AJ-Goodrich

I'd start with Windows OS corruption. There is a script that will do checks against your system's health. The version I have that works fine is named: "image-health_17.01.05" You can google the rest.

https://www.anandtech.com/show/2404/5 Take a good gander at that article. It explains your exact issue.

3200 DC looks best imho. Highest FPS.

Still would lean on the side of not fixing it unless you get a new shell. A piece of electrical table across it in an "X" pattern (a few times over) should be strong enough. I really wouldn't go sticking something that can turn into dust or chunks/particles into a device on the notion of looks. You have a cool story to tell about how it got broke if asked... and you are worrying too much! The best part is you're going to school and soon enough when you get out you can get a killer laptop cause you'll make more money after school.

I'd just throw a real bandaid on it and or get one that says Oops and move on with my life or ... get a new case/shell for it. If it works dont fix it.

It has a picture for those 1-3 seconds. FYI. Didn't post that. Sorry.

2013 ish

I have a dell monitor that turns on after the power button is pressed then goes off within 1-3 seconds. What could be causing this and how do I begin to troubleshoot this? I mean I've tried many different cables/types of cable, including multiple power cables, wiggled, held power plug and cables in certain pressure "positions" (example: Pressing the power cable to the "fatter" edge of the plug. Example #2: North South East West and it doesn't fix it. seems like the ports are fine. I believe its something internal but i'd like to fix this monitor and move on.

I particularly got some wing nut type washers made of a steel alloy and anodized black. A little bit of blue rtv lightly applied to the washers on one side along with the screw threads will also reduce vibrations and possible failure points. I use blue rtv on ALL of my screws and parts that are mechanical on my case. It helps lock the screws in and avoid loosening or backing out which are generally the vibration noises. Try it. Tell me what you think of BlueRTV. The only thing I wish that would change was the color. The quality is amazing.

Ace/True Value hardware, they have a GRIP of tiny rubber washers. They also carry vinyl ones. If you combined the two (one of each) then you can get the full absorption from vibration. Your build quality will also determine your outcome for vibration noises. A well build case shouldn't run into those issues, if so VERY rarely and I'd be questioning the case manufacturer if it came out of the box with vibration noises from properly installed fans.

I would love to run 5.4ghz on mine I think it would be fine around 1.45-1.48v "ish" This case did come to mind and i considered to have it be a daily driver as it is expensive the speed I would run at would be astronomical.

So then the case is pointless because you're gonna fry your chips then?

OK... not nitpicking but I seem to have a different understanding then you? I guess? and I am going to call it out here because you may have a better understanding of it and I respect this but in the same sentence maybe I am also possibly right here?... " It can slowly cause issues with the transistors degrading as your pushing more and just wearing out from running at the higher voltages. " The whole point of a phase change cooling is to change the "phase" in which a chip will run. When you icy cool down transistors, capacitors etc... such as the quoted case.. and alter the state it runs at to allow the higher voltages without damaging. I would consider degradation a factor if it WASN'T cooled by these means. (and not trying to steer too far off topic here... it relates to the OP. )

Degradation at that low of temps? I think not... How so? (Not trying to be rude but I don't believe at those temps you'd fall into the degradation category)

I wish we could have seen that phase change case push the boundaries of the 4790K. I have said this even on the video itself (in the comments) and no response to that. 5GHZ is NOTHING on that case. You should have been able to get in the 5.6ghz + range with that chip and higher voltages. (Around 1.65v) I dreamed of seeing that.

Try a "mem ok" button on the board. It might have old bios settings, reset the CMOS again try pulling the battery out. I heard from an ASUS rep when my board wouldn't boot to pull the battery out of it, hold the reset for 30 seconds then let it sit 30 MINUTES. Then hold the reset button WHILE inserting the battery back into the board after the 30 minutes. Now you don't have to do this... but it helped me when my Maximus VII Hero wouldn't boot right. Brought it back to life...

Assuming from what I read yesterday you DO have a CPU cooler installed?

So you get it to turn on and does it beep?

If the speaker is plugged in and the beeps don't happen I would say it's possible you have other issues. Do you have other ram sticks possibly? (Make sure there is only 1 plugged into A1 ram slot)

You are using the "Q Connector" correct? Does it have a speaker attached?

Also just plug in your main HDD for now. Skip the storage drives. You don't run Raid correct?

Most motherboards these days have some sort of beep codes, posting codes etc... Are you getting any of this? Did you re-seat your video card? Is your MB seated properly? If you're moving too fast you might be causing more problems for yourself. Slow DOWN... and try re-seating everything. Including the CPU. Remove slowly, make sure everything is removed, check under the motherboard for cords/objects and make sure it's screwed down properly to the tray the board belongs on, with the proper amount of screws etc. Once you see it's seated/centered properly check for ANY damages on the board itself. THEN Plug in the CPU, THEN your cooler. Use the onboard video if it has any first, you can still post a system to get the "beep" of it booting successfully. As long as that first beep happens and you don't get any more post/beep codes (Sometimes like on mine there is a small LED letter/number read out) which tells me more. If you don't have onboard video then try carefully making sure the seating of your video card is centered and evenly pushed into the top/nearest to CPU... PCI-E slot. Plug in any power cables on the video card. If you don't have these you may not get a post.

Ok well I need to know more about your setup. Please list the specs and where you have stuff placed on the board.

Why did you switch it if it's running fine? Also did you reset your Z97 cmos/bios to defaults? Reboot it, see if it works, then configure what you need to.

You know the cable with the pins for the CPU? Do you have 4 or 8 pins added? Also, is this overclocked or over=volted? ] I would reset your CMOS/BIOS to defaults. Run it at stock for the moment.