KnightSirius

I'd suggest try streaming to YouTube to see if the same issues arise, as they don't limit you as far as I know (at least they didn't with me). That'll tell you if it's a configuration thing or a Twitch thing at the very least. Also I don't recommend exceeding Twitch's maximum bitrate which is 6000. Don't think they necessarily care you're going over their limit anymore but they used to when it was capped at 3500. That said 3500 is pretty standard for 720p/60 at least for the streamers I watch, but higher is useful if you are streaming at say 1080p/60 and beyond. Forget if they restrict higher resolution to affliate/partners but just keep that in mind regardless. Your settings as you have them currently seem solid though and are pretty much what I myself have set up from when I was optimizing my own stream setup. Just make sure your profile setting is set to high as @WereCatf mentioned as this is most optimal from the testing I've seen in the past. So I'd definitely test it out on YouTube and see where the issue lies.

What GPU did you have prior to this? integrated graphics or another card? Did you follow the suggested upgrade steps, by running DDU (Display Driver Uninstaller) before installing the new card? Have you tried re-seating the GPU? (Unplugging it and plugging it back into the PCIe slot) Have you tried removing the GPU and booting as you would before the upgrade? System specs? They are helpful to know, PSU included. I'm unsure of your skill level, and don't know what you have/have not tried so far. So give us some details. The beeping every 20 seconds means something is definitely wrong. First step if you didn't run DDU is make sure the PC still works without the GPU, get into windows run that and shut down cleanly before attempting to install the GPU again. GPU seems to be displaying fine just before it boots into windows so GPU seems to be working fine for the moment. Also sidenote put pictures in a spoiler tag in the future, just keeps the thread clean.

Glad I was of help then, and yes that MSI monitor is a good option as well but lacked FreeSync so I didn't include it. It's an SVA panel which is a middle ground between TN and IPS, and has good colour coverage as well. However, it's only 8 bit rather than the 8 bit + FRC Acer I recommended above so it's a bit of downgrade in that regard.

Not on Floatplane, yet. Once it gets it's more finalized look up and running that Luke has been teasing on the WAN show for the past few weeks I'll probably join. I'll support anything that has even a remote chance of hurting or disrupting YouTube.

My 2 cents is if you're going to be doing a triple monitor configuration stick to the same resolution be that 4K or 1440p. I have a single 4K and 2 1080 panels and even if they were 1440s it'd still be annoying. 1) Dragging between windows has a lot of 'dead' area where you can't move between displays because of the different resolutions. 2) Windows scaling for programs sucks in general, especially when you're mixing resolutions. Some programs will look great on the 4K center display and you move them over and the scaling breaks making it look huge or small etc... usually looks blurry regardless of the program. So again, I'd recommend sticking with a single resolution for all 3. In which case getting 4K at high refresh with G-sync, IPS, good colour etc... is going to be absurdly expensive ($1000 - $2000 per monitor) so I'd probably skip looking at 4K, because for the price of one monitor you can get all 3 1440p monitors. But I included suggestions for 4K regardless. 4K Acer Predator X27 bmpiphzx - ~$1800 USD Asus ROG Swift PG27UQ - ~$1800 USD Acer Nitro XV273K - ~$1000 USD (Cheapest option, but lacks HDR support like the others have) 1440p Non-Curved Acer XB271HU - (~$650 USD) - IPS + 10 Bit (8 + FRC) + 100% sRGB / 1440p / 165Hz @ 4ms / G-SyncAsus PG278QR - (~$560 USD) - TN + 8 Bit + 100% sRGB / 1440p / 165Hz @ 1ms / G-SyncDell S2716DGR - (~$500 USD) - TN + 8 Bit + 99% sRGB / 1440p / 144Hz @ 1ms / G-Sync 1440p Curved Asus ROG Swift PG27VQ - (~$740 USD) - TN + 8 Bit + 95% sRGB / 1440p / 165Hz @ 1ms / G-Sync The non-curved Acer is the best option of the bunch in terms of display quality with it's IPS and 10bit (8bit + FRC) panel. But otherwise they are all very similar high quality displays. As for curved displays there are not many that fit your requirements other than this Asus as most curved displays are larger than 27" and/or lack G-Sync. The curved display market focuses mainly on ultrawides and curved displays in general are quite expensive for what you're getting compared to flat panels.

