Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...

B16CXHatch

Member
  • Content Count

    282
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Awards


This user doesn't have any awards

About B16CXHatch

  • Title
    Member
  • Birthday 1988-04-15

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Tennessee
  • Interests
    Computers/Tech, Gaming (on anything), Automotive, Cartoons/Anime, Comics/Manga (not Marvel or DC Stuff)

System

  • CPU
    AMD Ryzen 7 3800X
  • Motherboard
    MSI MPG X570 Gaming Pro Carbon WiFi
  • RAM
    XPG Spectrix D41 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 3600 17-18-18-38 (Samsung B-Die)
  • GPU
    Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2080 Super Gaming OC
  • Case
    Fractal Design Define C
  • Storage
    Samsung 970 Evo 500GB x2, Samsung 850 Evo 500GB, Samsung 860 Evo 1TB
  • PSU
    SeaSonic Focus Plus Platinum 850PX
  • Display(s)
    LG UltraGear 32GK650G 32" 144/165Hz G-Sync VA Monitor
  • Cooling
    Noctua NH-U12A Cooler, Noctua NF-A12x25 x5 (CPU x2, Intake x2, Exhaust x1)
  • Keyboard
    HyperX Alloy Elite RGB (MX Blue) with HyperX Double Shot PBT Keycaps
  • Mouse
    Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum
  • Sound
    Soundblaster X-Fi Titanium Fatal1ty Professional,
    Pioneer VSX-324 Receiver + S-22W-P Subwoofer (from an Home Theater IAB set),
    Klipsch ProMedia Satellites (from ProMedia 2.1 set),
    Schiit Audio Magni III Headphone Amp,
    Audio-Technica ATH-M50x Closed-back Bluetooth Headphones with Wicked Cushions Leather + Velour ear pads
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro

