DAOWAce

This is the 2nd or 3rd time this has happened, isn't it? Really curious as to what was different about this one.

If you haven't yet reset Windows, I finally found a fix for this issue. The issue with the NVCP was really a root issue of UWP (of course). Everything worked fine under a new user account. This lead to a more focused investigation, and in the end I wound up using a tool that reset a bunch of things. The Xbox app started working properly (sign-in) and not complaining, Gamebar actually worked and didn't immediately end the GameBarFTServer.exe and refuse to open, and now after installing DCH drivers again, the NVCP works without issue as well. I was never lead here because.. I never used Gamebar (disabled it on a system level), and only recently got into Gamepass stuff, since it wouldn't work on 1709. This is the tool I used: https://www.tweaking.com/content/page/windows_repair_all_in_one.html The functions I ran were Reset Registry Permissions (did first by itself, no fix), Reset File Permissions, Reset Service Permissions, Register System Files and Repair WMI. Had I the patience, I wish I could've known which one actually fixed it. One of them reset default programs, which was quite unwelcome as I had numerous things customized. I believe Windows Store apps were messed up after (missing links, showing as ms-app or w/e), so I ran the Repair Windows App Store function, which didn't fix it, and the complete reset option, which did, but also didn't (and obviously resets every app installed). That or I ran these both and it's what broke everything, really can't remember. To fix the apps again I had to run https://github.com/AgentRev/WindowsAppsUnfukker After that.. it was as if I made a new user account, but still had all my old data. Everything working flawlessly.. besides being UWP apps. Hope this post (and the one on Reddit) help the 0.000001% of people googling a fix for this.

Funny how the first reply to this topic is a complete non-understanding of the problem, and from a moderator no less. I've been running into this too after finally updating Windows to a version that supports DCH drivers (been on v1703 since 2017, long story). Ripping my hair out looking for a fix. A fresh install of Win10 20H1 has everything working fine, but my old upgraded Win10 1909 from 1703 which was then from Win 7 is running into this permissions issue. Taking ownership of the directory lets me launch it manually and everything seems to work mostly fine.. but any shortcuts to the 'app' (ie; desktop context menu) still spit out the same error. Manually opening the control panel every time is horrid. UWP is a plague on Windows. NVIDIA never should've stopped releasing non-DCH drivers. Edit: Could try this: https://github.com/AgentRev/WindowsAppsUnfukker Didn't work for me for the NVCP, but re-fixed the other 'apps' I broke trying to fix it. Still no solution to the issue as of August 9 2022. Still forced to use the last non-DCH driver for the NVCP to work correctly, which includes having G-sync functional (mandatory).

As someone who upgraded to a 3440x1440 144Hz display from a 2560x1080 75Hz with a 1080 Ti, not having a GPU to drive it at its native refresh rate is a pretty miserable experience. Used to go from maxing out every game at staying vsync capped, even running reshade in numerous titles, to suffering with framerate being well below the native and not being able to use reshade anymore. Adaptive sync helps and is very much required to have the image looking smooth, but once you get used to HFR, you really don't want to go lower. 60FPS looks like how 30FPS did before I got used to 120Hz. Games start to feel a bit jittery when I drop below gsynced 90Hz.. and a 1080 Ti can't run 3440x1440 at anywhere close to 144Hz in modern games, so it's always a battle between IQ and framerate. For example, I refused to play Horizon Zero Dawn because the FPS was dropping below 60 at med-high, and with an enthusiast level card, you really don't want to deal with that. Also as an aside, adaptive sync does not work in windowed mode on a gsync-compatible display despite what NVCP may say. The game has to be in borderless and no other window can be rendering over it (eg. on-top overlays). So if you wanted to run a game in a lower windowed resolution to get better framerate, it might even be a worse experience than fullscreen at a lower framerate, just because of how bad non-adaptive sync judder is. Not the case with this specific monitor though. Until the GPU market stabilizes, I do not recommend jumping up your display... unless you somehow avoid becoming a framerate snob. (and if so, I envy you!)

Besides turning it on and off, there's no configuration options. Free performance is free performance. If you have the RAM to spare (it uses 1GB? maybe 2, can't remember), I don't see a reason to leave it off unless there's some sort of compatibility issue you're running into. That said, I can't say I've noticed a difference either way, but I've not actually done extensive testing.

Doesn't it have a description of what it does right there when you go to activate it? You could also easily just google this. TLDR: It's an idiotproof RAM cache.

Oh hey, this thread is still going. 2016 update: Over the last 10 years, you've spent 7285.7 hours playing this selection, which includes 1263 items, is valued at $15445.92, and requires 3456.9 GB

Kiro for functionality, Kova for sensor, hmm.. Been using ambidextrous mice since they were invented; can't stand ergonomic ones. Shopping for mice online is basically impossible because you can't try them out. Been unhappy with what I've been forced to keep since I had to retire my G3. My Sensei is dying, again, and is now out of warranty; unreliable products. (seems dying mice are a common problem for people posting here too!) If the law of averages says I win, then I'll probably take the Kiro. Form with function wins out IMO.

