hi100040

I normally super enjoy the WAN show but the quick mention of AMD financial stuff that they don't understand... banking people need these silly articles and do not want to know technical stuff about AMD or AMD/Intel comparisons. Also the Lumia thing honestly pissed me off and it took this long (a whole day) to get over it so that I can properly complain without just ranting. Linus the cool thing about the new Lumia is that the XL model is the first phone to have liquid cooling. iPhone will be #2 just like normal and Microsoft is first to market. Ok I'm done. Great show otherwise, Enjoy other techtip fans!

If memtest come back good still try one stick at a time. If that still doesn't work, get in touch with your mobo manufacturer again.

Your problem is CPU alright. The CPU connects directly to the mobo and RAM. I have never heard of a mobo just stopping out of nowhere but RAM dies all the time, no warning. The RAM and CPU clocks have to be synchronized to work properly so as far as I understand computers it makes sense that RAM COULD cause this issue even though I have not personally encountered this type of problem it only makes sense.

Since you already reseated your CPU when you checked for bent pins basically all you have left to do on a normal diagnostic checklist is check your RAM one stick at a time because you might have a bad stick. On my current build I had one stick go bad after only 6 months so it happens. This is a very strange problem you are having and I feel your pain.

As long as you have power going to the CPU 8pin you should be good. Since you have one totally try it but focus on the CPU, CPU socket, and RAM. Also you could try re-flashing your BIOS/ updating to a newer BIOS. Just to clarify, this did start happening out of the blue a few weeks ago but worked fine before that with proper clock speeds and everything?

Ok good to know. Please let me know how it goes.

​http://imgur.com/35FPjHv This is my CPU-Z. I highlighted the important piece of information, the multiplier. Yours will probably say 8-40 or 8-42. 8-40 would mean that your CPU has a variable clock, dependent on load, from 800 MHz to 4 GHz. On the desktop you will be near the bottom number but while in game it would be closer to the top, depending on the game. If you tab out of the game to check your CPU-Z on a single monitor it will go back to the lower number on most games because the game is not "running". Multiplayer games generally keep running in the background when you tab out. If your variable clock multiplier has an upper number of 40 or 42 you are good. Running a stress test like Prime95 you will see your core speed at its highest continually but as long as that multiplier is 40 or 42 and the bus speed is 100 MHz your CPU is actually behaving like it should... Intel CPUs are strange creatures.

Yeah check your BIOS, CPU-Z shouldn't change during games since it reads your system config.

I looked at your pcpartpicker on your profile, if this is the computer you are using cool build. Similar to mine! Same CPU so like I said before check your config with CPU-Z. Fix on your BIOS if it is weird on CPU-Z. If that is good I would check thermals since you are using an air cooler, maybe its dirty. If you are running hot, the variable clock rate technology on Intel would limit itself to keep from blowing up. EDIT: Sorry I forgot to refresh browser before responding.

Doing a refresh should do the trick if you really need to reinstall but I don't see how that would effect an overclock. (IDK what a over click is so I'm assuming a typo, correct if I'm wrong) To refresh hold shift when you click restart to get into the recovery boot thing and navigate the menus until you find refresh and click that. It resets everything to default but you will still be activated. As I hinted at before, I would guess your problem is not related to your Windows install. If you are using mobo software like ASUS 5-way Optimization it can reset your overclock in the OS, which would be my guess as to what's happening. Maybe try configuring your overclock in the software OR removing the software from the computer. Another guess as to what's happening is that you are using an Intel CPU which automatically underclocks when not under load to reduce power consumption. Use a stress tester to see the overclock or run a game that uses lots of CPU. Alternatively you can use CPU-Z to see what the overclock is set to as well as what you are actually running. I don't know if AMD CPUs have any similar power saving features but I know my Intel i7 CPU runs at 1.2 ghz when not doing anything but properly boosts up to 4.5ghz (my overclock) when running stress tests and when I benchmark my games. I'll try to reply as often as I can so let me know if you need more help.

I am going to buy a Zenfone 2, the higher end one is only $299 American. So it is definitely under OP budget.

Oh okay, only idea I have is running sfc/ scannow in an admin command prompt. If your install is corrupt according to the scan you should reset your Windows 8.1. Hold shift when you click restart to get to that menu. You will need your install media. If you haven't done this before this should help. Specifically the "Refresh your PC without affecting your files" section.

What I would do is unplug the HDD and do a fresh install on the SSD of Windows 7. Activate it using the automated phone system to move the activation from your HDD to the SSD. Then upgrade to Windows 10. Replug the HDD and reinstall the programs that make changes to the registry. The way I check this is running trying to run every program on the computer and reinstalling the ones that won't open. Microsoft software as a rule will need to be reinstalled. Java will also need a reinstall. Steam games will need to run the first time startup BS again but will not need to redownload. All other standalone games shouldn't need reinstalls. If you play Minecraft you will need to move your saves to the new AppData folder. Use your brain on other such edge cases like this. I really hope this helps.

I have spent the day installing it on all 5 computers in my house. Still think Ubuntu is a better option for people who are not computer literate. That said the current retail version of Windows 10 is very simple and speedy. My personal gaming desktop is updating as I type this using the download from Microsoft. My work laptop is waiting for the Get Windows 10 app to give the go-ahead. Both of my grandpa's computer were being used for the insider program and have since been set to stop receiving beta builds. My room mate's computer has been reverted back to Ubuntu because it makes more sense for him, wish he would have told me before I wasted 2 hours installing Windows 10 for him. I loved Windows 10 ever since I installed a beta build on my grandpa's desktop. 95% of the beta bugs have been hammered out and the remaining bugs deal with some of the apps. For instance the new netflix app has come a long ways in the last month that it has been available but still has some playback issues. Everything about the OS is solid though, everything works, no crashes. If you like Windows 8.1 you should definitely upgrade. If you like Windows 7, why wouldn't you upgrade?! You can set up the OS to be more like Windows 8.1 if you want under tablet mode or by making the start screen, full screen. If you miss the start menu from Windows 7, its back and much more logically laid out. Also, you can customize the start menu to fit your computing style. Also Cortana is the very first voice recognition that works more often than it doesn't that I have used. I use the location aware alerts on my phone all the time and being able to set them up while I am on my computer is something I am very excited to be able to do now. I am slightly biased as I am kind of a Microsoft fan boy. I am running Windows 10 on my Nokia Lumia 1020 and loving the entire buggy experience and personally can't wait for the finished product.

Are you trying to upgrade from Windows 7/8.1? If you are you need to wait. You will get a message when your computer is done downloading the update in the background. If you are upgrading from a different OS try the ISO approach. I have never had much luck with the auto upgrade tools from Microsoft (like for Office 365). Doing a fresh install from ISO is a sure fire way to have Windows 10 up and running at maximum efficiency.