Recent Profile Visitors

1,370 profile views
  1. I use to watch DVDs on a PC years ago. I remember the first DVD capable device was an eMachine eMonster 600 that a friend of mine and his dad gave me back when I was like 15 (2003). It was utterly amazing this 600MHz Pentium III running Windows 98se even had a DVD drive (it came from the factory with it), let alone play them. I watched the first Pirates of the Caribbean on it on a 15" CRT Monitor (after my parents watched it first on their actual DVD player). I only used it for DVDs briefly though. My brother got me a DVD player for Christmas either that same year or the next year. I used it for like 15 years until I accidentally kicked the open disc tray and broke it. My first Blu-Ray player was an HP laptop that I got new in 2008. My parents and I watched the Dark Knight on it with it hooked up to their plasma TV. That was the only Blu-Ray it ever played before the drive broke Of course I used a laptop to watch a DVD a few times years ago too. That was fairly rare though as I've never traveled a lot. I do still watch DVDs and Blu-Rays now, but I use a PS4 Pro to watch Blu-Rays on my 43" LCD TV and I use a PS3 to watch DVDs on my 27" CRT TV (using S-Video). I also have the official remotes for both too cause I hate using controllers for media playback.
  2. If it's already been cleaned and had the thermal paste re-applied, I'm assuming it's a bad thermal paste application, or just crap thermal paste. If it was me, I'd just redo everything, making sure it's all done right. Make sure to clean the APU thoroughly and use enough of a quality thermal paste. Also, be sure the heatsink is mounted to the APU correctly with enough force. I have an old EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 6GB that ran hot, with the fan running wide open all the time. I originally thought the heatsink/fan combo was inadequate (compact single fan setup). After taking it a apart, applying some Noctua NT-H1, and reassembling it, it ran cooler, boosted higher, and was much quieter. The factory application didn't seem wrong, so my guess was either bad thermal paste or the screws weren't torqued quite enough. One thing I will say though. Keeping any game console clean will be the biggest help. My PS3 I bought new in 2012, I have NEVER opened and it still runs pretty quietly. My PS4 from 2015, same deal. My two PS4 Pros, well, I haven't played them enough yet to even really gather much in the way of dust inside. Also, having smokey dust build up (from either smoking or fireplaces) and can kill cooling efficiency. That kind of build up needs very thorough cleaning to get that tar buildup off and to prevent more dust from clogging it so easily. And as a side note, some games just hit the system differently regardless of how demanding they actually are. On my PS4s, I've had some games that to me look equally as demanding and have one run for hours with a nothing more than a slight hum, while the other makes the thing sound a like a jet engine after 8 seconds.
  3. Back about 12-ish years ago, I had ePSXe running somewhat acceptably on a single core/thread 32-bit Celeron 440m laptop with 1.5GB of RAM and integrated Intel 945G graphics with Windows Vista Basic. I'm sure what you got can probably handle it about as well or better. Of course that's assuming ePSXe is still as lightweight as it was back then. Couldn't tell you. I don't really keep up with emulation outside of Dolphin as I prefer real hardware, but 5th gen and older consoles aren't super hard to run. I mean, Raspberry Pis can run this stuff.
  4. It could all be in the software and the codecs used and how they are configured. About 10-12 years ago, I was big into fansubs. I used Zoom Player. I got started with it because it was included in the CCCP at the time. It was (and I assume still is) extremely customizable as to what codecs are used and how they can be configured. I found that depending on which codecs you set and how you configured them, it could look wildly different. I eventually found a recommended setup from a forum and just rolled with that. Being that you are using a dedicated media player, it may be factory configured in a way just doesn't suit your taste. I would just switch to a PC, use the same software you use on your other PC and set it up the same. For the rare instances I watch video files on my computer now, I typically just use VLC as it's just configured well enough from the outset.
  5. DP can be an absolute pain. You have to find cables that are actually constructed correctly and verified to work. I was pulling my hair out trying to make DP work right with three different cables until I realized that, yes, ALL of them were bad. Or rather, they were made wrong. I covered a specific pin with a small piece of electrical tape on one of them and bam. It now worked perfectly. I now have a few correctly built DP cables and they all work perfectly fine. The ones I got that work properly are these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CD1FB3A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 They are legit, VESA Certified cables. I specifically bought the 2 meter 1.2 cable in the polybag.
