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  1. I have just built new pc and it is laggy while doing anything. Cursor skips from place to place while moving. Even bios is laggy. In bios it is set to external graphics. Cpu: ryzen 5 5600x Gpu: rx 6700 xt Motherboard: Aorus B550M pro Ram: Kingston Fury Beast, 32 GB, 4200MHz, CL36 Drive: SSD Kingston 2TB M.2 PCI-E x4 Gen4 NVMe Case: H1 nzxt PSU: 750W gold 80plus Lian Li Please help I've tried to reinstall the drivers via DDu multiple times.
  2. I have a problem when I connect both of my monitors it appears a blue square on my first monitor I tried to search but I couldn’t find anything. I updated drivers on their official website but nothing gigabyte M27q asusproart278cv
  3. Hello, I'm troubleshooting my grandpa's PC, and there's this really weird issue, where the screen freezes and rectangles appear on the screen, then after some time, it restarts, and the cycle continues with random times in between failures, I think it could be a cpu issue (as the computer has integrated graphics instead of a gpu) could anyone help me troubleshoot it?
  4. I'm doing a new build and I encountered a weird issue. My Samsung 990 PRO with heatsink will not fit into my GIGABYTE B760 GAMING X because the MOBO heatsink doesn't allow the SSD to slot in by around 1mm. BUILD CPU: INTEL CORE I5-13400 GPU: GIGABYTE GAMING RTX 4060 MOBO: GIGABYTE B760 GAMING X SSD: SAMSUNG 990 PRO 1TB RAM: CORSAIR VENGEANCE RGB 2X 16GB 5600 AIO: Cooler Master MasterLiquid ML240L V2 ARGB PSU: GIGABYTE GP-P550B CASE: LOGIC ARYA ARGB
  5. The ASUS Pro WS W790 SAGE SE boards can set the SlimSAS Configuration to either PCIe or SATA in the BIOS under the Onboard Devices Configuration (page 60 in the BIOS Manual). I still can't get it to see the HDDs. Anybody have any experience with this configuration?
  6. So I was trying to update my BIOS whilst after that I was going to install a fresh install of Win10 (then I would install AtlasOS) onto my computer. This meant I thought it would be easier to have the windows 10 files and the BIOS file all on one stick… I booted into bios and selected M-Flash, with my USB with the Win10 install files AND the new BIOS version on it. After this it didn’t output anything. I have tried popping the CMOS then putting it back in as well as joining the 2 pins next to the CMOS battery (supposed to reset it?) I am unsure what happened, I get all the LEDs on and my peripherals light up, just no output… Motherboard: MSI A320M-A Pro CPU: Ryzen 3 1209 GPU: GTX 1660 Super RAM: 16GB DDR4 Corsair (cannot remember exact specs if needed I can get it) Any ideas are very welcome!
  7. Hi, so I've recently bought a new GPU and after installing it, and reinstalling Windows (ye I used DDU but wanted to be sure it wasn't a problem with the driver, so I reinstalled) I noticed my GPU was crashing on AAA titles, so I installed MSI afterburner to check what was going on, and to my surprise, as I was idling (in the images below) the clock and mem were spiking, I've never really seen this before, so that's why I'm asking. I had a Corsair CS750m but It was 10 years old so I bought a new PSU to stop the crashing and that fixed that, but now I'm curious about the memory, if it's normal for it to do this while I'm not doing anything? tl:dr; the first image is when (the one with the line at like 60% is during some light gaming, which to me this looks strange af to spike up and down). Should I return the card and by another one?
  8. i have a problem with my gtx 1650, the day before yesterday it was running pretty fine then the next day i turned my pc on, and it showed me the dell logo and the windows loading screen, then after that the display goes off with no signal. the gpu fans stopped working after that. i restarted my pc but now literally nothing is displayed and the gpu fans aren't turning at all, i swapped my 1650 with my old 1030, and everything worked fine. after 2 days i wanted to give it a second chance to see if its going to work. but now it gave me the dell logo for 2 seconds and then no display and the fans are off again. restarted the pc and it doesnt give me any display. Sorry for my bad English tho.
