Anima Tech

Well, that's the thing.. I have: The only way to get to Helpdesk is to put another drive in without my RAID5 array to have access to QNAP's web GUI.

Im having problems getting mdadm to show anything. Do i need to set my SATA controller into RAID mode(RAID5 isn't supported on my mobo.) in Bios or something to get this working? Current setting is ACHI. It just shows: Personalities: unused devices: <none> Done. Now what should i do? I also ran fdisk -l on the Ubuntu machine - Results Here is the ReclaiMe array layout info as well

Nothing changed. Im plugging the drives into a machine running Ubuntu, in order to get the full set of Linux tools to use for this problem. Also when i plug them into the Ubuntu machine, is there a tool to find out the correct order? Or is it just trial and error?

-sh: fsck: command not found

failed to get exclusive lock on mapfile - continue anyway... I just did as Google told me and it told me to use "mdadm --assemble /dev/md1 /dev/sda3 /dev/sdb3 /dev/sdc3 /dev/sdd3" when reassembling any RAID5 array [~] # cat /proc/mdstat Personalities : [linear] [raid0] [raid1] [raid10] [raid6] [raid5] [raid4] [multipath] md1 : active raid5 sda3[0] sdd3[3] sdc3[2] sdb3[1] 17551702848 blocks super 1.0 level 5, 64k chunk, algorithm 2 [4/4] [UUUU] md322 : active raid1 sdc5[3](S) sdd5[2](S) sda5[1] sdb5[0] 7235136 blocks super 1.0 [2/2] [UU] bitmap: 0/1 pages [0KB], 65536KB chunk md256 : active raid1 sdc2[3](S) sdd2[2](S) sda2[1] sdb2[0] 530112 blocks super 1.0 [2/2] [UU] bitmap: 0/1 pages [0KB], 65536KB chunk unused devices: <none> I updated the fdisk -l to show md1: Disk /dev/md1: 17972.9 GB, 17972943716352 bytes 2 heads, 4 sectors/track, -1 cylinders Units = cylinders of 8 * 512 = 4096 bytes Disk /dev/md1 doesn't contain a valid partition table

Oh, that's handy. I assume there is a tool to make such an USB stick? Also which distro should i put on a stick? It sure is.. And that's why it's been such a royal pain in the butt to Google how to fix my issue. https://pastebin.com/5XRAsFC0 I will add that to the main post as well. Should i have added my RAID5 array to that as well? With assemble? It always forgets everything about it when i reboot.

I do have full backups of all the important data, but there are files that i never had enough space for in my backup NAS. It's these files that i even bother to try and fix this for, since there is only 1 copy of them and it's on the NAS which i have problems with. The data that i might lose is not so important that i'd wanna spent money to have it recovered by some service. I suppose i could install Linux on a spare HDD, but i still haven't got enough space to put all that data to. But if that's the final option, i'll do it and use the new HDDs to upgrade my backup NAS to have enough space for full backups of the main NAS after all that.

Oh, my bad. Going to have to edit that bit. I have no idea how to restore the backups with PuTTY, im not even sure if i have any recent ones. -sh: lsblk: command not found