Yikes, I always assume if it's not stated that the OP is in the US. I'm in Canada too and I always end up looking at Amazon.ca at first and pricing is brutal as always. It's ridiculously difficult to get much of anything in the budget range while still being really worth your money here and it sucks. Your best bet is to wait for a good price drop. Make sure to use the Keepa extension for amazon it'll show you price history so you can judge if prices are likely to drop on Amazon. Also check massdrop weekly to see if anything pops up in the audiophile section for speakers. You may also want to look at used passive speakers locally (kijiji etc...) there is a lot of selection and some good deals to be had if you know what you're looking for but you will also need some sort of amp unit which is just as hard to get a decent one for a good price as it is powered speakers. Crappy situation all around.

Well first off, you seem to be looking at a wide variety of speakers. You have some powered speakers with their own built-in interface options while you have some like the JBL that will require an external interface to control sources and volume. I'll assume that you don't have an external interface you'll be using with these in which case scratch the JBLs off your list because an interface will run you over budget quickly for anything decent, not to mention the price for those are per speaker ($180 each!). As for the rest of the options, the Edifier set ($150 USD) is probably fine. It's a very entry level set of speakers so they won't blow your mind but they'll probably be good to most folks. Definitely better than built-in TV speakers and cheap soundbars. However, If you're more discerning of ear then you'll want to put a bit more money down. The Fluance set ($200 USD) will be a huge step up from the Edifiers and they also have bluetooth support which you mentioned is something you're interested in. The Swan D1010-IV's I haven't heard of before but reviews seem to place them as a good budget option. However, I can't seem to find them sold anywhere. They may have been discontinued as they are not even available on Swan's site. You give up the bluetooth functionality and some nice to have features like a remote which comes with both the Edifier and Fluance sets. Same goes for the Micca's which are well priced and seems to be better than the Swan's according to this review at least. But again no bluetooth or remote functionality. My personal recommendation is forego the Swan, Micca and Edifier sets and get the Fluance. They're well reviewed, quite new compared to the other models, will have noticeably better sound (previous retail price was $300) and have the functionality you want while being reasonably close to your price range. My philosophy is stretch yourself a little further on purchases like this so you get the best you can afford now and you don't end up regretting it later thinking "if only I had spent another $25, $30, $40... I could have had xxx". But don't just take my word for it, do some more of your own research. I'm not well versed in budget audio equipment but googling "'best powered bookshelf speakers under $200" yields decent results that at least show you products you may not have considered. As well search for reviews that'll help you compare your options like "Fluance A40i's vs xxx model" see if there is better option available for the same price.

Well if you like the look of the 280X I say go for it, it's not a bad case just not the best Corsair has made. However, if cooling is a serious concern of yours I'd suggest looking at the Fractal Design Meshify C line it's similar-ish in style and has great cooling. There is also the Lian Li O11 which GamersNexus says is pretty much just a better version of the 280X.

Except that isn't an ultra wide monitor. That would be because it is a regular 16:9 display not an ultra wide.

All options for this are expensive, this luxury monitor territory. Also 144Hz in this category doesn't exist as far as I know. Highest available is 120hz. 99% chance you can't tell the difference though. (Although the LG seems to support 144Hz but only on the FreeSync model) LG 34GK950G-B - 1440p / 120Hz / IPS 8 Bit + FRC / G-Sync / 135% sRGB (98% DCI-P3) Acer Predator X34 - 1440p / 120Hz / IPS 8 Bit + FRC / G-Sync / 100% sRGB Dell Alienware 1900R - 1440p / 120Hz / IPS 8 Bit / G-Sync / 99% sRGB Asus ROG Swift PG348Q - 1440p / 100Hz / IPS 8 Bit + FRC / G-Sync / 100% sRGB The LG is the best of the bunch. It can do 120Hz refresh rate if overclocked and has a better panel in terms of colour accuracy than the rest by a sizeable amount.

