Zyphron

Ill try and Link it. but my links were getting removed by LTT or the tubes Auto-mod the HDMI wall port is just a Extender. its a 2.4 female on both ends. that's it. The line coming into it is HDMI over fiber. someone else linked the hardware he used but its Vastly over priced and too expensive. Duplication is simply running 2 HDMI's out on the same system or you tap the HDMI port on the GPU, and pass 2.1 through and use a splitter to HDMI 2.0 4k 60hz (He mentions the Theater room is 60hz so I believe he is doing it that way. someone linked the equip he used. but for most people its FAR overpriced and Unobtanium. I linked what I use down below you can do 50 meters of USB and HDMI 2.1 for under $250 Display port over Fiber or HDMI over fiber they both work in the same way. and there are cables for each. there is a MUCH less expensive way to do it. its why thunderbolt never worked out the dock creates a "interface" that times out or De-syncs not to mention it has to push video through it as well. Okay guys. you all were looking for something Like this Here are the links of TESTED equip I used to Push HDMI 2.1 @4k120hz 50 meters from my Server rack mounted PC's into my Game room. LAG FREE HDMI OVER FIBER 150 ft/ 50 meter $167 for 50 meters which should do most homes there is a output side and a Display side. make sure you get the right port to the right plug. USB 2.0 over Ethernet Cat 5e about $50 and some cat 5e so if you have cat 5e run and DONT have a fiber run this is about as good as it gets. I use it daily its Lag free. its USB 2.0 though so if you need data transfer speeds. this ain't it. a note, these are converters and CANT be used on a normal network. Its Point A to point B ONLY. YOU WILL DESTORY THE CONVERTER IF YOU PLUG IT INTO A ROUTER the adapter has 1 amp of power runs my GMMK, G502 Blue Mic and Moto M2 interface. Picture of the converters in my server rack in my garage. picture of the adapter at the Game room. and picture of the game room.

OP, do this its the easiest way and will work the same.. then set temp ranges and color. then Unplug, and your done. if you need to, you can Cut and Splice another cable to get a straight plug. for constant link

Option one to the left. Reasons: the Intake on the front will be Pulling in slightly colder air, this will allow the Air to pick up more heat as it passes the thicker Rad, this Rad SHOULD have pressure Opti fans since its going to be Pulling through a thicker surface IMO while Rad thickness is Important. a 60MM 8FPI rad will have the same surface area as a 30MM 16FPI. but will allow more flow for a non pressure opti fan to perform better which u should not be using anyways. so assuming all things equal (rad FPI's are the same) I would slow the top Rad fans down ever so slightly. and this will make sure you have Positive pressure if you have a higher FPI on that 30MM rad then leave the fan speed alone. you have should positive pressure already Since you have 2 Fans that don't have rads on them a 1-1 is just fine. Make sure they are the same brand and Run the same RPM To ensure you maintain positive pressure

the Hardline Econ is indeed the way to go. I chose them since the Lock ring compresses a much larger O-ring. So you get a better seal overall. I tried the primo and the EK fittings... both Pull out really easy and have "thin" weakly feeling O-rings. in fact I used the Free EK fitting on my pump since it had Ridges on the outside to grip it with fingers and I could not get the monsoon wrench in there to tighten it up. The fitting was not tight at all even after fully tighting it and the copper pipe popped out and dumped my coolant everywhere...... it was a fucking mess. Best advice here and seems to go well. Moonsoon pipe get monsoon fittings. EK pipe get EK fittings. Primo.. ect if you go copper look for large O-rings for a good seal. EDIT: on a side note. the Seal is so good with the Monsoon that I cant pull the pipe off a fully tightend fitting. its that tough. these work really good on copper since it can handle much more pressure then the Acrylic.

hardline Copper and fittings: $23 EK 980 Waterblock $114 EK Impact VII motherboard waterblock $124 D5 Pump $72 Black Ice GTX Rad 240x120 $35 XSPC Rad 140x140 $24 XSPC Res Photon $35 Fittings 12x Monsoon $26 a pack so *2 total cost was around $479 USD not Including fans or torch tools for the copper. Since I own those things already. You could cut costs going Soft tube and using 1.99 barb fittings. and going for a whole Mobo Block like I did would save your 40-50 and going with a smaller Pump for a 4 Item system (rad,block block, rad) since the D5 is a tad overkill for my build.

this is the whole point of modding, you do it for yourself, to make something your own. Some people do it to show off and that's fine too. some people do it purely for performance. I don't think anyone modded their Hardware because they were doing for someone else. You never hear: "I modded my case for Steve in Accounting, because he wanted me to" as for your Pictures. dont worry about it. not all of us have $5k Digi 22MP DSLR's to take flawless photos with. and the sad part is those are the Logs that get all the Attention. even if its a shit build. to me its nice seeing people who are not "Pros"

Sadly, not even close. Ive only done the 2 runs of pipe from the CPU to the GPU you see here. I've still got to run pipe for the 2 radiators, the pump and rez tank. (which will need to be rethought since the photon 170 is too big) That's not including case mods: a mirror vinyl design along the left side of the case, Led under glow lighting that will Breathe on off, and a top Window Mod to make it larger. Internal mods include: a painted 980 back plate and a clear shot of etched Plexi with PC Specs in the Deus Ex Font (similar to how the Arguments parts have serial numbers) and Internal RGB lighting so I can adjust it how i like. ill be working on it more this weekend. should be able to knock out most of the Lengths of Pipe.

so I never managed to get back here till this morning, but don't worry. I have pics! Cpu/GPU/VRM block with hardline fittings. : Cross flow Radiator I dont have any GPU pics out of the case. I put it on and tossed it in. Mounted CPU block: After I installed the CPU Rad and GPU I took the polished section of pipe and did a quick mock up to see how it will look the bottom section is using the polished 1/2 Copper pipe. Thanks for looking!

