Uboatfreak

Thanks for the advice. I might if I find myself bottlenecked. But I plan to build a new PC in a year so I might not bother.

Yes, I did. Even one stick in slots 3 or 4 will prevent POST if the memory is set to more than 1066 Mhz.

Hello! I am making this post to ask which memory setup is better: DDR3 Dual Channel 4x4 gb 1066 Mhz or Single Channel 2x8 gb 1600 Mhz. Context: A couple weeks ago I managed to bend some pins on my Z77 Asrock Extreme4 motherboard (do NOT try to install a CPU when you have not slept for 24 hours!). I took it to a repair shop and they straightened the pins and it works, but they told me one of the memory channels no longer works. I have 4 sticks of 4 GB Corsair XMS 3 DDR3 memory sticks. I played around with different memory configurations and discovered that the second channel can work if and only if I set the RAM speed to 1066 Mhz in the BIOS. Otherwise, if I set it at 1333 or 1600 and there is a memory stick in the second channel, the PC will not POST properly, it hangs up at Dr. Debug code 49 (EM post memory initialization codes) or sometimes 33 (CPU post-memory initialization. Cache initialization) and then the PC restarts and repeats the process. Is it worth it for me to get a new 2x8 gb memory kit to use it in single channel at 1600 Mhz? Or is 1066 Mhz dual channel a better option? I plan to build a new PC in a year anyway, so this one will become secondary. Things I need my PC for: gaming, I want to run most AAA games before 2017-2018 without bottlenecks cause by the RAM. These days I mostly play GTA 5, Minecraft, Dying Light. I also do some light amateur video editing, mostly Handbrake compressions and trimming and combining videos. programming, running IDEs like IntelliJ, Eclipse, CLion, Android Studio, some C/C++ compiling (I am a CS student). a lot of Machine Learning, which I plan to run on my GPU, probably a lot of deep learning with TensorFlow. Specs: CPU: i7 2600K 4.3 Ghz Noctua NH-D14 CPU cooler Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 RAM: 4x4 GB Corsair XMS3 DDR3, normally runs at 1600 Mhz GPU: EVGA GTX 980 Superclocked Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 256 GB SSD + a hard drive PSU: Seasonic S12II Bronze 620W Thank you in advance!

She said she would not like since she said it might slow her connection down. Would that be true? Her powerline adaptor is this model https://www.tp-link.com/us/home-networking/powerline/tl-wpa4220net/#overview . I was looking to buy this model https://www.amazon.co.uk/TL-WPA4220KIT-Powerline-Broadband-Configuration-UK/dp/B01LXOZ4EN/ref=pd_sbs_147_1/258-7520756-7705918?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01LXOZ4EN&pd_rd_r=ea15df52-cc2c-4f1a-aa05-094eb94dc516&pd_rd_w=fyeVV&pd_rd_wg=MaeKB&pf_rd_p=cc188cba-1892-42b3-956f-6c67d0ab7a00&pf_rd_r=Y619PAFJH68T00NZHYYJ&psc=1&refRID=Y619PAFJH68T00NZHYYJ . They both have the same model number, it's just that hers is AV500 and the one I want is AV600. Since they both support HomePlug AV, IEEE802.3, IEEE802.3u, IEEE802.11b/g/n, I should be good, right?

What exactly do you mean by power circle?

No, never heard of that. I will look into it.

The router is from the ISP, and handles TV as well. The others are fine with the wifi so that is not an option, and neither is mesh wifi. Everyone has a decent wifi signal except me.

I live as a tennant in a shared house. My room is the furthest away from the router, and my Wifi signal is not that good, especially when my housemates use Wifi as well. I am looking into the possiblity of buying a pair of powerline ethernet adaptors. The problem is one of my house mates is already using a pair so that she can connect her PC. One of her adaptors is plugged into the router in the living room. If I were to buy one adaptor, plug it into my room and connect it to her adaptor in the living room, would that slow down the connection to her room? If the answer is yes, would it be a problem if I plugged one of my adaptors in an extension cord in the living room? There are only two wall sockets next to the router, one is used by her adaptor and the other by extension cord, which is where the TV, router and TV box are plugged in. Otherwise, I would have to run an ethernet cable across the living room to another socket, which is not ideal.

I do not think there is any round connector like you are describing.

The orange and white wires came off. As you can see, the end of the cable is covered in a rubber jacket.

I have recently moved my desktop PC to where I live during university term time, and I was checking everything is alright after re-assembling it ( since it shipped ot piece by piece) and noticed that when I plugged in my earphones into the front panel audio jack I hear electrical background noise. Plugging the earphone into the back audio jack made the sound dissappear. I took a lool at the audio cable and it seems tp be alright. I am attaching a photo of my front panel PCB, the audio cable is in the middle. I did some research online and some people have this problem because the USB front panel cable causes interference. I plugged out the front panel USB cable out of the motherboard and reareanged the audio cable so it is as far way from other cables as possible and the noise was still there. Also, the noise only appears after the Windows logo dissappears at startup. The noise can not be heard during POST or while in BIOS. So it seems it might be a driver problem as well? The sound is most noticeable with mt earphons. If i plug in my Logitech G430 headphons the sound is barely audible. The thing is, I can hear a very similar sound out of my speakers if press my ear against them. Could this be just because of the electrical power grid being different? The PC and speakers are plugged in a Europlug socket extension lead which is plugged into a Europlug to Type G UK plug adaptor. I do not remember having this problem before, as I usually plug my headphones into a USB port with the surround sound adaptor they have. I am using Windows 7 Ultimate Edition and my motherboard is an Asrock Z77 Extreme4.

I was doing some work on my PC and I accidentally pulled off the restart cable from the switch under the front restart button. I have managed to push it back in and after a lot of tryinh the restart button seems to work every time I press it. My question is, is there any easy way I could glue it back permanently?

I see, thank you! Given that my battery still has more than 80% of its original capacity, would you recommed doing a battery recalibration like it is described here? https://www.windowscentral.com/how-calibrate-battery-your-windows-10-laptop

Hello! My laptop's battery was completely discharged in early July, but after I returned from a holiday I completely forgot about it and did not use my laptop for two months. So my laptop battery stayed at 0% for two months. After I opened it again, HWMonitor said my battery wear was at 19%, and I noticed my battery was discharging noticeably faster during normal use. A month and a half later of ocasional use, HWMonitor says the wear is at 16% and the battery seems to discharge slower than in early September. Is there anything I can do to make my battery last longer? I have read online recalibrating it would work, but I am not sure discharging it completely again would be beneficial. In addition, why has the wear level gone down? My laptop is an Acer Aspire VX15, if it matters.

Hello Wild Penguin, Sorry for the late response. I had some personal emergency the day after I posted this and just forgot about this for 2 weeks. Thank you very much for your informative response! Even if you just told me to reinstall Mint, you gave me a btter understanding of how Linux works. I will make sure to not make /home as a separate partition this time, I will make another partition to use jointly with Windows. Have a nice day!