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Hello, so, windows on my wifes laptop crashed and now it is looping in the blue screen registry error screen. The windows repair utility didn't pop up, so I tried the windows install/repair from usb. I tried everything from windows self repair to the system recovery and restore, but it didn't help or did anything at all. I tried the command prompt disk repair commands from this vid (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ODt6w3LUqY&list=PLnTOtUDZtxGysQgPzYbjdt7m6UucbBVCZ&index=15) but nothing worked. I tried install a fresh windows from the usb, but I cannot format or delete partions - error codes 0x80042428 and 0x80070017, so I can't even reinstall windows. I also tried access the drive via external usb system Fedora 39. The drive appears normal and is readable, can access and open windows files. From there I tried the disk utility and format the disk from there, but there is also some problem (error wiping device: failed to wipe signatures on the device '/dev/nvme0n1p3' (udisks-error-quark, 0) I don't know what to do. It is intel nvme m.2 Intel ssdpekkw256g7 The laptop is Acer nitro 5 an515-51-7103 Thanks for any help!
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- win10
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Hi, My computer will not boot into anything, other than Win10 safe mode on its boot drive. I cannot perform a clean install as every attempt to boot into an install USB causes a BSOD. I have read the rules for posting about BSOD related issues, however I cannot perform any of the steps required as I cannot boot into any working version of windows (including installation media). Unfortunately this means I cannot provide any dumps, I know this makes troubleshooting much more difficult. Find a description of my system followed by a brief explanation of the previous system configuration, and then an explanation of the testing and diagnosis I have done so far. I am now out of ideas and don’t know what to do next. System Details I have a i5 9600k, ASUS PRIME 390Z-P, 630w PSU and 32GB (4x8GB) of Corsair Vengeance memory. I have a variety of drives types (HDD, SSD, NVME) and all different sizes. The main and target drive for OS installation is a Samsung 990 Pro 2TB. Previous Configuration I was running my boot drive as Windows 10 Pro on a Samsung 980 Pro 1TB. One day I came home from work and the CPU was pinned at 100%. I did some investigating which resulted in turning off hyper-v as the fix, however I continued to see my CPU pinned at 100% and then suddenly a couple of weeks later this behaviour subsided (it did not completely disappear, it became intermittent). A few weeks later, I migrated my boot drive to the current 990 Pro and then started having boot issues. Originally, it would boot after a couple of tries. At this time I wasn’t using it often and I hadn’t noticed it had restarted and had stayed on a BSOD since. (It should be noted the BSOD error message is different every time) Testing and diagnosis Booting into safe mode from the 990 Pro works, both with networking and with command prompt. Sfc, bcd and other common command line tools report no errors with the OS, boot drive or other configuration. Booting into the Win10 boot drive, Win10 USB installer, Win11 USB installer, WinPE USB all fail each time with a BSOD (random / new error code each time). I have attempted to boot after the following: I have removed all drives from the system, the GPU, and all other peripherals. I have removed all but one memory stick and rotated which motherboard slot it is placed in. I have tried every combination of secure boot, fast boot and CSM for each boot attempt too. I have also completed a memory test (DOS style blue ish screen) with WinPE and the Win10 USB, which reports no errors with any of the 4 memory sticks (all tested individually) To be thorough, I used numerous different USB drives to attempt to boot, to eliminate this as a factor, with no changes to boot success. The BIOS has the latest update from ASUS, and has also been reset to factory defaults. I have left the computer several times boot looping, each time it may fail slightly earlier or later, and each time with a different error code. What to do? To me the next logical step would be to attempt to eliminate the PSU, motherboard, CPU (in that order). However I do not have spares for these components that I can drop in, and I would like to avoid buying new components “just to see”. I don’t believe I can conclude the CPU is dead, as it boots into safe mode just fine. I can even perform relatively heavy tasks like transcoding with ffmpeg without stability issues. I would be truly grateful if anyone has some insight into any other troubleshooting tips or suggestions. My data is backed up so I am open to wiping / deleting / resetting anything (although not sure what this could apply to as it still BSODs with no drives!)
