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turquato

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About turquato

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  1. hey @Likwid thanks for the immediate reply. I did try changing ram slots before. I also did use just the single stick of ram on different boards supporting much higher frequencies.
  2. So I have a stick of 2GB DDR3. when installed alone in a compatible board, nothing appears on display nor beeping sounds. but when another stick of ram is installed, the computer boots, but only a single stick is detected by the BIOS and the OS. But while using CPU Z, and a 4GB stick is installed together with the 2GB stick (ram in question). The 2GB stick appears but with very limited information displayed on CPU Z. The 2GB stick has not been in use for quite some time but has been placed in its original container so to avoid damaging it. What could have caused this problem?
  3. You guys guessed it correctly...thank you so much for the answers.
  4. haha...true! sorry I didn't provide the specifics. its a DeepCool Maelstrom 240T. I never saw one with that thing on the radiator. however, I now know what it is. it is actually the fill-port. I saw it from Greg Salazar's video. He had a DeepCool Captain and the having compared the two, that part in question was mentioned as a fill-port.
  5. I was thinking that its the fill port too or the anti-leak valve but I don't really know what it is since there are no specifics with regards to the radiator of this AIO model. I've check their site already but thats the only thing I have of it. Sorry for the low res image. I was just thinking maybe there are forum members that have purchased this AIO.
  6. I was thinking that its the fill port too but I don't really know what it is since there are no specifics with regards to the radiator of this AIO model. I've check their site already but thats the only thing I have of it. Sorry for the low res image
  7. Hi, Does anyone know what's the purpose of the encircled portion of the radiator for?
  8. I agree that it'll cost me, but compared to the price of one (1) Noctua Fan brand new, I could buy me about 4-8 scythe slim fans and still have extra. How can you say that it has no practical benefit? Have you tried it before or have read something about it? Can you point me to it please. Yes, I'm aiming for aesthetics but I am not keen on removing the bracket as I am using it as the tie down point for some of the thick mess at the back.
  9. Why not? I've tried the push-pull config in the case before, but because of the cable shroud of the S340, I was not able to fit another 120mm or 140mm fan on top of the rad to make it completely push-pull config. So instead of using four (4) regular thickness fans, I was only able to use three (3) 2fans as intake (push), one (1) at the bottom for pull and the top was left empty.
  10. thinking about what you said, I still haven't bought the scythe slim fans, and I might stick with the current stock fans. but if anyone has other inputs about this, please comment on.
  11. PARTS IN HAND: NZXT S340 DeepCool Maelstrom 240T AIO (wih 2pcs stock fans) WHAT I WANT TO DO: Could I use 4pcs Scythe 120mm slim fans (12mm thick) on push-pull config? Are these fans any good? If not, what are the best alternative slim fans I could get?
  12. Hi! A bit of a back story So recently I was given a ASUS K43S (K43SJ) to tear apart by a friend to get the hard disk. This laptop was missing its battery and power adapter so I was not able to test it immediately but it was supposedly working. I went to a computer store and was hoping to purchase an adapter for the laptop. Upon arriving I asked the store owner if I could test the laptop and the power adapter if either one works but unfortunately, the laptop did not exhibit any indication that it was receiving any power from the adapter. So now the obvious option is to find a battery pack, which I did, and unfortunately still no sign of life from the laptop so I held up on the purchase of both battery and power adapter. I got stuck for days and weeks thinking what I could do to give it life. Then I found a power adapter which unfortunately did not have the correct fit for the laptop. Modified Adapter So I cut off the wire of the adapter (19volts forgot AMPS) and soldered the positive and negative directly to the laptop motherboard and lo and behold....lights and fans started working (hurray!!!) A success short lived After I seeing that what I did was somehow powering the laptop, I felt confident, pumped up even to proceed with testing. And when it POSTed it showed me the press F2 to enter setup and F4 for BBS Popups and about 5 seconds after pressing either of them, the laptop turns off, cycles back on with the CAPSLOCK LED ON and a black screen. Quick Summary A ASUS K43SJ laptop with no hard disk, no battery and missing a power adapter. Tested with new battery and power adapter but did not power on. Modified a power adapter directly soldered to the board. Laptop turns on but cannot enter BIOS then turns off, then on and stuck on a black screen. Other things done I have removed the CMOS Battery (this allowed me to see the BIOS prompt every time before switching off. If I don't remove this, I'm always stuck on a black screen. Also changed with new one.), pressed and held on to the power button for quite a while (to drain power from capacitors) Queries Is there any other way to access the BIOS? What other methods of troubleshooting should be done? Any bit of help is appreciated.
  13. Just came to check for replies. I remember to have read the thread you have linked. I also tried reaching out to them on discord with my problem but the isolation was still there. I even went to my ISP to acquire the suggested administrator credentials to no avail. Thank you @Alex Atkin UK for helping me out with my query. At the moment, I am sticking with my first solution. Will give updates whenever I find a better, less costly, solution.
  14. I'm sorry for this very late reply. While I was browsing the internet I found an (and forgot which) article saying that my modem has a hidden option called LAN & WAN isolation. This option disables ports 2-4 on my modem router and apparently the link between WIRED and WIRELESS. If I were to follow the instructions provided I will be able to see the option of enabling or disabling the LAN & WAN isolation and thus allow me to use all four (4) Ethernet Ports on the modem router and establish a link between WIRED and WIRELESS. On this illustration above you can see that I am just using the modem/router provided by my ISP. My problem with this setup is that, all WIRED devices were the only ones seeing each other (able to ping, transfer files etc.). The same can be said with the WIRELESS devices (Android Phone, RPi0W). I am unable to connect using a WIRED device (Windows PC using Putty/Remote Desktop) to a WIRELESS device (RPi0W using Putty/Remote Desktop) and vice-versa (no ping, no shared folders/files). The WIRED to WIRED Configuration was able to connect locally and to the internet and the WIRELESS to WIRELESS Configuration was also able to connect locally and to the internet. But WIRED to WIRELESS network connectivity was not possible So I guess the LAN & WAN isolation function being referred to here is just the isolation of WIRED and WIRELESS Networks (or as you have mentioned the WiFi --- LAN bridge). The next illustration shows that I have disabled my modem/routers WiFi (scratched and marked by black lines) and added a Router. Works good to date The Modem/Router my ISP provided was the limiting factor here. They have disabled Ports 2, 3, & 4 and disabled the WiFi to LAN bridge. It also forced me to purchase (used) switch and a separate router which thankfully didn't burn a hole in my pocket.
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