Ryzen is a great choice for streaming so good choice there. I'd stick with the 16GB of RAM, it's pretty cheap and you mention you want to upgrade it little by little later so RAM will be something you'll come back to for sure so might as well just get it out of the way now and save the money you'd lose buying less. Also having the ability to do local recordings in addition to streaming is good to have regardless. As for the PSU that Glacier unit is getting into pretty low quality territory. Ranks in tier E on the PSU Tier List 3.0 which is very very low quality I'd suggest putting a little more money into the PSU (~70ish range should net something in tier B or C) but otherwise it's solid.

I've recently built a system in a Meshify C with an NH-D15, it's tight but it definitely fits. Only potential issue is when placing the glass panel on and tightening the screws the glass does press up against the fan frames a little bit. Depends how far back you can place the fans with your motherboard factored in.

My go-to steps for cleaning up a small system drive are the following: Windows built-in disk cleanup utility is a fast way to get rid of general windows junk, update files etc... (right click on the drive -> properties -> disk cleanup) Check mark what you want to get rid of and run it, then run it again and hit "Clean up system files" this time and let that run. CCleaner can clean up cache of browsers and other programs quickly, although you can also do this from within the browser itself. WinDirStat as mentioned above gives you a nice hierarchy view of where space is being taken up, so you can figure out where you can free up more space. Lastly if you're really tight on space and it's your C drive you are talking about. Provided you have enough ram (16GB+) you can either outright disable or limit the virtual memory. (Advanced system settings -> Performance -> Advanced -> Virtual Memory -> click 'Change' and you can either set 'no paging file' but this can cause issues with error reporting if windows shuts down unexpectedly. 1GB (1024MB) is a safe value I use in cases like this, set both the min/max values to that. Often times the virtual memory is set to 4GB - 8GB even 16GB I've seen in some cases which is quite excessive.

Not really much you can do unless you have spare screws around from previous builds that you could swap out for them. Sanity check you are using the proper included screws if there are similarly sized ones. Even if the manual says to use a labelled screw it could be they got put in the wrong bag, never know.

Interesting update, doesn't sound like there are any actual errors showing up the event viewer. Good to know you don't have any GPU programs running or an AV that is causing trouble, that rules out quite a bit... As for CS:GO that is a very odd behaviour, it seems more like rendering errors due to software rather than a hardware issue causing bad rendering because it's so specific. Like the knife being rendered properly with that block showing up cutting it in half. Does this occur in all games or just CS:GO? I'm honestly at a loss of what to recommend at this point. A complete re-install of windows would be useful to see if the OS is just broken (can't tell you the number of times an issue occurs because windows is borked) and beyond that if you can get your hands on another GPU to test with and see if the problem occurs still. It COULD be a faulty card, but there was a lot of other groundwork to be done before we could reasonably approach that conclusion. My next step would be to re-install windows (assuming you didn't already re-install windows upon getting the PC). Download the Windows 10 Installation Media Tool or get an ISO for your preferred build (Enterprise is nice to have) and create a bootable usb drive using the installation tool or Rufus if you go the ISO route (using any flash drive >8GB you have laying around). Update windows to the latest (1809 as of now + small updates) and then install the latest nvidia drivers and see how it goes. If that fails as well, then I'd definitely be expecting a faulty card, in which case see if you can get your hands on another card for testing. If you have another PC in the house you can borrow one from to test, or from a friend etc... See if it works with that and if it does then the card is faulty. After which you'll have to figure out if you can RMA or not, it may still be within warranty depending on when it was purchased. Reaching out the original owner for a receipt if they still have a copy would increase your chances greatly of the RMA being accepted. Hopefully a re-install of windows fixes it!

Run CrystalDiskInfo for the S.M.A.R.T. details that'll usually tell you if something is wrong and more specifically what is wrong. Seems very likely the drive is dying though if it's significantly slower. Good news is you can get a replacement through WD as it still under warranty (2 years for Blues).