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So my pc is randomly crashing, even while doing nothing on desktop. it crashes like 50 times while installing win 11. i made a clean install with win 10 afterwards, no problem, but the random crashes stay. so today i found out that i cant play html5 videos, pc instantly crashes , no bsod, just if someone restarts it but with a black screen. im using AMD 7950x3d and the integrated GPU. all drivers are up to date, bios is up to date. it not the ram, i tried to run with 1 stick of 2 and turned xmp off. cpu is not over clocked, its on 65w mode and tdp limited to 70c° also when watching youtube videos, half of the screen has a different color. pic 1 pic 2 no idea how to fix that
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So I am trying to pair my PC and phone via Bluetooth, but it connects for about half a second then disconnects and keeps on doing that. Connecting Bluetooth Speakers, Headphone, mouse or keyboard works fine. I tried going to device manager and in "Bluetooth Properties". Then to "Power Management" tab and Unchecking "Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power", but even that did not solve the issue. Recently, just to try the Windows 11, I installed it in one SSD (on the same PC), and in that OS the Bluetooth paired successfully. Please help if anyone has any idea on what the issue is and what am I doing wrong? How do I fix it? [MediaTek Bluetooth Driver - 1.930.0.257] System CPU AMD RYZEN 5 5600X Motherboard Asus Prime B550m-A Wifi II RAM 2 x 16GB DDR4 3200 MHZ XPG D30 GPU Gigabyte Gtx 1650 Oc Storage Kingston 512GB KC3000 Nvme M.2 PSU Gigabyte P650B 80 Plus Bronze Operating System Microsoft Windows 10 Pro 10.0.19045 Build 19045
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Hi everyone, hope you are well. Just the day before yesterday I upgraded from a 3700x to a 7800x3d. Asus tuf b650m- wifi New 2x16 corsair dominator 4800 Cl 36 New Samsung 970evo 2tb Fresh windows 10 install. I kept my old SSD running win 11, but after I upgrade I could not boot to it anymore, it gives failed and asks me rerty or try another SO. Funny thing, I have another ssd with an even older win 10 installation and it boots fine, I imaged that it is something related to tpm key that causes me to no be able to boot the older SO, but it is just a guess. Returning to the problem at hand, I installed the Chipset driver from AMD, weirdly the installation for the adrenalin failed, I downloaded 3 times I always gave error on install. Also installed steam, opera GX, notepad++, VMware player. But it seams that everything was fine for a couple of hours when I good a blue screen, memory management the first one. The Pc restarted and came back apparently normal. Started doing my business on opera watching some YouTube, but frequently the page crashes and I have to reload. Looking in the event loger it says the fault module is ntdll.dll Using "normally" again, a second blue screen happened, this time it was pfn list currupt. The Pc reboot again. I downloaded all windows update in the first boot after the upgrade and installation of windows 10. Using again, the ntdll.dll error kept happening and I kept needing to reload the page, but nothing to critical. Then a third blue screen happened, irlq not less or equal. This time the Pc got stuck after 100% and didn't self reboot. I was already worried and checked for any update that was missing on windows update, there were two but nothing major. Using it again with the crash on opera sometimes happening, a fourth blue screen happened, pool curruption in file area. This blue screen were not one after the another, I was able to use for maybe one hour and sometimes even more. During the night yesterday I kept watching a YouTube video for quite some time and nothing happend, I ended up getting sleepy, put it to shut down and went to up, waking up today I noticed that the event viewed prevented the shutdown, but no blue screen happened. I then restarted and started using, installed Bloons TD 6 and started playing while there was a video on the background, suddenly the game freezes and crashes, looking at the event viewer was another dll issue. I partition my 2tb Samsung into two disks (maybe could be something related?) The fresh windows install was on the new Samsung nvme. Right now I don't have prints, but I can get them latter if necessary. I will try to disable expo and see if something happens. But I am wondering if this is a win 10 issue and should I updated to 11. Is this a driver issue, CPU or memory? Have any of you gone through the same problem? I use the Pc to work, so I am worried about this instability. Thank you so much and any more info I can give, please ask me. Have a good day
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Before i had ubuntu on my hdd and win 10 on ssd later i upgraded (i just deleted the partition of ubuntu (it was dumb)) to win 10 on ssd and win 11 on hdd I didnt use win 10 for a while but i was fed up with slow win11 on hdd. So in the bios i moved the m.2 drive up (the m.2 drive is just blank, no bootloaders i guess?) then it booted into win 11, when i removed hdd from the boot it just said no os found. i think my bootloader is on hdd. I still have the problem of grub being still on there.
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I set a folder as custom toolbar on taskbar but everytime I shutdow/restart, next time when I open window it gone. I have searched for help before but all answers isn't actual solution for this.
