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Striker579

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  • Posts

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

System

  • CPU
    AMD Ryzen 7 2700X (undervolt/PB 4.35GHz)
  • Motherboard
    Asus Strix X370-F
  • RAM
    G Skill Trident Z RGB 3200 16-18-18-38
  • GPU
    XFX RX580 8GB
  • Case
    Fractal Define S Black
  • Storage
    OS - Samsung 960 EVO 500GB NVMe, Storage - Samsung 850 EVO 500GB SATA (game), WD Red 4TB (mass)
  • PSU
    Corsair RM750i
  • Display(s)
    Samsung SyncMaster P2350 (1080p)
  • Cooling
    stock AMD Wraith Prism
  • Keyboard
    Corsair Strafe MX Browns
  • Mouse
    Logitech G500
  • Sound
    Sennhieser HD6XX
  • Operating System
    Win 10 64-bit

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  1. Great to hear you are up and running. cheers.
  2. Hello, I am inclined to think it is a VGA problem. You noted "using a different cable", was this a DP cable? If so did you use another DP or try HDMI? Please try, if you have not already, a different connector style. From here I will take some liberty to assume you started with a DP cable and tried with another DP. Please update if HDMI works without issues. Good luck, Striker Please excuse my restating of same directions in different ways. I am just trying to be clear but sometimes just make things worse...
  3. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/KL7WWX $3125 at time of post. If you can not spend anything over $3000 swap the 1080 Ti for a plain 1080 from MSI, but I would save up the difference for the 1080 Ti. I went with a low profile down firing cpu cooler as you said you will not be overclocking much. If you ever want to OC you can repurpose this cooler to a smaller build like a HTPC or small server
  4. Without running a memtest first, if you run into instability with your CPU test it still can be a RAM problem which i would first guess based on the ntoskrnl error, Make sure you don't skip that memtest completely. If you find an error with memtest go thru the usual steps to try and isolate if it is just one DIMM or maybe the slot on the mobo. If you suspect a slot make sure to borrow a known working DIMM and use that to make sure. If after that you still suspect that same slot check it for debris or black (burnt) pins. Lastly if the slot looks to be in working order remove your CPU and look for bent pins or burnt contacts there as that can cause an inop DIMM slot.
  5. Hello, Can you clear up for me which monitor is not working? From what i read it is monitor 3 which is connected by DVI. If that is the case I would still switch out that cable for a known good one just to tick that box. Next if it was not the DVI cabled monitor and the inop monitor is the one using the HDMI to DP adapter, you may have a passive adapter when you need an active displayport adapter for eyefinity. Good luck I hope this helps.
  6. Hello I have some steps you could take to try narrow down your problem, you also could have 2 different problems if i am understanding your whocrashed reports: A ntoskrnl error is most times due to memory so check your RAM timings are proper for your kit (1600 Mhz) and run a stability test like memtest. If that passes move to a CPU stability test that will utilize most of your RAM, a program like OCCT will stress your CPU with 90% mem usage. If all the above is fine lets move on to the nvlddmkm.sys error: Run any GPU stress test tool to see if that will cause a crash. If the crash occurs when the test ends and not while it is running (you can end the test early to check this) you should try updating your GPU's bios, sometimes called vbios, THIS IS NOT THE SAME AS A DRIVER. There is a good article here: http://www.tomshardware.com/faq/id-2288384/upgrade-gpu-bios.html Please do these in the order listed and let me know where your computer fails or if all these steps did not point you to a solution.
  7. I would stop troubleshooting your computer until you have a new PSU installed since you know your problems started after a power outage with blown fuse, fuses pop from a power spike so you trying to start your computer over and over could be causing more damage as you might have a failed PSU.
  8. Amazon is showing up as 124.50 in my shopping cart. Maybe it sold out in the last 5 hours.
  9. One of many problems BB has with their business model.
  10. Best Buy.com has Sennheiser HD 558 Headphones on Sale for $89.98 free shipping or can do in store pick up. Best Buy is calling them Sennheiser - Audiophile Over-the-Ear Headphones - Titan but the model marks them as HD558. I think this is a common price for used cans or ones on ebay. So I post this as a good deal for new headphones that you don't have to worry are knock-offs.
  11. TigerDirect.com has 8GB (2x4GB) ADATA XPG DDR3 1866 Desktop Memory (AX3U1866W4G10-DR) on sale for $89.99 - $20 Rebate - $15 off promo code VMJ152440 (apply at checkout) = $54.99 Promo Code ends 2/4/15 Rebate ends 2/28/15
  12. Newegg.com has 750W EVGA SuperNOVA 80+ Bronze Modular Active PFC Power Supply (110-B1-0750-VR) for $64.99 - $30 rebate = $34.99 with Free Shipping. Rebate ends 2/5/15
  13. I haven't seen an itx version yet, I only know of atx and matx anniversary mobo. I would say that first linked board is a no go. It will come with a inop DIMM slot 1 due to missing pin in the cpu socket. Being an itx board that leaves you with only one operational ram slot which means no dual channel and max 8 gigs which will not give you the years of use you are looking for. I am interested in this thread as i am too looking for a cheap build around a pentium G3258 for my sons first gaming rig. Keep the advice rolling.
  14. I am glad to hear you are making headway, keep trying to eliminate variables like you said the power strip, they get old or fail eventually so that's a good one to eliminate. If your home has old wiring you might be drawing too many amps from the circuit you are on or might have clean power problems no matter what you do.
  15. My method involves the old trusty mulimeter, i dont know if there is a faster, better way but start from the wall outlet and look for steady and strong voltage over 110 VAC, unless you live in 220 land. Then move to your card and check the 6 and/or 8 pin connectors that you are using for the same clean power and then you can use the voltage hard points on your card if you have any or just use a software monitor (less accurate than putting a multimeter to the hard points) to see if your voltage is staying in an expected range at idle then again under load. If everything checks out until you throw a load on the card it may be a fault within the power supply, try switching to a different set of PCI-E cables or changing out at least one cable if possible as they might be on the same rail causing a problem if the psu is already starting to fail. 2 more troubleshooting options, plug in to a different outlet in the room and change out the power cable from wall to your psu, that one is a hard one to catch and cheap/fast to rule out.
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