TLDR? Check the list summary. --- So I've been putting together an X99 build for the last few days and I seem to always come to a brick wall when it comes to case choice for my builds. I've been using a HAF-X for the last ~5 years across a few builds and it's to the point where I absolutely hate it. It's old, it has no native SSD support, it's very open so it lets sound out like no one's business, the tool-less optical drive bay design is awful, needing thumbscrews for pretty much everything is awful. The fan filters are terrible and don't filter dust very well at all; the inside of my case gets covered in days. The 'rugged' design is just a dust cleaning nightmare and it's hard to remove the front and top plastic panels. What I do like is the hot swap bays.. but there's only two of them. They contain my backup RAID. I have 4 more HDDs sitting in storage because there's just nothing for them to fit into. The rest of my drive bays are full of SSDs. I thought about getting some converters for my 5.25" bays, but with the amount of noise penetration from the case, I don't want to have them running. The side GPU support bracket is nice.. but you can't use it with the duct, nor with any odd-sized GPU (pretty much any custom HSF), so it's never been used. The side duct is also nice for actually reducing temperatures (I've tested it), but it also can't be used with a GPU unless you turn it.. and with dual GPUs it's completely unusable, so I recently had to take it out as I finally re-'upgraded' to SLI. The side panels are incredibly beefy, but very heavy, so it's both a love/hate with them, but wow do they scream quality. Now, I know they've revised the case since then to support newer technology better, but I'm just done with it at this point. I've just spent the last 9 hours looking through cases. Cosmos II, Phanteks Primo/Luxe, Phantom 820, Thermaltake T81/10GT, Corsair Graphite 760/780/Obsidian 750/900, Fractal's offerings.. just, nothing seems to be flawless. One case has a feature I want yet misses a bunch of others. One case looks alright overall, yet has multiple flaws mentioned in reviews. I just can't find a full tower case that meets my needs. Cosmos II: Has the same hot swap bays as the HAF-X.. and pretty much everything else. Is bigger, heavier and bulkier. Too big and bulky. Too much of a cable mess. Has amazing looking hinged side panels, and that's most of the reason why I wanted it over the others. But.. no side 200mm fan, and dual open air GPUs could really use them. Can mount smaller fans instead, but smaller fans get noisy for their airflow, and I don't have the clearance measurements for it. Reviews also mention it doesn't use its size well compared to similar cases (900D). Oh, and it costs nearly double the HAF-X. Phantom 820: Phenomenal cable space behind the tray, fan layouts just like the HAF-X (in fact, it's quite a lot like the HAF-X), integrated fan controller and lighting system... and design flaws/annoyances all over the place according to reviews. It's also one of the older cases. It's not all too bad looking, but it seems like it could just be.. more. Primo: This was the case I was ultimately going to settle on as it averaged decent features across the board, despite lacking a side fan at all and everything being 140mm. Back accessed drive bays was another issue too. Built in fan controller with a ton of fan support, excellent looking stock cable management, fairly expansive, mod friendly (though I'd probably not use it), SSD mounts on back of tray.. In fact, if it wasn't sold out at Newegg I probably wouldn't even be writing this post as I would've bought it in a fit of frustration. Luxe: A more budgeted Primo with some differences I can't quite remember now. T81: Was another choice of mine. The dual door side panel was the main focus of this for me as that would lessen the need for hot swap bays. I debated it, until I read a few reviews. Poor quality plastic attachments, fan filters and other misc issues. 10GT: I've always thought this was a stupid case for years, then I finally looked into it. 200mm side fan, check. Hot swap bays? Count: 5 of them! Amazing! Then I read reviews.. the SATA interface is extremely faulty and apparently limited to SATA2. And the design looks like it's a huge dust issue. Dismissed, sadly. 760T: Same hinged side panels as the Cosmos II, but they're huge, flimsy, and swing backwards. Whole case is relatively budget oriented from my point of view. 780T: Amazing side panel latch mechanism; love this type the most.. but aside from the back SSD mounts, it's otherwise not a case I'd want to use. 750D: Reasonably sized compared to the 900D, nice back mounted SSD bays.. a bit too small and too basic otherwise. 900D: Love the bottom compartment and the one button removal side panels, seems even a drive or two can be hot swapped.. but everything else about it is just a bit too old. It's also obscenely large and has more space than I'd ever use. And like the Cosmos II, expensive. Fractal: The XL is just too basic and old and the R5 is a mid tower. They don't seem to have any other adequate cases. Bitfenix: Similar to fractal; no real suitable cases I've seen. Antec: Older cases. (And as for something like CaseLabs.. yeah, I don't quite have that much money to spend on a case.) I just cannot find a suitable case for the life of me. All the ones that seem to have great features (like the latch side panels or a fully run SATA power connector chain to all the drive bays) are mid towers. All the ones with silence oriented features (even just simple sound dampening material) completely skimp on airflow. These full towers all have some issue or two, or ten, that makes them not ideal.. and so here I am asking for help. To summarize, I'd like a case that: Has enough internal space and enough drive bays to connect to a fully loaded ASRock Extreme11 motherboard (with either multiple hot swappable ones or a large covered 5.25" bay that can be converted over). Supports both air and liquid cooling; AIO and custom loops. (I have an NH-D14 but will be transferring to an H105 then a custom solution in the future). Has easy to remove side panels that don't need tools or thumbscrews to be secured. Has proper dust filters and not just generic metal mesh which barely helps. (HAF-X's revisions might've improved it, but I wouldn't know) Has 200mm fans (for airflow and silence) which include a side fan to support open air GPUs (which pretty much everyone uses). I don't know for sure how a non-side fan vs side fan actually compares with GPU and system cooling, but I am assuming a side fan helps more than a straight front -> back/top solution. (If not, please let me know!) Has adequate cable management room behind the motherboard tray to fit everything the hardware needs (that's 20 SATA data cables to that mobo + everything else). Side window preferred, but I'm willing to let it go if a case can match everything else. Other than that, any additional features is a bonus. My eyes are strained from reading and reading and reading and watching videos of so many things that I just can't look at text anymore, so I would greatly appreciate assistance in finding an ideal case for my build. Also, if anyone has recommendations for a 5.25" -> 3.5" hot swap converter bay, I'd like to hear them too. Oh, and it's also 8AM and I've been up all night. Jeez.

