Oskar94a

I would love to do a discreet T rod with a saab engine, using the 3 cyl 2 stroke would be so much fun.

I kind of just bought another saab. I overheard a guy talking about selling his daughters saab and I told him that I'm a saab enthusiast and just like that in the afternoon I had bought it. A 2006 9-5 vector, 2.3t 185hp, i payed equivalent of 500 usd for it. The exterior has seen better days but the interior is like new and it runs and drives great.

I testfitted the fenders and body, there's lots of bodywork and alignments to be done. I'm inexperienced with metalworking so I have a lot to learn.

Hello. I have made lots of progress on my 1927 model T Here's the first time start. 20220529_180800_1_1_1.mp4 I'm so happy.

Very different from car to car, the ones i have driven is roughly 0.8 to 1.2 l/10km

Positive and ground wire

It now stands on its own! it's really fascinating to me that just in July 2021 I began from this. Doing a few hours almost every weekend. Now it's just to get the wiring and steering wheel done and I can try to start and eventually go for a test drive of the chassis.

Long time no post. Here's an update on my 1927 model T restoration. The engine came nicely together and now sits in the frame, looking so good. Most recently I installed kevlar linings on the transmission bands and installed them on the transmission drums. Drums from bottom to top, brake drum (big one), low speed drum in the middle and reverse drum at top.

Yeah I wonder how it's going to turn out. With the rising electricity pricing in the south because electricity shortage, they closed a nuclear reactor and now imports electricity from Germany/Poland, I'm quite sure the Swedish government is going to implement some taxes on the electric cars in the near future.

What are your local gas prices? This is getting ridiculous. Regular gas 17.84 sek per litre (7.85 usd per gallon) Premium gas 18.40 sek per litre (8.1 usd per gallon) Diesel 19.37 sek per litre. (8.5 usd per gallon) It's increasing daily.

Yeah, it's quite different. Here's a video I did this summer, the starting procedure on a 1911 model T. Edit: That clicking/clacking sound is the sound of the trembling coils, there is 4 of them, one to each cylinder. They get charge from magnetos on the flywheel that's passing over copper spools when its running, making current go to the "distributor" and then to the trembling coil and from there it goes to the sparkplug, it runs without a battery.

I have aligned the rearend to the frame, I have to change the bushings that connects the rear axle to the leafspring but I'm on a 3 weeks business trip so all I can do is look at my pictures, everyday is itching my fingers lol. Wheels are not connected, I'm waiting for Model A to model T adapter plates. It's not a good picture but this is the flywheel, clutch/transmission. This needs a good checkup before I can assemble it to the engine and then put it in the frame to connect the driveshaft. Then I get to give it a go to start .

Another update on my model T project. I have rebuilt the differential/rear axle, replaced everything that was bad. it sure looks good. I have also shimmed the driveshaft to correct position and reassembled the rear axle. I will soon be able to mount it to the frame, I have to change some bushings where the rear spring mounts to the axle and mount rear radius rods. This picture shows a little bit about model T rear end and frame.

Now when you mentioned it, it says 060 on the cylinder heads since it has gotten a total renovation at one of best model T engine guys in Sweden. I'm very excited to drive it and compare the power (lol), to other model T.

The high compression head is installed on my model T engine, looking good. This should give me 25 hp instead of the feeble original 20 hp.

It's M102, 4 cyl 2.0 105 hp non cat, carburetor. Not a lot of power but the engine runs so smooth, there is no wierd sunds or strange vibrations. Im going to look into how i can preserv the moss, the body is over all good from rust, it has been driven by an old lady up north where they don't put salt on the roads. I'll "kill" the little rust there is with vinegar to begin with and take it from there.

I picked up this beauty today. 1988 Mercedes 190, 105 hp, almost 350000 km, manual. Will be fun to drive in the winter, i hope. I'll keep the mossy exterior. Eco-friendly, lol.

Gas mileage are quite good at 1 liter per 10 km. I see what you mean, it would be interesting to see a well thought out design. You'll be surprised, there are tons of parts, new and old with some parts being more rare than others.

Around 6:1 lol. Original is 4.5:1

An update on my 1927 model T build/restoration project. The engine is beginning to actually look like an engine now. I have sourced a high compression head , which was an accessory of that era. It will give me about 5 more HP, it may not sound like a lot but it's 20HP original, making a 25% increase lol. I have also disassembled the rear axle/differential, it's reusable except some roller bearings and sleeves. Also babbitt bearing plates are replaced by new in steel. I've also restored a set of early model A wire wheels, (the T wire wheels are rare) and sourced adapter plates. I might have a rolling chassis at the end of this year.

Look at that, I've completed the front end of the chassis and mounted the rear spring. Rear spring and the shackles for mounting the diff/rear axle.

I just love the lines of the classic saab 900 They are very comfortable to drive and not too slow this one is a '92, 2.1l i4 140hp na.

I bought a proper 400v 3 phase air compressor so that I may sandblast my model t parts or any other things properly. This is going to be a 1927 model T runabout in maroon red.

My A8 passed the inspection, took it for a 200km warm up drive after sitting all winter. It's fun and comfortable to drive.

I finally took the time to change the broken flex joint on the A8 exhaust, it's not pretty but thats what I get for cut first get parts later, lol Local stores were out of the right parts, had to get it done this weekend. And now there is another problem, headlight range controller defective, after a scan and some research, it likely to be play in the connector to the front right leveling sensor but thats for another day.