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About Glenwing

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  1. LEDs degrade in brightness over time, this is well-known information. It is no different for OLEDs. In standard LED backlit displays, the LEDs all share the same power-on hours and brightness, so they don't affect the image uniformity when they degrade since they all degrade together. The only effect is that the display will have a very subtle loss in brightness over time that will almost never be noticed by anyone. Since OLEDs are used as individual pixels, the pixels will not degrade in a uniform manner, it will depend on the usage of every pixel. The damage is also very different from plasmas, so the same solutions do not apply. Unlike plasmas, where the pixels can develop a discolored spot due to the heat if left active too long (hence the name burn in), OLED degradation has nothing to do with how many hours in a row it shows the same image. Moving the image around doesn't "reset" the burn-in counter (because OLEDs don't really "burn in", they degrade slowly over time). Every hour you use an OLED for is another hour of wear, it doesn't matter whether you break the time up into smaller chunks or have it all at once. So the common advice of "just avoid static images" is misguided here. Although the symptoms look similar to plasma burn-in, the nature of the problem is entirely different from plasma displays, so the same solutions do not apply here. Of course, having the same image on the screen will cause that particular image to be worn into the screen more than others, so avoiding long static images is recommended, but only because avoiding cumulative hours of the same image in general is recommended for avoiding OLED degradation. It doesn't matter whether the hours are all in a row or not. Screensavers won't protect OLED screens or undo the degradation, they'll just degrade the screen more with a different pattern. The only screen saver an OLED should have is a black screen. OLEDs don't like being exposed to oxygen, but AFAIK that's just a manufacturing challenge for the plant to deal with, properly designing the screen to be sealed from outside contaminants, not something that affects panels over time. Worth noting I've also been using an OLED phone for the past year and a half, no regrets. But then again I did turn off the software navigation buttons
  2. They aren't cheap: https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/729232-guide-to-display-cables-adapters-v2/?output=DP&input=DVI
  3. Make sure your output dynamic range is set to full if you use HDMI.
  4. Probably uses non-standard timings to get slightly lower rates. They don't have to use standardized formulas like CVT-R2.
  5. That's correct. You can use my utility here for convenience, there's a section at the bottom for matching pixel density. https://glenwing.github.io/diu/
  6. iMac Target Display Mode is only compatible with other Macs, even if you had a PC with Thunderbolt out, as far as I know.
  7. Please see section 0 here: https://forums.tomshardware.com/threads/how-to-connect-to-a-120-hz-display.3268285/
  8. There is only one HDMI specification active at any given time, there really is no picking and choosing of what "version" of HDMI you implement. There is no "today should we implement the HDMI 1.2 or 1.4 feature set?", there is only "the HDMI specification", and in 2013 the latest edit to the HDMI specification was revision 1.4. All devices are built to comply with the latest version of the specification, you don't say "well the latest additions don't affect our product, so ours is really a version 1.3 device". The HDMI specification (whatever the latest version is) covers all possible implementations of HDMI, from the lowest (25 MHz) to the highest (340 MHz in HDMI 1.4), and all possible combinations of features. In effect, all HDMI devices are "compliant with HDMI 1.4", because it's just another way of saying "our HDMI device is compliant with the HDMI specification". The reality is that the use of "version numbers" for describing a device's features or capabilities is simply incorrect. There are no "HDMI version numbers" in hardware. Basically the description of a monitor as "it has an HDMI 1.4b port" is actually completely meaningless. Any HDMI device compliant with the HDMI 1.2 specification is also compliant with the HDMI 1.4 specification, and is also compliant with the HDMI 2.0 specification. Which is exactly why using "version numbers" to describe HDMI devices was banned almost 10 years ago, although enforcement of that is another story
  9. Most likely the monitor just needs to be reset, try unplugging it from power for a minute if you're using DisplayPort, or both the power and video cables if you're using DVI/HDMI.
  10. Use a USB-C to DisplayPort adapter.