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Is there any good app can replace explorer.exe? No GUI is fine and better for me. I have only 4GB RAM so I want to reduce RAM usage as much as possible (even explorer.exe only use about 3~7% RAM in my laptop)
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Hey i am going to create a windows 10 Operating System called Windows 10 Belami Edition but i am gonna be Releasing it on June 6th and i needed help with os making thing can anyone help me out feel free to do so as well okay thanks Commander Aiden2023 Gakuen City Z State 24 Youtuber/CEO
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My 2013 laptop, maybe thermal throtteling but is on 79C while gaming, when i start the laptop and launch any game quickly ex, roblox on a game that its unplayable, becomes playable with 30-40 fps avg than 10-20fps, Specs:Intel Pentium B960 2 Cores,2 Threads 2.20Ghz max Nvidia GT630M 1G vram DRR3 6G 1600mhz Every tweak for performance done bios is latest version so as the latest nvidia drives for the gpu available, tem Nvidia control panel to best settings in advanved 3D Idk but at Like the graphics options setting Power Saver/High performance settings its still on HD integrated one Lowest settings on every game CPU 76-79 C 80-100% usage depends on game while gaming GPU 78-81 C 10-100% depends Idk but after some minutes it starts to lag as i said in first sentence
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First of all I would like to clarify that I have checked other topics about flickering and non were exactly the same as mine and the given solutions either didn't help my case or were obviously not applicable in my situation. With that out of the way back to the issue at hand. My monitor- HP 22x has a weird flickering issue which is present when browsing the internet and sometimes on my desktop itself, but not when playing games (doesn't seem like the game or it's settings matter), or using programs like Blender. The flickering itself is rather odd as its not the entire screen but only a horizontal line near the top that flashes white or black. Sometimes the lines doesn't even go across the entire horizontal axis. Scrolling or staying static on a web page doesn't change or much or how often it flickers. In general it is quite rare, but sometimes it happens multiple times one after another. I have set my monitor at 144Hz (in the settings it says 144,01Hz) and I have it connect to my GPU (GTX 1660 Super) via HDMI cable. The resolution is 1080p if that matters. Freesync is on in the OSD, the monitor has been updated with the latest drivers from the manufacturer, same goes for the GPU. I have tried changing the refresh rate, updating everything and messing around with the OSD settings (in the end had to do a factory reset) and non of this helps! I tried messing around with Chrome settings too- turning on and off both smooth scrolling and hardware acceleration- again neither helped. Also G-Sync option is missing from my control panel but from I have read on this forum I need a display port cable to be using G-Sync with a compatible monitor, which this one claims to be, however I do not want to buy a new game (which is oddly expensive there I live) if that won't help. (Both the computer and monitor are about a week old. All new parts and freshly installed Win10.) Thank you for reading through!
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boot HP BW019NT Windows 10 USB Boot Endless Loop or Static Screen
HerosHyper posted a topic in Windows
Thanks for the answers I solved the problem myself Solution: 20H2 v2 was just too new for the laptop so installing 1909 fixed it. ------------------------ Hello. I want to install windows 10 20h2 v2 x64 on the laptop hp bw019nt which haves amd a9 9420. I downloaded original Win10 20H2 v2 x64 turkish ISO from microsoft and used rufus to make my toshiba 16gb usb a bootable usb. I plugged in the usb and it booted uefi or smth idk. after that the hp logo came and stayed for 10 seconds then it restarted and did the same over again for 3 times. after this a static screen came while in the hp logo and didnt go away/nothing happened. What do i need to do? I installed 8.1 and 7 before but it wasnt supported so i want to install windows 10. What did i do wrong? BIOS settings? Wrong rufus settings? Or too new windows version which i think this might be the problem. For example, on the support/driver page of this laptop, on the os selector: there is only windows 10 1903 and 1909. so maybe installing 1909 instead of 20h2 would be better? what do yall think? please help. -
(Solved Update 2/28/2021 1:10AM Solution: Try everything bellow, and most off all wait 2 minutes after your display turns off for your computer to sleep, despite windows saying 1 minute.) I'm in the same boat, First I had to figure out how to keep my computer from waking up moments after manually telling it to sleep, now the problem is getting it to sleep on its own. @Mira Yurizaki "open a command line prompt as an administrator and issue the following command: powercfg -requests This should tell you who's keeping the computer awake" So I tried powercfg -requests command and my result is bellow: C:\WINDOWS\system32>powercfg -requests DISPLAY: None. SYSTEM: None. AWAYMODE: None. EXECUTION: None. PERFBOOST: None. ACTIVELOCKSCREEN: None. I'd see something under system, but there is nothing preventing the system from entering sleep mode. Note: my most recent change, I went into Bios and enabled S4-S5, I could before and still can manually by clicking start then click sleep and put my computer to sleep where everything appears to shutoff and can be woken up using keyboard or mouse. but I'm still facing my computer not sleeping after a set time of inactivity of say one minute on its own. Also I have used this command as well (sfc /scannow) and nothing is wrong with my PC nothing to fix. I've also changed around additional advanced power settings such as: 1. Allow hibernate sleep - disable 2. allow wake timers - disable 3. USB selective suspend setting - disable 4. when sharing media - allow computer to sleep After using the command cfg -energy command bellow is my report I don't fully understand it so I hope someone here can help. This is driving me crazy, I want to save energy so don't keep going over on my electric cap they have on my apartment, and that cap is tight.
