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Everything posted by Euphoria

  1. Thank you for that info and link, appreciate it. I'll wait and see what they sound like when they arrive and go from there.
  2. Hey everyone, I'm trying to step up my audio game from the typical gaming headsets, so I've purchased a pair of Sennheiser HD 598. Their main use will be gaming, movies and a little music. What I would like to know is, would motherboard onboard audio be good enough to really get the most out of these headphones, I know my mobo will physically drive these headphones no problem but would I really be getting the full experience or would the onboard audio be holding them back?? Therefore, should I be looking to get a soundcard and/or amp?? My system is a bit old but still reasonably decent, running 3770k on the Z77 platform, the mobo in question is the ASUS Z77 Sabertooth and I'd be connecting them to the 3.5mm on the mobo rear I/O. Any advice or recommendations would be great, thanks.
  3. My bad completely forgot to add that. I need it on two systems as both are currently running ASUS's own fan control software which plain and simply does not work. One older rig on Z77, and one on X99.
  4. I had a feeling this was the case. Well OK then, I guess I'm learning how to set up SpeedFan. Hopefully it will recognise my system this time, as last time I briefly tried it a few years ago it showed my CPU @0c, it didn't show half of my fans and my GPUs at something silly like -199c. Appreciate the help.
  5. I believe Fan Xpert is the new name for Thermal Radar, basically the same thing.
  6. Hey everyone, Short version: Is SpeedFan the only free fan control software without the requirement of having specific brand fans/mobo, or is there an alternative??? Long version: I'm running an ASUS mobo so I've been using the included ASUS Thermal Radar fan control software (now called Fan Xpert), but it is ridiculously unreliable, useless and just plain broken! It refuses to increase the RPM on most of my fans when temps increase, the only way to fix it, is to open the app and manually disabled all the fans one by one then enable them again.... but I have to do this every single time I switch on the PC. Secondly, it reports nearby Sensor temps and not actual temps, so when Thermal Radar registers my CPU at 35c the actual core temps are more like 55c. I've tried different versions and updates for it but it's just broken and many other users say the same. I've looked around over the past few months for an alternative (that actually works) but I'm not coming up with much. I know of SpeedFan, but a few people have told me it hasn't been updated in years so it's apparently difficult and problematic to set up, so I've been told. Other than that, I can't find anything that doesn't require buying new fans. So, does anyone know of anything that works properly and doesn't require buying all new fans??? Thanks
  7. Damn, so no one seems to be experiencing this also. Well that sucks, for me at least. I'll play around a bit more in hope of finding a cause, but I guess it might just be a reinstall in the coming months. Thanks for the input and advice everyone, appreciate it.
  8. Oh OK, any info on what the garbage was?? I assumed there would be some typical MS crap that came with it but I don't recall seeing any new apps or features.
  9. That sucks. I have my OS setup with a registry edit so it won't update unless I manually click update and the same with restarting after an update. So I planned to do the update, it was just my electricity company picked the worst time to do some maintenance.
  10. Sorry, didn't think of that. It's definitely not that though, it's a few years old but still a high-end system that more than meets the requirements.
  11. Hey everyone, I recently did the Windows 10 fall creators update, but I had an issue during the install process. About 25% into the install where it states; Don't switch off your PC... my village had a power outage, and I'm currently redecorating so my PC is on a coffee table in the lounge temporarily, so I didn't have my UPS plugged in. After the power came back on and I had finished swearing and shouting at my electricity supplier, I switched the PC on and crossed my fingers. To my surprise, it boot looped twice I think, but then resumed the update install from 25% where it left off. I thought I had gotten away with it, but now after a week or more, I'm not sure. The issue: I'm experiencing longer boot, restart and shutdown times since this update, but because of the issue I had I'm not sure if it's just me, or if others are experiencing this too. I know we're only talking about a few seconds, first world problems, but I've gone from roughly 7-8 second boot times to around 15+ seconds, and it's the same for shutdown and restart, it used to be almost instant, 1-3 seconds maybe, but now it's 7-8 seconds or longer. I've spent a few hours going through everything to make sure my OS is configured how it was before the update; no new startup apps or services, hibernation disabled... things like that, but everything seems the same. So, my question is: has anyone else experienced this since the update, or do I likely have a slightly corrupted OS??? Thanks
  12. Sorry to bother people, I just want to check I've got this correct and I understand. Is something like this what users above are referring to: Cheap Amp on Amazon It has 2 outputs (Left and Right) plus 1 subwoofer output. So, as long as it has the power to drive the speakers, which I believe it does, I just require a 3.5mm to RCA cable (3.5mm connected to my PC mobo, to RCA plugged into the amp, and obviously the speakers and sub connected to the amp outputs. Is that correct??I know it's a cheapo piece of rubbish, money is tight since quitting my job, so if someone has a recommendation for a better one that isn't too much more that would be helpful.
  13. Thanks for helping ladies/gents. [Edit] Answered my own question
  14. Is that just to connect them via speaker wire with no plugs, or because a PC mobo wouldn't be able to drive them, or both?
  15. Hi everyone. So as I mentioned in the title I'm a complete audio newbie, but I am trying to improve my audio setup. I've recently purchased a decent set of headphones and ditched once and for all my crappy gaming headsets, but one thing is still lacking... my speakers. I've recently quit my job to take care of my father so money is Very tight. I've looked online for some decent speakers that people seem to recommend, but they're all out of my budget. Then it hit me, I have an old-ish DVD/Blu-ray entertainment system in the attic, the player overheated and melted a few years ago, but the speakers are fine, they're definitely not audiophile quality but they're not cheap and nasty either. I got them down and dusted 'em off to look at the connection they use, it's just plain ol' speaker cable, no plug on the end. So my question is, how can I connect these to a PC, is it even possible? Is there an adapter for speaker cable to 3.5mm plug, or is there anything specific I need to check with the speakers to know if my PC can even drive them? Any help would be appreciated.
