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MX anywhere 3 mouse scrolls horizontally(sideways) instead of vertically(up and down). This isn't the horizontal scroll option where you press one of the side buttons and I've tried disabling that option and still scrolling horizontal. Also I'm not holding shift or any other keys. I've tried resetting the mouse to default settings. I've also plugged in another generic mouse into the same computer and it scrolls normally. And I've used the mouse on another computer with a fresh install of windows and it keeps the same strange behavior of scrolling horizontally (sideways). Any suggestions on how to get it to scroll vertical (normal)?

recently after a few min or two my monitor has a flicker of purple dots everywhere and i get a blue screen or just resets and then uses my internal cpu/gpu and i have no idea honestly what to do the 2080ti worked perfectly for 3 months then it happened , ive changed out gpu with a 1080 and it works flawlessly ive taken it to a computer repair but a hour of stress testing has lead it to be fine ive clean updated both BIOS and drivers ive tried to check windows for any errors and non nata specs: 2080TI Intel i7 8700k 16gb ram H310M S2H (rev 1.2) Lexar ssd NM710 2TB Samsung SSD 860 EVO 250gb Toshiba HDWD120 PSU CX750M corsair

Hey guys, OS; windows 11 cpu; 5600x gpu; rtx 3080 My pc is running perfectly at all times however sometimes suddenly I would see a minor stutter while watching a video or playing a game, although it is minor and and rare but the frequency is atleast 1 stutter each day. What can I do to fix this?

SPECS: Ryzen 5 3600 Biostar b450mh Micro ATX v6.3 2 x 8 Gb 3200 Mhz CL16 Team Group 600W Gold Enermax RevolutionDUO (C tier PSU) HP S700 512GB SSD Seagate Barracuda 2 TB 7700 RPM Hey just like the title says I recently bought a new GPU rx 6600 8gb Vram GDDR6 Sapphire Model. I had a GT 1030 before, so It was my first time using an 8-pin power connector. I has a 6+2 pin that I plugged in. It was a prebuilt gaming pc before so I was looking around for the connector when I found that pin, I don’t know for sure if the connector is in the PSU. I did a couple tests without the cable, fans didn’t spin PC was on though.With the cable, the fans would spin but stop and just kept retrying to spin while the whole PC was on. It seems like either a PSU issue or the GPU was bad. I tried replugging the old GT 1030 to see if it would boot, now it would seem it doesn’t boot. I made sure I plugged in everything on the motherboard and back of the motherboard. I’m not sure what happened but after plugging the rx 6600 for the first time, now I get no display with either GPU. Oh yeah I forgot to mention before plugging in the rx 6600. I used a program called DDU, I made sure not to uninstall any AMD folders and checked the box for windows not to install a new graphics. I might just try leaving the RX 6600 running for a while to see if raising the Temp will boot it up. Here’s a picture of the 6+2 Pin, I tried both plugs no boot. I know my case is dusty, and an currently cleaning it out to see if that helps the GPU boot. EDIT: Going to remove CMOS battery for 5min, and try to see if that fixes.

I'm running Windows 11 22H2 (build 22621.1413), although I had this issue on Windows 10 as well. My computer's specs: CPU: R5 3600 MOBO: Asus B450-F Gaming GPU: Asus 2070 Super Strix PSU: Corsair RM 750x RAM: 4x Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 8gb 3600Mhz CL18 Expansion Cards: some generic USB 3.0 card from Amazon I forget the name of, I think it was like suptek or something Specs of the laptop mentioned as a troubleshooting step: Model: Asus Zephyrus G14 (ga401qe) CPU: R7 5800HS GPU: nVidia RTX 3050Ti mobile RAM :16gb Whenever any sound starts or stops, whether that be audio from a program (i.e. the Spotify desktop app, a YouTube video in Firefox), or Windows system sounds (i.e. the noise it makes when you get a UAC prompt) I get this weird brief pop sound. Initially I thought this was my audio interface (Behringer q1204 USB), but I've since tested others - a Behringer q502 USB, FiiO E10K and my motherboard's built in audio, and have had the same issue. I've tried all the USB ports on my motherboard, as well as the USB card mentioned in the specs list. I've also tried connecting the aforementioned USB audio devices to my laptop, but the issue persists there as well. I'd heard that it could possibly be the wiring in my house, but I tried plugging the computer and interface into separate circuits, and even went as far as trying them on both the same and separate circuits at a friend's house, and the issue persisted. It also occurs when my laptop is on battery. In Windows on my desktop, I've tried: - disabling all audio enhancements - disabling all audio devices other than the one I'm currently using - disabling "Allow applications to take exclusive control of this device" - disabling "Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power" on all USB devices where the option exists, and also in the power plan settings - setting the default audio format to "16 bit, 44100 Hz (CD Quality)" for all audio devices - uninstalling my motherboard's Realtek audio driver with DDU - reinstalling Windows The one kind of annoying solution I've found, is that if I leave Spotify playing in the background, but muted in the Spotify app, starting and stopping audio anywhere else doesn't cause the issue. When I pause playback in Spotify with no other audio playing though, even with Spotify's mute button pressed, I get the pop noise. All of the troubleshooting steps above lead me to believe this is an issue with Windows, but I can't seem to fix it. I'm considering switching to Pop!OS (a somewhat ironic name considering the problem) but some of the software I need for school (Autodesk Inventor, the adobe Creative Cloud suite, ETC Eos, etc). don't have Linux versions. It also wouldn't resolve the issue in one of the places where this is most annoying is editing audio in Audition. It's a small thing, but it's been happening for a very long time, and I find it extremely annoying, especially when editing audio or video. Any ideas for how to fix this would be greatly appreciated.

