mctonale

It would appear so. Not exactly what I was thinking, if I had the time and equipment I'd experiment to see how effective static water in 15mm copper pipe at varying lengths would be. Also I'd see how much water flow would be needed and how it would affect temps.

I get that but, if it absorbs enough heat, there would be no need to have the water running any more than it would normally.

Thanks. I'd move it myself but I can't find how. I don't know if it would waste any water at all. I think it would work well (especially in the UK in winter) but this is why it needs testing.

Into the mains water and the copper pipes. There is a huge volume of cold water that would be moving into a tank, at least sometimes. I'm obviously not saying open a tap all the way. Restricted but open enough to keep the water moving (or maybe closed if normal use works).

I have had a consept.. kicking around for.. Probably 10 years. I want to try "mains fed water cooling", "cool" depends on the season) mains water would be circulated around the system, using standard water cooling fittings (but without a pump and maybe even a rad), achieving sub ambient temps. Where to dump the running water? It could just be pored down the drain for best cooling, but I imagine it could just be put back into the system as a passive.. ish system, dissipating heat throughout the system, until a toilet is flushed or a tap is turned on boosting the effect. Loved whole room water Cooling (actually another idea I'd thought of but you did it wrong ?). I don't have the time or the resorses to try it myself only to see it fail (though I'm convinced it.. "Should" work OK if not well). Please consider giving it a try. I'd be very interested to see if the water would become too warm the be considered "cold" water. My hunch is that even doing a burn in test should see great temps at 0db (if there needs to be a rad does it even need to be in the same room?) Don't data centers do something like this?

Omg, forgot how annoying that was, hasn't been an issue since they moved the sata ports though.

The rebuild cost me £700 with some help from a friend who had some spare parts and a downgrade to 4820k. She will be missed

Quick fix: deselect it from the startup tab in msconfig or delete it from the windows "startup" folder, depends on how it is starting. You should also go through and clean the crapware that it came with as suggested above.

Always.. Got a psu to test at home right now. Everything dies eventually. Worst was a £2 eps extender that burnt out shorted and killed a 850w psu (tagan piperock), an Asus p9x79 motherboard and my 3930k

Cpu: Intel (since threading). Gpu: any branded nvidia. Used to run amd and I have had a few ati cards but I prefer nvidia.

I always seem to scrape my knuckles on something.

That psu would be great for upgrading my htpc.