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- windows 10
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So i got 2 HDD installed on my setup (I know im still using hdd please dont judge me) One is showing as Hard disk drive But the other one is Thin provisioned space did i do something wrong here??
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Okay so, I've got 16GB DDR3 clocked at 1333mhz. (MOBO(ms-7728 ver-2) doesnt support 1600mhz) i have a gtx 660 2GB GDDR5 clocked at 1201mhz core and 3150mhz memory (small overclock) and an i7-2600 without overclock. My problem is, whenever i play gta 5, or hitman 2, or just do something ram consuming. my system closes the applications when i hit 10.5GB's usage, thats not even 70% of the physical memory and this is especially weird since my laptop with 4GB DDR3, celeron n3060 and hd graphics 400 (not 4000 i actually mean 400) can go to 95% usage before doing that. They both dont have any virtual memory because i hate it for personal reasons. Can anyone tell me how i can fix this? because not being able to use 30% of my physical memory (about 4.3GBs) is kinda frustrating when multitasking Thanks in advance!
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My Laptop freezes up while on Zoom, in nearly every meeting, at least once every 30minutes. I realise it could be all drivers and or bios settings or which app uses which gpu etc, but I have no idea where to start Ryzen 7 5800H cpu AMD radeon iGPU NVidia RTX3070 dGPU ASUS TUF Gaming A15 - Jan 2021 64GB RAM 3TB NVME storage Titan Army 34" UHD 144hz 8k USB-C cable to DP UHD 144hz monitor, previously I was using 4k hdmi-hdmi cable. There was a slight difference in the effect that these cables had. The HDMI caused the secondary screen to just shutdown. the new 8k cable does not do that but now the laptop screen sometimes stops for a long period. often I have to shut down Zoom. My machine was telling me applications were running on the iGPU, and it was only games that were running on the dGPU. Seemingly my machine is designed to switch between them. How is this meant to work is it worth the power saving to run the iGPU. normally on my desktop I turn it off. I want to use the Laptop mainly for Software Dev, and biz apps. But regularly I use it to game. Gaming it seems to go OK. But the regular pattern of Zoom calls hanging is still consistently there. I do not know where to start, my retailer said I needed a good USB-C cable but that did not work. I am not a power user but I know enough to be dangerous.
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I was wondering if it would be possible to build a REAL fast 64gb usb 3.1 flash drive with 4 of theses 16gb hbm2 modules wich run at 4 gb/s each for a total of 16gb/s wich would be totally unneccesary. I couldnt find any documentation for any sort of hbm2 controller to usb aswell as no way to buy single hbm2 modules from samsung or anywhere else. If anyone finds out either, please hmu.
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Hello, I recently bought a Redgear Cosmo 7.1 headset. It connects through USB and shows up as a USB PnP Audio device. I have two problems with this thing : 1. It shows up in the sounds manager as a speaker, I've been ignoring that till now but if you can help fix it then it *might* solve the other problem too (I'm guessing) 2. The "scale" of the volume is very huge. I'm referring to the windows volume slider that goes from 0-100 (2 divisions each time for some reason). On it, when it's at "2" then it's already above my comfortable hearing volume. For reference the earlier 3.5mm headphones (which used to get recognized as headphones) were usually at "20" volume level for a comfortable hearing level. The high volume of the "2" has been bugging me now, and has started to feel kinda harsh. "1" is too low. There is no hardware slider on the headset, the buttons on that change the windows volume. There are no specific drivers on the product website. What I wish to do is somehow "zoom-in" to the windows volume "0-10" and make it the new "0-100" , so that I'd have more precise control over the volume level and won't have to deal with the brain killing volume levels over "10" that I have never even attempted to listen to out of pure fear. Is there any way I can possibly do that? Please help PS - I have an Acer Nitro 5 with 15-8300H, 16gb RAM, GTX 1050Ti. The headset comes with a mic, if any of these specs matter.