  6. Do note that most PS4 games and apps are designed with 1080p in mind and are intended to be run at no less than 720p. You can run into to serious readability issues with a lot of text. Also, a lot of detail can be lost making some games more difficult to play as well. I'm not super well versed on SCART but I do know the standard can use composite, RGB, and S-Video. Make sure the TV is RGB or, at minimum, S-Video capable as well as whatever adapter you get. Composite will probably make a lot of text illegible. I can remember when the Xbox 360 came out and later the PS3. Most people still had CRTs. A lot of people had trouble playing a lot of games because the text was too small to read. To be fair, they were also usually using composite video which made it even worse. I have PS2 games that can be hard to read with composite (hence why I use S-Video on my CRT setup). I have a PS3 in my CRT setup that's not too bad on S-Video, but it's only used for watching DVDs (it's actually fantastic for DVDs, better than my dedicated Onkyo DVD player) and playing PS1 and PS2 Classics from the PS Store. I use my other PS3 on my LCD to play PS3 games.
  7. From personal experience, no not really. I do it primarily for reliability. I did get a minor reduction of load times but not enough to really make it worth it solely on that alone. It's just a few seconds here and there. It's not like going from a hard drive to an SSD on a PC. If you still want to do it, my recommendation would probably be a Crucial MX500. They strike a good balance between performance, reliability, and value. I have a 1TB MX500 in both my PS4 Pros. A Seagate BarraCuda 120 1TB is looking like a good value too but I've never owned one.
  8. Also, just because it's modified doesn't make it uncomfortable. My car before the Civic hatch was a 95 Civic coupe that I got from my brother. He put cheap coilovers on it. It rode like garbage. And when it had 17" wheels with paper thin tires, it was even worse, which is why I put 15" wheels with fatter (stock size) tires on it. When I got my hatchback, it had factory springs that were cut to lower it. It too rode like shit. I replaced that garbage with some nice high quality H&R OE Sport lowering springs. OE Sports are barely lower than factory so they actually raised the car. I also switched from some rock hard BF Goodrich tires to some nicer Falken Ziex ZE-912 tires. It was a well known fact in my family that, at the time, my 96 Civic with lowering springs and Z-rated tires was the best riding car in the whole family fleet. It rode better than my mom's then new 2008 Civic. And again, pleasant is subjective. Many (most in the US) find automatic/CVT transmissions more pleasant. I don't. That's why I specifically tracked down a manual Fit Sport. I had all kinds of automatics to pick from but very few manuals. I paid a small premium to get a manual one that was a little rougher than the autos. Since I don't live in a urban area with lots of stop and go traffic, a manual just makes my driving experience more enjoyable. But since it's a Sport, it still has the nicer radio and cruise control among other small upgrades over the base model. My mechanic has a semi-sleeper 99 Civic Si. Looks like any other mildly modded Si out there. It has the same engine as mine, well, the same block and head. BUT, the internals are completely different and it has a bigass turbo on it. I makes over 500HP to the wheels and is scarily quick.
  9. I've had the old car for 13 years. Saving up to buy something nicer was extremely difficult back then. Now I'm in a better place, and it's a project car. I spend money on it now because I want to. It's fun to tinker with it. And more pleasant driving experience is subjective. My mom's 2014 Subaru Forrester is a "nicer" car but boring as hell to drive. My Civic is light and powerful (for it's weight). It's an absolute hoot to drive, even slow. Just stop and think about the forum your on. Why build PCs? Why not just buy a pre-built? It's simpler and can provide a subjectively better experience. Why tinker with old computers and electronics? Why play older video games? Because it's fun. You basically asked, why do I have a hobby and spend money on it. There is no logic. I enjoy it. Also, don't call people's cars shitty. That's kind of a dick move bro.
  10. I daily a 2007 Honda Fit Sport Manual in Nighthawk Black Pearl that's, for the most part, stock with ~192,000 miles. Only "mods" are a drop-in aftermarket armrest, aftermarket cargo cover, optional Honda cargo organizer, and GP Thunder yellow fog light bulbs. I bought it July 2017 with ~179,000. It's still a bit rough but I replaced several of the busted and missing bits to make it much more presentable. The only major repair I've had to do is an alternator. Everything else has been your normal service stuff. My other car is a 1996 Honda Civic CX Hatchback in Midori Green Pearl with a B16A2 Engine swap... Look at my username. This was my daily from October of 2006 to July 2017 when I got my Fit. Midori Green Pearl is fairly rare factory color. From what I can tell, it was only available on North American (possibly US only) 1996 Civic hatchbacks. Mods list: There's also some parts that have been swapped out for better condition stock parts as well such as the steering wheel, airbag, and door panels in the wrong shade of gray (take what I can get), the passenger front seat and rear seat, unpainted grille, primered hatch, etc. Also the front bumper doesn't match. The car is in desperate need of some bodywork and a total respray. And lastly, it's not mine... yet, but I do drive it from time to time. My parents' 1998 Toyota Tacoma Standard Cab 2WD Base 2.4L Manual in White (that's seriously the factory color name). It's my dad's "daily" (he's retired) but I often drive it when I need a truck. I mostly use it for parts hauling or taking used motor oil and batteries to Advance Auto Parts. And pics: Old pic from when I first bought the Fit. The Civic still has US mirrors and a stock seat (there's also a shed and carport in this spot now too): Newer but still old pic (May 2018) from when I installed the rear lip and restored the side skirts. Still haven't installed the new seat or the new DX spoiler (still has the old one, still from a DX, just old and damaged) in this picture:
