LZ Holy Narwhal

Hey everyone, I have an older Focusrite Scarlett Solo that I purchased way back in 2017/2018 - alongside some Sennheiser HD 650s that I purchased around the same time. They have served me well through that entire time period - however, recently I have noticed that there are times when I am playing games that the sound cuts out on specific sides of the headphones when I turn a certain way or possibly if a cord is turned. Super hard for me to isolate what the issue is and figure out whether it may be an issue with headphone drivers, the Scarlett, the cord, etc. and I would love some people here to help me figure this out: What can I do to help isolate what is wrong and help eliminate some of the issues causing this? Let me know if I need to provide more context for what the issue is - TL;DR, sound tends to cut out when playing games or sound when I turn a certain way - i.e. the left earcup stops working, and I cannot hear anything that would normally be coming out of the left earcup. (This happens on both sides, both independently and together).

I am looking at purchasing the Electro-Voice RE20 microphone as an upgrade to my current set up which picks up quite a bit of background noise. I am looking at the following options as I am currently using a Rode NT1-A with the Scarlett Solo Audio Interface (2nd Gen) on a recently purchased Elgato Wave Arm Mic which works perfectly. What I am planning on getting currently based on input from B&H: Electro-Voice RE20 Microphone Antelope Zen Go Synergy Audio Interface Electro-Voice 309A Shock Mount An alternative option for the Antelope Zen Go Synergy Audio Interface would be the Universal Audio Volt Audio Interface - I would love some input on this as this is certainly the microphone I am getting, but want input on the audio interface. The other audio interface I have used prior was the Schiit Fulla which did great back then for what it was on my headphones. I am also using Sennheiser HD 650s. Any input would be greatly appreciated on advice/suggestions. I am using this for gaming as well as some light streaming on the side/video recording.

Hi everyone, I am buying a new boom arm so that my mic can more directly be in front of my mouth when I am gaming and still unobtrusive to my monitor - however, I am using the Rode NT1A and wanted to see how other people have helped the acoustics in the room. I am currently using my bedroom for my gaming setup and am wanting to see how to best set this up for audio clarity. Any thoughts? I have seen the advice for acoustic panels and bass traps but wanted to see if anyone had solid implementation of this already.

Hey everyone, I'm wanting to get myself a new mechanical keyboard for work and wanted to see what could be a good fit. I have another keyboard here but it has MX speeds/reds (forgot which) and I work in an open space and it can be loud. Let me put some of my criteria here for the mechanical keyboards to be recommended, in order of importance. MUST BE FULL SIZED (NUM PAD) Tactile/quiet keys Wireless (preferred, but not a non-starter) RGB lighting if possible I also wanted to get myself a new mousepad, as mine was an old world map one and am planning on bringing that to my work, and was looking into Artisan mouse pads as well and wanted to get some of y'all's recommendations. Here's some criteria for that as well: Full-size I use a Razer Basilisk wireless and have plenty of space on my desk Not sure exactly how quickly I prefer using my mouse in all honestly, never experimented. For reference, this is my mousepad I bought back in 2016 (currently using). Still has worked well for me overall, and want something cool on my desk but still useful for my gaming and see if that will help or if it's just my lack of skill.

I just graduated college and am about to start working full-time (fingers crossed), and it's a lot of Excel usage and a lot of searches. Currently I'm using my Macbook, which is fine - however, I'm much more used to the Microsoft Office usage on Windows, since I use my gaming PC for that and now I just need a good one for my portable workflow and for the office. I've heard a lot of great things regarding AMD laptops and so that's what I'd like to do - get the best value for my money, naturally as much as possible - but I do have some criteria that may affect what is recommended, and is affecting my thoughts. Already have a gaming PC, and gaming is not important to me on-the-go Currently own a 2016 Macbook Pro - used to run Windows but it didn't run well for me and I also don't have that much storage space in that Macbook, which is the main issue I do currently use my iPad Pro 2018 in conjunction with my Macbook, but I'm transitioning into using it for my notes at work and when I do have to use it as a second display, it's a bit too small for my liking. I also am connecting an external keyboard of my own, so laptop keyboard quality isn't AS important, but doesn't mean I want to be typing on Spongebob. I also would be connecting it to two other monitors, so I suppose take that into account I've seen the Lenovo Thinkpad X1 Carbon Gen 8, and the Surface Laptop AMD version - but wanted to hear some other options as well. Thanks!