PARTS PARTS PARTS!!!!! Ill be doing the install later tonight.. Stay Tuned! Shown. 2 packs of Monsoon Hardline Dark chrome fittings. (12x) Hardline Bending Kit with Gloves EK Impact VII CPU/Chipset/VRM block. EK-GTX 980 Reference Block Hardware labs Nemesis GTS-240 Cross flow Not Shown Front XSPC 140MM radiator I just Picked it up.

Hello Hello? this thing on? moving forward ive Made the choice to go with copper. tough but let me show you my reasoning. Choices choices This is what sold me on the Hard line copper... Pre soldier filled joints. YES this will make a VERY clean install Look how tight of a Angle you can get on these using a combo of Pre soldiered joints Lots of Elbow grease and some polish... this was the first test to see how Shiny I could get this stuff pretty much a Mirror finish. The 170 Photon and pump needs to be rethought out. it does not fit... pretty darn close though. parts came in, Ill post pictures but I don't have a lot of time until this weekend.

What? no no no for less dust you want more filtered intakes. this allows all the air going into the case to have to pass the filter first and you create High pressure inside the case allowing more air flow there is Zero reason to have that Top system be an intake. he has 3 front intakes already OP 3 static pressure fans up front are the best bet. and run them Slightly higher in rpm then the rest. this will keep the air filtered by keeping positive pressure inside the case. and lower the dust build up also keeping the system cooler. for your Radiator: push vs pull since the air is filtered it wont matter ....do what fits/ looks best. make sure they are exhausting out of the case.

my mistake, I did not realize this was a zombie thread from 2 months ago.... how did the System handle the Titan X? seems like it would be on the cusp of max for the PSU and Cooling of a 240 Rad....

the D5 Impeller floats on a hardened ceramic bearing. its Lubricated by water and the top plate that balances the impeller on the bearing is made of a Hardened plastic.(not sure what Kind) the Impeller is the wear point and its replaceable. a D5 has a MTBF in the range of 100,000 hours at max speed. there is one moving part, its replaceable. i have one that's from 2003... runs 8 hours a day. hope that helps. things to keep in mind. dont use it in salt water, don't run it dry if you can avoid it. and Dont move the computer/pump while its running.

there While i'm Glad you made this work Its an Extremely tight fit and really relying on the 980 and lower power 4690 here to survive you also fail to mention that those fans are the 2000 rpm PPC screamers from Noctua... they are FUCKING LOUD. and to cool that set up fully loaded. id bet they are running 1200-1400 to move the required airflow. OP consider this: 980 vs titan x........ the titan X pumps out about an EXTRA 100 watts of heat compared to the 980 and USES an EXTRA 100W of power. this alone means your approach might not be viable this is not even taking into consideration that a 600 watt SfX "might" not handle the titan. on thing Id personally change is the EK cool stream Rad and going for a 35MM rad that does not have a lot of framing and/or has a Higher FPI then 11. You have the Static pressure to push through a denser rad and to take advantage of that PARTICULARLY if you are going with those 2k Noctua PPC's

100% TDP is 165W on the card. you would be Boosting it to 200%+ to get that kinda power (actual usage at 100% load is closer to 185W) while I wont Doubt that you may have an unlocked voltage modifier the last I recall from OC.net was that the 1.25 was a hard limit on all cards save for some gigabytes that did 1.31 and if the wattage output you are saying is correct you are pushing quite a a Bit of power for the Rad you have: here is why.... the thing is with that XSPC rad is its core thickness, its really only about 15-17MM thick. the rest is Framing. (I think, not 100% on that model) while this is true with other brands as well. The 45MM option might have been better since you don't get any extra framing and instead get a rad that's internally 2x as thick. while only being 15MM larger you also have Negative Air pressure here since you have 3 Exhaust and 2 intake. while it might not make seam to make sense Move that Exhaust on the rear to an Intake. your poor rad fans are Gasping for airflow. to test it, and see if its lack of surface area, Open the case up. Lower fan speed. does the loop Raise in temp? yes? now ramp the Fans. does the system drop lower then before? if so you need more rad space a thicker or Larger rad is a good option if not then you are looking at an issue with low flow, or a Pump that's not responding to its speed inputs. possibily an obstruction in the Flow path. Finally. ill always advise its better to get high pressure High RPM airflow fans over slower fans. you can control the faster ones down to silent on idle and they will ramp up slightly when you fully load the system. but you ALWAYS have more juice in the tank should you need it, or if you end up at a LAN in the Australian Outback mid summer inside someones garage. you know overheating is no Problem. TLDR first swap the Exhaust on the rear to an intake. see if that helps, if not shoot for 45MM thick rad to replace it