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I have a friend who wants to build her first gaming PC soon, which I've been helping her out on. She's bought her parts already, which is a 7800X3D, a 4070 Ti Super and MSI Pro B650-S WiFi, and 2x 16GB 6000MTs CL30 RAM. Her dad has an old PSU which is a Thermaltake Toughpower 1200W W1033 PSU which is roughly about 10±1 years old. Given it's age, is it good enough and, most importantly, is it reliable enough for modern systems? I feel like it is, after some digging around, but I would like to get a second opinion on the matter. I added a few pictures of the PSU too. The picture of the PSU on the side is from my friend. The other 2 is from TechPowerUp's review on the PSU back in 2007 (https://www.techpowerup.com/review/thermaltake-toughpower-1200w/)

So im building a new PC using my old power supply from my previous build, after finished building it when i try turning it on it wont boot. After i check everything i realize that my 4 pin CPU connector from my PSU is melted. Is this the reason my PC wont boot? Sorry for my bad english, Thanks!

I am losing my mind. I have received a new motherboard, CPU, and power supply after previously RMAing the last ones. When everything arrived I reassembled the PC to try again. At first it booted to the BIOS as seen below. No bootable devices detected but that's okay. Friend says CPU fan plugged to pump so let's power off and fix that. On the next boot, I get a solid VGA light: the 4090 is not detected. I unplug it and unseat it, power on. Absolutely nothing. The board receives power, as its RGB is on when plugged in. But the front power switch and power switch on the mobo do not turn it on. At this point I'm going mad. I check all the connections: CPU, motherboard, SATA, everything. Nothing is loose. I try again. Failure to start. Having failed to troubleshoot one problem before another propped up, I have to ask myself: is this new HX1000i faulty? I try my old EVGA 850w power supply that I know for a fact worked last week before I powered off my PC to salvage parts. Answer? Yes, it still works! The RGB on the mobo comes on. I try powering the PC on again. Same problem. I am beginning to think every PC I build is developing sentience and refusing to work for me. Please help. This is causing me no shortage of anxiety. OS: Windows 10 64-bit BIOS version: 2613 CPU: Ryzen 9 7950X3D GPU: RTX 4090 Mobo: ASUS PRIME X670E-PRO 2 M2 ssds, 2 2.5 ssds, 2 hdds PSU: Corsair HX1000i HSF: Dark Rock Elite 10 fans connected to Thermaltake fan hub (Important: I flashed the BIOS to the recent version the day before receiving a new CPU. I don't know if this hurt anything, but the fact it started before after the flash appeared to be successful according to instructions makes me believe it didn't.)

I have recently upgraded to a 7900 xtx and got a new PSU to make sure I had plenty of power. I was running a 750w before and upgraded to a 1000w. But since I hooked up the new PSU, I cannot get the PC to boot. When i power up the PSU, RGB lights on the motherboard light up and then if I hit the power button the pc briefly lights up then dies, when I press the power button again, nothing happens. If I power down the PSU, let it discharge then power it back up I can try to power the PC again one more time before the Power button does nothing. I switched back to the old one and it does the same thing... Any help would be appreciated... :) Added a video of the issue. https://photos.app.goo.gl/fnwm9WSrA2DuFhqR9

I work at a repair shop called Rob & Pete Computer Geeks. A customer came in with a cyber power pre built that after a few years of use stopped showing a display. The integrated graphics worked, but not the 3080. I checked the cooler master power supply, and the pcie connector is melted on the power supply side. Luckily, all the other parts seem undamaged.

So I recently bought a new motherboard (MSI z790-A Max Wi-fi) and it comes with two 8 pin power connectors, something that my previous motherboard didn't come with. I have a Corsair RM750X 80 Plus Gold Full Modular power supply and I check if it was enough power for all the upgrades I was gonna do but I didn't notice that the new motherboard come with extra power pins. Am I gonna need to buy new cables or a whole new PSU to power this motherboard?

