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meltingtomato

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About meltingtomato

  • Birthday Feb 11, 1991

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Toronto, ON
  • Interests
    Anime, League of Legends

System

  • CPU
    i7 4790K 4.4GHz @ 1.2V
  • Motherboard
    ASUS Maximus VI Impact
  • RAM
    Mushkin DDR3 1866MHz 2x8GB
  • GPU
    Sapphire R9 280X Dual-X
  • Case
    Cooler Master Elite 130
  • Storage
    Adata SP550 480GB, WD Blue 750GB 2.5", Blue SSHD 1TB, Red 1TB
  • PSU
    Silverstone SX600
  • Display(s)
    LG 22MP55, 29UM58
  • Cooling
    Corsair H80i GT, Silverstone Air Pens 2x 120mm, 1x 140mm
  • Keyboard
    Cooler Master CM Storm Quickfire TK MX Brown
  • Mouse
    Zowie ZA11
  • Sound
    Logitech 5.1 something or other
  • Operating System
    Windows 7 Ultimate

Recent Profile Visitors

714 profile views
  1. The price is alright, but 24" for 1440p is pretty damn small - like using a 13.3" 1366x768 laptop screen. As for the quality, I don't have much personal experience with AOC, so I would check the reviews on YouTube, Amazon, and Newegg before buying. If you are going to buy the AOC, 27": http://www.pcmarket.com.au/shop/aoc/monitors/aoc-ag271qx-27-1ms-144hz-wqhd-gaming-monitor
  2. It's what Synnex has up. While you can't see Synnex's catalog without an account from Synnex, ASI for instance can searched - Google 'ASI partner'. Once it's added to the catalog, many retailers (including NCIX) add it to their database, many times with the details as is. I'm sure if you ask Linus, he can confirm this as a former product manager. Edit: http://ec.synnex.ca/vendors/INTEL.html
  3. What games do you play though? For instance, because I play primarily low-elo League of Legends, with a few open world/civ games on the side, the LG 29UM58 has been great for me. While do you want to spend about the same on your monitor(s) as your video card, what you play matters as much as your budget. EDIT: I didn't read your post correctly - give me a sec. EDIT 2: If you're not dead set on a single monitor, consider a 144Hz 1080p panel (Asus VG248/MG248, Benq XL2411), and complement that with a IPS panel (LG 24MP48 and ASUS VP239 on the lower end, LG 29UM58 and ASUS MX series on the higher end side). You'll easily get very acceptable frame rates, even on high/ultra, while being able to enjoy content on the side. The two Benq GW2765HT's are also an option as mentioned earlier, but only 60Hz. If you only want the single monitor, depending on what they run you, the Acer XG270HU (there should be a 271 version with IPS iirc) or ASUS MG278/279 (278 is TN, 279 IPS). While G-Sync is quite nice, and worth it if you find something like the XB270 or PG278 on sale for Black Friday, high refresh rate is still preferred.
  4. It will last until the amount of RMAs on broken glass side panels makes it unfeasible for companies to continue selling them, at least at the rates we see now. Also, while it looks amazing, not all consumers want tempered glass, either for weight, cost, or shipping concerns. (Although with the InWin 303, cost concerns kinda vanished.)
  5. Quick update on these - there's all Synnex SKUs (as they start with SY). If Synnex lists it (same situation with IngramMicro, ASI, TechData, D&H, etc), it will almost always get automatically listed on the site. http://www.ncix.com/search/?qcatid=0&q=BX80677
  6. Except that when it was plugged into a hard drive dock on my laptop, it didn't work, and simply showed up as a Sandforce device, and refused to initialise in Disk Management. In any case, it's moot now, as the replacement drive is working, and my old data is gone. Thanks anyway though.
  7. I spoke with Mushkin before I went to Canada Computers, and they informed me that when the drive shows only the controller's name, it means that one of the memory chips has gone kaput. Well, I have my new drive (not sure why this drive is rated at 0.8A instead of the former's 4A), and I learned my lesson, back up important data in triplicate at minimum.
  8. I actually like the pseudo-tenkeyless keyboard I have, the K360 Wireless keyboard from Logitech. The size is the same as a tenkeyless or a laptop keyboard (I'm using it to replace my laptop's dead onboard keyboard), but the size is great, and you get the numpad in place of the pgup/pgdn/ins/del keys, which are moved to the top of the keyboard. I would love to see more tenkeyless-sized mechanical keyboards use this exact layout, although I doubt anyone else does. Edit I do miss my Poseidon Z from Thermaltake. I wish I knew how to resolder the usb connection from the cable to the pcb...
  9. So a follow up update: I came home, tried booting my computer, no change. It is identified in the BIOS as "SandForce(200026BB) 0.0GB", rather than the product code Mushkin identifies it as. I tried rebooting, swapping cables and ports, and now am writing this message from my laptop with the SSD plugged into a Thermaltake drive dock, and the drive only shows up as a (queue the suspense) SandForce 200026BB device. Seeing as either the controller locked up/fried/bashed a hammer at itself, what is/are my options going forward? I've accepted that it will need to undergo some form of RMA (hopefully the $10 I gave Canada Computers means I get a new drive this week, some sort of 3 year "direct product replacement" plan I paid for, I believe my logic at the time was "can't afford Samsung/Intel, I'll give Mushkin a try, but just in case..."), but how do go about getting this going, and would it make sense to try to have what is left of the data extracted off of it? Once again, thanks for any and all input and insight provided.
  10. I'll try the othee sata ports later tonight whem I get back home. If the data can be read off of it, I can always use my friend's sata to usb3 dock. That said, both my dvd drive, and my Seagate Barracida show up normally. If only I hadn't scratched my Linux Mint dvd. I'll update later this evening, I'll grab his dock before I leave.
  11. Hey guys, so I came after doing some groceries, figured I'd connect my cable box to my computer (the Hauppage tv capture card was connected and working prior to this), but when I tried to boot up, I got a "no boot device found" message. After hitting enter amd restarting a few times, I went into the BIOS of my GB 990FXA-UD3, only to find that my Mushkin Chronos G2 240gb was showimg up as "Sandforce (controller code, I'll edit it in later) 0.0B)". How screwed am I? The drive itself I can get replaced (it's why I paid the extra $10 for...), but my data, what is the fate of my poor data?! Oh, worth nothing, when I last ran CrystalDiskInfo, it showed up as Healthy (95%). Any insight is very much appreciated.
  12. I'm pretty happy with my CM Elite 130, but it lacks the window you want. Raijintek Metis perhaps? The nice thing is that it (the Raijintek case) is on sale at NCIX US right now, USD$40.
  13. 3-6 months ago, parity or modest premium. Now though...just look at a 6 month chart on ca.pcpartpicker.com. pick your products, it's all the same. Hell, E3 1220 Xeon $220 to $270 CAD in 6 months. The references @LinusTech makes to how much the Canadian dollar has fallen are no joke. Oil goes down, dollar goes down. Yay petrocurrency!!!
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