Wynter

My desk setup is weird and the only room for the case is to my left, under the desk. It's not just the table top, also has sides and half a back, "trapping" the air in there. Best option for me is front intake and most of the exhaust in the top, like I have it with my Cooler Master 840 case right now. Warmed air will spread under the desk and escape forward and up ideally. With a back intake it wouldn't work out. I see how the Hybrid rad would impact the H100i performance but it should still be alright unless I OC the hell out of it and need those few degrees headroom. It would all be a lot easier if putting the Hybrid rad in the bottom was OK.

Hey I want to move my hardware into a different case and ever since noticing the Corsair 740, I really like that one. Will the component fan combination fit though? I'd like to put a Corsair H100i v2 into the top section of the case and use two Noctua NF-F12s in push. I also want to put my EVGA 1080 FTW Hybrid's radiator with two NF-F12s in push pull in the front for intake. Since the rad is supposed to be above the GPU, I'd ike to use the top fan position for that, then fill the rest of the two slots below with other fans I have lying around, probably NB eLoop B12-2. Will that fit though? I'm afraid the second (pull) fan on the Hybrid radiator will impact the H100i v2. What about the tubing orientation of the H100i? Right is likely to run into the second fan. Will left get in the way of the exhaust fan? I figured I'd throw the included two 140mm from the front into the bottom and use them as intake as well. Sadly Corsair neglected to put in a filter for that. All I found was one by Demciflex for 280x140mm rads - well that size seemed to fit best. Can anybody recommend it?

I suggest adding Mentos to enhance the performance.

Yeah I'd thought of those, wanted to get the 80mm version, but then saw it's actually 100mm + fitting and it just doesn't fit That 40 seems way too small. The Monsoon is supposed to be different, apparently easy to bleed according to the review videos. I've had the machine running with open res and open bleed port of the top rad. I've also removed some coolant from the res, leaving it at ~80% to avoid overflow. The tissues I placed over the opening just kept getting soaked. At the moment there aren't that many bubbled, that much foam in the res. Before it looked a bit like somebody had put in soap. The air pocket keeps moving though. I can hear it, sometimes more, sometimes less frequently. What's also driving me towards getting the Monsoon res, I could finally put my BD-ROM back into the case.

There's no other position I can fill the loop in. The res only has that one hard to reach plug and you can't go and just open and close it as you please. Wish it had an Allen key plug, then it would be easy to close. Otherwise it's a massive pain. I did the whole fill, turn pump on, off, fill, on, off thing. The logic behind the design escapes me completely. You need a fill rate of at least 50% or the pump starts running dry. The last 10% or so are almost impossible to use, at least with open reservoir, because of the weird alignment of the plug and coolant possibly spilling out. Yeah I've seen videos and read about it - keeping the pump running while you keep filling is a pretty sure way to fry the thing. I've tilted and shaken the case a bit with open radiator bleed/fill port and left it open while running the system now. Theoretically it's the highest point in the loop. Otherwise I'm still thinking about the Monsoon res. I'm also considering adding a valve to the top outlet of the 240mm rad. Adding a long enough tube should help bleed that bugger more quickly. I've seen videos of people ruining their pumps using tube reservoirs as well. Doesn't matter how you hook it up if you just keep it running while trying to fill it. There's one re-uploaded one from wherever. Pump kept running but the flow just didn't want to really take off. In the end the pump was running more quietly, as he happily noted, but it sounded like it pretty much had already died and not entirely given up yet. I would get one of those two glass tube reservoirs mentioned above immediately, but there is just not enough room in the CM 840 case.

And it would be what I initially wanted, a pump res combo. I don't have the room for a tube res in my case, thought about ordering and attaching an 80mm Bitspower Z Multi with a double nipple to my pump top, but it's 100mm in height + the fitting and just won't fit into my 5.25" bays. The lowest one is occupied and the pump Shoggy combo eats up two slots. Putting in an XSPC Photon 170 or an Aquacomputer Aqualis Eco with nano coating would be a dream. Glass! None of that possibly untempered plexi BS A WEEK?! Geez. I did a 4-6h leak test and kept tilting until I couldn't get any more liquid into the loop, then let it run. After that I opened both the valve at the upper radiator and the reservoir and let it run for a day, say 12-15 hours give or take. Nothing changed. Bubbles kept forming, it still gluckered every so often. Temps are sweet though. Especially GPU made me happy. open case: 22C Ambient 27C Water 34C GPU load 24C GPU idle -- like lowest CPU core idle. 24 30 33 28 With a closed case the GPU is usually 1-2C below the lowest CPU core. I was told that exhausting the smaller rad heat into the case and using that air to cool the upper bigger rad was inefficient. So far so good though. Should it really have an impact, I thought about cutting a hole into the side and adding a 200mm fan for intake. At the moment there's just one 200 stock fan for intake and aside from the 3x NF-F12's just an eLoop B12-2 for exhaust.