Hello! Due to an extended power loss my NAS lost power during raid scrubbing or shutdown process (dunno which). Side note: I have an UPS hooked up to it, but my auto shutdown timer was set a bit too high value and my UPS ran out of juice. Resulting in something getting scrambled with my hardware RAID5 and NAS not booting up. I have PuTTY access to my NAS and the status LED is blinking green, after i somehow managed to get it a little less messed up (At least i hope so.) . I don't want to use something like ReclaiMe RAID software to rescue my files. Because, it takes forever for it to even find all my files and then reinstall my NAS from nothing if that's at all possible to avoid. Before i even knew i could accidentally trigger resync, i ran "dmesg" and it triggered it and completed successfully as far as i know. Before resync, 1/4 HDDs was showing "Active" status in "mdadm -E /dev/sdc3" and "clean" in the rest of them. Now all 4 show as "clean". This is what i have tried so far, in the order i tried things(Pastebin links to results): After i somehow got the damn thing to boot without blinking red status LED, i pressed the "Reset to factory defaults" button in web GUI, in hopes of it allowing me to get to QOS to fix the RAID array. No such luck, since QNAP in their infinite wisdom requires at least 1 working HDD with QOS installed on it, which is on the broken RAID5 array -.-*. I can't just use some random HDD for QOS either because the RAID tool in QOS requires all RAID discs to be installed. Which is impossible with my 4 drive setup, unless someone knows how to fool the system to think that an USB HDD is an internal one and thus allow installing QOS on it. dmesg (Right after it no longer booted up and was flashing red status LED) The rest of these are after resync. mdadm -E (HDD 1-4) mdadm --assemble /dev/md1 /dev/sda3 /dev/sdb3 /dev/sdc3 /dev/sdd3 - This errors always. mkdir /share/NAS2 - No problem there mount -t ext4 /dev/md1 /share/NAS2 - Got error again: wrong fs type, bad option, bad superblock on /dev/md1, missing codepage or other error. In some cases useful info is found in syslog - try dmesg | tail or so. cat /proc/mdstat + mdadm --detail --scan + mdadm -D /dev/md??? umount - Tried that for md322 and md256 after i still didn't get the array to mount, no luck. cat /proc/mdstat - I used that to check for the resync progress. tail - I have no idea how to use that or it doesn't work on my NAS I forgot the commands for these, but i also tried to use backup superblocks and to stop all services before using "assemble" again after it errored out. Edit1: lsblk: command not found Edit1: fdisk -l Edit1: fsck: command not found Edit3: Ran lsblk on Ubuntu machine with the drives from my NAS - Results Edit3: Ran fsck on Ubuntu machine with the drives from my NAS - Results Edit3: Ran fdisk -l on Ubuntu machine with the drives from my NAS - Results Edit4: ReclaiMe - Result After my Google-fu failed to get me detailed enough answers to my specific problem, this is what i have gathered about the problem so far: - I have no hardware failures or problems. - I possibly have something wrong with the superblock and i haven't been able to use the backup ones. - There are 2 RAID1 arrays, which get created on each startup. This may have something to do with factory reset. Do i need to delete those and if so, how do i do it? - The resync probably helped, but according to Google it may have messed up things beyond repair? - I have little to no knowledge about Linux, so using common sense and according to info gathered with mdadm everything looks good, but is it? My NAS (for fast reference): Model: QNAP TS-451+ HDDs: WD Red 6TB x4 RAID5 + External USB3 enclosure with some 128Gb Kingston SSD with Windows 7 installed thru Virtual Station for TeamSpeak3 server and for easy NAS management via TeamViewer. Firmware: 4.3.3.0.4.0.4 Factory reset done after RAID failure (The option specifically said that no data would be lost.) PuTTY access only Edit2: I May have messed up the drive order when i tried out ReclaiMe RAID software. Is there a way to verify which order the drives should be? If any info is missing from the post, i'll add it as requested. If i have understood everything correctly, all i need to do is to get the array assembled and mounted without errors and then save changes to mdadm.conf. (I don't know how to do that last part at all.) Seems simple but as i have mentioned above, it just isn't happening for me. SO then, how do i get this thing working again, without losing any data or having to buy enough HDDs to dump all my data into and reinstalling my NAS from scratch? Again, im an a total Linux NOOB! So please explain everything in detail! Thank you!