  16. Great stuff, thank you everyone, I really appreciate the help and info. I'll keep learning about VMs' but just to be safe, I'll look out for a cheap old system or raspberry pi to check them first before plugging into my main systems. Thanks again.
  17. Hi, hi mate (cool handle by the way). Thank you for the info, that's great to hear, I will continue to learn as much as possible about VMs' and go with that. Regarding what you said; although it will slow down your PC - Do you mean having a VM on the PC will slow it down just having it there, or do you just mean while using the VM it's slower? Similar to a game emulator, a super high-end PC can only emulate a PS2 and not a PS3 because of the processing power required to emulate??
  18. Hey, so as I said in the title, I'm trying to learn the absolute basics regarding VMs'. So far I *think I understand what they are, sort of like a computer environment (OS, apps...) within a computer environment, please tell me if I'm incorrect. Anyway, I'm trying to find out if a VM is going to work and be useful to me. I've started doing some work for a small business, creating a site, maintaining it, updating property listings... etc. So on a regular basis, they give me USB drives with .pdf, hundreds of photos, and more importantly zip files. Well, I don't want to be sticking some random USB drives into my system and unzipping what could be anything, so I thought a VM might be good for me. So my question is; if I set up a VM, just a basic one (I don't know if there are different types) would I be safe while in a VM to open these random zip files and drives, would my actual OS and files be safe and protected from anything nasty, as I opened it while in a VM?? Appreciate any info, and sorry if this is a stupid or obvious question.
  19. Yes, it's the white powdery layer that builds up inside. Most of it can be removed with a pipe cleaner.
  20. I'll have a search in the garage for some old tubing, but I'm pretty sure I won't have any, as soon as I removed old tubing it normal goes straight into the recycling box. If I can't find any, in a couple of weeks I'll be removing the tubing that's in the rig now, which is a perfect example as it looks terrible, so I'll update the thread then.
  21. That's great to hear, thank you for that. I've used many different colours of tubing as well as clear over the years I've been WC, but I've never used a solid colour tubing as yet, so I wasn't sure if they are fully opaque or just less transparent. As for the UV/Sunlight, yeah I agree he could be on the right track, I hadn't considered UV as a possible cause. The rig at the moment is less than 1m away from a large window, plus the reservoirs, (T-Viruses), have built-in UV cold cathodes too, so he could well be right. Once I saw that post late last night, I kept an eye on the sunlight this morning and although it's a little overcast today, between 07:00 and 15:00 the PC is pretty much in direct sunlight. It has bothered the hell out of me for the past couple of years that my battle station was in the wrong corner of the room really, so the sunlight blinds me a lot of the time, which is part of the reason for the new setup, to move everything into a more suitable place. Regarding components, current components at this moment: Brass fittings throughout (black nickel plated) Copper and plexi CPU and GPU blocks Acrylic and Acetal reservoirs Pumps I think are mostly Acetal or Nylon (About to be replaced with D5s) Brass and copper radiators (I did double check the manufactures site to make sure they don't contain aluminium or anything other than brass or copper) Can't remember exact what brand of tubing is in there right now, I think it was the last bits of LRT I had And about 4-5 drops of biocide
  22. Without in any way sounding ungrateful, I mean that sincerely, but I've edited my OP to remove my explanation regarding the clouding tubing issues as the thread has got off subject somewhat. Believe me I have tried everything I can without buying and replacing all block and rads, which I can't afford to do at present. In this build I would like to run white tubing with a small amount of dye so I'm looking for input and info from anyone that has run this, as I think white tubing will look awesome in the rig, but I do want some colour in the fluid just for visuals in the reservoirs. I'm just unsure how white tubing reacts as I've never used it before, so I'm trying to find out if it stains or discolours very easily. Again, I sincerely appreciate everyone offering advice and trying to help me with narrowing down the cause of the clouding tubing, but it's something I've been dealing with for the past 3 years and I have tried everything, so I've just learned to accept it until I can replace all the loop components.
  23. It is within 1m of a large window, so direct sunlight could be a potential cause, I hadn't thought of that one. It will be interesting to see once my new rig is complete, because the cooling with be identical no changes at all, but it will be completely blocked from sunlight. As for the flushing out of residual contaminates, well I don't have access to some incredible strong acids that I've seen recommended previously, but one I do have and I've used a few times on the rads and blocks, is a highly concentrated catering vinegar. It's 26 parts vinegar to 1 part water dilute so it's extremely strong and corrosive, so it did take quite a bit of crap out the rads.
  24. Tubing I've used so far: XSPC Highflex (clear), Primochill advanced LRT (blue and clear), Masterkleer Tubing PVC (clear), one cheap catering quality tubing off amazon (clear), WatercoolingUK own brand PVC ultra clear (clear) and lastly Tygon (possible), I have a good idea it wasn't actually Tygon, I think it was a Tygon rip-off. Out of all of these, the Primochill advanced LRT and WatercoolingUK own brand ultra clear stuff seem to last the longest, but that was since 8 weeks before I could clearly and obviously see it clouding up and looking shitty. I might be a week or two out either way, but as I drain, flush and refill every 3 months on the dot, without fail, no tubing thus far has ever lasted a second term in the system. Fluids tried, distilled water nothing else, dis-water with a little Mayhem dye, dis-water with tiny amount of biocide, also with lots of biocide, no biocide instead a kill coil and finally biocide and a kill coil together.