Have had issues since I first put it in a brand new build. It would only work for a day with only a minor tearing issue (as seen in picture) that would sometimes appear. After being on for some time the screen will go dark and the cpu and case fans will start to run at full speed. I tried a different motherboard (same chipset X570) to see if that was the issue but the same thing happened. I DDU the drivers mutiple times and the same issue would happen less then a day. Fresh install of windows only let it work for 2 days instead of 1. No issues in games just will black screen after a random amount of hours. I gave up on it a couple of months ago. I had bought a new GPU and everything works with no problems now but now I want to see if I could get this 1070 to work for a new ITX build before just selling it as broken. I haven't tried opening it up since I didn't want to make things worse and I don't know what is wrong with it. I have no idea what the problem could be so any advice is appreciated. PC Specs: Motherboard: Gigabyte X570 AORUS Elite Wifi (Also tried with ASUS Prime X570-P) CPU: Ryzen 3600 RAM: G.Skill Trident Z Neo 16gb 3600MHz

DRAM speeds and timing are my absolute nemesis. I think I also lucked out by having a board that doesn't make things easy. I got my old RAM kit to work at above the 2133 speed that the UEFI defaults to, but it was only 3000 Mhz RAM and only running at 2666. I recently upgraded, and I can't get my new (and much better) kit to run at faster than 2133. I have tried to use the Ryzen calculator and everything, but I'm not good at this piece at all. HELP PLEASE! Here's my setup: ASUS ROG Strix B450-F Gaming motherboard Ryzen 7 2700X CPU (I took the OC off when trying to get the memory to work, so it's running at its stock 3.7 GHz) Corsair Dominator Platinum RGB DDR4 (4 x 8 kit), 3600 MHz, 16-18-18-36 I think those are the relevant specs, but let me know if anything else is needed. I just want decent memory speeds. I don't even need the 3600.

Hi, this is my first time asking the Interweb questions so here goes, my pc (specs below) stopped booting after I pulled it from storage, I have pulled my GPU and used the on board VGA port and the system boots fine, I also put in an older GPU and ignored the external power which it booted saying input external power, when I input the external power again it would not boot even to the bios, on that running theory I upgraded my power supply to a MWE 750 have reconnected the original GPU and the same thing, swap that GPU for the older 660 and it booted fine and I can run it, so that said is my newer GPU dead or not? I don't have another unit to test it in and when it is installed and press the power button nothing changes states, no fan no lights My spec Gigabyte GA-Z77X-D3H Intel i7 3770 GPU asus gtx 970 turbo and the older one is a gigabyte gtx 660 16gb ram 250gb ssd 1tb did Cooler master 500w (ol power supply) MWE 750w

My sapphire pulse nitro rx570 has been running rough since i got it. the gpu during games will cut the fans off , even with a set fan curve or just a single rpm set. During bench-marking on kombuster it seems to hold up fine tho. reaching the same temperature and higher but the fans don't shut off. I have one single stick of 16gb ram cause its an itx board.

Hi there, I've recently upgraded to an RTX 2080ti and have sold my GTX 1080 to my friend. After installing it in his PC he is having trouble running games that in my system weren't a problem. We have tried reading through old forum posts, changing everything to performance mode were we can and have re-installed the drivers (using DDU) a few times to no avail. Strange thing is that it's only happening in certain games for example BF5 and FC5 (these are the worst out of the bunch) But when playing other things like Destiny 2 or COD BO4 it runs great if not better than it did when the card was in my system. It seems to me that when playing certain games the GPU isn't being fully utilised but then in other games it is, I can't really explain any better than that. In the windows settings the 1080 is selected as the graphics device. Ideally just looking for suggestions or to see if anyone has had the same problem to see how resolved it. If we don't find a fix by next weekend it looks like it's going to be a Windows reinstall but as we have recently done that and he is still downloading stuff now hopefully he doesn't have to do that. Thanks in advance for any help, it is appreciated, Below are his specs and some pics so you can see what I'm trying to iterate. His specs are: i7 4790K 16GB 2400Mhz Maximus Formula 7 650 Corsair PSU (not sure exactly what one of the top of my head but a bronze rated one) and he plays in 1440p the same as I was using the card in. This picture was taken whilst trying to play BF5, the game runs but at a stuttery 40 FPS irregardless of resolution or settings. And this in when playing Destiny with higher settings than I could play it at on my PC

