybe it's better to use that one?
  6. I have some custom RGB hardware, but due to some mishaps, I broke the wiring on one the strips. I ordered it from another country, so sending it in to get fixed is not really a solution. I am very bad at fine motor skills, so I'm thinking of having my dad fix it, he's quite handy. He has no experience with this specific thing though. Neither do I with wiring in general It's a 5V strip. I have an identical one, so I can use that to figure out which wire is which. Is it as simple as wrapping the wires around the pins, and sealing them off so they touch each other? If it's more complex, does anybody have a diagram or something like that?
  7. Well, as I mentioned before, I already have quite a bit of SSD storage. The cheapest 2TB SSD is a bit over €200, I paid €60 for this HDD. I think spending that much on a drive that's primarily used for videos, pictures and smaller games is a bit of a waste of money.
  8. So I looked around a bit more, and apparently (can't confirm this though) the Blue 1TB's have anti-vibrational material inside. I assume the versions with more storage don't have enough space. I also noticed that the speeds between 7200RPM and 5400RPM aren't as big as I thought they would be, and since I won't be running big software on it, it shouldn't affect things too much. Guess I'll be getting a WD Blue 5400RPM.
  9. Not the 1TB versions, at least the specific ones I had. https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Cache-Desktop-Drive-WD10EZEX/dp/B0088PUEPK
  10. Well, I used to only hear my fans make noise when I was running the two WD Blue's.
  11. I already have quite a decent amount of SSD storage, and used to run 2x WD Blue EZEX 1TB drives. Mainly used for downloads, documents, video files (Nvidia captures are typically 3-4GB per file) and smaller games that don't really benefit much from a hard drive. I recently got a refurbished HitachiHUA723030ALA640 and it made me realize just how silent the WD Blue's are. I often hear the scratching like noise of moving needles, and it causes so much vibration that even my desk gets some vibration. I'll be looking into adding rubber pads to decrease the amount, but ideally I'd find a better drive and then use this one as an external backup drive. I've been looking into the WD Black series, but google searches tell me those are pretty loud too.
  12. Because I like seeing as few cables as possible. If I end up making this thing, I'll be using the audio jack, bottom SATA cables and the RGB header for the SSD backplate. I have 7 fans and a shit ton of RGB too, it's just that my Commander Pro acts as a passthrough for everything else.
  13. I'm going to add a Geeekpi 5 inch monitor inside my case, the cable for which I'm planning on wiring through the bottom PCIe expansion cover, where there is a hole in the PSU shroud right next to it. I'm planning on getting an RGB backplate for my SSD, which I will put on top of my PSU shroud to cover up the stickers on my PSU. And finally I'm planning on wiring a SATA power extension cable to power a Lighting Node Pro outside my case. All of this would make a lot more wires visible, and I'm focusing on keeping as few cables visible as possible. So what I'm planning on doing is getting a cover that can be screwed into the bottom PCIe expansion cover, and would go along my PSU shroud, in order to cover up all the cables. If it's not clear, here's a picture of what it would cover up. I would want it L-shaped, with some holes cut to wire the SSD cables through, attached to the PCIe cover that has openings hidden behind the rest of it. So what would you recommend here? Make it custom from scratch? Make the cover separately and fuse it to an existing PCIe cover that I use a dremel for to cut open? Use acrylic or steel? Or do you have any other recommendations? (P.S. For anyone wanting to mention that the uncovered m.2 SSD is clashing with the rest of the looks, don't worry, I have a cover on the way, it should be arriving Monday.)
  14. I'm not planning on connecting more than a total of 3 devices to it though. I don't think a molex connector can fit through the hole, it will probably be too narrow.
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