Hi, i am currently planning a water cooled build in the Carbide Series® Air 540 case. And i'd like to know, if there are flaws in my build plan and also i'd like to hear if you have some suggestions on how to improve the loop in general. Computer that i will be water cooling, is my current fully air cooled computer and the only changes i am making to it are: New PSU for future 3-Way SLI or maybe even 4-Way SLI(Probably not and certainly not without a new mobo and a CPU). New Case because water cooling in my current case is near impossible without some serious modding, which i don't have the skill nor tools to do. Maybe in the future i will add the third Asus 780 DCU II OC into it, but probably i'll just wait a generation or 2 for new nVidia GPUs and then upgrade to 3-Way SLI using what ever those gfx cards are. I may switch the fans to Corsair SP120s depending on the feedback and how my current Silverstone Air Penetrators look in the build. New Fan Controller (the XT version) because my current fan controller just isn't doing a good enough job and it also won't fit since i do have a Blu-Ray drive that i intent to use in this build as well. And ofc water cool CPU and the GPU(s). I don't think i am going to bother with water cooling the mobo because, the mobo block costs a little too much in my opinion and it doesn't really matter much anyway. Current build specs: i7 2600K @4.5GHz 16GB of G.Skill Ripjaws X @2133Mhz 2-Way SLI Asus 780 DCUII OC @1081/7008Mhz Asus ROG Maximus IV Extreme B3 Samsung 840 x2 in RAID0 Noctua NH-D14 CPU Cooler with 2 Corsair SP120 fans both in pull config Corsair AX750 PSU Antec 1200 Case with SilverStone Air Penetrator blue LED fans Asus Xonar Xense Sound Card Water cooling parts list: GPU blocks: EK-FC780 GTX Ti DCII - Nickel (Original CSQ) I just love how these bad boys look. GPU backplates: EK-FC780 GTX Ti DCII Backplate - Black I'd love to use the default Asus DCU II backplates, but according to EK's site they don't fit correctly with the water blocks. GPU block bridge parts: EK-FC Bridge SINGLE CSQ - Plexi Is this the correct piece to use in between the GPU blocks and the triple bridge? EDIT: Nope, the correct piece(EK-FC Link) comes included with the waterblock it self. EK-FC Bridge TRIPLE Parallel CSQ Plexi Parallel FTW! EK-FC Link BLANK Parallel CSQ To seal that middle slot in the triple bridge. CPU block: EK-Supremacy - Nickel Still not sure, if i should go with EK-Supremacy Clean CSQ - Nickel instead.. Should i? Pump: EK-D5 PWM Motor (12V DC PWM Pump Motor) Isn't this the pump Linus always speaks so highly of off? It's amazeballs in any case IMHO. Reservoir: Option A: EK-D5 X-RES 140 CSQ - Acetal It's going in the back of the case on top of the 2.5" drive cages and i'll mount it horizontally to the roof. And swap the res top to EK-RES X3 - Multiport TOP. Option B: EK-D5 X-RES 100 CSQ - Acetal I'll mount it on top of the 2.5" drive cages vertically to the back wall and prey there is enough clearance for EK-RES X3 - Multiport TOP and fittings. Option C: EK-Multioption RES X2 - 100 Basic I'll mount the res on top of the 2.5" drive cages vertically to the mesh wall and mount the pump with EK-D5 X-TOP CSQ - Acetal on the front panel below the 5.25" bays. Option D: EK-Multioption RES X2 - 100 Basic I''l mount the pump with the EK-D5 X-TOP CSQ - Acetal on top of the 2.5" drive cages on the mesh wall and the res next to it vertically with EK-UNI Holder 50/70s. Which option do you think is the best? My favourite option is B, but im not sure if it's doable due to possible clearance problems. Pump mounting hardware: Mounting mechanism D5 X-TOP EK-UNI Holder D5 V2 (If it's not included with the res i choose.) Radiators: EK-CoolStream PE 360 (Triple) This will go to the front of the case(ports facing down) and depending on how well the top rad fits, i'll put the fans inside or outside of the case in push config or in pull, if that means that i don't have to put them outside and thus run them without the included dust filter. EK-CoolStream RAD XTX (240) This will go on top of the case(ports facing the back of the case) and the fans will be exhausting hot air out in pull config. I wish there would be enough room to fit the XTX version of the 360 rad to the front, because that radiator is just so RAD (get it ?) </badpuns> Fittings & Tubing: EK-CSQ Fitting 10/16mm G1/4 -Black Nickel Would have loved to go with Bitspower Black Sparkle fittings, but i just could not figure out how to use their shop. So i just gave up and went with something equally awesome looking. Also the main reason i don't use hard plexi tubing is that, i wanted to use crystal link but that got foiled by the lack of "Buy" button in the Bitspower shop. Also i'd like to go easy on fittings since this is the first water cooled build i am building after all. PrimoChill PrimoFlex™ Advanced LRT™ 15,9 / 9,5mm - Crystal Clear I guess this is my only option, since i want tubing without any markings and which is very clear and high quality. Coolant: EK-Ekoolant UV BLUE I won't be using any UV lighting(I will use 2x neon blue cold cathodes as lighting for the case.) but this should look really blue without it right? EDIT: Original post If some mod happens to see this post, please delete the original post.

