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19_blackie_73

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    somewhere inbetween the US and Asia
  • Member title
    silence! the best noise of a computer

System

  • CPU
    R5 3600
  • Motherboard
    MSI X470 Gaming Plus MAX
  • RAM
    16GB Corsair LPX, 3200MHz
  • GPU
    MSI 2060 Super Gaming X
  • Case
    be quiet! Silent Base 601
  • Storage
    1TB 660p, 250GB Kingston A2000, 1TB Seagate Barracuda, 2 TB WD Blue
  • PSU
    be quiet! Straight Power 550W CM
  • Display(s)
    Dell UP2516D x2
  • Cooling
    all be quiet!: 4x Silent Wings 2 140mm; CPU Cooler: Dark Rock 4
  • Keyboard
    Logitech G610 MX Brown
  • Operating System
    Windows 10
  • Laptop
    Dell XPS 15 2017 - i5 9300h + GTX1050

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  1. Hi everyone, I'm currently thinking about switching my monitor setup to something else. I'm using 2x Dell UP2516Ds for quite a few years now and I don't need the space of two monitors and would like to free up some space on my desk. One 16:9 Display would be to little however. My use cases are: lot's of content consumption picture editing -> therefore; color accuracy and evenness is very important (currently sitting at 95-99% Adobe RGB with my displays) occasional video editing and DAW work very occasional some gaming, though my requirements are not high - so no need necessarily for >60 Hz, as most of the games don't really benefit anyways and I'm happy with it as it is currently. As I'm not planning to upgrade my GPU (2060 super); things like RDR2 and FH5 as my most demanding titles should still run -> higher than 3440x1440 is more or less out of the question if I read the performance numbers right. My setup also includes that I've currently plugged my mouse, keyboard and interface into the monitor's USB Hub and depending if I use my laptop via dock or desktop pc, the peripherals switch automatically. Would be cool if that would still be possible with the new display. Based on that I've found the Dell U3423WE; there's b-stock available for 700€ atm here in Germany. Is there anything else worth considering based on the above mentioned use case? I don't mind spending a little more or a lot less, most important is the color accuracy with a comparable range to now and that the random switch between laptop and desktop is as seemless as possible. TL;DR: feature wishlist: color accurate (>90ish adobe rgb, DCI) USB Hub to switch mouse/keyboard/interface over 34" because of space Thanks everyone! EDIT: HDR is also not necessary, I'm using my display currently at 20% brightness @120cd so no need for record breaking numbers.
  2. today it happened again early in the morning. I was able to grab some screenshots of the log, but wasn't able to download it: in the log.1 file was only one entry: 2023-12-11 07:27:56.072 ERROR (MainThread) [homeassistant.components.websocket_api.http.connection] [547463421120] Error handling message: length of value must be at least 1 for dictionary value @ data['statistic_ids']. Got [] (invalid_format) <me> from 192.168.178.20 (Mozilla/5.0 (Macintosh; Intel Mac OS X 10_15_7) AppleWebKit/605.1.15 (KHTML, like Gecko) Home Assistant/2023.7 (io.robbie.HomeAssistant; build:2023.471; iPadOS 16.6.0) Mobile/HomeAssistant, like Safari) 2023-12-11 07:29:18.409 ERROR (MainThread) [homeassistant.components.websocket_api.http.connection] [547463421120] Error handling message: length of value must be at least 1 for dictionary value @ data['statistic_ids']. Got [] (invalid_format) <me> from 192.168.178.20 (Mozilla/5.0 (Macintosh; Intel Mac OS X 10_15_7) AppleWebKit/605.1.15 (KHTML, like Gecko) Home Assistant/2023.7 (io.robbie.HomeAssistant; build:2023.471; iPadOS 16.6.0) Mobile/HomeAssistant, like Safari) everything else seems to be lost to time. I first unplugged the power, plugged it back in, nothing, then again unplug and back in and then it worked.
  3. yes, from the official Pi Imager. AFAIK and I'Ve found out, you just have to insert a SD Card first with an image that tells the pi to boot from the usb / SSD. That's what I've done for now. Using also an USB to SSD that was recommended by several HA / Pi Forums.
  4. currently using an ssd, but yeah, will try it with an sd card as a next step
  5. Hello everyone, I'm currently trying to get HomeAssitant running. I'm using a 4GB Pi4 in a argus neo case with a Sonoff Zigbee Dongle, original Pi USB C Power Supply and an Intenso 120GB SSD. I've set it up on Wednesday, and since then two times my sensors (atm only 2 aquara thermostats) first were unavailable and then the whole gui didn't do anything - you could go to the various pages, but he didn't react to anything pressed that triggers an action. Zigbee stick shows up as initializing, but can't complete that. After removing power for a while, it will restart and you need to press reconfigure on the aquaras to work again. I'm new to this whole stuff and a bit lost, googling didn't bring much to the table atm that sounds about right. Probably worth mentioning, I had to retry 2 times to get homeassistant finally to boot after installation (had to do the whole Pi imager thing 3 times). Are any components faulty, are there things to look out for, maybe misconfigured? Things I'm currently investigating: - integrated the Pi cpu temperature sensor, so far only 1-2°C difference between start of logging in the morning and now. - maybe backup and reinstallation on an sd card for testing? - other usb extension for the sonoff dongle Thanks for any hints and tricks and tips. EDIT: for reference, here's the temperature graph of the CPU - small creep:
