Jump to content

Augurian

Member
  • Posts

    78
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Awards

This user doesn't have any awards

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    The Netherlands

System

  • CPU
    AMD Ryzen 5 5600X
  • Motherboard
    Gigabyte B550I Aorus Pro AX
  • RAM
    Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 32GB
  • GPU
    Gigabyte RX 6700 XT Gaming OC
  • Case
    Cooler Master NR200P
  • Storage
    Western Digital SN550 Blue 1TB
  • PSU
    Cooler Master V650 SFX Gold
  • Display(s)
    2x Iiyama XU2492HSU
  • Cooling
    Noctua NH-U9S chromax.black
  • Keyboard
    Ducky Zero DK2108 (Cherry Red)
  • Mouse
    SteelSeries Rival 100
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro 64bit

Recent Profile Visitors

690 profile views

Augurian's Achievements

  1. Augurian

    LMG Christmas Album

    Still the only christmas album I play each year...
  2. Yeah, you need separate audio devices to get what you want to work. A USB headset would work for instance, because Windows recognises those as an individual audio device. But all 3.5mm options which you plug into your motherboard (front or back doesn't matter) uses the same device. If you do have a separate device for them, getting the individual programs to play on those devices isn't that hard... Just go into the Sound settings in Settings (System > Sound), at the bottom of the page you can select the "App volume device preferences". In that menu a list of active applications will show and you can assign an audio device (and general audio level) to each individual program.
  3. As has been said; the Windows 10 license is bound to your device, so you can always just re-install Windows if you need to. The easiest way to get a genuine copy of Windows for re-installing is probably to just use the Media Creation Tool from Microsofts own website: https://www.microsoft.com/en-gb/software-download/windows10 It'll let you create a Windows 10 boot device, such as a USB drive, to use for re-installing.
  4. Recently got a nice speedboost from 100/100 to 200/200 because the ISP was making changes in the lower tiers... so mid (like mine) to higher ones got bumped as well. ^__^ This is a €70,- fibre line, but it also includes voip & digital tv.
  5. Agreed! If it's a partspicker list (or any build from this century), it's a youngster by my reckoning! I did have a C64, but I wouldn't count it as a "build". I took the first machine I put together for that. It was an awesome time though... Had the cassette version and it took ages to load programs. And the frustration when you had a loading error! I used my parents' cassette deck to rewind the tapes, as it was no fun having to use a pen/pencil to rewind them. I'm so happy we have SSDs now! ^__^
  6. Yeah, you're right! The 2400G over the 2200G isn't worth the price/performance bump. But I'd still pick an A320 because the OP never expressed wanting to overclock anyway. It's only a slight price difference for the B350 version of this motherboard though, so that may not matter too much anyway. And yeah, faster ram is beneficial, but it's also about 10 bucks more expensive. With a build like this though, that's not really the problem anyway. The main thing is the discrete graphics difference between the one I posted first and the second one. I'd never call the first one a gaming system... I've updated a few things and it's still under $400. The main problem with calling it a budget gaming system is still the lack of a graphics card though. I'd still opt for an SSD over an HDD though, because of the general more responsive feel of the system. CPU: AMD - Ryzen 3 2200G 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($94.99 @ SuperBiiz) Motherboard: MSI - B350M PRO-VD PLUS Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($54.99 @ B&H) Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($90.98 @ Newegg) Storage: Crucial - BX300 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($42.99 @ Amazon) Case: Corsair - Carbide Series 88R MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($44.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Corsair - CX (2017) 450W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($39.99 @ Amazon) Total: $368.93 By adding an RX 560 (too keep with the AMD theme), you'd go just over $500. It could be a reasonable upgrade after saving up a bit and would enable the system to actually play games at reasonable settings. Depending on the games of course. Video Card: MSI - Radeon RX 560 - 1024 4GB AERO ITX Video Card ($143.98 @ Newegg) Total: $512.91 I'd still say that 400 is an unreasonable budget to call any system a gaming system... With how prices of ram and video cards, and Windows, I'd say that you'll have to look at about 600+. More, about 750-ish, if you need a screen and peripherals as well.
