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  1. Greetings, as the title suggests I have a problem with Samsung DeX or rather it's picture quality, it just looks… well, like garbage when connected to my PC. Here's an example: https://i.imgur.com/jbesqBv.jpg It's especially noticeable on the “gallerie” and “playstore” buttons on the left upper corner or the Chrome icon in the middle bottom. It's weird because some icons, text and pictures look “ok” while others look like garbage. I’m using a Galaxy S20 FE I tested it on two Win10 PC’s. A desktop with an Nvidia GPU and a laptop with an Intel IGPU (on the integrated laptop monitor ofc). I tried the original “charging cable” that came with the phone, I tried aftermarket 5Gbps anker cables and with a bluetooth to PC connection. Phone is connected to my Wifi 5G network - which has a theoretical throughput of 1.3Gbps - and I also tested with both the connected PC being either directly on a CAT6 cable to my router or in the same 5G Wifi. Resizing or fullscreening the DeX application window on Windows10 itself does nothing either. The only use case I got for DeX is to connect the phone to my PC, so that I can take notes or answer messages directly from there while waiting for matchmaking in those spicy video games the kids like to play. So apart from buying that, for me, utterly useless “dock” for DeX, is there a solution to fix or at least improve this? I mean a TeamViewer connection to the phone looks like 10x better than DeX... Thanks! Ps. The only relevant results I could find on this boil down to “TrY cHaNgInG yOuR mOnItOr ReSoLuTiOn”. Which, given that I’m using good old 1080p 16:9 monitors and resizing the window does nothing either, is about the same level of expertise as trying to refill one's car blinker fluid.
  2. Windows 10 should not be the cause of the issue, we got similar weak machines at work and they run it fine, well at least as fine as can be expected from the hardware, and that is including invasive antivirus systems and constant sharepoint & office365 synchronisations. A fading taskbar is usually a sign of windows installing something, like more broken updates, or an issue with the explorer. I would start by figuring out if there is a specific program or OS process causing high usage, use resource monitor for this and if you find something the solution should be obvious. If you can't nail it down it's probably a good idea to disable all the automatic windows task you can find, defragmentation, updates (set your connection to metered), telemetry, definitely kill cortana if you use it and if in doubt there are various ways in which you can disable the “eye candy” of windows 10 to make it a bit more lightweight. And just in case, if your SSD is filled up to more than 85%~ capacity, this can, rarely, also cause issues thanks to pagefile & system restore points and depending on the SSD manufacturer it could aslo be, simply put, just having built a cheap shitty SSD. On the other hand, it could also be simple overheating of the SSD/CPU or rather - unless you do not have an U CPU - turbo throttling for the CPU, especially on such an old device. But this again would most likely be caused by some "malfunctioning" background process...
  3. Nobody can tell you if any current CPU will or won't be bottlenecked by games that arent even out yet, so literally no idea for RDR2 & cyberpunk. For outerworlds you should be fine though. But there is no magical answer to your question, it always depends on the game and sometimes just lowering a single setting can fully remove an entire “bottleneck”. As for OC’d cards, it rarely matters. If you know how to overclock a GPU yourself (which really is not hard) you are looking at a performance difference of tops 5%. Though OC cards usually come with better cooling which in turn means less noise, more OC headroom (sometimes) and most importantly cool hardware is happy hardware.
  4. I had a similar issue with a 660 ti a few years back and the cause was a BCLK overclock, just a minor one of 102 or 103, but it was enough. So that could be a cause for it. It could also mean that the GPU is broken or rather “degraded” to such a high degree that it simply can't hold it's default clocks anymore. This could possibly be fixed with increasing the voltage (again suggestion afterburner for it - but not all cards allow this though). Could also be that your PSU is too weak/old/”broke”. A 750w should have no issues running your system but faults can show up anytime for no reason. So if you can, try a different PSU. Though personally I would lean towards the first two causes. Mainly the second one cus mining. Unless you trust the seller to have been 100% honest with you.
  5. There is no “reliable” GPU test, the only test is if actual games work. Everything else is synthetics and they don't represent real life usage, so you can't necessarily rule out the GPU which is where I would start by underclocking it, like -50core -100mem and see what happens. MSI Afterburner is prolly the most straightforward tool to do this. Alternatively in order of likelihood: Make sure your powerstrip works properly / use the pc directly from the wall. Disable antivirus and similar software and also make sure you don't run any emulator or such, believe it or not they can cause system freezes if being badly enough written and, like in your crash log, refuse access to certain resources for other programs. And yes, daemon tools and similar crapware can cause this too. You might did enable your RAM’s XMP profile in the BIOS - disable it and check for crashes. Also while there, make sure that the BCLK is set to 100. Overheating, while it sounds unreasonable, it can happen if the heat conduction is just shitty enough. Furmark makes basically no use of GPU boost (usually) and hence gives the card more time to react and to downlock to keep temps in check. Games on the other hand… Again I would suggest afterburner so you can keep an eye on the temps & clockspeeds, both mem & core. Lastly I would just try a different PCI-E slot on the motherboard. As this would also immedaitly rule out bad GPU seating.