Hey I asked about recommendations for my loop several months ago and ended up with following after an upgrade from CPU only to CPU/GPU: Laing DDC-pump 12V DDC-1T with Phobya Laing DDC Pump Top - Brass - black matt Edition Alphacool Repack Single Bayres 5,25" - Rev. 2 Alphacool NexXxoS XP³ Light - Acetal - Intel/AMD Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 360mm Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 240mm Phobya TPC 4x Fan- or Pump-Controller 30Watt each Channel - Single Bay 5,25" Watercool Heatkiller GPU-X³ GTX 680 "Hole Edition" Ni-Bl + Backplate Bitspower thermo sensor G1/4 16/10 -- 3/5 - 3/8 Aquatuning fittings 16/10 -- 3/5 - 3/8 Masterkleer tubing Cooler Master 840 case 360er rad up top connected to the bay reservoir going down to the pump on a Shoggy V2 underneath going over to the CPU block going down to the GPU block going over to the 240er rad going up into the 360er rad. The pump's throttled via fan controller to ~2800rpm. I've attached an angle and a valve to the 360 rad bleed port at the back of the case. The bit between the GPU and the 240 rad near the drive cage is always empty/full of air when I turn the system off. I've tilted and shaken the case to get the air up, either into the reservoir or the upper radiator. I've also had the system running with both that valve and the reservoir open for 12+ hours at some point. The air just does not seem to want to escape. The reservoir has been bugging me from the start. It's a pain to fill and bleed. That's why I had to open up the bigger radiator and add the fill/bleed option. Ever since Ron Sanut's video, I've liked this one very much. Monsoon Series Two DDC Premium Dual 5.25 Reservoir - Matte Black http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p15956_Monsoon-Series-Two-DDC-Premium-Dual-5-25--Reservoir---Matte-Black.html However, I am uncertain whether it will make much of a difference. That and the 100 EUR price tag kept me from instantly ordering it. I've been wondering how it is that it is always the bit between the GPU and the lower radiator that ends up with the air when I turn the system off. Always, never anywhere else. It's obviously working properly but the noise is driving me nuts. I can hear the bubbles forming in my reservoir and then there's ironically the sound a water cooler does make. m( Any ideas?

Max Payne 3 was massive. Don't have it installed ATM. Assassin's Creed 3 (16.6GB) Diablo 3 (20.3GB) Guild Wars 2 (19.1GB) Star Craft 2 (13.1GB) Modern Warfare 2 (17.1GB) Modern Warfare 3 (14.3GB) Crysis 2 (12.4GB) Defiance (11.0GB) Left 4 Dead 2 (12.4GB) Portal 2 (11.1GB) Tomb Raider (10,2GB) Dungeons & Dragons Online (11.2GB) BioShock Infinite (16.9GB) GTA IV (15.4GB) GTA IV Episodes (16.4GB)

No idea about new metal bands but Amon Amarth has a relatively new album out: "Deceiver of the Gods". And I'm waiting for the new Carcass album "Surgical Steel" And the term "metal" is very vague. :P

Switzerland and Denmark as a kid, don't really remember that. Netherland France Austria Bavaria LOL

Yes, they can if your network switch or router integrated network switch supports the Auto-MDIX standard, which it normally should. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Auto-MDIX#Auto-MDIX Just plug it in and see if it works. That's normally faster than digging through the manual :D

