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Hello.

the issue im having is mainly while playing games (csgo, league, ect) my mouse and keyboard will disconnect randomly for no reason. sometimes it will reconnect itself, sometimes i have to unplug and reconnect them, other times i have to reset the pc, all depending on what usb port i have them plugged into. ive already had plenty of advice on how to fix this. so far nothing has worked. ive reinstalled win10, done a bios update. and messed with drivers. i have a Asus p8z68-v motherboard. originally with windows 7, but about 5 months ago i upgraded to windows 10. without issue. the last few weeks however ive been getting this problem.

i can not figure out what is wrong. im starting to think its windows 10 as nothing else has worked. but i dont see why that has only been a problem now and not for the last 5 months.

i was also told to clear my cmos, but i have no idea what that does exactly. so i ignored that for now and tried other things.

 

anyone have any ideas?

also i can seem to downgrade back to windows 7 any more. apparently my key is a windows 10 key now and Microsoft wont let me download the windows 7 iso.

many thanks.

Luke.

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Have you disabled USB selective suspend setting? It is a long shot, as I can't see why a wired USB Keyboard/mouse would have issues.

https://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/windows/hardware/ff540144%28v=vs.85%29.aspx

 

 

CPU: Core i7 4970K | MOBO: Asus Z87 Pro | RAM: 32GBs of G.Skill Ares 1866 | GPU: MSI GAMING X GTX 1070 | STOR: 2 X Crucial BX100 250GB, 2 x WD Blk 1TB (mirror),WD Blk 500GB | CASE: Cooler Master HAF 932 Advanced | PSU: EVGA SUPERNOVA G2 750W | COOL: Cooler Master Hyper T4 | DISP: 21" 1080P POS | KB: MS Keyboard | MAU5: Redragon NEMEANLION | MIC: Snowball Blue | OS: Win 8.1 Pro x64, (Working on Arch for dual boot) |

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1 minute ago, Gikero said:

Have you disabled USB selective suspend setting? It is a long shot, as I can't see why a wired USB Keyboard/mouse would have issues.

https://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/windows/hardware/ff540144%28v=vs.85%29.aspx

 

 

yea i was asked this not to long ago, i had high hopes it would fix the problem but again nothing. :(

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Just now, DaZulu said:

yea i was asked this not to long ago, i had high hopes it would fix the problem but again nothing. :(

You could boot off a live linux disc and see if the issue persists in a different OS environment. Trying to help you rule out potential hardware issues. Browse the internet for a bit, if nothing, you could try doing a fresh install of 7 or 10. (Saw that you stated you did a fresh install of 10. Did you do a actual fresh install or a refresh and/or reset?)

Clearing CMOS is done by disconnecting all power to the system, pulling the coin cell battery off the motherboard, waiting a minute or so and re-installing the battery. Be aware, if you decide to try this, go into the UEFI/BIOS before and take note of your current settings, as they get wiped out. This also resets your internal clock and most internet based applications will not operate properly without a proper date/time. Not a hard thing to do by any means.

CPU: Core i7 4970K | MOBO: Asus Z87 Pro | RAM: 32GBs of G.Skill Ares 1866 | GPU: MSI GAMING X GTX 1070 | STOR: 2 X Crucial BX100 250GB, 2 x WD Blk 1TB (mirror),WD Blk 500GB | CASE: Cooler Master HAF 932 Advanced | PSU: EVGA SUPERNOVA G2 750W | COOL: Cooler Master Hyper T4 | DISP: 21" 1080P POS | KB: MS Keyboard | MAU5: Redragon NEMEANLION | MIC: Snowball Blue | OS: Win 8.1 Pro x64, (Working on Arch for dual boot) |

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3 minutes ago, Gikero said:

You could boot off a live linux disc and see if the issue persists in a different OS environment. Trying to help you rule out potential hardware issues. Browse the internet for a bit, if nothing, you could try doing a fresh install of 7 or 10. (Saw that you stated you did a fresh install of 10. Did you do a actual fresh install or a refresh and/or reset?)