Figured I'd bump this since the issue has not been fixed - does it on any window and happens on different keyboards - at a loss now what to do.

It only does it in games - I never notice it at any other point, which I imagine I would since it would change what program is showing. So yes, it's only in games.

I am using my other keyboard right now - a Corsair ...K70? And it just did it again. So it clearly isn't a hardware issue? Or at least very minimal that that is the issue. What now?

Hi there, So this has been happening for about a month now - my games will randomly Alt-Tab out sometimes and it can be at crucial moments in a game so that's really unideal. I've closed a bunch of start-up programs (actually all of them besides Razer Synapse) and I updated my drivers as well. It still does it - and I'm honestly not sure where to go from here. My other thought is that it could be the keyboard with some keys sticking, so I was thinking of maybe cleaning the keys and if that doesn't work, switching the keyboard to see if the issue comes up again - however, I wanted to run it by and see if there were any other suggestions to be had. Specs: CPU: i7-8700K Cooler: Corsair H..115i? Ram: 32GB 3200HZ G.Skill Trident-Z RGB GPU: EVGA 1080TI PSU: EVGA G3 650W Storage: 500GB Samsung 870 EVO, 2TB Samsung 870 EVO, 2TB WD Black Hard Drive Windows 64-Bit If any other info is needed, I'll be happy to provide it. Also using the Razer Huntsman Elite and Razer Basilisk wireless for my peripherals. Thanks!

I was unplugging the mic itself to get it to work. I checked and moved any wires that could've interfered with the XLR cable (it wasn't really any, maybe just the headphone cable) but I had to wrap the wire a bit because it was too long and my PC itself is not very fire from the interface. Definitely could be the Internet - I tried in Audacity, and while it recorded itself as a mono recording so I could only hear out of my left ear (Solo apparently is a mono recorder) it lagged at first, but I unplugged the microphone and plugged it back in and it worked fine for the most part. Attached some testing audio so y'all could listen if it helps. This wasn't an issue before, but for some reason our wifi at the college apartments got much worse, so that could be it? I'm still hooked up with a Powerline adapter so I'm not sure if that affects anything. Thank you both for your help so far - any other recommendations out of this? Little side note as well - I was looking at getting the Schiit DAC/amp stack Magni and Modi 3 I believe? Had looked at the 2 versions for a while but now I have some money. Any recommendations for specific combos as well, or replacements for the Solo if deemed necessary? Testing Audio.mp3

So this wasn't a problem before I moved everything, but I tried a bunch of stuff to remedy the issues. I have a Rode NT1A, powered through the stock XLR cable into a Focusrite solo. Had it for a decent amount of time, but I didn't use either from about March to now, since my desk at my home didn't work as well as the one in my college apartment. I was told through some of the discord chats I'm in that it can be kind of laggy and can sound robotic at times. I don't know if that's a microphone issue or an Internet issue, as when I unplug the mic and then plug back in, it seems to fix itself to a certain extent. IT's not to a point where everyone hates talking to me, but still is noticeable. I feel like this shouldn't be happening on this mic, but I wanted to see if there was something I could do to fix it. Can't find anything. Would I need to get a new audio overlay? (Also am plugging in my Sennheiser HD 650s through there, so I dunno if that should affect anything.

Oh, I meant I left voltage alone for after, but even when I maxed it out afterwards, it still crashed.

I saw results of how it can crash certain games, and when it's in default settings it's fine so..I just tried with default settings and it worked just fine. It still moves the damn windows to my second monitor which is annoying as hell, you wouldn't happen to know how to fix that too, would you? @Constantin I did have it all maxed - I had the Power Limit/Temps maxed and the Core Voltage

Just tried it - it booted up to 2115 MHz and then crashed. Same results.

So I ran the OC Scanner in my msi Afterburner, and it gave me a safe Core Clock of +240. I have my memory clock set to +500 (for starters) and Temp Limit is at 80, Power Limit at 98%. Voltage I left alone, and it seemed to work fine on Rainbow Six Siege, but when I try to boot up Odyssey, it boots up and then the clock just boots up crazy, and then crashes. It goes up to I think about 2100 Mhz or so on the core clock, and then I suppose to throttle it it goes back down. Any help? (New to overclocking) Also side note, I don't think any game has pushed the window behind it to the second monitor, but Odyssey has done that so far. Any reason why?