No worries, quoting and using the '@' system both work. Alright good work, sucks that wasn't it. I did a bit more poking around and found this steam post, the problem seemed to have disappeared for the OP when he got a new monitor. So few things, the obvious one first make sure the display cable is plugged into the GPU, this is a pretty common mistake. If that is the way it has been the entire time then If you have different cables around I'd suggest trying those. IE. instead of using the DVI out on the card try using the DP or HDMI out, see if that changes anything. A potentially useful source of information may be event viewer, open a game and reproduce the error. Then open event viewer and go to Windows Logs -> System, sort by date and time and check for errors relating to the graphics/nvidia/video etc... screenshot any you find and post them here for us. They would be useful in searches. Also just some extra info, do you have any GPU monitoring programs installed like Afterburner? Also do you have any anti-virus that could be interfering with application access? You can try disabling it if you have one running.

Try reseating the card, (Removing it and simply putting it right back in the same slot). Also try different PCIe slots see if anything changes. Also this post here has a very similar scenario, he changed his RAM configuration and it seemed to fix it. Perhaps give that a try.

Simply dismissing the issue and suggesting to just buy another card is pretty damn unhelpful. Considering the rest of the specs of this PC I highly doubt it's a 'fake' GPU. It's probably windows/driver related. Also the P9X79 Deluxe board is a very highly reputable one, it's definitely not a quality issue... Might wanna do some research before you provide useless conjecture. --- @Dhani My first suggestion to you is run DDU which you've already done. In which case I'd say try reseating the card and/or trying different PCIe slots.

You can not expect a budget solution to not have any drawbacks. That is what high end equipment is for. As for the Modi/Magni, they are recommended so often because at their price point they are pretty much the best you can get. However, there are still drawbacks on those as well. With Schiit it is mainly quality control being the most common complaint. As for the suggestions you've been given the FiiO K3 is a very good DAC/AMP unit when considering their price point. Better in my opinion than the units you mentioned in the original post. Although that doesn't make those units bad, I just have heard little-to-nothing of those units and for that reason I can't really give them the thumbs up. The FiiO K3, SMSL and FX Audio units will be better than your onboard sound especially when you want to drive more powerful headphones.

Yeah I wouldn't recommend the K5 docking version unless you actually had a device you planned to use it with, not sure if it works with non FiiO players either. Seems it may be a better unit overall but for a budget dac/amp I don't see the point in spending more on something that you won't use all the features of and may be replaced later if you upgrade to higher end headphones. Speaking of upgrading your headphones, it'll run the vast majority of headphones well. Even the DT-990 250ohm model people had good experiences with on the older E10K model. However, if you upgrade to some serious high end headphones like HD700s, HD800s, DT 1990s, Beyer T90s etc... then you'll definitely want to upgrade your DAC/AMP to something more substantial to balance things out. You don't want to be running the top of line headphones on a budget DAC/AMP, as it will just smother the headphones true potential.

Huh, somehow I never saw any news on that release. Pretty new though, thanks for pointing that out! @ToflixGamer FiiO K3 (100€)

There aren't too many options in this price bracket but I'd personally recommend the FiiO E10K (80€). The FiiO (imo) pretty much dominates the <100 market, it's well known and tested thus is a safe, quality option and will definitely power the DT990s (even the 250ohm model people have not had issues with) Only thing is it wouldn't work with TVs, if you really need that feature then I'd go with the SMSL unit. Get the FiiO K3 which is a very recently released updated/refined version of the FiiO E10K.

~70c is totally reasonable and is what I'd expect an AIO to run at when under a gaming workload. Not gonna be improving that at all without re-applying TIM or modifying the cooling so you're pretty much SOL. Ghetto rigging some external cooling fans might shave a couple degrees off it but there isn't really a point as it isn't overheating.

Believe you need to familiarize yourself with the differences between magnetic bearings and basic mechanical bearings. They may look similar but they're different. Magnetic bearings support the load using magnetic levitation which has no contact between the moving part whereas a regular bearing does and thus has mechanical wear and higher friction which means more noise, less efficiency and a shorter service life. While this may be a negligible improvement in a non-industrial application like a PC fan it definitely is not Corsair taking advantage of uninformed customers.