Hi, i am currently planning a water cooled build in the Carbide Series® Air 540 case. And i'd like to know, if there are some flaws in my build plan and also i'd like to hear if you have some suggestions on how to improve the loop in general. Computer that i will be water cooling, is my current fully air cooled computer and the only changes i am making to it are: New PSU for future 3-Way SLI or maybe even 4-Way SLI(Probably not and certainly not without a new mobo and a CPU). New Case because water cooling in my current case is near impossible without some serious modding, which i don't have the skill nor tools to do. Maybe in the future i will add the third Asus 780 DCU II OC into it, but probably i'll just wait a generation or 2 for new nVidia GPUs and then upgrade to 3-Way SLI using what ever those gfx cards are. I may switch the fans to Corsair SP120s depending on the feedback and how my current Silverstone Air Penetrators look in the build. New Fan Controller (the XT version) because my current fan controller just isn't doing a good enough job and it also won't fit since i do have a Blu-Ray drive that i intent to use in this build as well. And ofc water cool CPU and the GPU(s). I don't think i am going to bother with water cooling the mobo because, the mobo block costs a little too much in my opinion and it doesn't really matter much anyway. Current build specs: i7 2600K @4.5GHz 16GB of G.Skill Ripjaws X @2133Mhz 2-Way SLI Asus 780 DCUII OC @1081/7008Mhz Asus ROG Maximus IV Extreme B3 Samsung 840 x2 in RAID0 Noctua NH-D14 CPU Cooler with 2 Corsair SP120 fans both in pull config Corsair AX750 PSU Antec 1200 Case with SilverStone Air Penetrator blue LED fans Asus Xonar Xense Sound Card Water cooling parts list: GPU blocks: EK-FC780 GTX Ti DCII - Nickel (Original CSQ) I just love how these bad boys look. GPU backplates: EK-FC780 GTX Ti DCII Backplate - Black I'd love to use the default Asus DCU II backplates, but according to EK's site they don't fit correctly with the water blocks. GPU block bridge parts: EK-FC Bridge SINGLE CSQ - Plexi Is this the correct piece to use in between the GPU blocks and the triple bridge? EK-FC Bridge TRIPLE Parallel CSQ Plexi Parallel FTW! EK-FC Link BLANK Parallel CSQ To seal that middle slot in the triple bridge. CPU block: EK-Supremacy - Nickel Still not sure, if i should go with EK-Supremacy Clean CSQ - Nickel instead.. Should i? Pump: EK-D5 PWM Motor (12V DC PWM Pump Motor) Isn't this the pump Linus always speaks so highly of off? It's amazeballs in any case IMHO. Reservoir: Option A: EK-D5 X-RES 140 CSQ - Acetal It's going in the back of the case on top of the 2.5" drive cages and i'll mount it horizontally to the roof. And swap the res top to EK-RES X3 - Multiport TOP. Option B: EK-D5 X-RES 100 CSQ - Acetal I'll mount it on top of the 2.5" drive cages vertically to the back wall and prey there is enough clearance for EK-RES X3 - Multiport TOP. Option C: EK-Multioption RES X2 - 100 Basic I'll mount the res on top of the 2.5" drive cages vertically to the back wall and mount the pump with EK-D5 X-TOP CSQ - Acetal on the front panel below the 5.25" bays. Option D: EK-Multioption RES X2 - 100 Basic I''l mount the pump with the EK-D5 X-TOP CSQ - Acetal on top of the 2.5" drive cages on the mesh wall and the res next to it vertically with EK-UNI Holder 50/70s. Which option do you think is the best? My favourite option is B, but im not sure if it's doable due to possible clearance problems. Pump mounting hardware: Mounting mechanism D5 X-TOP EK-UNI Holder D5 V2 (If it's not included with the res i choose.) Radiators: EK-CoolStream PE 360 (Triple) This will go to the front of the case(ports facing down) and depending on how well the top rad fits, i'll put the fans inside or outside of the case in push config or in pull, if that means that i don't have to put them outside and thus run them without the included dust filter. EK-CoolStream RAD XTX (240) This will go on top of the case(ports facing the back of the case) and the fans will be exhausting hot air out in pull config. I wish there would be enough room to fit the XTX version of the 360 rad to the front, because that radiator is just so RAD (get it ?) </badpuns> Fittings & Tubing: EK-CSQ Fitting 10/16mm G1/4 -Black Nickel Would have loved to go with Bitspower Black Sparkle fittings, but i just could not figure out how to use their shop. So i just gave up and went with something equally awesome looking. Also the main reason i don't use hard plexi tubing is that, i wanted to use crystal link but that got foiled by the lack of "Buy" button in the Bitspower shop. Also i'd like to go easy on fittings since this is the first water cooled build i am building after all. PrimoChill PrimoFlex™ Advanced LRT™ 15,9 / 9,5mm - Crystal Clear I guess this is my only option, since i want tubing without any markings and which is very clear and high quality. Coolant: EK-Ekoolant UV BLUE I won't be using any UV lighting(I will use 2x neon blue cold cathodes as lighting for the case.) but this should look really blue without it right?