Time for an update. I did the build and it ate up my entire Saturday. The machine is back up and running again, however, with a flaw. There is air in the loop that I cannot get out, apparently to a tubing SNAFU on my part. The pump is pulling air from he reservoir. Yeah did I did the shaking and tilting, but it didn't help. Here's what I got: Alphacool NexXxoS XP³ Light - Acetal - Intel/AMD Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 360mm Laing DDC-pump 12V DDC-1T Phobya Laing DDC top - brass - black matt Edition (second quality) Aquacomputer Shoggy Sandwich building kit for pump decoupling - Version 2.0 Alphacool Repack Single Bayres 5,25" - Rev. 2 Innovation Cooling Diamond 7 Carat - 1,5g Innovatek Protect concentrate by Aquatuning 500ml 3x Noctua NF-F12 PWM ( 120x120x25mm ) + 5in1 PWM cable Masterkleer PVC 16/10mm (3/8"ID) UV-active clear/blue It was a massive pain in the arse in so many ways. I was already able to see that the store I wanted to buy from - Aquatuning - ran out of components I wanted to use. Not an issue. I can order the stuff someplace else. And so I did the week before I did the "big" order. Turned out that particular eBay vendor was unable to deliver neither res nor tubing and I only found out a week later. That was when I had still hoped and planned on using the red tubing. He then offered to send me any other colour. I told him clear/blue or clear would be alright. Then there was silence. Meanwhile Aquatuning had sent out the good and they were damn fast as well. I ordered the res from another vendor and it was here quickly as well, leaving me waiting just for the bloody tubing. So I made another order, this time through the Amazon marketplace. Clear/blue retail kit, go. That one arrived last Friday. Funnily enough the previously ordered tubing arrived on Saturday. Looks like I got some spare then. Building the thing was damn annoying. I put the fan brackets on the radiator, had previously mounted the fans to the bottom, tried to get it into the case and ... it didn't fit! I had to take off the tower fan anyway. Turns out I had to remove the fan brackets again and then put the whole thing together and mount it screw by screw. Surely could have needed a third hand there. When that was in, all was well, or so I thought. Turns out Cooler Master seriously half arsed the mainboard tray cut out, exposing only half of the backplate. So I had to take the whole machine apart. It'll make it easier to mount the new backplate for the CPU block anyway. No instructions whatsoever, lots of guess work, lots of things not fitting. I estimated that if I used the rubber bits, the backplate would have stood out far enough to actually touch the mainboard try. So that went back into the box and I went without it. CPU block was just awesome and easy. Somebody suggested I waited ~10 minutes after putting on the IC Diamond. I had never used it before and so I just did that. The stuff works like a charm. Amazing :D Tubing - that pissed me off. It's so tight in there and I had to rethink the way I wanted the tubes to go to just fit the pump in properly. Add the weight of the Phobya top and the Shoggy almost disintegrated on me. I ended up using cable ties to keep it all together. Other than that it seemed easy. Push, screw, done. Filling took a bit but it filled up, except for that last bit of air. In the end I filled the reservoir up to ~90%. Else the pump would have kept pulling even more air. The tubing was supposed to come out of the res, do a little curve and come down to the front of the pump. Since it's very tight there it does a little twist and slightly goes up first. I can only imagine that's what's causing the air issue. That's what it sounds like in the case: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/4049716/WC/Memo.m4a The case is still open. I've dropped the OC for now because there were instabilities. So it's 3.8GHz at an offset of -0.120V again. Coolest core is just 1C above ambient. Ridiculous! :D Highest core is 8-11C above the coolest. Depends on program output and update frequency. I've had that on air before as well. That's pretty much idle at the moment 26C 32C 36C 32C The Noctuas are controlled via UEFI. Regular setting is at 20%, 800RPM, temp threshold at 60C for 100%. I tried 50C before but the fans ramped up their speed on the curve and it went very noisy far before reaching those 50C. The open case doesn't help with the noise. LOL Either way, it's just plainly amazing. All the troubles and frayed nerves aside, I love it. How quickly the temps go up and come back down again. It just rocks. I'll wait for a bit now, then redo the loop and do some cable management. Can't wait for phase 2, the other 240 rad and GPU block. BTW, I let the thing run for 5-6 hours to test for leaks and then put a hand in every day before turning it on to make sure. Should be alright. Oh, one thing puzzled me. I got 16/10mm fittings and tubing. Ehrm that's G1/4, 3/8ID? Sorry that unit mix keeps throwing me off. You're supposed to push the tube over the barb, then screw on the fitting, then give it a pull to make sure it's tight. Well, I did that and the tube came off every time and I wasn't doing any brute force circus acts on it either. I just pulled. I tried it with both tubes from those two vendors. Are you just supposed to give it a light tug? It was even worse with 90° angle bits. The barbs are shorter there. I just found it very odd. As for pump strength, turns out the DDC-1T has got plenty of power :D

Apparently Roccat's been showing the Ryos MK Pro at Computex, but the articles didn't mention anything new really. As far as I know, the keyboard will initially not come with O-rings. Those are supposed to be available as an option you can order later on. No idea about pricing, whether they will include them later or how it's supposed to all work out. My money is still on August and I better be right. Gonna order water cooling stuff hopefully later on and can't afford the keyboard then LOL

AFAIK you will be able to buy it as an option. Same for the thermal armor. Unless I got it wrong, it is not included - unless it's a TUF series mainboard. JJ from Asus was presenting the hell out of the new products for 3 hours on Ryan Shrout's live stream earlier. That Formula one looked damn sexy with the armor on. I wish they'd do the same for the Extreme.

Awesome stuff! Here's my tweet: https://twitter.com/PW_75/status/342114907510165504