  11. It sounds very much to me, either a hardware or just configuration issue stemming from the router. On my network, I get the full 200Mbps on any device capable pretty much everywhere in the house, and that's with switches, access points and powerline adapters involved all connected with cheap Cat6a. If you have a spare router laying around, try that. Otherwise, you may want to factory reset your current router and see if that helps at all. Granted, it could be a default setting causing the problem. Also, try other cables. You've already tested connecting directly to the router, but have you tried connecting directly to the modem itself? Years ago when we were upgraded to 50Mbps from 25, that's how I discovered I had an underpowered router. A tech came out to install the new modem and after we got it setup, we ran a speed test and I was only getting 35Mbps. He said it was the router, but I didn't believe him at first. He then suggested connecting directly to the modem for a test. Sure enough, full 50Mbps. Bought a new router and solved that problem. There's also the distinct possibility that the PS4 just has a bad ethernet connection. Not much you can do to test that other than getting another PS4.
  12. I have parts that get transferred or reused all the time. Had an EVGA SuperNOVA 850 G2 PSU that got used on a few rigs from 2014 to 2019. Drives get reused all the time. Depending on whether or not you see these all different computers, my GTX 1080 has been in a few systems (1 unique system then an ever evolving setup involving 2 cases, 3 CPUs and 5 motherboards). My Logitech G11 keyboard saw a couple of computers and my G710 saw a few more. I've reused cases a few times. However, nothing compares to my old Sound Blaster X-Fi Titanium Fatal1ty Professional. I bought it in early 2008. I only just replaced it 2 days ago with a Sound BlasterX AE-5 Pure. If it winds up being too buggy though, the ole X-Fi may find it's way back in.
  13. My main rig, as well as most of my stationary devices with Ethernet ports (desktops and game consoles) I have hardwired with Cat6a on a gigabit router, switch and powerline Ethernet adapter. I have dedicated WiFi access points, one for upstairs and one for downstairs, that everything else is on (laptops, phones, tablets, eReaders, and handheld game systems).
  14. Well, I held a grudge against MSI for years. I bought an MSI laptop that I was cool with at first because it was the highest end, most powerful laptop I had ever had (i7 4710HQ + GTX 850). It started to drive me insane though. The cooling wasn't adequate on the CPU. The slightest of loads would send it soaring to 95+ degrees and have the fan running wide open even after a thermal paste change. I just couldn't stand the constant noise. Gave it to my dad. To its credit, my dad still has it and still uses it. It's still loud as butts though. Then shortly after buying that laptop, I had also bought an MSI motherboard (some Z97 board), and it crapped out after about 30 minutes of use. I swore off MSI after that. Now, a few months ago, I bought an ASRock X570 Extreme4 WiFi ax board to upgrade my main rig with for two reasons. My old Asus Strix X470-F never really behaved quite right after the BIOS updates to support Gen 3 Ryzen. It worked but it was a little derpy. Also, after upgrading to a Ryzen 7 3800X, I now had a Ryzen 7 2700 just sitting there and I wanted something to do with it. That went horribly awry. Turns out, ASRock is kinda shit at making BIOS updates. At least for this board. After updating to V2.1 TWICE, it was horribly unstable (updated once using my 2700, after installing the 3800X, it somehow reverted to V1.0). By the time I got around to this, the board was well outside the return period. So I bought a different board from a different manufacturer. I was much quicker on the swap but not before trying another BIOS update. ASRock released V2.2 and delisted 2.1. So yeah, I figured it was just a bad BIOS update and this new one will fix it. Nope. Just as bad. I have never removed a motherboard as fast as that ASRock. I threw the 3800X into the new board, installed the latest BIOS and it was smooth sailing. Stable, CPU somehow runs cooler, installing M.2 drives is easier, and the chipset fan is quieter, doesn't whine, and even has a 0RPM mode. You might see where this is going. That new board is an MSI MPG X570 Gaming Pro Carbon WiFi and so far, I love it. I bought it because MSI's X570 boards were consistently higher rated on Amazon and Newegg than everybody else and this particular one was the highest rated board within what I wanted to spend. Before buying, I came to terms with the fact that that board failing all those years ago, well... It might have been my fault. I'm not going into details but there's something I did that, while it never was a problem before, might have killed that board. So now my grudge is with ASRock instead of MSI. It's so weird seeing an MSI logo every time this thing boots. Oh, yeah. A double kick to the nuts. Not only did I have to buy another board, I had to buy another Windows license cause after two board swaps, I couldn't get my license to activate on the newest board. Screw calling support. My time is worth more than that.
×