Andrew Sh

General rule of thumb is get a good cpu and an SSD and then pump your budget into your graphics card. Would probably go for the 2070 super if you have the money. Definitely ignore the 2060 since that won't push 144fps at 1440p. Realistically, if you're going for 144fps, the 2070 super is your best bet. I somehow doubt you'll get 144fps in all titles at max settings but dropping AA a notch or two can make a big difference.

This sounds like major throttling but other things could be at play. Would check temps. Get MSI Afterburner and see whether the lag spikes are affected by CPU/GPU temps and do they go up and down when it happens. You should also do a clean install of your GPU drivers to make sure everything is good there. If that doesn't help you may want to reset your bios. That can cause some issues in some cases if you did a bad overclock on cpu/ram. Probably some other things you could google but as a last resort I would reinstall windows.

Nah not even close in price. These 2 are priced around £250 and I get them for £235 with a personal discount. The 2060 goes for £320 minimum for cheap models. Couldn't really justify the price hike considering ray tracing is of no value to me since i'm looking for FPS.

Hi all! Looking for some quick advice on GPU coice, as the title suggests. The models are Sapphire PULSE Vega 56 vs Gigabyte Windforce (2x) OC 1660ti. I can get both at the exact same price (new), literally 2 euro difference. I know the vega 56 is older and more power hungry, but it's supposed to be a fair bit faster than the 1660ti. My main concern is getting high frame rate 1080p. I play CSGO, Heroes of the Storm and want to have the capability to have close to 144fps in most new AAA games. I'm aware neither will reach that in max settings, that's fine. So, power draw and old but faster or newer and more efficient? My PSU is a TX750M Corsair. Monitor is an Asus 1080p, 144hz Freesync monitor which has never had tearing issues with my gtx 1060. Thanks!

Was considering an external aswell since that protects it from any electrical fault in the PC too, Found well priced 2tb external WD hdd which comes with automatic backup software that I can set to backup every 2-3 days. Sounds like a decent solution. I'll have local, external and cloud backups.

Sorry you're right. I meant Raid1, disk mirroring.

Hi all, Hope someone has experience with this. I need a raid1 setup for my photography work for failure safety and I'm looking for a good way to back up my data. I currently have a dedicated 2TB WD Blue mechanical HDD. 1. Is it possible to add a 500gb SSD as primary storage with the 2TB (i'll partition 500gb out of it) in Raid0 to backup it's contents? 2. Will the mechanical HDD slow down the SSD's write speeds or will the SSD write data and then the HDD can catch up after a couple of minutes? Thanks in advance all

Probably going to be an unpopular opinion but Intel might be a better idea for high frame rate builds. Intel performs better in 1080p high fps builds.

Check how much power the power supply provides. Most prebuilt office pcs come with about 200-250w. 200w may be fine with slightly reduced power limit as mentioned above. 250w will be perfectly fine. Anything more and you'l have no issues at all.

This forum is swarming with different build asks, just have a snoop around.

For PS4 you also gotta remember that your hands are perfectly stationary and this is perfect for a recliner. Wouldn't quite work if you have to move around a mouse or type on a keyboard As a very casual gamer, and depends what you play also, you could probably get away with playing a pc game on a recliner.

Well you have to look at it in the sense that you play PS4 on a large tv (50"+) about 3-5 metres away but your PC monitor is only about 1m away (or less in many setups). I have a 27" and a 24" monitor and they are about 70-80cm away for my face which makes them feel quite large compared to the TV I have at home. I know someone with a 32" and it actually feels like it negatively impacts gameplay when you have to move your head to see different parts of the screen. This ofcourse gets avoided by having the monitor further away from your eyes, but then you're just going back to the Monitor (1metre) vs TV (3-5metre) distance difference.

Probably not worth the time to be honest. The Pi is quite weak in terms of compute power and you won't have a bunch of graphic cards attached to boost it.

In most cases (pun intended) this shouldn't be a problem unless it's one of those ancient office pcs that has different ports and such. Get a cheapo £20 case

As others said, Check temps of your components. You also gotta find which fan is being so loud. Remove the graphics card and run on onboard graphics if it has one. Check MSI afterburner for their speed if you dont have onboard grahpics. Remove all case fans and boot. then add 1 by one till you find what is loud. If there are high temps somewhere that are causing it, try find out what hte problem is. Every fan you described there should be quite reasonable. May also need to check your bios because I did the same mistake previously where I accidentally switched all fans to full speed If the fans are louder than a very audible fan, I'd say you may just have a faulty fan there with bad bearings.

As Likwid above said, are you planning to OC? If not then there's no need to upgrade your cooling. if you are, I would probably get a Dark Rock Pro 3 (air cooler). Cheap AIO are crap investments.

Chances are that nothing can bottleneck a 8700k at the moment. That would be a monster build.

You haven't really given a whole lot of info here.. is that while Idle? Is that while playing? Is that while rendering? What cooler do you have? What CPU??? do you have if not the one on your profile? The list goes on, give info if you want help

Since when does Twenty-eighty sound faster than Eleven-eighty? Unless you say 'tweny-eighty' which sounds the same. I think that naming the cards 2080 would be stupid both logically and with how it sounds.

I'd wait a little to see if the new 2xxx series rumours are true or not. If they are, you'll get a 2080. If they are not, then at least the prices might return to normal after this major shortage in the past 2 months.

The question I have is what kind of multitasking you're looking at? Many people just call a pc capable of streaming/minor video editing as a "workstation" when in reality all they need is a more powerful gaming pc. If you want to just run several programs like games, chrome, communication apps etc, either will do the job. If you want to run professional programs, then it again depends what exactly you're running. I personally like intel more after playing around with an R7 1800x and an i7 8700k (I stuck with the i7) but it really depends on your usage. Given the prices of these 2 systems and the fact that the intel system has double the ram, I'd go with Intel. They also got better OC, easier ram oc and in my experience, less hassle overall.

I'd almost go off and get a 1060 now if you can get one cheap. Worthy upgrade and chances are the 2070 (if it's called that) will cost what a 1080 costs now. It'll be super hard to get your hands on the new cards too since miners will go John Cena on retailers.

At i5-4590 level, you will likely see no difference in performance. If what I'm reading is correct and both kits are 1600mhz (pc-12800), they will be perfectly fine running together. The only thing that can interfere is the clock timings but since this is a normal level kit and you're not running an insane overclock, it will not cause any problems.

you can keep the HDD, Case and PSU (if you go for something as powerful as gtx 1060. It could probably handle a 1070 but I like to be extra safe with no more than about 50%-60% load on PSUs Everything else is pretty low specs and would better be sold off to supplement the upgrade. Hope that helps

After much frustration and effort, trying to apply a small OC to the ram (I was hoping to build up to about 3000mhz) but the first increase basically killed my bios/motherboard/ram and nothing I do works. Including cmos resets and removing battery and every possible bios reset I found online I pretty much decided to RMA this garbage and go for an i7 8700k instead. I honestly wanted to give AMD a chance but I can't sit here for a week trying to figure out what is wrong with the PC. It shouldn't be so difficult. Some people may have great experience with these new Ryzen chips but if you have to put that much effort into overclocking the ram to get high performance out of the cpu, it's just not worth it. My previous Intel setup needed 2 clicks in the bios and my ram was OC'd to where it should be. Shame. I'll still get the Dark Rock Pro but it'll be used to OC the 8700k rather than the 1800x. Hopefully can get 5ghz+ on it