Clearing CMOS is done by disconnecting all power to the system, pulling the coin cell battery off the motherboard, waiting a minute or so and re-installing the battery. Be aware, if you decide to try this, go into the UEFI/BIOS before and take note of your current settings, as they get wiped out. This also resets your internal clock and most internet based applications will not operate properly without a proper date/time. Not a hard thing to do by any means.

the whole linux thing is way! over my head and out my comfort zone. but that said if it becomes a last resort i mite try.

i did a truely fresh windows 10 install. not a reset. i cant do a windows 7 fresh install as microsoft wont let me download the iso. (gona have to torrent it probs.) 

i really dont know anything about clearing the cmos. i have o issue with doing so. just know nothing about it so ive never done it. think that will help? considering ive just updated the bios anyways?

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2 minutes ago, DaZulu said:

the whole linux thing is way! over my head and out my comfort zone. but that said if it becomes a last resort i mite try.

i did a truely fresh windows 10 install. not a reset. i cant do a windows 7 fresh install as microsoft wont let me download the iso. (gona have to torrent it probs.) 

i really dont know anything about clearing the cmos. i have o issue with doing so. just know nothing about it so ive never done it. think that will help? considering ive just updated the bios anyways?

I get being nervous. If you have a spare USB flash drive, or a DVD drive, booting off it temporarily, and running in a "live" mode is very simple. Even if you've never done it before. It doesn't touch your currently installed OS. But, the choice is yours.

I don't personally think a CMOS clear will correct your issue, but I can only go off the information provided. If you go into device manager, do you see anything with a yellow "?" or "!"   ?

CPU: Core i7 4970K | MOBO: Asus Z87 Pro | RAM: 32GBs of G.Skill Ares 1866 | GPU: MSI GAMING X GTX 1070 | STOR: 2 X Crucial BX100 250GB, 2 x WD Blk 1TB (mirror),WD Blk 500GB | CASE: Cooler Master HAF 932 Advanced | PSU: EVGA SUPERNOVA G2 750W | COOL: Cooler Master Hyper T4 | DISP: 21" 1080P POS | KB: MS Keyboard | MAU5: Redragon NEMEANLION | MIC: Snowball Blue | OS: Win 8.1 Pro x64, (Working on Arch for dual boot) |

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2 minutes ago, Gikero said:

I get being nervous. If you have a spare USB flash drive, or a DVD drive, booting off it temporarily, and running in a "live" mode is very simple. Even if you've never done it before. It doesn't touch your currently installed OS. But, the choice is yours.

I don't personally think a CMOS clear will correct your issue, but I can only go off the information provided. If you go into device manager, do you see anything with a yellow "?" or "!"   ?

no ive been into device manager a few times looking for anything. it all seems ok, now and then the mouse divers and usb drivers vanish, but that is the problems im trying to solve.

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Yeah, they'll say that. They're reading from a script. That is what you'll get when you use free tech support lines.

If it is a driver compatibility issue then going to Win7 could solve. Personally, I think that is unlikely. It is worth a try. If it does work, I'd recommend making an image of your hard drive with Windows 7, all your updates and drivers. Then you could upgrade to 10, if the issue starts again, simply go back to the previously created image.

AOMEI Backupper and AOMEI OneKey Recovery are great, free tools (paid options, but backupper backs up for free) for making backup images or recovery images. Feel free to ask questions.

CPU: Core i7 4970K | MOBO: Asus Z87 Pro | RAM: 32GBs of G.Skill Ares 1866 | GPU: MSI GAMING X GTX 1070 | STOR: 2 X Crucial BX100 250GB, 2 x WD Blk 1TB (mirror),WD Blk 500GB | CASE: Cooler Master HAF 932 Advanced | PSU: EVGA SUPERNOVA G2 750W | COOL: Cooler Master Hyper T4 | DISP: 21" 1080P POS | KB: MS Keyboard | MAU5: Redragon NEMEANLION | MIC: Snowball Blue | OS: Win 8.1 Pro x64, (Working on Arch for dual boot) |

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1 minute ago, Gikero said:

Yeah, they'll say that. They're reading from a script. That is what you'll get when you use free tech support lines.

