Happypap55

Hello, I'm just about to upgrade to W10 and do a full system restore along with it so I have a fresh install. However, I want to keep the files on my HDD; does anybody who has upgraded and done a full restore know whether or not it lets you choose which drive to wipe when you do it or does it automatically wipe everything? I have my OS and some games on my SSD I want to wipe, so I could just unplug my HDD and do the upgrade but it would be appreciated if you guys knew whether or not it gave you the option to only wipe a certai drive with your OS on it.

Yeah that didn't do anything to help. Edit: I just looked at some pictures online, they all have the same thing. It just confused me because it's the same material of the screen (the flat matte finish), but it's where the border is.

Alright I'll try reinstalling. Going to uninstall them in safe mode and reinstall them fresh so I'll be back in a bit.

Hello, I recently bought an Acer XG270HU 1440p 144Hz Freesync monitor which has been working great so far, but there are some thin black bars on the top and side borders (it contacts right to the bottom though). When I try to change the selected monitor in AMD CCC, nothing happens; as in I go to My Digital Flat-Panels > Scaling Options and there's a box where you can select which monitor but when I click it, nothing happens and it's on my Asus 1080p monitor by default. I can select it in all the other categories: colour, properties, HDTV support, etc. There is no option to change it with the physical buttons on the monitor. Any help would be appreciated.

Not sure about #1, but for #2 you're just going to have to wait for new drivers. That's just the way she goes sometimes. Sometimes she goes, sometimes she don't go.

For just gaming, the 4690K is king.

Been a while since I've read an article I cared less about.

Considering it's a MicroATX build, I wouldn't OC the CPU very much more than it already achieves in turbo. I managed to put in a nice mobo, better CPU, and better GPU in a nice case w/ a more than sufficent PSU for under your budget. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($226.99 @ SuperBiiz) Motherboard: Asus Z97M-PLUS Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($123.99 @ NCIX US) Memory: A-Data XPG V1.0 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($24.99 @ Newegg) Memory: A-Data XPG V1.0 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($24.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($99.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($52.49 @ OutletPC) Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 4GB WINDFORCE 3X Video Card ($295.00 @ Newegg) Case: BitFenix Prodigy M Atomic Orange MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($89.99 @ Micro Center) Power Supply: Corsair CX 600W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($43.00 @ Newegg) Total: $981.43 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-04-21 01:47 EDT-0400

If you're serious about editing, more cores help but if you want it mostly for gaming then you should probably go for Intel. This is what I put together based on what you want and your price point: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: AMD FX-6300 3.5GHz 6-Core Processor ($97.46 @ Amazon) Motherboard: ASRock 980DE3/U3S3 ATX AM3+ Motherboard ($53.98 @ Newegg) Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($49.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($52.49 @ OutletPC) Video Card: XFX Radeon R9 280X 3GB Double Dissipation Video Card ($189.99 @ Newegg) Case: Azza SIRIUS ATX Mid Tower Case ($40.98 @ Newegg) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($64.99 @ NCIX US) Total: $549.88 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-04-21 01:14 EDT-0400

If your card is working then obviously not.

At work we have a really shitty bluetooth keyboard Logitech K330. Probably the worst keyboard I've ever used from being cheap overall, small keys, and being used for a long time. The dongle it comes with pairs with both the mouse and the keyboard. I found a keyboard not being used that's the same model but when I turn it on and scan for bluetooth devices, nothing shows up except for printers and PC's. Not the original keyboard, the original mouse, or the new keyboard but the original keyboard and mouse are working. Anybody have any ideas on how to connect a bluetooth keyboard to a dongle belonging to another one?

Ehh the part of Canada I live in is a rainforest so the humidity is stupid high and the sun shines in my room all day making it often 35C with the window open.

Those are some scary temps. My 290 peaked at about 62C in SoM with everything set to ultra w/ the HD texture pack and ran it all at 60fps. Seems like something is wrong with the cooling of your card..

Basically what @spookyneo said. I've played both extensively, Elite: Dangerous is a full fledged game with constant updates that you can pour hundreds of hours into while SC in it's current state is just a tech demo IMO. SC gets updates too but they aren't as often and they're still focused on the basic mechanics of the game whereas ED is pretty finished and gets content updates. SC is nice to look at and fly around but nothing to really do. I think when it's all said and done and both games are released, Elite: Dangerous will be more for people looking for a simulator experience whereas SC will be more for people looking for an arcade experience. I'll also say I think the combat is Elite is more tactical than SC currently. SC is like War Thunder Arcade, Elite is like War Thunder Realistic. Some people prefer one over the other, but I don't think you can say 1 game's combat is objectively better.

Lots of people enjoy the Thrustmaster T-Flight. Apparently really good for the price ($50); but the game is very playable on just keyboard and mouse. Switch out the ship yaw to mouse control instead of A and D keys and you're good to go.