  6. There is nothing you can or rather should do anymore to fix it yourself apart of opening the device and just re-plugging the fan yourself. However be aware that depending on your country & it’s laws this could void your warranty or at least open you up to additional “non-believe” if you end up sending the device in again. Anyway, unless it's a known problem with the device (which you would easily find via google than) and as you ruled out the software you are most likely looking at hardware problems such as: Defective fan header/cable. Defective fan. Defective power delivery from the motherboard. “Bricked” BIOS in the sense that it just f*s the fan settings. Which technically can be addressed by yourself but simply should not for as long as you got warranty as finding, paying and installing these parts is usually neither cheap nor easy.
  7. The most likely cause for such behavior on laptops is simply a damaged or loosely plugged in battery. It could also be something more “severe” but the battery is probably the only thing you could or rather should exchange yourself. To troubleshoot open the device up and unplug the battery then just start off the charger. If it works, you know it's the battery, if not it will be some hardware damage most likely. If the laptop still has warranty, make us of it instead obviously.
  8. Your CPU seems to be stuck at 800mhz, which it should not. Read the reply from Jurrunio for the most obvious fix. Also curios, why is MEM at 0mb? By default thats VRAM of D.GPU#1, which simply can not be at 0mb..
  9. Wired, but if it's fixed than all is good. Maybe it moved some "broke" sectors around or rather noticed them due to the check.
  10. Windows OS issue most likely. cmd -> sfc /scannow otherwise search manually for new updates and install those. If neither fixes it, might try a reinstall. Unless your SSD is filled up close or at its maximum capacity or your computer shows any other “strange” behavior, I’m like 90% sure it's just windows being crap again. Theoretically it could also be that your SSD is “damaged”, but I’m fairly certain this would show in in more ways than just installing programs. But still, run windows checkdisk if you think this could be the case.
  11. Interesting how suddenly it's at 73°C and not at 65 as claimed before. Anyway, as I don't know how to setup a ryzen system and my entire knowledge on that platform is basically from reviews I can't really provide any further guidance on the issue but ddennis seems to know his stuff, so good luck.
  12. Depends on what you are doing with the PC. Office work, light video/photo editing, web browsing or playing old or very light games, you probably won't notice it at all. If you are playing modern games or want “all the FPS”, above 1080p video editing and do more than just cut, piece together and render or still want to extract the most power possibly of your system in a few years down the road, than you will notice the performance impact somewhere between hard and slightly. However it is also always a question of how “equal” the RAM modules are, hence why they come in kits, so they are 1:1 the same. If they have different PCB rank builds, you can be looking at issues up to system crashes. If the CL timings or mhz is difference, then they will run at the slowest available, which one RAM module might can but that does not mean it does it well. It's kinda luck of the draw really, even if you try to match up everything as good as you can, the outcome can vary, especially if you want to use XMP, as that's a whole nother story of possible compatibility issues. Technically, you could go to a store and pick up the exact same ram stick and have issues with it, because yours can be built in single rank and the one you bought could be dual rank. Which is not to say that putting a new one in can't turn out to work perfectly, w/o issues or performance hit, but it's a low chance.
  13. Depending on where you take the data from to compare the “expected single core performance”, you need to consider a few more things such as almost all review sites will run these tests on a literally bare OS, no AV, no office, no network, no programs other than the benchmark ones. So obviously they get better scores, temps and whatnot than the end user will. Also ryzen boost clocks are temperature dependant: The TL:DR is, if you sit in an air conditioned room with a watercooler you will get way better results with these chips than any average person would. Which again, at least the air conditioning is common for review sites. Lastly to point out, the 3800x, while having more cores and whatnot is clock for clock not really faster than any 6000/7000 series Intel chip. Intel is still the IPC champion, AMD is just throwing cores at it, which depending on what you are using the chips for can be a good but also a bad thing.
  14. You can technically pair it with any RAM of similar specs, however if you care about performance you should not do so. Firstly I would just RMA the ramkit you currently have and ask for your money back, for a RAM stick to make pop noises is IMO a valid enough reason to tell a company to take it's product and stuff it up their butt. Then just pick up a new kit from either corsair or kingston with similar specs and might ditch the RGB, it just adds another possibly point of failure to a hardware that otherwise nearly never breaks or fails.
  15. My guess would be, in order of likelihood: Software issues. Driver, overclock, recording software or some “bloatware” background crap. Monitorcable broke or the port on either Monitor or GPU -> different cable, preferable also different type. (like if you got DVI to DVI atm, try HDMI to HDMI so you can rule out both at once - if you are using DP to HDMI or similar than this is the #1 likely cause) Monitor broke, usually they only flicker or go black for a few seconds, but I guess it can also break and show.. w/e it is it is showing, instead of black. GPU broke but equally likely, PSU is dying. If you can stomach it, run furmark or some other stress test and see if it gets worse the longer it runs or if you get BSOD. Alternatively clock down the GPU as much as you can, also move power target down as much as it allows you and see what happens.
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