Disclaimer: This guide is only for systems that use the LGA1155 socket. HP 6000 systems and other LGA775 systems are not compatible. Hi, first I apologize for any grammar mistakes, English is not my native language, so i wanted to upgrade my HP pro 6300's power supply to something more powerful but the motherboard gets power from a weird p2 connector and a 6 pin connector instead of a standard 24 pin power connector. after doing a little bit of research, i managed to stick in an EVGA 500w PSU and everything is working fine so far, if anyone wants to know how i did it, here is what you need to do. - buy a 24 pin to 6 pin adapter cable ( around $10) https://i.imgur.com/mAH1oTQ.jpg but they are made for z220/z230 workstations only. so, you'll have to easily change the pins layout of that white p2 connector for the adapter to work with your HP pro 6300. (this is the one I bought https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B075242NGZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) - remove all 4 cables from that white p2 connector and compare the cables with the ones from your old PSU. your old PSU will have 4 or 5 cables on that p2 connector ( grey, green, white, white with red stripes, and sometimes black) . the adapter will have (yellow, green, red, black) ok, then put the yellow cable back in where the grey one was and put the green one back in where the green one was and put the black one back in where the pure white one was. and put the red one exactly next to where you put the yellow one. ok now turn on your pc and that's it. if you get an error on startup saying that the PSU fan is not detected, press F1 to ignore it and continue, but if you get tired of the error every time you start your pc and want to fix it, here is what to do. remember the black cable you inserted where the pure white one was, that cable is a TAC cable, it sends the PSU fan speed readings to motherboard but since the new PSU's wiring is not the same as the old HP one, the motherboard has no clue. so, you'll need to cut that black cable from where the cable meets with the 24 pin connector thingy (just to get enough length of it) https://i.imgur.com/n3W9MG5.jpg and then you'll need to attach it to the green TAC cable of the CPU fan connector and this will trick the motherboard into thinking that the CPU fan it is sensing is the PSU fan and you won't get any errors. Good luck https://i.imgur.com/63KGBe5.jpg https://i.imgur.com/DRN6twk.jpg Edit : The fan error stopped showing up after a few days or so without doing any modification (that fan error is probably set up to show up a certain number of times). Edit 2: Another option would be buying a dual SATA to 6 pin or 8 pin cable but it's not really recommended for anything above a GTX1060 cause these prebuilt PCs come with only 320W PSU, here's how it works https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JkmsLxnCfrQ Edit 3: Here's a diagram of how exactly my adapter is wired https://imgur.com/20grXCC. For those that have differently colored adapters, you can still follow this diagram but you gotta check where your wires are going exactly.

Currently I have a UPS which sits on the floor due to space restrictions. It's a CyberPower 1500VA. Bought it about five years ago and it has been great, though perhaps overkill. In my defense at the time of purchasing I had a custom gaming PC, though that had a 10th gen i5 extreme and a 1050ti so perhaps still overkill. lol My set up has greatly changed as I've switched eco-systems and now I'm currently employing as daily drivers and have for some time. I need a UPS which can support and fit in the following: M1 14" MacBook Pro Intel Core i7 16" MacBook Pro An Apple Studio Display (there is also an array of things plugged into the display which I've attached photos of) Apple Super Drive 2TB External SSD A MagSafe charger for my iPhone and Apple Watch (which I often use while working) A USB dock An old HP Printer A desk fan A pencil sharpener My Energizer AA/AAA battery charger A universal laptop charger (this gets used whenever I have a laptop which needs to be restored that does not come with its original charger, otherwise I use the original charger, so occasionally there is a third laptop) I need it to fit into a cubby on my desk with the following measurements Width: 17 3/8" Height: 3 1/2" Depth: 23 3/8" The reason for those size restrictions is I want it off the ground but not taking up any desk space or noticeable, so I wish to put it into a small side cubby on my L shaped desk. For that reason I was thinking of going with a rack unit and considering my CyberPower one has continued to work without issue, I thought I'd go with them again. I was considering the following unit: https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-OR500LCDRM1U-System-Outlets-Rackmount/dp/B000XJLLKG/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=6EZQQY594P84&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.A0cUP8zfZTSHPK5mT_pHFHXAum1bmtz96nin2c1_ZG63742obKs_cJrO0F5gHsuWLUrKqB5w1AesCU92uSF_KtgxJL4hGKrJOex4bwmJQ8XHCRMjc8T0xZnGilLqnsqNmnU6g197AQSkIC08biHzPME9HBW1x-2YdY2aXtnpCAestYtu4QSxQjZIiMvCg8Td-SP7FJflvQvI2lTkOfwmiXzLlZwolhqk9XMhfiug8Ok.hJvYW_2uO8EW3zxUNUmQLeHl_RBTyM-wJwM1o2WU3Mg&dib_tag=se&keywords=UPS&qid=1710887546&refinements=p_n_feature_browse-bin%3A32912132011|32912137011%2Cp_n_feature_two_browse-bin%3A109332549011&rnid=109332465011&s=pc&sprefix=up%2Celectronics%2C106&sr=1-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1 My questions are the following: Will this unit be sufficient in making sure that my devices are protected against potential electrical surges? Will this unit be able to provide sufficient power for up to 60 minutes during a power outage? Are there better or more compatible options which you would recommend that I utilize instead? Note: The Studio Display image is outdated as it doesn't have the Super Drive or the MagSafe charger. The Super Drive is mounted so that when the back faces the wall the opening of the drive while hidden faces the right hand side and is easily accessible and the MagSafe charger is connected via a USB C cable and sits on my desk, allowing me to drop off my iPhone and Apple Watch for charging while working.