  7. Or due to Intel having the better budget options at the moment, you could get an 8th gen. i3 (4 core) and build up from there. For 1080p gaming, you'd be fine with the following then: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel - Core i3-8100 3.6GHz Quad-Core Processor ($118.69 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: MSI - B360M PRO-VD Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($56.98 @ Newegg) Memory: Crucial - 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($79.89 @ OutletPC) Storage: Crucial - BX300 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($42.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: MSI - GeForce GTX 1050 2GB Video Card ($134.99 @ B&H) Case: Corsair - Carbide Series 88R MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($35.00 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Corsair - CX (2017) 450W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($23.98 @ Newegg) Total: $492.52 Don't expect miracles here, but it'll run fine. And you could dial back on details and stuff to get higher frame rates. And if you're starving for storage space, just get a cheap 1TB HDD as extra storage. But the SSD as a bootdrive will work wonders when compared to just an HDD. I'm even somehow tempted to advise getting an Optane drive for this use case... o_O
  8. Something like this? PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2400G 3.6GHz Quad-Core Processor ($155.41 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: ASRock - A320M Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($49.99 @ Newegg) Memory: Crucial - 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($79.89 @ OutletPC) Storage: Seagate - Barracuda 500GB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($26.95 @ Newegg Marketplace) Case: Corsair - Carbide Series 88R MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($35.00 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Corsair - CX (2017) 450W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($23.98 @ Newegg) Total: $371.22 It's far from ideal though. I'd advise to save up a bit and get a decent budget. For a pre-built system, just go to Dell or something like that and look at their cheapest options. That's at about the top of your budget.
  9. First build? That's quite some time ago... See if I remember correctly: AMD 486 DX4 @ 120MHz 24MB RAM S3 Trio 64V+ (1MB RAM) Voodoo (1st version) - with external looping from the 2D to 3D card before going to the monitor Gravis Ultrasound - no clue with version... but I fondly remember the red pcb! Pff... no clue what motherboard I had. I do remember buying a 2,5GB Quantum Bigfoot HDD. That was an awesome amount of space to run DOS 6.22 & Win95 on! Back in the day I'd know the IRQs of my devices because I had to enter those values manually in games. And I'd know what just about every file on the HDD was for. Now I have no clue any more. But I don't really mind as well, as long as it all runs smoothly.
  10. Because it's only useful in specific scenarios. Why throw more money at it when you don't use it most of the time anyway? I'd rather advise to spend the money you save on the extra gpu to pick a g-sync monitor to get the best experience out of that 1080ti. They cost a lot, but if you're going premium, that will get you the smoother experience. Go 1440p if you want to keep the fps up high, or choose a 4k screen if you don't "need" it that high. Depends on what you play really... 3k is a fine budget for a high-end system including peripherals.
  11. I'd recommend against choosing for SLI. Although there's benefits in it, there are fewer and fewer scenarios where you'll get good use out of it. Especially with the premium you pay for it.
  12. Yeah... If you're going for a game machine, the 8700K will be your better option. Granted, it may make less of a difference if you combine the 1080ti with a higher res (1440p or 4K) display, but currently games still benefit most from stronger single thread performance. And for that Intel is, at the moment, the better option.
  13. Nope, you don't. But with large hardware changes you might have to reactivate it because it thinks that you've installed it on a different computer.
  14. I've been running Win10 Pro on my personal desktop since the technical previews... It had some issues with drivers back then (no surprise really), but since the spring I've had no (major) issues with drivers or running games. So far I'm very pleased with what it has become so I wholeheartedly recommend you to upgrade! It might take some getting used to the layout and settings changes, but it's not more of a change from when I went from XP to 7 for instance. I say just do it! If you don't like it, you can roll back the upgrade (but only within one month after the upgrade).
  15. My first PC? Pff... It was a 486 DX4 at 120 MHz. I don't quite know for sure how much RAM it had, I vaguely recall it being 16 or 24MB (eventually). It had a Gravis Ultrasound soundcard, which had awesome quality! It started out with just an S3 Trio 64v+ card for graphics, but I later added a Voodoo (1) card which actually had an external passthrough. I bought a huge 250MB disk for it, which would surely last forever as it was more storage than I'd ever need right? And I was glad to have a four speed CD drive, as Encarta would load so much faster... Although I mostly ignored the new Windows 95 stuff as DOS was so much more easy and faster to control. Ahh... those were the days! (Am I showing age? )
×