KnightSirius

What this hub? That's a vital piece of information. Try plugging the unit directly into the motherboard header if that fixes it then the issue is with the hub.

You mentioned you tried "switching cables around" you mean flipping the orientation of them? Because I know that can cause issues with it. If you tried all that you said that's quite confusing ... You did some good troubleshooting, I think you're at the point you should contact their support, could be defective (strange defect though if it is LOL). Unless somebody else can chime in that has fixed an issue like this, I think you should start the process of contacting them, or try exchanging it for a new one with the retailer is an option as well. Edit: One last thing you could try is switching the USB header it's plugged into on the motherboard if you have another available...

It won't be any worse than just playing on a 1080p screen of the same size.

You're right, I didn't realize it was a newer i3 either. I assumed it was an older model. It will not be held back at all by this (in most cases), so GTX 1060 is definitely the way to go in this case.

I agree with @rip a GTX 950 will have a bit of trouble at 1080p especially paired with an i3. You have two options really, you can get a GTX 1060 tier of card, or you can upgrade your CPU to an i5-6500 for example. Upgrading your CPU won't yield as much performance gains as upgrading you card; However upgrading your card to a 1060 for example would bottleneck severely with that i3. Also if you have any extra cash after doing this I'd recommend trying to get an SSD maybe on Boxing day or something? That will make your PC feel snappier overall (outside of games). Edit: The i3 actually won't hold back a GTX 1060 at all (in most cases) so a GPU upgrade would be the best option.

I think you're fine for the time being honestly the 2500K is still pretty powerful all things considered. You'll definitely have to upgrade in the next year or two but I think you can get by with it for awhile longer! Definitely Reapply TIM if you feel you need it, though that won't affect performance if that's what you're getting at... (Unless your thermal throttling which you would have noticed a long time ago). What will affect performance however is overclocking the chip a bit. You're running it at stock and you have an unlocked K version! You can definitely get a bit of free performance out of it with even a small overclock. Even if you're feeling a bit intimidated about doing it there are many guides that can walk you through the process! Quick Google search for a guide gave me this which looks pretty promising!

I don't see what you guys are getting at. He can simply attach the powered PWM splitter I suggested it to his CPU_FAN header and control his whole system through that which is very simple and cleaner solution, it's limited to PWM and won't work with voltage IIRC but it doesn't matter as every CPU_FAN header is PWM by standard. Also why was it suggested to get internal USB headers? (No context given to that). As for Y-Splitters for Chassis fan headers, there is no advantage to that unless it's a MUST to control the fans individually, but then you're limited to 50% speed anyways, I don't see a point. Best option is to simply get either the Swiftech/Phobya PWM splitter as I recommended originally and control them all at once. This provides the ability to control your whole system together through PWM as well as the ability to run them at full speed which a Y-Splitter won't allow.

With a bit of research I found that the later versions of the 9800 GTX+ only needed 1 x 6-Pin. So that is normal and it isn't an issue at all. Which I figured was the case since the start. As for it not displaying and it spinning at full speed I'd first go through some basic troubleshooting to see if it's not the card itself. 1. Try Reseating the card (older cards often don't seat well and sometimes takes a bit of effort) 2. Try with a single RAM stick (if this doesn't work try the other ones individually as well, in turn) 3. Also Make sure your RAM sticks are seated properly, and as well that they are in the correct slots. 4. Double check all your cables, Motherboard power? CPU Power? GPU Power? Make sure they are all seated well also. If none of that works, try removing everything you can from the system, 1 stick of ram, and the card, no drives, peripherals or anything (even KB/M) just to see if it boots. If it boots then start adding things back, KB/M first so you can use the system, another stick of ram, a drive etc... If all this fails then there is likely an issue with the card, if you have another system you can test it in that is a good way to test it.

Well it's not damaged it was just built with only a single 6-Pin (For small cases/constricted builds), What brand and model is the card?

Well if you like it that much with the bleeding issues I'm sure you'll enjoy the PB328Q just as much. Hopefully more even! (Assuming that one is issue free! haha). Both are solid choices for a monitor, gaming or otherwise. I agree with not having the justification to spend a couple hundred more for G-Sync and a higher refresh rate I'm in the same boat, been wanting to upgrade my main screen but it's so hard to especially when I have other things I know I need to upgrade first. They are AMAZING features to have but they won't make or break your experience in the end. Awesome choice of chair btw I have a DXRacer myself and love it!

Well honestly the PB278Q is not a bad monitor it is quite good! You just got unlucky, You could get it exchanged and you'll be quite happy with it but there are other options too as mentioned. You could do the PB279Q which is the 4K variant of what you just got. Also there is the PG278Q which I think you mentioned above its the older model of newer PG279Q (just improvements). The PB series is for colour accuracy so they are 100% adobe sRGB rated. The PG series is for Gaming so it's IPS with good colour (generally) but supports higher refresh rates and G-Sync. As for Acer they are a bit more expensive it seems for the same product more or less. You just gotta decide whether what is more important to you, Gaming performance or Colour Accuracy. I still think you'll be more than satisfied with the same one (just exchanging it) especially coming from a TV!