I am looking for a cheap 400watt SFX power supply for my NAS. I am trying to stay below $80 USD if possible. All the models I know of are $120+. Are there any good lesser known budget brands that make decent psu's? Note: dont need modular

Hey everyone! I've recently experienced a problem with my PC and my homes breaker. Under seemingly the most random of loads; sometimes playing AAA games at max settings with HDR, and other times just on a call with my friend without HDR, my computer will shut off as well as everything else in my room, which I am assuming is my breaker being pulled, since the power loss is exclusively in my room. I've tried many different fixes, most notably using an extension cable to route just my pc power to a different circuit, while leaving everything else like my HDR monitor and other electronics on the other circuit, effectively spitting power usage over two circuits. This did work! For a week or so, until I started seeing this issue happening again (albeit less often then it was happening before) So! Here we are, me sitting at my pc, wondering when it will pull my fuse next. Is there any possible fixes or solutions you can think of? One of the big things I was thinking, is maybe its my PSU? It's quite a budget one, and decided to reuse it after buying a new PC. It's enough to handle my components no problem, even at max load, and hasnt shat out on me. But maybe it is the issue? I ideally dont want to be out 100 bucks for a new PSU if I don't have too. Let me know if that's a fair assumption, and if it is a psu problem, what ones do you recommend for my build? Thanks! PC SPECS: CPU: intel i7-12700k GPU: Nvidia 3070 (8gb) RAM: 32gb 3600 DDR4 MB: asrock b660m-pro PSU: I have no idea, and im too lazy to unplug everything and see. Just assume its a budget PSU. Nothing fancy (If it's really important I can check, just let me know) OS: Windows 11 Home TL;DR: My PC is causing my home's breaker to trip randomly, especially during intense gaming or even simple tasks. I've tried various fixes like routing PC power separately, but the problem persists. Could it be my budget PSU causing the issue? I'm hesitant to buy a new one if it's unnecessary. If that's the issue, got recommendations for a reliable PSU for my build?

Hello, I'm looking into getting a UPS. I've heard a lot about them, but have never owned one or really researched more than today. I built a new computer and figured i should take care of it. My PCs Specs 7800x3d 4070ti Super 1050W PSU Two/three monitors I also like the idea of having it in case of power outage to charge phones etc. I cant really afford to spend a lot of money on a UPS at the moment (Preferably under 250$) but there is a little wiggle room. From what I've looked into, my top choice is the "CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD PFC Sinewave UPS System, 1500VA/1000W," (https://www.cyberpowersystems.com/product/ups/pfc-sinewave/cp1500pfclcd/). However everything online has given me 20 different opinions on each brand and their reliability and am looking for help. Is this a good choice? Any better choices, recommendations, or stuff to look into? Thanks in Advance. Brayden

The title isn't click bait (unfortunately). I sold my EVGA 3080ti to a coworker recently. He's had it for about a week and a half. It's been running without any problems until last night. He said around midnight he woke up "the card literally started screaming, woke up everyone in the house, louder than any TV I've ever had at full blast". I have never heard of this happening. I'm not sure if he might have had a power surge that freaked out his system, or if it's something else entirely different. He said he restarted the computer and it's no longer doing it. I'm at a loss though on whether it could actually be the GPU doing it or something else. The warranty on the card is still good until June at least. I'd appreciate some help in troubleshooting or where to go from here to figure out the cause. I don't want to send the card into EVGA if it isn't the card doing it.