Si I'm trying to run a two monitor setup, but Windows can't detect the second monitor. Whichever monitor is displaying the pc, the other cannot be detected through the settings. I've tried updating drivers (through device manager and AMD Radeon settings), rolling back drivers, different cables. I have two rx 570s running in crossfire, so I disabled crossfire and the second monitor still wouldn't be detected, I removed the second 570 and the second is still not being detected. I have no idea what to do. I still have a gtx 1050 ti sitting in a box I may try using DDU and putting that in to diagnose, but I rather not swap out my rx 570s with a gtx 1050 ti. Specs: Ryzen 7 1700X 16 GB Trident Z RX 570s in Crossfire Booting off a Samsung 860 WIndows 10 Pro 1809 AMD Radeon Settings 19.9.2

When i power on my system sometimes it won't boot it just shows a black screen and my mouse and keyboard don't get powered. When it does boot it shows a bios screen that says "restore bios setting " and it tells me to press f1 to go to the bios or f2 to load normal cmos settings

Hello. Sorry for formatting, I am currently on mobile right now. My modem has been malfunctioning (all according to my ISP, Spectrum) and is sending an incorrect signal to my router, preventing me from accessing the internet. Is there any way to interface with the modem on the network to fix this signal error? Any help is appreciated! Thank you! Modem: Cisco DPC3216 Router: Netgear R6300 V2

Specs:- Amd ryzen 3 2200G Asus ex-a320m gaming motherboard 2* hyper x fury 8gb black ram Corsair tx 750 psu Dell IN2030M monitor So a while back in january my pc stopped working and due lockdown I could not go for repair, fast forward about 2 weeks back i gave my pc to repair. So about the reason I had given my motherboard to the repair shop was because it had problem with booting as cpu wont boot and today i got it back. After i came home and tried to boot it up the motherboard would boot but the monitor would just show the message " ENTERING POWER SAVING MODE " .I tried cleaning rams and putting them back still no progress.also just for info due lavk of use as pc was not working the oneside of dvi cable has gooten somwhat rusted so could that lead to the problem ??? I really appriciate all help.Thank you

Hey Guys, I recently have the Problem that almost every Game is crashing and I'm stumped. I have no Idea what the Problem is. So starting up a Game is no Problem and in most cases I can Play the Game for atleast 20-30 minutes, but after that Games crash or I get a Black Screen for a sec and the Game Closes itself. (PC is fine, doesn't crash) I think, it's the Graphic Card but I don't know for sure. (Can it have something to do with Directx12?) For Example I played WoW without Problems not too long ago, and suddenly I had those Black Screens, Game froze…After that I changed the Directx Version to 11 and it seems to be doing fine now. Would like to know your Opinions on this… Here are my Specs: CPU 1 x INTEL® Core™ i7-5820K Six-Core 3.30 GHz 15MB RAM 1 x 32GB DDR4/2666MHz Quad Channel Memory GPU 1 x MSI GeForce RTX 2070 GAMING Z 8G 8 GB Motherboard 1 x ASRock X99 Extreme 4 Powersup 1 x 700W be quiet! Pure Power L8 700W 80+ Bronze

My router has been doing this for about three months, it just restarts itself randomly, its very frustrating for me as when i`m gaming or in an online class gets sudden disconnection,anyone has any way to solve this problem? the router i`m using is tp-link archer ac1200

Hey wanted to ask the community if they are having the same problem with mine.So I built my friend a budget rig its a R3 3200g MSI A-320M Pro,1x8gb DDR4 Hyperx fury @2666mhz. and I plugged in the monitor and It shows white lines and I thought to myself maybe there's a defect on one of my components. now I did some test to the PC and the Monitor so I plugged in my PC to another Display (My TV) and it worked fine and concluded that it was the monitor but no.... when I plugged the monitor to the cable box it worked fine no trouble I mean wtf? and when I plugged it back to the PC same problem I noticed something the refresh rate is 75hz? last time I checked I bought a 60hz display so I Assumed that the PC was forcing to output 75hz. then I installed windows and setting the display settings to 60hz and plugged back the Monitor to the PC and voila its gone. so I assumed correct that the motherboard or the BIOS IDK was outputting 75hz at boot the problem is still there at boot but when I boot up to windows its fine now here's a question is there a fix for this kind of problem or do I have to live/replace the display :<

I picked up this gtx 780 as is so I did this to my self. It is still not outputting a display on a known good power supply with the 6 and 8 pin securely pushed in and it is pushed securely into the pcie slot. I cleaned the card, replaced the thermal paste, and flashed the bios, and still no luck. Anything I can do before I buy a used toaster oven to throw the PCB in? Thanks.