Sadly without being able to actually test the components by essentially putting a PC together and trying it you can't tell. You'll need to acquire some RAM and a Powersupply to test if they are working! Unless there is physical damage to the chip or board (which since you're asking this question you likely wouldn't be able to tell by that method) and in most cases you can't anyways. You can also, if you have a friend that would be willing to help you test these out (if they have extra components for example) then that's an option!

If it only has 1 you might have a non-reference card, or unlikely so but it could have been damaged. Take a picture of the card to show us, and we'll be able to determine if there is an issue or not!

No problem, also seeing as you are in the UK as you mentioned this is an alternative option from Phobya (Same idea as the Swiftech one)

I'd say in the meantime while you wait for a splitter to have the INTAKE running. You'll have fresh air coming in, and some incidental exhaust from positive air pressure. As for a splitter I'd recommend this Swiftech one. This will allow you to control all the fans at once through PWM, they can also all run at full speed.

Glad to hear it!

Then this could very well be your problem. It's a very obscure fix too it took me a couple weeks to finally fix it. Hope it works for you cause those are a PITA to figure out.

The card in there could very likely be PCI and not PCIe which is what your new motherboard supports and doesn't have any of the legacy slots. If you can get the model number or at least take a picture we can try to verify that for you!

There are a LOT of things that can cause this. I had this issue myself at one point and for me it was a memory leak in the "Windows Network Data Usage Monitoring Driver". In my case it was because I have an onboard Qualcomm Killer Ethernet and it wasn't playing nice with the windows drivers. If you have Killer Ethernet on your motherboard you can try this fix; If not then I'm not sure where to start with this as it's VERY difficult to troubleshoot. Navigate to "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CONTROLSet001\Services\Ndu\" in regedit. At that location you need to change the value of "Start" to 4. Reboot and if that was the issue you shouldn't have your RAM being eaten up anymore!

Looks good more or less. If you can spare 40$ you can upgrade to the GTX 1060 which is a pretty big jump in power. Also I agree with @Energycore That Rosewill looks a bit sketchy. Cheap PSUs are hard to judge for quality so sticking to common ones in that price bracket is the safest bet.

This PC is very hard to shave down right now, the parts you have are all with a specific purpose in mind. I'm assuming you want to prioritize CPU power over GPU. You could opt for a GTX 1060 instead of the 1070 that's a couple bucks there. I'd also recommend getting a i7 6800K instead of the Xeon. Even though it has 2 more cores, I have a feeling it will be weaker when it comes to rendering (Check into that for the program(s) you use). So what are your priorities? What MUST you have? Is 16GB of RAM okay for the time being? Anything in particular you need on a motherboard? etc... Once we know this stuff we can whittle it down to your price point hopefully! What I can say for sure though is for 80$ that's a crappy keyboard you have listed. I'd swap that out for a simple mechanical keyboard (no lights or gaming stuff just a simple typing KB) for example this CoolerMaster Quick Fire for the same price. Unless you NEED wireless, but there are still better wireless options in that price point.

Hmm well only slow mode working sets off a couple red flags for me. That shouldn't happen... especially if we set it to normal then cleared CMOS. I'd say it comes down to an issue with the motherboard or CPU. If you can test the CPU with another board that would solve where the issue originates. Worst case he can continue to use his PC in slow mode for the time being.... It won't be any different to him as it seems he's been running in slow mode since it was built! Unless that problem only occurred recently... which would mean he was playing in his PC when he wasn't supposed to perhaps (dunno if he's a techie or not). That slow mode switch would have to intentionally be flipped; He could have been trying to fix an issue before coming to you and damaged something in the process, didn't mention it and just hoped you could fix it... Most people would be embarrassed to tell you they screwed up (understandably) and would rather you go on a wild goose chase trying to figure out what the issue is than admit their screw up! Just a thought. Try to get it running with everything connected as it should be in slow mode. Maybe fiddle around swapping between the two modes. At this point I'd be looking at a replacement board to test it with. Something cheap in case the CPU is actually the issue. If it's the motherboard that is the issue you may be able to RMA as well and get a replacement for that board (even if you won't use it it's good to stockpile parts for testing if something similar happens again.)

Hm, You've tried all sticks of RAM individually? Motherboard standoffs are installed? Any other obvious things you may have missed in setup, everything is plugged in, monitor is on those sort of things. I know I've had issues before only to realize I hadn't plugged something obvious in. I'm honestly running out of ideas short of testing with spare parts ... You could try testing the system outside the case on a piece of cardboard or any non-conductive surface. This would eliminate the case as a variable if that's causing a short or something (I doubt it but never know). If you're gonna do that though, before you do try flipping that slow mode switch back to enabled (UP) and see if it displays. If it only displays in slow mode there is something strange going on here, could be a faulty CPU that was never caught because the mobo was perhaps shipped with slow mode enabled... or the Mobo may be faulty as well... very difficult to tell between those two...

You had it, it's the battery remove that for 5 seconds or so and pop it back in!

I hear ya, Go figure. But hey we fixed it-- Well crap. Reset CMOS and see if it kicks in. If not go through each piece 1 at a time again and see if we can get it back.