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Not sure if it helps, but here's an Apu paired with a 1070

If you don't want to move it, cleaning it will be a 2 person job. One blowing the air into the PC, the other one using a vacuum cleaner to catch all the dust as it flies out of the case. Whatever you do, don't vacuum the internals unless you have an anti-static vacuum cleaner. Unless you like playing Russian roulette with your PC parts, of course. Then by all means take the chance. Perhaps they will survive just fine.

In other words : 99% of Win7 users have nothing to worry about. There's no need for the alarmist "quick, get Windows 10 or you'll be haxxored !!!!1!" advice. Win7 64bit and Win8.1 is just fine

I wonder if they are counting active devices, not just devices sold and upgraded from an older version. I'm pretty sure that several million new PCs that came with Win10 are currently actually running Win7, Win8.1 or Linux.

Same here, I have my 140mm intakes in the same position. The bottom one is right above the PSU shroud so it blows as much air as possible into the area below the GPU, the other is also in its lowest possible position, which puts it almost perfectly in line with the CPU cooler. My exhaust fan is also in the lowest possible position to make it align with the CPU cooler as much as possible. Never had any issues cooling with just the rear exhaust, even when mining. The moduvent is still on there, so it's not passively exhausting air through the top either.

I'm running 2x 140 intake and a 120 at the rear in my Define C. I didn't really notice any difference when I added a 120 in the top. Then again the Meshify C has a less restricted intake, so you may see a small improvement by going with 4 fans. Either way, I'd put the 140mm Noctuas in the front and one of the original fans in the rear. Then see if the other 120 makes a difference if you mount it in the top.

It never hurts to have some extra flash drives laying around. Don't be like me though, I have a Flash drive hoarding problem.

I think Jay explained it best. See the first 2 minutes.

The T5 is basically an external enclosure for an mSATA SSD. Not sure what model is in there exactly, but it's probably an 860EVO. Both the Samsung and the Crucial have error correcting features, so there's no real difference there. Samsung's NAND typically has a higher write endurance than Micron's (Crucial is part of Micron), but for archival storage that's not really important because you won't be writing hundreds of TB to that drive. So no reason to choose one over the other either.

I can sooo relate to this. Pt 1 Pt 2 Pt 3

Do you Qwant some help with that?

You may want to watch the video above your post then.

Never had any issues with Sharkoon or Hema cables. I try to stay away from the no-name brands because they're really hit-and-miss. I don't mind having a cheap cable that works perfectly, but I do mind the ones that short out after 2 weeks and destroy your motherboard or set your house on fire.

Happy to help. Oh and ... Be sure to stick around. Eventually you might learn how to spell "IQ" ?

Ah, Scandal ... They sure changed their sound compared to before. ?

hmm ... looks like that edge broke off. Is that the result of attempting to get it out? If so, putting a screwdriver in the remaining part probably is going to do the exact same thing. Then again if that happens, you'll have the center piece to grab onto with needle-nose pliers.

@Opencircuit74 Considering that OP managed to get the battery out in the first place, I suspect that he knows this. Those squares are usually on the right-hand side, so it looks to me like the entire battery tray is in upside down.

Some dynamite will sort that out It's probably stuck due to friction between the plastic tray and the remote itself. Can I get a better picture of the area I'm pointing out? Different angles may help, preferably one where I can clearly see the backside and how the tray integrates with that. You may be able to put a flathead screwdriver in there and use it as a lever. That way you'd be able to put more force on the tray than you can do with your fingers.

If you upgrade, you can sell the old motherboard and RAM to offset some of the cost. Not sure how much, you'd have to look on Ebay to find the right price. Look for completed listings, as that gives you the price that people actually pay for them instead of what sellers ask for them. If you can save up that amount of money in a reasonable time and are willing to use whatever your old setup was until you can afford the upgrade, then by all means return it. That's a choice you have to make for yourself, I don't know your financials and how you feel about suffering for a while to get a better performance afterwards.

How long it's been used won't affect the speed. The 8350 was released in October 2012, so it's a 6 year old CPU. That's going to have a hard time dealing with modern games and modern GPUs. Also don't trust bottleneck calculators. Some things are more CPU-intensive, others will be GPU-intensive. Someone may have a CPU bottleneck in one game but a GPU bottleneck in another.

I used to run Bitlocker on all my internal and external drives before I switched over to Veracrypt. Never had an issue turning bitlocker-encrypted drives back to normal. Right-clicking and selecting "format" in Windows Explorer worked just fine, diskpart allows you to clean the drive and create and format a new partition just fine, Gparted can delete the encrypted partition and create and format a new one ... If the system is showing Event ID 7, there really is at least one unreadable block on the drive. By "unreadable" I don't mean "encrypted", I mean "physically damaged". I'm no expert on HDD problems, so I can't give you any advice on how to work around this issue. When a drive starts giving me problems, I simply take it to my local recycling center (I may destroy the platters first if the data on the drive wasn't encrypted, of course) and get another one. As for Gparted, you can indeed run that from a USB drive. Gparted is included on almost every Linux live installer or you can create a Live USB using Gparted's own image. Pick whatever works for you.

Oh yeah, absolutely. But for regular users the extra endurance is just unnecessary. OP clearly is a regular user, so a consumer SSD will suit him just fine.