Nite-Ninja

Greetings all. I've ran out of options. I have an old HP Omni 10 tablet running Windows 10. Its got a Intel Atom Bay Trail Z3770. All things considered, its still a great tablet. Now the problem I am having is, this machine thermal throttles, hard. But its not actually thermal throttling. At most I see it getting into the 70C range under load in AIDA64. Running AIDA64 stress test though, doesn't trigger it to "thermal throttle." However if I try to do any kind of multitasking, or play something as light as Bejeweled 3 or something, the thermal throttle line will peg to 100% and the CPU will downclock to 0.53ghz, and stay there until I restart the PC. I've tried using throttlestop to disable things like the turbo boost, undervolt it, etc. I've used registry edits to change the minimum processor state, but no avail there either. I have attached an image, I played Bejeweled 3 for about a minute before that thermal throttle line started, and when the game ran slow I stopped it to take the picture. But I've replicated it doing simple things such as opening a web browser or Windows Explorer I don't want to give up on this tablet yet. I've even tried installing Ubuntu on it, but it won't boot from USB, which I'm sure that's a separate issue. Any help or things to try will be greatly appreciated. I'm currently typing this on the tablet (using an external keyboard), and I type faster than it can put in the letters haha.

Just a shot in the dark, I know some of the people here are exceptional at giving advice and troubleshooting tips, so I figured its worth a try before just giving up. I have a MSI GX-70 laptop, its fairly old I know, but I still use it quite often as a guest computer, and now my daily driver while I go through a housing issue. Several months ago, I decided I was going to replace the keyboard, as many of the keys were worn out and some, like the S key, weren't even functional anymore. I figured this was just going to be a usual laptop keyboard changeout; crack it open, unscrew everything, unplug the old one, plug in the new one, put everything back together, and call it a day. Well, the laptop decided that this is not the way its going to do things. At a hardware level, the laptop decided to remap the keyboard. But not just the new ones not working (ones, yes, I bought 2 replacement keyboards, both are doing the same thing), the old one does the same thing as the 2 new ones do. The keys aren't even remotely correct. This even applies at POST, like hitting Delete does not go into the BIOS (whereas hitting Delete goes into the BIOS on an external keyboard). Things I've done, is reinstall all the drivers, reinstall Windows, update the BIOS, reseat over and over again the ribbon cable, verify that the rest of the laptop doesn't have loose connections, verified that language properties are set correctly, verified there are no other drivers available for the replacement keyboard, reinstalled Windows again, ran sfc /scannow to verify that nothing else could be wrong. I'm completely at a loss at this point. Maybe the motherboard is just shot now for some odd reason? Maybe theres something else I need to do to make it work? Thats why I've come to you, the LTT community to see if you can be just as stumped about this as I am. Here is the video:

Yeah I kinda tilted my head on reading that, but just reporting what I read. iFixit had no teardown guide on it that I could find.

Other than power delivery and temperature, artifacting isn't uncommon. Only things you can do at this point, is verify that the temperatures are consistent (and not spiking to max from time to time), verify your drivers are up to date, verify your display cables are in good working order, and that sort of thing. I've had artifacting from a bad display cable though, so might want to try another displayport cable if you have one handy. Or even trying to unplug the second monitor for awhile and see if the problem comes up. Could be dirty interference from an improperly shielded cable.

I've read more people buying RAM for the Ryzen CPUs and having issues, than anything I've ever seen before. Like platforms in the past, I can just take any old RAM off the shelf and shove it into the computer and it'll work. But Ryzen seems to be really picky. I wouldn't stray far from the compatibility chart.

Yeah but its not about the results, but about the learning experience in the process. I love the UV reactive loops though.

According to Notebookcheck, that thing has 1 of 4 slots filled, with a 16gb module in 1 slot. So it would make me think that it being unable to support 32gb of RAM with 4 slots is silly.

http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/SocketAM4/STRIX_B350-F_GAMING/ROG_STRIX_B350-F_GAMING_SummitCPUDDR4_DRAM_QVL20170520.pdf?_ga=2.43913701.1134372369.1515224137-574053921.1515224137 Heres your compatiblity chart. I don't see the ADATA 3000mhz one in that list.

Videocards usually start thermal throttling anyway. If you're using MSI Afterburner, you can set the throttling priority to either power, or temperature. And by default it has it at 94C. So download software such as Furmark that'll peg your GPU, and run it until you see the temperatures level off, and then a little more. Then start bumping your overclocks. One of 2 things will happen. You'll see the temperatures rise and level off again, or you'll crash the video driver. If your GPU driver crashes, restart the computer and dial back your overclock. You can also adjust your fan curve manually, typically these cards won't push the fans to 100%, but you can set it to that yourself, which is what I'd do between 88-94*C. But your mileage may vary. I have a 980ti Hybrid, and with the max sustainable overclocks I can push it without it crashing itself, I still only top out at 53C.

Doublecheck your motherboard compatibility too.

I feel you'll benefit better from the raw horsepower that the i7-7700k would give you. Even if you can't utilize it all now, lets say you find yourself down the line getting a flashy new GPU, now suddenly your i7 is even more relevant. If you're paying about the same as the 8th gen i5 anyway.

You should be able to find it in your motherboard manufacturers support page, typically they keep a record of all the BIOS' they have put out for this reason. I'd assume they'd have the directions to flash on their page as well. I really avoid BIOS flashing unless I know a machine absolutely needs it.

Yeah I don't consider an inch thick to be "bulky" but I also have a 2 and a half inch thick MSi GX 70 humming away across the room, so my perspective might be a tad skewed. To find a wide assortment of performance in an ultra book form-factor, you'll have to look into systems like the Razer Blade, but like the others you have linked above, you're going to be paying for a premium. There is no happy medium between price, performance, and portability for the time being. So far the one I pointed out has hit what I would feel from a CAD Designer's perspective, a decent happy medium. 8 cores 16 threads, 17 inches, while staying around an inch thick. So are you looking for something like a 15 or even a 13 inch powerhouse then? I have an ASUS Q504UA ultrabook which has a i5 7500U in it, which is a pretty decent processor for what it is, and I threw in 32gb of RAM into it as well as a 256gb NVMe SSD into it. I don't think I'd render complex CAD or Inventor drawings with it though, as even moderate video editing which is what I use it for right now, takes some time.

If the update wasn't to improve or fix anything, might be better just to go back to the old BIOS found in your motherboard manufacturers webpage to regain your overclocking functionality. You might also want to try software level overclocking.

I find myself always buying cheap headphones when they're on sale, and so far the best set of cans I've bought have been the JBL Syncros S300 from Newegg for $30 on sale. All metal build, memory foam cups, powerful bass, great highs, and comfortable to wear. https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826985041 Sadly I don't seem to see them there anymore. Personally, I prefer headphones with a seperate microphone. I have a Neewer NW700 condenser microphone that I use when I need to communicate, otherwise I'm usually just wearing headphones for media consumption.