If it is a driver compatibility issue then going to Win7 could solve. Personally, I think that is unlikely. It is worth a try. If it does work, I'd recommend making an image of your hard drive with Windows 7, all your updates and drivers. Then you could upgrade to 10, if the issue starts again, simply go back to the previously created image.

AOMEI Backupper and AOMEI OneKey Recovery are great, free tools (paid options, but backupper backs up for free) for making backup images or recovery images. Feel free to ask questions.

ok thanks for you help. i will try a fresh win7 install see if that solve the problem. if not ill move onto the next then the next. and the next! untill finally im able to use the mouse for more then 1min... :D

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Have you tried every USB port even the case ports ?

 

Also have you tried a different keyboard and mouse maybe try a wireless keyboard/mouse 

Corsair 750D Airflow Edition Case | Intel Core i7 5820K @ 4.4Ghz | Corsair 32GB (2x16GB) DDR4 RAM | 2 X 8TB Seagate HDD | Corsair HX850i 850W PSU | Crucial MX200 500GB SSD |  MSI X99A SLI Plus   Corsair Hydro Series H80i GT Liquid CPU CoolerAsus Essence STX II Sound Card |  Logitech MX Master Wireless Mouse | Corsair Gaming K95 RGB LED Mechanical Gaming Keyboard | NZXT Sentry Mix 2 Fan Controller | Windows 10 Insider Preview x64

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2 minutes ago, Liquid said:

Have you tried every USB port even the case ports ?

 

Also have you tried a different keyboard and mouse maybe try a wireless keyboard/mouse 

yea, depending on the port i use determines how the mouse and keyboard disconnect. its strange sometimes it will reconnect itself quickly in one port. but in another port it mite take a computer reset to get them working again. and no ive not tried another keyboard or mouse, ive only got these in the house atm. and im kidna sure its not an issue with them. they work fine on my laptop for example.

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3 minutes ago, DaZulu said:

yea, depending on the port i use determines how the mouse and keyboard disconnect. its strange sometimes it will reconnect itself quickly in one port. but in another port it mite take a computer reset to get them working again. and no ive not tried another keyboard or mouse, ive only got these in the house atm. and im kidna sure its not an issue with them. they work fine on my laptop for example.

Ah ok yeah that is strange try Win 7 like you and Gikero said might be win 10 driver incompatibility 

Corsair 750D Airflow Edition Case | Intel Core i7 5820K @ 4.4Ghz | Corsair 32GB (2x16GB) DDR4 RAM | 2 X 8TB Seagate HDD | Corsair HX850i 850W PSU | Crucial MX200 500GB SSD |  MSI X99A SLI Plus   Corsair Hydro Series H80i GT Liquid CPU CoolerAsus Essence STX II Sound Card |  Logitech MX Master Wireless Mouse | Corsair Gaming K95 RGB LED Mechanical Gaming Keyboard | NZXT Sentry Mix 2 Fan Controller | Windows 10 Insider Preview x64

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just to update.

i installed windows 7 still had the same problem and on windows 7 i couldn't download any windows updates, no idea why so i gave up and went back to windows 10.

so far ive tried.

  1. bios update
  2. going back to windows 7 (fresh install)
  3. fresh installing win10
  4. updating drivers multiple times
  5. plenty of other small things eg, disabling usb selective suspend settings and more.

so far nothing has fixed the problem. ive noticed it nearly only happens while im playing games. for what ever reason. i honestly cant think of anything else. would love the person who solves this for life.

could it be as simple as the keyboard and mouse both half broke at the same'ish time? seem unlikely but im stuck so guessing.

