wyattzx

I'm using Verizon's prepaid service where you simply pay for service from them and use the provided SIM card. You can find the kits at Walmart for $50 and they come with one month of service already. My $40 plan gives me 3GB of data, but if you put a card on your account for auto-renewal every month, they'll give you an extra 2GB of data. The only thing I'm unsure about is whether they offer tethering, as I've never tried.

If you're looking for a monitor that needs to double as a TV, your best bet is to simply get a TV instead. Monitors have poor external sound support, so for your PS4 and Chromecast, you'd likely be relegated to internal speakers. However with a TV, that could be very easily resolved with a receiver and external speakers -- or even a soundbar. The biggest downside is that if you get a TV, your PC experience won't be nearly as comfortable. If you're still adamant about a monitor, let me know. Otherwise, I'll find you the best TV at that price.

Depending on the resolution you play at, the 7700k might be the better option. That should only be true at high resolutions like 3840x2160 however. Furthermore, the extra 8GB of RAM may actually prove very useful to you whilst gaming, so I would argue that in both instances, the 7600k is going to be more than enough for you.

Source: PCGamer Honestly, while removing one "developer's" entire catalog is nice -- and 173 removed titles is almost 1% of all products on Steam, it still leaves me wondering whether this will continue onward, or if this was a one-off sort of deal. Ideally, I'd like to see Valve begin to scout and remove titles from their library which demonstrate qualities of being blatant cash grabs or ripoffs. That being said, what do you guys think?

Based solely on intuition and your shared video, I'm guessing that the current BIOS revision for x399 boards are having a hard time initializing the NVMe controller for the SSD. Even on proper boards NVMe SSDs take longer to boot than SATA variants, and that problem seems to be exacerbated here.

Yep, FreeSync / GSync really opened my eyes as to how nice gaming can be, even at lower framerates.

If your current CPU allows your games to perform at settings and performance you're comfortable with, I see no reason to upgrade. Plus, you'll have to replace the motherboard too. If your display truly is almost a decade old now, treating yourself to a new FreeSync monitor could be a real treat.

https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/zNq9kT This is what I'd recommend. A good CPU, a lot of RAM (which is very important) and a GPU that will handle basic acceleration tasks. Flip a metaphorical switch and you've got an entry-level gaming PC which only needs a GPU upgrade down the road to be ready for current and future titles. Good power supply, good case, modest motherboard and a good aftermarket cooler to keep the CPU cool and quiet. Edit: Depending on what kinds of projects we're talking about, you might want to throw in a 1TB WD Blue / Black for mass storage.

I would definitely consider a UPS. Not only do they typically offer surge protection for at least one of your devices, they will allow you to save anything necessary before your power is cut. I've heard good things about CyberPower's UPS selection.

Water damage resulting in a shoddy connection sounds to me like you're dealing with corrosion. If that's the case, unless you want to tear the headphones apart and clean them, there's not much you can do about it.

I wasn't sure if I should post this in its own thread or in the Linus Memes thread, so I'm chancing it here. This is awesome, and you guys should give it a shot as well and see what you come up with. http://vmashup.com/Hbc2IQv4

Beyond web browsing and basic video playback, don't expect anything out of integrated graphics.

If you ran (or run) DDU and it does not clean up the folder, then it's entirely safe to delete. There shouldn't be any problems as it stands, but make sure you completely wipe your system of your AMD drivers.

That might be why. Integrated graphics, while a light year ahead of what they sued to be many years ago, are still not very good. Traditionally, it's not expected to play at more than 30fps on 1080p medium in most titles, and Source games are no expensive. If a 1080Ti is too expensive, then pick up a more modest card. Your CPU and GPU cost more than a GTX 1080. Running a system like that with integrated graphics is just an awful idea.

The PSU you've chosen is overkill. Not in wattage, so much as price to performance. You can get an EVGA Supernova 650W for cheaper. Aside from that, the build looks fine to me. My personal preference is to go Western Digital for hard drives (have had bad luck with Seagate) but that's more a personal opinion than anything else. I'd say go for it, unless you want a faster GPU!

The difference is the size... A larger fan can spin at a lower RPM and move the same (if not more) amount of air. The difference between 120mm and 140mm is negligible at best though, so it's typically recommended to go with whatever you can get more of. (Three 120s is better than two 140s, generally speaking.)

If you're truly interested in... "upgrading" your computer, the best CPUs right now for single-core performance (where you'll see the best performance in games) would be the i7-7700k and the R5 1600 / 1600x. The 7700k will be better than the 1600, but only by a few margins usually not larger than the $150~ price gap. Based on what you expressed, it sounds like the 7700k will be your best friend.

Inside of your motherboard's audio settings (if you're using Realtek drivers as most motherboards do) you should see a setting for separating the front and rear channels. This will separate the front audio jacks from the rear. This should in theory also make your USB audio a separate entity inside of Windows. However, only one device can be the default sound source at any given time, unless specific programs (like Discord, Skype, etc) take control over an audio device.

That sounds to me like the connector itself is damaged. Unless you tear apart the cup and bend the contacts back into place, you're going to struggle with this until you replace them. Furthermore, from what I understand is that if you open up the headphones, the mechanism which holds in the cable may be damaged, and you will no longer be able to plug the headphones in unless you do something kind of sketchy.

You should be able to click on each of those partitions and delete them until only a single partition is left. "Supprimer" should delete the partitions.

Make sure you format the drive first. You should be able to delete all of the partitions on the drive through the drive manager window during installation.

Source: arstechnica SpaceX is claiming these satellites to have latency as low as 25-35ms. If such a thing is possible, this would be incredible, and potentially a huge blow to major ISPs. What do you guys think? Is this the next generation of satellite internet, or just another (soon to be failed) attempt by a company at developing a new internet infrastructure? (a-la Google Fiber) Either way, color me excited to see what happens with this. For context, 2019 is only two years away, and SpaceX is planning to launch 4,425 satellites over the span of five years, or roughly 900 satellites per year.

This is correct. I have applied the registry fix and will report back my findings. I still hear a low beep tone during boot (that isn't there when the camera is unplugged) but it is going through to Windows properly now. I will let you know soon if the issue persists. I actually applied the same registry hack in all of my previous installs, but I'm wondering if the Creators update reset it.

Yes, the cameras all work fine on his, and he's running Windows 7. I have done a fresh install to a formatted SSD multiple times. I have never upgraded from a previous install. The cable and jack or USB ports cannot be the issue because I have tried three different cameras and two different motherboards, as well as every port on the boards and my case. My latest install used the .iso that contained the Creators update, so my copy should be 100% up to date, and Windows reports no updates right now.

Is that your only takeaway? The Logitech C615 works fine, and every other one of my USB devices also work just fine. (That's my keyboard, mouse, wireless adapter, eHDD, microphone and gamepad wireless receiver.) Furthermore, if I uninstall the device entirely, shut my computer down and turn it on, it will boot fine, as I said in my post. Even if I don't power cycle.