  9. Hi, Recently bought a new gpu due to the last one breaking; set it up today and attempting to play fortnite, only to find out that on boot application is throttled to 6-8 frames and 200ms input delay. this problem is caused by the application only seeming to use 2% cpu 0% gpu when BEservice.exe is open (BattlEye cheat software), but when closed fortnite returns to its usual CPU/GPU usage in menu. is there anything that i can try before i reinstall the game? drivers are up to date, occurs in performance mode also. pics attached show fps in red text above task manager.
  10. Hi, I have a problem with GPU Rx 580 2048sp 8GB. I have tried with many motherboards but still fail. However, recently I have tried it with a riser, and it finally works. So I reversed my action by putting it directly in motherboards, and It is still not working. Only Riser can revise my Rx 580, regardless of the boards. Please help me explain this situation. PS: These are the boards: Huanan Zhi X79, Asrock B250 Fatal1ty Gaming, MSI Z390 Gaming
  11. after a year of saving i have just finished building my pc, and nothing is responding. the cpu light is on, and i cant really troubleshoot to see whats wrong as i dont have any spare parts lying around. specs: mobo- msi mag b550 tomahawk cpu - ryzen 79700g gpu - (still saving up for it) ram - Kingston fury 2 x 16GB storage- i have a 4tb Seagate hdd, and a 400GB Kingston ssd the fans spin to life and the rgb comes on, but my monitor never gets any form of signal. I believe its my cpu that's the problem and not the mobo socket, as when the processor arrived from amazon there were some bent pins but i managed to get them straight again with some tweezers. allso when i turn it on and everything else is on the cpu dosent change in temp without a cooler on it.
  12. Okay, so I'm new to pc building, but have wanted to build a gaming rig for a while. I did my research and bought parts that would be compatible and work together. After putting everything together I ran into an issue. The computer powers on but there isn't any output to a display. The fans turn on but nothing else. I have tried everything from reseating all the parts to trying different monitors and cables but nothing works. I have come to the conclusion that the current bios is incompatible with the CPU I have purchased. Therefore, a bios update is needed for the CPU to work with my motherboard. Unfortunately, the motherboard needs a CPU (that I don't have and would need to purchase.) that is compatible with the current bios of the motherboard, in order to to upgrade the BIOS to work with the CPU I have. (A "catch 22" situation.) In addition, the motherboard I have is about 8 years old (but new in box and never used), so I'm wondering if its worth it to take it to a pc repair shop to get the bios updated. Key Points - I don't want to spend money on a new motherboard if updating the BIOS works. - I don't want to have to buy any more parts (i.e. new ram*, new CPU, new PSU, etc.) *(I did buy ram that is slightly faster than originally recommended by the manufacturer, believing it would work and still be recognized but slightly bottlenecked by rest of hardware.) - I want the PC to last a good while before needing to make upgrades. - I don't want to have to spend any more money than completely necessary. I already feel like i spent too much money on this already. - I still need to purchase Windows 11 O.S. - I still want to get more internal cooling fans So here's my question. Should I bother taking the motherboard to a repair shop to get the BIOS updated, or should I just buy a more modern motherboard altogether. Option 1 Get the BIOS updated at a local repair shop to work with my current parts. Pros: - Cheaper - Don't have to get a new motherboard. Cons: - No guarantee that the ram will be compatible after bios update. - Might need to get parts that are more compatible. Option 2 Buy a new motherboard. Pros: - More likely to work with my current parts - Bios flashing would be easier - More "Future Proof" (would last longer before needing an upgrade) Cons: - More expensive option - Might need to buy more compatible parts For reference here is my build so far: CASE: Cooler Master MasterBox Lite 3.1 TG mATX (MCW-L3S3-KGNN-00) CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 RAM: TeamGroup "T-Force Vulcan Z" DDR4 3200mhz 2x8gb (16gb total) PSU: Segotep 650W 80 Plus Gold Certified Non-Modular ATX Power Supply GPU: Gaming Radeon RX 6650 XT 128-bit 8GB GDDR6 (RX 6650 XT MECH 2X 8G OC) Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-AB350M-D3H (Rev 1.0) Storage: Western Digital 500GB WD Blue SN570 NVMe SSD - Gen3 x4 PCIe 8Gb/s, M.2 2280 & Samsung 870 EVO 500GB SATA 2.5" Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) (MZ-77E500) Any and all input and advice would be greatly appreciated. THANK YOU!