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Hello all, just looking to buy a cheap windows key and I found a good one on G2A for $25. I want to buy it but I only have my debit card and no paypal. I know that G2A is RELATIVELY safe however, I don't want to risk it without confirmation. If anyone knows if it is safe to use card on that site that would be amazing.
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Hello Forum, I have now finally decided to try and get some help from y'all. So here's my Problem in a nutshell: Every time I go across a Window on my desktop etc my mouse kinda gets stuck for a bit. Sometimes my audio also spazims out, sometimes not. It also doesn't always stay on the edge, sometimes it goes a little further. This also applies other 2D elements like Buttons, Icons or similar. So basically everything interactive and different from something else. It for example doesn't happen inside a single Word Page or similar. Or for that matte while gaming, then everything is fine. Additionally my Keyboard constantly disconnects and reconnects in desktop for example when im searching for a program or on youtube. (Or while typing this post it happened like 5 times..) All this leads me to believe that it's somewhat software/windows related since it started happening after a windows update. - Ive rolled back to that update all the time, but now its like 2 years old and last time I tried it said "no more support". So Im stuck on this version now. - I've also done an in-place reinstall of windows, but that hasn't helped either. - I've reinstalled and DDUed my graphics driver losts of time now, but that didn't help either - I've also swapped around my GPUs, also didn't help - I swapped out my CPU I somewhat broke 2 years ago (only 3 of 8 memory channels were detected anymore), but it also didn't help (Although I can finally run it at 3.8GHz again lol) - I have searched around the internet and tried various things microsoft reps and community members have suggested, all to no avail. Here are the important specs: - i7 6800k - ASUS Rampage V Edition 10 - 2x GTX 1080ti - 32GB of Corsair Vengeance - 512GB Samsung 960 Pro - 1TB Samsung 850 Pro - 3TB WD Blue - 12TB Ironwolf Pro - Newest Windows 10 Version - Newest NVIDIA Driver - Newest BIOS - Lots of Software I can list if someone has a vague idea.. Maybe someone knows of a possible fix, or has even experienced this his/herself. I really dont want to format my C Drive and fresh install Windows, especiall since the inplace reinstall didn't do anything.. But if thats the only option so be it, this behaviour is REALLY annoying. But I hope there is some other fix.. I want to thank y'all already! Nick
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I just used a few streaming services for the first time in a long long time on my pc and realized that some aren't pushing 1080p to chrome (namely netflix and prime video). Now i'm wondering if I should use the Windows 10 apps instead. I wanted to get an opinion on what people mostly use for their own set ups.
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Hello, I've seem to have run into an issue; I've decided to use windows 10 ameliorated on my laptop because I prefer it over the original and am trying to install nvidia drivers on it Trying to use the DCH drivers won't install nvidia control panel (which I'll call NCP for simplicity) because DCH tries to download it from the microsoft app store However, Win10ame removes the ms app store So I tried the Standard drivers instead. However, as noted here, Standard drivers won't install on a laptop running win10ame Is there a solo install of NCP, not tied to a driver or MS app store? or perhaps another solution that will work (without switching to normal Windows 10)? if any additional information is needed, simply ask and I'll answer thank you all very much in advance
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hii i have a question,myb its dumb but i need to ask. I have app Blitz.gg i use it for lol to import runes automaticaly to not forget or to save time. And in this app there are ads that pop out and they are not problem visiualy,just that i read that ads are hitting cpu to 100% cus theyre random. And i have problems with that also i think,but i found this https://github.com/lulzsun/blitz-app-adblock Idk whats github and all stuff there,i just few times got some configs for something,and this now. There is that app (cmd) that run and do something to stop ads,but its outdated.its for version 14 and now its 16 So,Is there any way to do it manualy,same way as this publisher?
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Hi guys, a few months back I watched a video by Linus which I don't remember in which he used an app to stop all the win 10 useless apps like telemetry and others which eats yours CPU performance. Can anyone link me to that video or better link me to the app he used for that i really need it as i am using 4c CPU and windows 10 application take 10 mins to setup all of its apps. i have win10 on my SSD. Sorry for my bad English BTW not native . So if anyone of you have some info about the topic please share with me. Thanks
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I installed a new Windows 10 installation on my HDD over the older one as that one was corrupted and was causing issues with certain apps. After the installation, the whole windows was laggy even on basic tasks. I used to get stable 60+ fps on ultra settings on God of War, now it stutters a lot and fps drops below 10. I checked performance and saw that CPU and GPU usages are below I updated the whole windows, waited for it to install new drivers. Still it is laggy and i am not sure what to do. in the task manager i see System , windows module installer worker, COM Surrogate, USO core worker services using disk 100 percent.
- 12 replies