Ice_cold_wolf

Greetings All! I am looking at getting a new PSU; just got a new 780 and it seems to be tripping my 7 year old Ultra X3 1000w. Not surprised. As the title suggests I am considering either the Antec HCP-1000 or the Seasonic Platinum 1000, however my ears are open to suggestions. The features I particularly am looking for is fully modular design, 1000w, and preferably 80plus platinum rating. I am well aware my system does not require 1000w PSU, however I use my computer for testing of client hardware so I need to overbuy on this. I sometimes will have to test a 3 or 4 way SLI/Crossfire config other times run an integrated GPU. I really need the flexibility of something that will work no matter what load I put on it. I lean towards the Seasonic Platinum at the moment solely due to the single rail versus multiple rail design. I have no experience with multi-rail systems however so perhaps someone more experienced might shed some light on possible advantages to consider. Any suggestions, experience, or other information you can provide will be greatly appreciated, I want to make a purchase fairly soon but at the same time, would like my PSU to maybe pull another 7+ years if it can :D Dem other specs in case they matter. Core i7 950 1TB Seagate Barracuda HDD + OCZ Agility 4 SSD Ultra M923 case (Full tower ATX case) And I can't imagine any other spec that would matter in a PSU sense. Thanks for all the future help!

I was looking at some waterblocks for the 780 I plan to buy in a month or two and I came across this Koolance one and in the description it mentions that you should NOT use the nickel plated water block in combination with unplated copper or unplated brass. I checked out other blocks and none of the other ones give this warning and I had never heard of any issues with it. Hoping someone might be able to shed some light on the following: What specifically are the dangers of mixing copper with nickel in a loop? How much of a concern is this really? And finally if it is a big deal, is it worthwhile to change out all my copper components(essentially switch to a plated or aluminum system) or just get a different none plated waterblock? Thanks for any info you can provide. For reference I do use VS.C Feser coolant which is suppose to help a bit with the corrosion. I do have aluminum and unplated copper in my system now which I believe has corrosion issues but have yet to experience anything noticeable yet (not that I am cracking open my rad or waterblock).

The number of wireless connections is limited and that limit is based on your access points capability and the DHCP pool. Wired is limited by pretty much the DHCP pool and how many switches you feel like buying. most consumer stuff is around the 32 range for the wireless. Some lowend routers have relatively low limits (like 50 addresses for my old linksys device from 10 years ago). As rufee said, 15 devices connected wirelessly is a good rule of thumb. You can run extenders and other wireless technologies to spread the workload to multiple access points to allow more connections on consumer hardware. I know of a couple hotels in my area that use a number of access points to provide coverage to their entire property without having to purchase expensive hardware.. enough rambling, to address your question, you shouldn't be overheating and I would suspect other things to be the issue first. However, assuming you are comfortable making the assumption your equipment is overheating, especially your modem, you should replace them. if your modem is overheating and dropping connection it needs to be either cooled or replaced. you could mod and old heatsink onto the cpu if you wanted :P for the router/WAP its the same thing, I would guess heat isn't the culprit here but if it WAS, then replacing it would be the right step unless you want to mod or just try and get it in a cooler environment if you feel it isn't the device malfunctioning. networking equipment like you have shouldn't put off much heat at all. warm maybe even "hot" to the touch is within operating spec. realistically, I would look at your channel and use wifi analyzer or something like that to see if you are getting much interferance from other people, check the location of stuff in your house like microwaves and such to see if they might be causing enough interferance to drop connections. if you find only certain places in the house (even if they are closer to the WAP) are dropping I'd first try changing the channel and after that an extender may help provide a more stable wireless network.

I don't like using integrated "all-in-one" solutions for my networks so as for the modem/router device, I don't think i'd be much help. However, in teh wireless department, if you don't mind one tinsy cable and having your wireless access point being seperate, I highly reccomend purchasing a ubiquiti device. Anything in that link should fit into a budget for your entire system being ~$100. They are a little finicky to setup at first if you don't know what you are doing. I spent several hours diagnosing why some devices couldn't connect all to descover my Nanostation2 defaults to using 40MHz bandwidth when most devices can only handle 20MHz. And I had been staring at the setting the whole time. The AirRouter device could be used in combination with a standard Modem and provide all the functionality you need but I know this isn't quite what your looking for.

I'm in the US and use RapidSSL for my work. They are a bit more expensive @ $49USD /year for non-wildcard. Was recommended to us by our webhost and we get a discount as long as we go through them. If you are using a company for hosting you may check and see if they offer any deals like that.

Check this link: http://www.minecraftwiki.net/wiki/Tutorials/Setting_up_a_server#Linux_instructions That tutorial does assume some linux knowledge. if you can't get it figured out, I have experience running minecraft servers off linux for a couple years now, so shoot me a PM or something. On headless machines its a little more difficult but still do-able using screen or sending things into the background and managing everything from ingame. I personally add a & to the end of my script to launch the server, which sends it to the background and make sure I am in the ops file, then I can run any commands I would run in the console while i'm actually logged in to the game. Good luck!

Oh, I totally forgot users and groups in the "Linux basics" section. Damnit. Also, what do you mean with streaming server? Which protocol are you after? I just mount the samba shares on my Windows desktop and stream all my movies and music of of it as if it were a local hard drive. I'll be editing this guide soon, when I find the time ;) Thanks for your feedback! I don't know if this is what Huntsman was asking for, but I would be interested in setting up some kind of streaming system that can interact with say blu-ray players, smart phones, or tablets that may struggle to connect to a standard windows share. Any knowledge on setting something like this up on linux? Tutorial appreciated :D

1. I don't need a new phone, so i'm just gonna put in 1 entry. GL to all!

reh-tweeeeted. @ice_cold_wolf. Please, pl0x, pleeeeeeese. :D GL everyone

If you don't have time for the motorcycle and don't really use it, you will probably get more mileage from the 4k monitor. in the future when your child gets a tad older you can get a newer and sexier bike to cruise around on. So my votes on 4k.

Contest! YAY! :P Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/icecoldwolf/posts/235265636618717 Twitters: https://twitter.com/Ice_cold_wolf/status/315175800318078977 Google+: https://plus.google.com/113575784223758115954/posts/84Qk9CHQANp Best of luck to all!