I have bought a new gfx card from every generation since 6970 days but other than that i've used pretty much the same (at the time of building it) overkill system.

Keyboard and mouse FTW! But srly tho, X-box 360 controller because of it's native windows support and the analogs and triggers feel much better than on PS controllers.

I can't remember if he recommended any of these but he has made videos of them all and i really like them: i7 2600K Noctua NH-D14 Asus Maximus IV Extreme (rew:B3) Asus 780 DCUII (in 2-way SLI) Samsung 840 (2x in RAID 0) Not sure ih he has made videos of Corsai AX750 or G.Skill Ripjaws but i got those as well.

Well i have googled many many times and this is one of the best benchmarks i've seen: http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/prolimatech_super_mega_cpu_cooler_review.html Note that it isn't winning in every scenario and most of the time the differences between NH-D14 and Super Mega are very small. Im comparing it to D14 because it's very similar to Phanteks PH-TC14PE and way easier to find comparisons with. Also according to the review above Super Mega seems to work better with higher RPM fans and im looking for as quiet as possible solution, that can be achieved with active cooling. Regarding your idea of Antec 1200: 1. That's not Antec 1200, this is: http://store.antec.com/Product/enclosure-gear_for_gamers/twelve-hundred/0-761345-15120-7.aspx 2. The side panel is open, making that picture absolutely useless. I need to know if it fits with the side panel on or not and if i need to remove the plexiglass window with the fan mount in order to get the cooler to fit. 3. These are the kind of pictures im after(Im lucky, that i even found this when searching for something else. Turns out that only few ppl have build something simular to their Antec 1200s.): http://www.pugheaven.co.uk/fan1.jpg http://www.pugheaven.co.uk/fan2.jpg