 

is there possibly a diagnostic tool i could use to help to find the problem? and of course someone that knows how to read said tool?

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ive also figured out.

i have 8 usb ports on my pc. 6 of are ubs 2 i assume run on the same chip. 2 are usb 3 if i have the mouse and keyboard plugged in the usb 2 they will disconnect after about 10mins. and i have to restart the pc to get them working again. if i have the mouse and keyboard in the usb 3 slots, the keyboard works fine! but unfortunately the mouse does not. also ive tried having the keyboard in the usb 3 and mouse in usb 2 again the keyboard works fine. but the mouse will disconnect and i have to either restart the pc or move it to a usb 3 slot. if i do that it will work but disconnect every few mins. then i have to unplug and replug it to get it to reconnect.

as im sure you can imagine this is cancer. its basically impossible to play games. and makes other stuff annoying as hell.

it also disconnects far more if im playing games then if not. could it be that while playing games the computer needs more power there for its not supplying enough for the usb? 

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probs last update. dunno if this will help anyone else. but i pluged the mouse and keyboard int he 2 front usb 2.0 port and after i full game of league it didnt disconnect either. so im hopeful this has solved the problem but it doesn't tell me what was wrong to start with.

but its a nice temp fix for now. hopefully if anyone else has this problem they can get some info here. who knows!

thanks for the help i did get. especially Gikero ty bro.

 

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That says might be the back USB ports on the mobo if your frount usb ports are working fine as they will be hooked up to the internal USB header on the mobo with different voltage as a typical USB 3.0 port will draw just under 1V wouldn't think the PSU is at fault here ... i think the fault is with your Motherboard back I/O USB ports... 

Corsair 750D Airflow Edition Case | Intel Core i7 5820K @ 4.4Ghz | Corsair 32GB (2x16GB) DDR4 RAM | 2 X 8TB Seagate HDD | Corsair HX850i 850W PSU | Crucial MX200 500GB SSD |  MSI X99A SLI Plus   Corsair Hydro Series H80i GT Liquid CPU CoolerAsus Essence STX II Sound Card |  Logitech MX Master Wireless Mouse | Corsair Gaming K95 RGB LED Mechanical Gaming Keyboard | NZXT Sentry Mix 2 Fan Controller | Windows 10 Insider Preview x64

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1 hour ago, Liquid said:

That says might be the back USB ports on the mobo if your frount usb ports are working fine as they will be hooked up to the internal USB header on the mobo with different voltage as a typical USB 3.0 port will draw just under 1V wouldn't think the PSU is at fault here ... i think the fault is with your Motherboard back I/O USB ports... 

yea, i new it was either the motherboard or the psu at this point. but i dont have any spare to actually test and solve the mystery! lol

for now im ok just using the front usb ports. but i will look at getting a new motherboard its old so i cant see it costing much to replace. in case anyone was wondering its a asus p8z68-v and the psu is a xfx pro750w 80+bronze. so either of them are super expensive. 

do would thing a standalone usb hub would also work? i hear you can get them with there own power supplys? (if thats the problem) 
thanks for the reply x

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lordy... its started it with the front usb ports aswell. started out working fine now disconnecting.

edit. i cleared the cmos again. and how the rules have changed! the keyboard no longer disconnects in the usb 3 port. and now the mouse will disconnect then reconnect after a second or 2 in any port. progress?? :P surely the keyboard draws more power then the mouse? yet it works and the mouse wont. so maybe not a psu problem and like liquid said the board itself is dodgy? 

i think at this point ive tried everything i can. and its got to be a hardware problem. unfortunately i dont have spare hardware laying about that is compatible so i dont know exactly what i need to replace? any advice?

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update!

i bought a £5 generic mouse now all is fine... somehow... i know 0 sense is made. the original mouse works on any other machine fine. but on this one it refuses! also plenty of other stuff doent make sense. but there we go. guess ill buy a new gaming mouse sometime.

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