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ok so i have a 2u server in my basement. use it for backups since theres like a million drives in it connected in different arrangements - thats another story. over the years torrents have collected, thats how things go. purchase a game, it isnt on steam/psn anymore, well? plus i find it unfair that i have to repurchase a game because its a pc port. take the last of us for example. Through PSN ive purchased it for my ps3/ps4/ps5, should it be purchased again??? anywho not condoning piracy, just saying. I get DCMA letters about Metal Gear when ive purchased every game at least 3x over, but im in trouble? Even the original metal gear for ps1, geez i purchased the physical CDs so many times over... Lost in oblivion except for the library of the internet! how can i share my junk without having them in utorrent/transmission? The files exist just not the magnets and so on, utorrent is always fired up. There must be a simple way to seed something that matches the checksum, how to do it? thanks peeps!

Hi, Don't know where to start exactly with this topic but yeah lets get started. I'm interested what is the proper way of terminating the shielding of a ethernet run. Let's say we have a 19" rack at location A where we have an incoming SFP cable connected to Aruba 2530-24 switch which is distributing the network over a patch panel to LAN ports for PCS, printers and other stuff and also outgoing trunk CAT7 to another 19"rack at Location B. Rack at Location B again switch then patch panel then cables to ABB ACS6000 drive control cabinets. We are using CAT7 and terminating it to CAT6A female connectors. Then the female connectors are mounted to a DIN rail holder which inside the cabinet and finally from there to ABB switch. My question is where the termination of the shielding should be done and where not?

Hello, I am building a new house and i have a question about the home cinema room. As you can see in the image at point A there will be a desktop and at point B the tv. The root between the two points is about 6 meters. I would like to connect them but I am not sure which is the best way. An HDMI is a solution( 6 meters is ok?), ethernet is another way i suppose with the use of adapters at both ends, thunderbolt maybe... Keep in mind I would prefer a futureproof solution and there is a floor heating installation. Any advice would be much appeciated! Greetings from Greece!

Hi, everyone! I use a PowerLine in my home to connect my laptop via ethernet, so I have better internet, lower ping, etc. I was thinking of buying cat6 cables to replace the ones it came with, which are cat5, not even cat5e. They can still handle a 1Gbps connection because they're really short, but still, I'd prefer having cat6 just to be sure I'll never have a problem with bandwidth. The thing is, I was looking for cables and came across different types, such as UTP (Unshielded Twisted Pair) and FTP (Foiled-screen Twisted Pair), and googled it to find that the UTP have no "insulation" to interference and the FTP ones have. But since I'm using PowerLine, wouldn't it be worthless to get the FTP ones since part of the circuit is through the house's electric wiring, which, I'm pretty sure have a lot of interference? Thanks in advance!

[tl;dr: 1) Small conduit, two flat UTP cables? 2) Difference flat/regular UTP? 3) How does a switch distribute “supplied speed” over connected devices? 4) How many devices on throughput electricity powerline?] Hi everyone! At least 5 years ago a technician informed me that the old coax plug in my wall was in fact not connected to the basement. Last week I got so fed up with the slow speeds of my wireless adapter I took off the front plate off the wall and started looking for the conduit. To my surprise there actually was a coax cable in there! In all my euphoria I had almost ordered some bulk UTP CAT 7 cables until I realised that the conduit is rather small at around 12mm (0.47”). It made me wonder how to optimally wire things up now that I have the chance. A couple of questions: 1) The conduit can not fit two regular UTP cables, but could perhaps fit two flat cables? Has anyone ever done this before? If so, how was your experience? (Example Amazon: click here) 2) Is there a difference in performance between regular and flat UTP cables. In a previous topic I read there wasn’t as cables with the same category label (5E, 6, 6A, 7) should comply with the required speeds. If there really is no difference, then why was the plastic cross needed to avoid cross-talk in regular cables? How do flat cables deal with this? 3) This may be a rather stupid question, but I am not sure how speed distribution between the modem, a external switch and the subsequent connected devices works. Currently I have an all-in-one modem/router with 4 ports from my ISP. I’d like run the new cable to connect my devices in my room two stories up and a powerline two stories up (has to be one the same circuit to be able to have better speeds than the current setup next to the modem, the electric wiring in this house is a mess.) In my mind it would be better to run a cable through the conduit to a new gigabit switch in my room and another cable to the powerline adapter. Is there any merit to this though? Or could I just run one cable to connect the switch and then connect the powerline adapter to the switch without loss of speed? I don’t want the connection between the modem and my room to be or become a bottleneck later on. (How is the cable’s "maximum speed", for CAT6A being Gigabit/sec at 500MHz, distributed over the connected devices on the switch? I have heard about the "lanes on a highway" metaphore, but would like a real life example.) 4) How many devices can you reasonably have running on the throughput electricity plug of a powerline? (Example Amazon: click here) Thanks in advance!

