Light-Yagami

No.

I was trying to give a definitive answer that is generally correct for most applications. Many people here tend to just say "it depends" and then go about their day. I agree with you, but dude just wanted some answers. Hardware Unboxed did memory scaling benchmarks, anyone can take a look and apply HU's findings to their needs.

I'll give you a quick crash course. 1. It's better to have lower latency than higher frequency 2. It's better to buy higher tier memory with lower latency at the expense of frequency. 3. RAM overclocking will give you at most 7-8% improvement if your CPU can handle it and if RAM can handle it. Usually though, it's only about 3-5%. 4. DDR4 - look for 3200/3600 CL14. DDR5 - look for 6000 CL30. Samsung RAM chips are inferior and you should avoid them.. I think the better ones are from TSMC but I'm not sure. Higher latency memory is almost always from Samsung tho..

If they use different panels, it is what it is. That's why I always recommend buying monitors from the same production year or if possible, from the same batch. It's how you make sure you get the same stuff. I'm sorry this happened to you.. If there's an option to return it, do so.. otherwise, try calibrating them as best as possible and leave it be. Maybe make the older screen a bit yellower to blend it better. Find a happy medium. I have 2 completely different displays, a TN and an IPS. Completely different colours. I've learned to ignore it and use them in accordance with their strong suits. Try doing the same.. I know it sucks..

Affirmative, perfectly within reason. I see you're of the civilised sort as well, sire. Proceed as you will. I shan't stand in your way.

throw them all away.. try going the extra mile and dispose of them in ancivilised manner. they are not worth investing anything into. I get the nostalgia though. I too have sth like 4 laptops I've outgrown and are now just sitting in my storage.. don't have the heart to throw them out.

4GB VRAM is more likely at fault for its miniscule memory size. Though I have a 6700K and when it gets overloaded, I get sound crackles, stutters and game physics slowdowns.. but you'll get miserable framerates way earlier than experience anything like you've mentioned from a CPU bottleneck. I rekcon it's the GPU choking on too little VRAM. Set textures and stuff like that to low, see if it helps.

5700X hardly pulls any power. Arctic freezer will do the job just fine. If you plan on OC-ing, get the AIO.. but it's not necessary. You'll get lower temps, but all within reason and performance will be the same.

A GPU with 300W TDP can have a peak load spike of 450W. If you 8pin rails can handle that on your PSU, you're fine. 850W is enough for your setup, the only thing you have to worry about is potential safety locks if you pull too much from one of the rails. Some will say upgrade, but as long as the combined PSU power of 8pin rails exceeds the 150% GPU TDP spike, you're more than okay. Some older PSUs have 850W over many rails and can't actually push that much over just 2-3 rails. So just check that.

As long as you have something 2step that doesn't allow someone to straight log in, you're okay. I run 2FA + verificator app for all my accounts, plus protection for when a new device is added that hasn't previously seen my account. You can never be too safe.

I'd recommend trashing the OEM and buying something newer. We're talking 12yo CPU here. It's not worth anything or investing into. Even the most basic i3 CPUs of modern architectures are vastly superior. I recommend you change your course of action.

Radiator will only reach the water temp. Water temp usually reaches between 28-31°C, depending on the load. It can be higher with smaller AIOs but with a 360mm rad, there's no way. It's normal that the rad doesn't heat up at all.. 8700K pulls sth like 140-150W under load? That's nothing for a 360mm rad. You're basically limited by heat density of the CPU and thermal transfer between IHS and cooling block. What you're experiencing is completely normal.

Just to reinsure anyone who's using my extensive tutorial to unlock the 9700 series - I've crosschecked the method with multiple users from LTT forums and otherwise and it works 100%. I can't answer for anything that happened after I've stopped supporting and updating the topic! Best Regards, LY

My advice - disable sleep. Best and fastest way. Or go into bios and try to prevent PCIe from tapping out on sleep, if that's the problem - idk if it is.

Yes, it's a well rounded PC, will give completely satisfactory gaming experience at 1080p. GPU is about the same speed as RTX 3060ti for raster workloads. And the CPU is quite good, slower in gaming than 5600X, but faster in multicore. Also has integrated GPU. It's a well rounded system. If you buy, check temps and see if cooling is assembled and working properly and take a look into bios to see if XMP is enabled on RAM.

2950x will bottleneck the 4090 because it has low single core performance. It basically means no high FPS gaming, where you need really high single core performance. You'll probably leave around 30-40% performance on the table, at least. 2950x can't even keep up with a 3090. If you're gonna change the GPU to a lightspeed card like a 4090, you need at least a 13700K or 7700X to go along with it. That's just how it is.. You're looking at a completely new PC build. I'm saying this because it would be a shame if you dropped 2 grand on a GPU and not even be able to take advantage of it.