  6. Hi everyone, I'm a bit at a loss right now with my new setup for ingesting phots and videos: Quick backstory: I made the switch from XQD cards to CF Express Typ B, therefore I needed a new card reader. I got the SanDisk Extreme Pro Card Reader with a USB 3.1 Gen 2 connection (https://documents.westerndigital.com/content/dam/doc-library/en_us/assets/public/sandisk/product/memory-card-readers/extreme-pro-cfexpress-card-reader/data-sheet-extreme-pro-cfexpress-card-reader.pdf). To get as much out of it as I can for reasonable money and as my PC does not have a USB C Port (even though the cable is interchangeable), I ordered also a USB add in card with USB 3.2 Gen 2 (aka 10GBit/s; https://www.delock.de/produkt/89001/merkmale.html?setLanguage=en). The problem: with the delivered cable, I get roughly the 10GBit/s connection, both on my laptop thunderbolt port and the add in card in my desktop with a new Silverstone 10GBit/s rated USB C cable, I get the 10 Gbit/s on my laptop, but only around 400 MBit/s or 50MB/s transfer speed on the add in card in my desktop (same port) with a Anker 1.5 m USB C to A, unrated cable, I get 5GBit/s on my laptop which has only 5Gbit Type A ports, on my desktop on some ports I get the 5 GBit/s (e.g. the front USB ports), but on many others on the back including the new add in card (most of the time) only the ~400 MBit/s connection. I'm running Win10 rn, latest updates, installed the driver for the card as well. So as far as I'm concerned, the issue isn't in the cables but cable related depending on the ports, but I'm at a bit of a loss right now what to do. The card is clearly capable of delivering the 10GBit/s. Anyone had such an issue before and / or has a solution for this mess? Thanks in advance!
  7. Fuji has a great selection for small and fast (and most times affordable) lenses, so I'd stick with that. Most of the models have the same sensor, so the biggest differantiator is the physical size and the number of physical controls instead of software. Are you open to buying used? If new is a must, XT30 II seems like a good and the only option, you can get a kit with a 15-45 f3.5 lens (which isn't ideal for night though, but could be worse) for around a 1000$. If used is an option, maybe take a look at a used X-E4 if you like small, or an XT3 for example, or a used XT30 II with a couple of faster lenses e.g. a 35 f2 or a lot of other stuff thats available. If you prefer, websites like keh.com and mpb.com offer a lot of used gear and they'll test it before offering it and you have a warranty, so you pay less for tested used stuff, but it's a tad more expensive than jumping onto some forums or craigslist and getting your gear from there. General rule: the lens will have a way bigger impact in the night for image quality than the body. So spend accordingly.
  8. What temps does HWinfo or Crystal Disk Info report? But any ssd should be plenty fast to run windows and install games without locking up
  9. Even something small like the be quiet pure rock slim is really quiet - but the exact cooler depends on what you can fit. I have one in my NAS and cant hear a thing if the drives are off/in standby.
  10. I don't question that you can have your "own" cloud with your nas; the thing that boggles my mind is that you can't even access it locally when WD decides not to work.
  11. How the frick did anyone think this is a good idea to link a cloud service with the access to the locally stored data? How stupid is that? Isn't that the whole point of having a NAS - not relying on an external factor such as google drive or other similar services?
  12. so i found the solution: the pool of the applications was on the same pool. I needed to go to Apps -> Settings -> Unset Pool. This deletes all apps and then the write stream stopped. So lesson learned: if you want applications and to have a power save measures in place, have an extra ssd for the apps to install
  13. I did reboot it after that. Thanks, I think I have to dig a little further
  14. Yes, I am using scale Changed it, waited a few hours and now only halfed the writes but didn't stop it...
  15. I installed TRUENAS on the additional NVME... or at least, so I thought. How do I change what you mean?
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