Ik finally ready to setup networking right at new house and realy don't want to use WiFi if possible. I sometimes hate my self because of that Is there any real reason to use FTP CAT6 instead of UTP if network cables will run outside wall and no way near 220 power lines. Only 3-5 meters will be two network cables next to each other. With network cables I will connect 2 computers 1 tv Freenas sever In total about 40-50 meters of cable. And about Modular plugs. I'm only seen cat6 plugs for UTP cables but does it mater?

Hello ppl I'm connecting my laptop to my desktop using this cable which is supposed to transfer files at 100 MB/s when the distance between two hosts is no longer than 100 meters. Both computers are separated by barely 50 cm and the transfer rate I get is only 20 MB/s. Anyone knows how can I rise the transfer speed? THX in advance. The cable specs are the following: Copartner E188601-U (UL) Type CM 26AWG/4PRS UTP Verified CAT.5E Patch Cable to TIA/EIA-568-B.2 LL84201 CSA TYPE CMG FT4

Greetings! I currently own a ASUS VI Hero with an Intel I217v NIC. I've read some topics, forums and articles about how much sensitive this NIC is, because I have some issues with it too. 1., it's not a big deal, but my SSD is faster than my network, so after my programs loaded (almost immediately), my network is still searching for connection, and I could use my PC, but because of the network I have to wait another 4-5 secs before browsing. My old H81M-A never did this, and clean win. reinstall didn't solved it either, so yes, it's NIC/RoG specific issue, appears on 7 and 8.1 too 2., which seems to be a bigger problem: if I select auto or 100Mbps full duplex, I have no problems, but when I switch to gigabit, I have no network at all (which also wasn't problem on H81M-A) So back to the beginning. I read some articles and find out, that this NIC is very sensitive to UTP cables, most of the time that causes these issues on this chip. We have a 200/50 connection, so I don't need better than CAT5e, CAT6 would be an overkill - and don't think that this mobo also wants that either-, and I don't need a cable over 1m (3.2 feet), even its half could be enough. I accept the fact, that I have old UTP cables, don't know how old they are, but 5 years at min., so maybe it's time to get a pair of new ones. And the obvious (thread-opening) question is: Which one? Is there a real difference between a cheap and an expensive one? Yes, the isolation. But anything else? In my country (and my favourite shop) there are the following brands (/w prices): 1. Logilink - 1.5$ 2. Wiretek - 1.5-1.6$ 3. Belkin - 4$ 4. Roline - 4.5$ 5. Equip / Intellinet - 5.5$ 6. Startech - ~10$ I thought that these are made from the same matter, so I don't know if I really should spend 5 times more on a small cable like this, but those topics and articles fickled me more than enough, to come here and ask for your thoughts. The truth is, I don't really trust in a cheap cable like 1.5$, but if it's doing its job, then okay, sure, why not. But if I buy the Belkin, is there any chance that I'm going to make a better choice with it?