Keep in mind that you'd be buying a laptop that runs on Haswell, an 8 year old architecture that precedes skylake and its improved iGPU with quicksync, hardware encoding and so on.. I had a laptop with i7-4710HQ and its iGPU can not handle todays standards like VP9/AV1/HEVC through hardware, you're pretty much limited to 1080p playback if you don't want to peg the CPU. GPU is also ancient, and apart from some light 3D work like CAD or photo editing.. it's dead weight. If you can live with the fact that a 2015 macbook has the power of todays lowest end i3 CPUs and that its dedicated GPU is as fast as todays integrated GPUs.. go for it. I'll say something though. If you want to buy used, at least buy something that came out after the CPU boom that came with Ryzen in 2017. Even better if you can get a laptop with intel 11th gen hybrid or ryzen 4000 series and up.. If you choose to go ahead and buy the 2015 macbook, change the battery and undervolt the CPU once you've installed Windows on it. In any case, you might be spending 3 times less for it once you've replaced the battery.. but you're also getting 4 times less performance, 7 years of usage already on it, no software support, poor battery life due to inefficient hardware.. do what you think it's best.

Yeah you have to go into bios and set boot device to USB.. it won't get picked up just by plugging it in.

Gamers Nexus do not review mobile CPUs, because they can not guarantee consistent data across different notebooks, according to them. They deem that area of testing beyond their scope and won't touch it. Hardware Unboxed however - Tim does excellent mobile CPU analysis. I dropped some links of videos that will provide very good understanding of the 6000 series in general, high performance parts as well as efficiency parts. I'm surprised you're not familiar with them.

If you can't get it to reinstall windows and keep the data, take the drive to a data restore centre and let them fish it off for you. And install a clean image of windows. I had a similar issue where it would fail to update windows 10 after a certain point and boot loop until I restored previous stable instance. I just reinstalled from the disc and then it updated just fine. I hope you get it sorted. I ran out of patience with Windows a long time ago. If it starts spitting out errors and crashing on updates and what not.. I don't even bother anymore. It's clean reinstall immediately. Much better for my nerves.

If you cleaned the whole MoBo with isopropyl alcohol thoroughly, especially around power delivery components that corrode immediately and if there is no corrosion on the MoBo even after extensive testing, then it's completely fine. None of the Coke could have gotten under any heatsinks because there is no space. It doesn't make any sense to remove them.

Oh okay.. listen, those few mts below the set spec aren't a big deal. If I were you, I wouldn't worry about it and just enjoy the system.. I know how you feel though. I delided my 6700K and completely revamped my cooling setup just so I could squeeze another 200mhz out of it. Less than 5% increase in performance, but I did it anyway. But in terms of RAM.. don't worry about it, really

@Xerunala if the objective difference between 6000 at 30 nad 6400 at 32 is only 1-2%, then don't worry about it an run at a higher CL value. I suppose you've already tested that. Since it wouldn't make any sense to go through all the trouble of tuning the RAM if there's only a couple of percentage points in it. Try tuning the CPU instead.. with some custom curves, you can get these new Ryzen chips to hold insanely high frequencies under light tasks.. some Tmax offsets and so on.. I think JayzTwoCents has an interesting video on it. Where he was able to extract much more performance from the CPU by tuning down the voltage offset and temperature in some way.. Give it a watch, your core voltage is pretty high.

That's why I don't watch LTT for CPU reviews in general. For accurate data that might be dry but correct (not saying LTT's isn't, it's just very diluted) and will offer you a very good idea of the general CPU performance, efficiency in different workloads and value - watch Hardware Unboxed or Gamer's Nexus. There are others that also offer objective data in a clear manner, but I stick to there two for accuracy. And yes - they (LTT) should definitely state that battery life increase only holds true for video playback.. if they didn't state that and claimed double the battery life based on a YouTube playback test, then.. that's false info. At the end of the day, it's best to look at different information sources to make an educated opinion. Watch an analysis or two and so on.. Channels like TechTechPotato hosted by Dr. Ian Cutress and AdoredTV (technology vision) hosted by Jim, very good industry analyst.. LTT is for the masses.

Set it to 120mhz higher in BIOS and see if it holds 6000mts in CPUz. Does the clock fluctuate even if you run it as stock settings? And does it fluctuate if you turn off XMP? (if that's what it's called, i missmatch intel and amd sometimes)