  13. Hello, An interesting problem has popped up where when I plug in a headset to my computer one side stops working. First it was with my Razer headset 3 years ago which i thought just broke with an internal problem with the headset itself. After that, for 3 years I didn't use any wired headsets. Today I tried my little brothers HyperX headset, which at first worked fine, both sides working and all that. But when I plugged them back in about 2 hours later, one side stopped working once again. And now even when I plug them into my brothers PC, they're one sided there too. Here is a list of methods I've tried - (Check the headphone connection: Ensure that the headphone plug is fully inserted into the audio jack on your laptop. Sometimes, a partial connection can result in sound only playing in one ear. Try gently adjusting or reinserting the plug to ensure a secure connection. Test with different headphones: If possible, try using a different pair of wired headphones with your laptop. This will help determine if the issue lies with the headphones or the laptop's audio jack. Update audio drivers: Outdated or incompatible audio drivers can cause sound issues. Visit the manufacturer's website of your laptop and search for the latest audio drivers for your specific model. Download and install the drivers, then restart your laptop and test the headphones again. Adjust audio settings: Go to the sound settings on your laptop and check if there are any balance or mono/stereo settings that may be affecting the audio output. Ensure that the balance is centered and that stereo sound is enabled. Try a different audio jack: If your laptop has multiple audio jacks, try plugging the headphones into a different jack to see if the issue persists. This will help determine if the problem is specific to one audio jack. Test on another device: If possible, try using your wired headphones on another device, such as a smartphone or another laptop, to see if they work correctly. This will help confirm if the issue is with the headphones or the laptop.
  14. Hello to anyone who reads this. I need help with a zotac 1080ti amp extreme 11gb. At heavy load like furmark nothing happens the gpu pulls and does its job. But if itry to run any game on it at higher Grafics it freezes the screene at 5 minutes of gameplay at any game and it will require a full restart for the pc to function again. i already tried: swiching psu, new windows, newest driver, new mobo, new ram, new cpu current setup: r5 3600, 64gb predator ram kit(2x32), b450 tomahawk max ii, aerocool cycloon 700w, Gtx 1080ti zotac amp extreme any ideas apriciated edit: the loaded up picture i have an encryption / decryption error
  15. Hi everyone, I recently upgraded my GPU from a 1050ti to an RX 6600, expecting better performance. However, things have gone south. I've got the latest drivers for the RX 6600, but the performance is worse. Now, I'm wondering if it's my i5-8400 processor or my 550W power supply causing the problem. Since the GPU swap, my CPU cooler is working hard, and CPU usage is always at 100%.My games take much longer to load into game. Can anyone help figure out if my processor or power supply is the issue? Or is it something else causing the lunderperforming? Thanks a bunch for any advice!
  16. I can have my controller connected and my headphones all at he same time all running well (my headphones are also connected by usb not aux) then since I don't have a good cable yet when I accidently touch my cable with my leg the cable gets hit up which makes it disconnect (I'm using a original ps4 controller) then when the cable gets put down again a static audio bug starts and the only temp fix i have for it is just to disconnect and re connect my headphones. Video below (Hopefully its good enough but I can provide more of anything). IMG_4166.mov
  17. For the past 3 days, with only 10 hours of sleep, I’ve been trying to solve a problem with my PC. Three days ago, I replaced my B350 board with a Ryzen 5 1600 with a B550 board with a Ryzen 5 5500. A quick note: The B550 board and the CPU come from my sister’s PC, which she no longer uses. The problem I’m having is audio cracking, and in some games, it even sounds delayed. My sister had no problems with her PC, and I had no problems with my parts. The intensity of this problem is also not uniform, with Spotify and GTA V being strangely not as strong, but with sudden sounds like Win notifications or when changing songs, it’s always audible. The worst example is Fallout 76, where the crackling is continuous and the sound is delayed or rather distorted quite strongly. Here is a list of everything I have done and tried. I’m sure I’ve forgotten many things that are not included in this list. OS level: Clean Win 11 installation, which I tried 6 times with a new installation medium to rule out installation errors. Installation of the latest drivers. Reinstallation of drivers. Installation of various drivers. Test without drivers. Checking the audio settings in Win and Realtek. Latency test performed (no problems). Hardware level: I have tried various audio devices, from USB headsets to 3.5mm headphones and Bluetooth. I completely disassembled the PC and rebuilt each part. I checked every cable. I unplugged all devices and connections that are not necessary. The temperatures are very good. No benchmark problems or crashes, also applies to games, the performance is good and stable. Bios level: Latest Bios version. Downgraded Bios. CMOS. XMP on/off. PCIe 4/3. Resize bar on/off. Various RAM speeds. Strange case: I removed all 4 RAM DIMMs and only inserted one 8-GB DIMM, and it got slightly better, the crackling was less and in some games it was almost gone. So I tested each individual RAM DIMM, and the result was identical. But as soon as I insert a second one, it starts again. I tried this with channel A and B.