I sure hope this doesn't hit 100k replies; would hate Linus to lose his PC that took him what, 2 years to finally complete? If it does, and if I win it (I know I won't win anything), I'd definitely give it back to him. Anyway, here's my entry: DAOWAce https://www.vessel.com/videos/aBRl_4ZS6 https://www.vessel.com/videos/Yj4PbcgKj

Unfortunately, DSR doesn't appear to be available on Vista, yet NVIDIA has made no mention of this. Sad day.. Winning a 980 would lessen my hate on NVIDIA for making us spend a fortune on the 780 before massively discounting it and introducing the 780 Ti. First enthusiast card I ever bought with funds saved up for months and I got screwed hard.

The PB298Q is an AH-IPS panel. I remember reading it being an 8bit panel too, but I can't find that information again when searching now. Was worded poorly. True 8bit according to ASUS. So.. that wouldn't be why. I have yet to actually contact ASUS because, well, not only is their support system terrible, but their customer support is even worse. Sent a ticket, waiting on a disappointing response. I doubt the rep I talked to over on [H] will respond after all these years, and am wary on PMing him again out of the blue. So far, no one knows what could possibly be the issue. My old monitor isn't calibrated beyond the OSD controls; same as the new one. I don't believe calibration with an expensive hardware tool will do anything as this seems like a panel design issue; which no one has seemed to point out in the very few reviews of the monitor there are.

Updated with pictures.

I'll try to keep this brief. I've got a PB298Q. It's an IPS panel. In dark scenes, there's visible artifacting. It's hard to explain, but if I have a character with a light radius (think Diablo) and it fades out into blackness, there will be this horribly artifacted circle around the transition where it goes black. It looks like low bit color. If I change the preset display modes around, the severity of it changes; even disappearing in certain instances (but hurting the rest of the image overall). Edit: Got some pictures. 0% brightness: http://i.imgur.com/PgW8nIp.jpg (I normally use 0%) 100% brightness: http://i.imgur.com/N61qOu9.jpg (Taken to exaggerate the issue) Old monitor: 0%: http://i.imgur.com/x8SxOuv.jpg 100%: http://i.imgur.com/Gb0TrpB.jpg Taken from War for the Overworld, reference image: http://i.imgur.com/uLaeMRK.jpg My old monitor (HP f2304, also IPS) did not show any artifacting in dark scenes; they just weren't very good because of it being an IPS panel and having a CCFL backlight, so blacks couldn't actually be black (I assume). I expected a newer panel with LED backlighting to have better black levels.. but it seems either ASUS is terrible at build quality or 21:9 have backlight bleeding issues, as not only does it suffer this artifacting issue, but the backlight bleeds (or it's this 'IPS glow' I hear things about) and makes dark scenes look greyed out, similar to my old monitor (though I can see a tiny bit better). Edit: Probably just "IPS glow". I've not been able to find any information about this on the net. Has anyone else experienced this or have any idea why this happens? I assumed it was because my old monitor was a high bit panel compared to this one, but reading has lead me to believe that even a 6bit+FRC panel should be very similar to 8bit and the same for 8bit+FRC to 10bit. I THINK this monitor has an 8bit panel, but I need to look it up again. This may be a 'color gamut' issue instead, but I don't know much about that. I bought this solely to game on, but it's honestly been a bit of a worse experience due to how awful the image looks in dark scenes. 21:9 is really nice.. for gaming, but not with these issues.

Er, what? Of course you can; 21:9 is identical to 16:9, just wider. Set your games to 1080p or 1440p; very simple. 'Course, you'll deal with MASSIVE black bars on the side of your screen (pillarboxing), but that's the price we pay.. As for things that don't let you set your resolution, well, just make sure scaling is disabled or set to aspect ratio; or use various tools to workaround things (not sure what's available for mac, but surely some stuff exists). Only real problem there is some indie games and older titles; which are honestly best played on smaller/16:10 monitors respectively (for scaling reasons).