Vapour_Trail

This one was hard to create a title for, since I'm not entirely sure what the problem is. I'll start with the symptoms as they currently stand (my system specs can be seen in my profile). If I plug my HDMI cable into my video card and turn on the PC, everything stays blank until it gets to the Windows login screen. However, in this state my video card seems to be acting as a pass-through for my integrated gpu, as performance is identical. I have the latest drivers installed from AMD, but it doesn't seem to make a difference. Furthering my theory that it's acting as a pass-through is the fact that nothing happens when I change screen settings in AMD settings. I have tested both PCI-E slots. If I take the video card out and plug the HDMI cable into my motherboard everything works as it should. I can see the UEFI BIOS splash screen on startup and everything works fine. I thought it could be a problem with the video card, so I brought it around my workmate's house and stuck into his machine, installed the drivers, and the card was plugging away like a champ again. This kind of thing started happening about a week ago. I have, in the past week, been messing around with many different OS installs (various Linux distros, and changing my Windows 10 from a legacy installation to a UEFI one). However, I see no reason why this should affect my video cards ability to access and show the system's UEFI BIOS. The video did actually work in my Windows 10 installation yesterday (even if it still exhibited the same pre-login screen behaviour as before). After I wiped my SSD to reinstall Windows though, I reached the point I'm at now. But, as I said, I don't know how this could be related, since it's just an OS installation on my SSD. I have updated my motherboard to the latest UEFI BIOS and restored its default settings, but to no avail. I'm thinking this problem is possibly caused by my motherboard, but of course, it's hard for to be sure. What are your thought's on this? Sorry for the long post, I wanted to make sure I got enough details included, and thanks in advance for any help.

Thanks for all the help, guys. The SSD is on its way.

My mum has a laptop that she upgraded from Windows 7 to Windows 10. And I know that the free Windows 10 update is locked to the machine, even if the original copy of Windows 7 or 8 was a retail copy. Anyway, it's getting a bit clogged and slow so I was going to do a reinstall of the OS for her, but I'm also going to take the opportunity to swap the HDD for an SSD. I'm pretty sure since it's just the storage that's being changed, that the Windows 10 serial code will work, but I'm just making sure before I go ahead and order the SSD. So, it'll work right? Thanks for any help.

One of the good ways that I've used to help familiarize myself with understanding specs, and how to objectively compare different components, is trying to find detailed articles about specific parts. For example, if you want to learn about PSUs (power supplies) and what differentiates different types, how they work, what cheap ones do on the component side, why certain features are bad or good, then read Hardware Secret`s PSU guide (http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/everything-you-need-to-know-about-power-supplies/). I feel like reading such guides has really helped me. I just wish more of them were a little more up to date, but most of them seem to still be largely relevant.

EDIT: Internet weirded out and resulted in a double post, sorry.

Here are some options for the UK based on different price ranges, that you can consider. Of course, the more expensive ones will run games much better and the cheaper ones are your sort of low end options. £83 - R7 360 http://goo.gl/khuD1D £115 - GTX 950 https://goo.gl/bFbh2q £139 - R9 380 4GB http://goo.gl/Bif4PA That R9 380 4GB is a ridiculously good deal at the moment. Over £20 cheaper than it was just a week ago.

But my Windows 8.1 is a retail license, not an OEM one. Does this mean I essentially get a license downgrade when I update to Windows 10?

Thanks for the reply. The new computer will have nearly all new parts, so the motherboard will be different. The plan was to upgrade to Windows 10 on my current computer (since I'll miss the upgrade deadline, if I wait), get the code, and then install Windows 10 on the new computer (using an ISO from Microsoft's website), when I've built it, and then use the code. Sorry if I wasn't very clear.

Okay, so I’m moving country in August and I’m selling a bunch of my computer parts. Then I’m going to build a new one after I’ve moved. I am, however, keeping a few of my easier to transport parts, such as my SSD, and taking them with me. I’ve done a little bit of research, and I have a few questions/things I’d like to confirm. If I put my SSD in my new computer, what is the best way of getting Windows running again? My Windows is a retail copy, so I’m assuming I can just run a fresh installation and put my activation code in again. Is this correct? Also, I’m currently running Windows 8.1, since after I upgraded to Windows 10, my PC got stuck on 100% RAM usage and I couldn’t seem to find a way around it (memory leak or something?). Downgrading back to Windows 8.1, solved the problem. However, if I upgrade again to Windows 10 before the end of the month, I can get a new Windows 10 key I can use for my next computer, right? Thanks in advance for any help.

Hi. I recently tried to access to access a website, and got a screen telling me that the owner of this website has banned the autonomous system number (ASN) that my IP address is in from accessing the site. Does this mean that the problem is with my ISP rather than my specific IP address? I'm pretty sure I haven't done anything myself that would cause my own IP address to get banned. Can anyone give me more info? Thanks in advance for any help.

You could give Midori a go. http://midori-browser.org/

Yes, all cheap stuff, but I want to use oe as a secondary drive for Linux for some hobby web development I do on occassion, and since it won't be my main drive I'm not too worried about super high performance, just the best I can get for under ¥6,000. I'm doing this instead of partitioning to essentially avoid having to wait for bootloaders, if I turn on the PC and then turn my back for a while. In other words, to keep my boot times low. I'll just choose the drive from the UEFI if I want to load it. The choices are: Silicon Power S55 Kingston V300 Transcend 370S ADATA SP550 SanDisk SSD Plus Thanks in advance for any hep. PS: Forgot the ? in the title. Sorry.

I've only had it for a couple of days, so I can't say for sure on the battery life, yet. Also, I didn't test it when it was at 8.1 so it's hard to complain. I can tell that it might get a little hot when running games or something, but so far it's fine. However, I haven't run anything demanding on it yet

Is the R9 Fury X still going for about the same price as the 980ti? If so, it may be worth considering, as while it usually gets outperformed at 1080p by the 980ti, it seems to scale better to 4K and gets some good results, from what I've read on benchmarks.

With like $45 of your budget left on DeadEyePsycho's list, you may as well stick in a Hyper 212 Evo or something similar in as well to get some use out of that K series CPU. Also, you can get a fully modular 650W EVGA Gold PSU in the US for $55? That's nuts! That's less than it cost me for my CX600M.