  18. The audio from it sounds kinda robotic and i can barely hear myself. The louder i speak, the more you can hear it. The weird part is, the microphone sounds fine on my friends pc, and its also been working for the past 3-4 years normally. There had been no windows updates in the time it broke (about 2-3 days). I reinstalled the audio and usb drivers (i hope i did that correctly) and i dont know what to do now. I tried looking into audio settings, stuff like windows auto repair tool and such. And for the microphone it says "no nest information available/no information about socket" (something along this lines, my translation may be a lil messy), and in the information about the controller it gives me a hyperlink to "C-MEDIA Inc." and i am almost sure that before, there was something different there. I attached the audio file to show how it sounds. Any help is appreciated. (I'm also sorry in advance for my poor engish, i'm not an native speaker.) PC Specs: OS: Windows 10 (newest version) Motherboard: gigabyte Z490 UD Cpu: Intel i7 10700k Gpu: Nvidia 3060ti bez nazwy.wav
  19. Hello I was just wondering why my pc seems to have such bad performance for my specs, ive done research on where i should be with my exact specs and im nowhere close. My specs: Ryzen 5500 Rx 6600 8gb 16 gb Ram SSD 480gb Ill list some of the games ive tested: -battlefield V ultra around 80 high around 80-100 -Rust 55-90 -Hell let loose 50-70 with alot of stutters -CS2 90 fps on high To me these fps numbers seem very low in comparison to what ive seen and gotten as estimates before, Would love some tips on what could be wrong and if anyone has the same specs that could share some fps numbers! This is also with massive stutter problems usually with every game i test. Regards Harley
  20. I turned on the pc today and felt it really slow, turns out is stuck at 0.8 Ghz. I am researching hard because I use this pc to work so is extremely important. I removed the GPU, I reset the BIOS, updated to the latest BIOS, used the optimal default profile, apply correctly new thermal paste but nothing works. I am sure is not temperatures, at idle temperatures are ok: I use ThrottleStop program and it works (returned to normal speeds) by disabling BD PROCHOT but as soon as I restart windows the problem comes back The 0.8 is also seen in BIOS: What can I do, I can´t work, today I lost the whole day. My pc is: i7 10700k @ 5.05 Ghz Corsair H100i pro XT 240mm MSI z490 tomahawk 16 Gb (2 x 8 GB) Patriot Viper Steel - 4000mhz - 16-16-16-34 MSI 1070TI titanium
  21. Hello wise members of the LTT Forums, I recently got the S23 ultra (I'm in Australia and on thr most recent update as of the 2nd of December) and I've been having problems with thr camera. When I go into video mode, the OIS (Optical Image Stabilisation) vibrates and makes a funny sound. When reviewing the video, I hear a distinct buzzing noise and the camera shakes so much that everything appears blurry. Here is a link to the video of what is happening: https://youtu.be/viIZNFpwWs4 ?si=tcmHO_PcPGSc3CbP The funny thing about it is that it is only the diagonals and not the horizontal or the vertical. I'm wondering if this is a hardware or software issue as I just got the phone and immediately updated to the newest software so it could be a bug. I think it's a software issue because this problem doesn't happen when I'm in photo mode and wave it around like i did. If anyone has any suggestions for how to fix this, or of they have encountered the same problem, just reply. Regards, TheOneAndOnlySpecial
  22. The monitor on my recently purchased HP Omen 25L computer randomly goes black, and I've encountered some issues. I have a 4060Ti, i7 13700F, and 16GB RAM, and my power supply is 600W. From the first time I turnd it on, the monitor turns black for a few seconds, and after pressing some buttons on the keyboard it brings it back. This can happen every 10 seconds or up to 20 minutes, usually lasting only a few seconds. The lights on the mouse and keyboard also stop during this time. When it comes back on, it's like my computer restarted - all programs are closed, even though the PC was still on. I've swapped monitors and HDMI cables, both at the same speed. All drivers are updated(I think). I even went to a shop, and they mentioned that not everything was entirely installed. They checked the device manager, where some icons had yellow triangles. They advised updating those, but my attempts failed. I then tried reinstalling Windows, but that didn't fix the issue. I'm seeking help to resolve this problem. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
