TheGrumpyDwarf
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ohh dear. my suggestion is to get someone in who knows what he/she is doing. a general inspection of all the joints looks to be in order. other obvious things will be picked up too. if the joints are good the system can be flushed out under mains pressure. then the system can be treated with various appropriate chemicals such as products by fernox for example. i do not work for fernox. kamco is another similar company. there are many others. you seem just to keep digging that hole but probably not worth it now. just put it down to experience & do it right next time.
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i did think twice about writing that :rolleyes:
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the break tank is a device used industrial aplications. not really necessary here. it would have been better if i had just drawn in a double check valve or non return valve if you like (so as a liquid can pass in under pressure but not come out. when necessary a stirrup pump for example could be attached in order to introduce fluid. it makes no difference where in the system this is connected. the system would be filled without any pump running. that would be asking for trouble. with the valves open to one pc at a time. the liquid would be under pressure, air will naturally gravitate to the highest point & be forced out of the air vents. the auto air vents work a little like the non return valve. it will let air out but not liquid. once the system is filled & under pressure (0.3 bar perhaps) & vented, if balanced i doubt there would be any need for individual pumps within each pc. though that is debatable.
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ok i have tried my best to provide a diagram. just a rough idea you understand. now let's see if this works. i think i may have missunderstood you LabRat. p.s. i can't spell. but i try my best
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then you end up with a load of tee's, just what you thought the problem was & still end up with a one pipe system. one pipe systems have not been used in the UK in residential properties for perhaps 30 years. & yes Kevguy aav's would help. i suggested it in my first post.
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gate valves will leak eventually. they restrict flow to some extent too. full bore butterfly or lever valves are a far better option (these are ball valves). valves on the one pipe system you describe will not provide a bypass, the system will just stop working if it is turned off. Nomadluap is recomending an upgrade to the system to the one you describe. valves fitted on each drop on that system will work. unfortunately it is still a one pipe system & is inefficent. though it is used in some industrial/commercial installations.
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you are describing a single pipe system. that design went out with the arc i'm afraid. if one pc is taken out of the loop for some reason the whole system goes down. yes i know a bypass could be fitted. but that would be more trouble than it's worth. also the last pc in series gets some roasting fluid to try to cool it.
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ok i'm new here. i have not checked out all the posts yet so please excuse me if i have missed something. i am a a heating engineer or 'plumber' of some description if you wish. i mainly deal with gas boilers & wet central heating systems. you seem to have had a lot of trouble with at least one leak & venting the system. yes i know hindsight is 20/20. but did you consider fitting a 'sealed system'? no reservoir would need to be installed. just the adition of an expansion vessel, pressure relief valve, auto air vents, full bore butterfly valves on the flow & returns to each pc & a break tank for filling perhaps. the system could have been presurised with air to test for leakage first. filling & air removal would be straightforward. perhaps a temperature fail safe device (or devices) could be installed. a more elegant solution i am sure could have been arrived at to disperse the produced heat (or captured as the case my be) i am sure of. just something to think about in the future. good luck with the move in the new year.
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