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German_John

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  1. As I mentioned in my edit, I am already running them at 2133MHz, it was still BSODing all the time.
  2. Interesting, hand't heard of flex mode. I suppose I'll just torture it with driver verification for a few more hours and if that's stable, it probably won't BSOD. Thanks!
  3. Hey everyone, after fighting BSODs for a while, I think that either a DIMM or a RAM slot is broken. No BSODs while using slots 2 and 4 (going from CPU socket), immediate BSOD while using slots 1, 2, and 4, and (so far) no BSODs using slots 2, 3, and 4 with the same sticks as before. So either way, I can't populate all slots, either because a slot is dead or a RAM stick is dead. I have a matching set of 4 8GB GSkill Aegis 3000MHz sticks. I'd much rather have 24GB than 16GB, obviously - but other posts are quite ambiguous on whether this is a good idea, generally advising against mixing and matching RAM (which I wouldn't be doing) or mentioning that it'd run in single channel. So my question would be if this would be a good idea stability wise, and whether it'd actually run in single channel. Buying a new motherboard isn't a very attractive option, as I'm running a Ryzen 1600 and wouldn't want to inveset in a dying platform - B550 doesn't support it afaik, and I might upgrade once GPU pricing becomes reasonable, so throwing money at a mobo that I might run for a year or so doesn't seem great. EDIT: Before anyone mentions it: I'm running the RAM at 2133MHz to make sure the BSODs weren't from the RAM being too fast. I know first gen Ryzen doesn't like that very much.
  4. Thanks! Unfortunately, I don't think a 1080 will work for my purposes (a friend has already volunteered to help me out with their 2060, but something higher end would be interesting. And more convenient than writing detailed instructions...)
  5. Hey everyone, for research purposes, I need access to RTX voice. Usually, I'd use the university's computer labs for that, but due to COVID they are currently not usable. Buying an RTX card is not an option right now (for obvious reasons). But then it hit me - is there an online service that could accomplish this? Basically, I'd need remote access to a Windows PC running an RTX 2060 or higher with VB-Cable, RTX Voice and Audacity (or similar). Something like GeForce Now, but for general computing instead of just games.
  6. Yeah, I'm in Europe so time zones are always an issue... Annoyingly, it has a proprietary 16V PSU (I think it might be a 3 pin DIN connector on the end or something) so I can't just chuck another PSU on there and call it a day. Weird thing... the plug on the unit has 3 pins and a shield, but it's a two pin plug into the wall. I guess I can just multimeter it to see what comes out of where.
  7. The problem doesn't occur when only plugged into the wall, only when also plugged into USB. Also persists with different outlets. Wouldn't that mean that it's not due to AC power?
  8. Sounds like it, yes. Sounds a lot more like the 60Hz example in this than the 120Hz.
  9. Hey all, I've had some used harman kardon soundsticks (II, I believe) for a while now. Today, they've started humming/buzzing. The soundsticks are mains powered (16V) and connect to the sound source (i.e. a computer) via USB. I've determined the issue to be the USB cable, I think. Unplugging both USB and power, then only plugging in power makes the hum go away. Re-plugging USB makes it start again. Unplugging USB but leaving them powered when humming does NOT stop the humming. It's a low, 60ish Herz sound. My best guess is that the cable broke near the USB connector on the back of the PC and power is leaking into data or something? Idk. The problem is present on both my main desktop as well as my laptop. The noise only comes from the bass speaker, not the sattelite tweeters/woofers. Unfortunately, the USB cable is not replaceable by design. Of course, I could just cut it off and solder a new cable to it (and pray that I can insulate them...) but I'm not very good at soldering. Better than not having speakers though. Though before I go about cutting non-replaceable cables I wanna be sure that that's the right thing - and also where to cut the cord.
  10. Really? I only found 1650 mobile vs 1050 comparisons on notebookcheck and they had the 1650 wiping the floor with the 1050 - is that only an issue on the nitro?
  11. Well, there's only three real contenders. The Deall G3, the TUF in the second row, and the Nitro next to it (second row, second from the right). Those have GTX1650s instead of 1050s (you're looking at 50ish percent more FPS in games with the 1650). Of those, the Intel 9300H seems to outperform the Ryzen chip in general. So I'd say go with the nitro, since it has a larger SSD.
  12. CMOS clearing can be annoying af in my experience. Try a couple of times. Just take the batter out and wait for a while. That worked for me before.
  13. Thanks! I'll buy a backup board just to be safe - they're so cheap I can easily fry a few.
  14. Sorry, I should have made it a bit more clear. I saw that article, too. My question was whether the way I think it works would actually work, i.e. taking the inputs on the board, soldering the resistors to each, then soldering those together and to one of the outputs.
  15. Hey everyone, I recently got a pretty decent 8 Ohm speaker for virtually free. My goal is to turn it into a cool little bluetooth/aux speaker thing I can take with me. I also have a PAM8403 amp board with a 3.5mm input. Now, connecting just one output isn't a great solution. I'd miss one entire channel, which sucks for music. What would be the best way to get around that? Could I just solder a 100 Ohm resistor to the left and right inputs on the board, connect them together, and then connect those to one of the outputs? I'm not very well versed around this (actually, not at all, basically). So any help would be appreciated.
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