  23. Hello forumers, need help/advice. I attached my pc specs at the bottom, a not bad pc. the problem I have is that the fps in games is completely different from what I expected from this build. 60 fps in dota 2, 200 cs go (max) and barely 60 in GTA 5 (ofc all games on minimum settings) CPU temps under load are 60-70, got liquid cooling for it so it's not the problem I guess can someone help identify the problem?
  24. Struggling to get my ASUS VG248QZ monitor to run at 144 Hz with my HP Victus 15-fa1026nb 15.6''. Tried different HDMI cables (1.4 and 2.1), a HDMI to DisplayPort dongle, and even a USB-C hub with HDMI. Tweaked NVIDIA settings, but no luck. The hunt for 144 Hz continues. I could only reach up to 80hz.
  25. I recently swapped in a rx 580 and a be quiet 650 watt power supply in my pc and once I deleted old GPU drivers and downloaded new ones my screen started flickering black and back to normal a few times and stayed normal so I tried to run a game and my PC ran like normal but next time I turned it off and turned it back on the next day I get no signal on my tv. Yesterday I tried everything I could to get it to work but I only get signal by using onboard graphics. Then today I finally got it to work again by taking out the GPU and leaving it out until I finished installing ddu and uninstalling old drivers and then popped out the battery on the motherboard. After that I put the card back in and hooked everything up and when I turned it on with the HDMI display port adapter inserted into the card everything turned on and worked completely fine. The new drivers started to automatically download and install then the screen flickered black once like normal and came back on with no more flickering like last time. I installed a game(Skyrim) and played for a while and was getting 80 fps and temps never got over 70° Celsius. I played for about 30 minutes and everything worked fine so I decided to take a brake and turn it off and ran a couple of errands and when I got back I turned on my PC just to get no signal again. I've always had problems with this the past 2 GPUs I've had. It's pretty much a new PC that I got while prices were price gouged and I got it from magic micro and it doesn't even have over 40 hours on it. The first gpu was a GTX 970 and when I first installed it (got separate from my PC later) everything worked fine and I eventually came across a Zotac 1060 and this is where the problems started. I didn't know to uninstall drivers and I threw it in and everything worked fine until I turned it off then back on after about an hour of being off. After that I never got a signal. I tried to put my other card back in and it worked fine even after a few days even after I turned it off for a while then back on and the next day turned it on and everything was still working fine. But a day or so later I was never able to get a signal since last year. It's pretty much been shelved and bagged since then unless I tried to get it working to no avail. Which brings me to where I'm at now. It worked fine today once I uninstalled all old drivers and even got to play games once the new ones installed, everything played fine, but once I turned it off for about 2 hours I don't get a signal anymore unless I use onboard graphics. Can anyone please help me? I don't have another PC to troubleshoot parts with and I'm really hoping no parts are bad as it plays completely fine once drivers are installed. Idk why I don't get a signal after it's been turned off. I hate seeing it shelved all the time and there being nothing I can do to fix it. I'm at a loss here and really need help.
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