So I came home from a long day today to find my PC would not turn on. On closer inspection my Corsair ax1200i power supply's self test light was showing red. It was working just fine yesterday and for 3 years since I built the system. I disconnected all cables and did the self test which resulted in fan spin and occasional green light. When plugged all back in, more of the same it wouldn't turn on and the red light kicks on. I just ordered a new seasonic px-1200 and am hoping it solves the issue. If it does not What steps should I go about to diagnose? Does anyone have any wisdom about this particular issue to share? Thanks!

I recently purchased a be quiet pure power 12m 550w psu for its price and modular for my new fractal torrent compact. Turns out it wasnt enough so at best 600 or 650 ill need but I would also like it to be enough for future power hungry upgrades (so maybe at most 750?) but im not sure where to look so I decided to ask before i end up making another wrong purchase. At most under 100usd that is modular and with enough give & length to connect into tight angles and such. Im not sure if i will invest into cable extensions especially with how tight the case can be but im open to that as well, anything to make that fractal case easier to work with. Specs: MSI PRO B650 MA Ryzen 5 7600x Dark Rock Pro 4 32gb 16x2 corsair vengeance ram 4060

This morning I tried turning my PC on but it won't. I tried switching the outlet, flipping the power switch on and off, but all that did was give me a start up light from my motherboard, fans started to turn, and the case lights lit up only for a second like it was about to turn on.

Yesterday I met up with someone to buy a used computer (older pc) was told everything worked fine and there was no issues other than needing a needed a new hard drive. I got home and immediately cleaned it out because it was very dusty. I finished cleaning and went inside to test it and it didn’t power on. Went thru testing different things finally figured out it was a power supply problem. Do y'all think I could have broke the power supply from blowing it out with an air compressor?

I'm building a low-budget PC with some second-hand parts, and some cheap parts. I am aware that some parts are a bit older and not so future-proof. I already built pc's but now I'm on a tight budget and need to choose a power supply that fits in it. My partslist now is: - CPU: Ryzen 5 3600 - GPU: AMD RX 5700xt - MOBO: MSI B450-A PRO MAX II - SSD: Something cheap(er) or something I have lying around. Will never be more than 1.5-2TB in total. - RAM: I have 16gb DDR4 2133 lying around, but am going to upgrade to faster RAM eventually (to 3200 or 3600 MHz probably) I think I need 550 - 600 Watts for the PSU. I have 2 options: 1 - DeepCool PK550D 550W https://www.alternate.be/Deepcool/PK550D-550W-voeding/html/product/1854799 This one is a bit more expensive and lower wattage but in LTT PSU tier list. 2 - Sharkoon SHP Bronze 600 W https://www.alternate.be/Sharkoon/SHP-Bronze-600-W-voeding/html/product/1586775 This one has more wattage but I don't find it on the tier list. I know the brand, but not their PSU's. Which option would be better? Thanks!

Whenever I try to run a game that uses a lot of power, my breaker trips. This started a while ago, but it wasn’t much of a problem until I tried play Cities: Skylines II. I opened up the game, and my breaker tripped within 15 seconds of the menu screen loading. I tested this in multiple different rooms each on different circuits, and it continues to trip the breaker to whatever circuit. These connect to the bedrooms, and these switches are also a different type from all of the others? (ALL switches are General Electric, those ones are just a lighter grey and different shape) Some more information: - Switches are 15 Amps - House is only around 10 years old - PSU supports 750 watts - GPU is 4080 - Only trips on simulation-heavy games (C:S II, Stormworks, etc)

Hi, so I've upgraded my whole build except my GPU which is a 5-year-old 1070 ti. My old PSU was a terrible one in terms of the PSU tier list which is a 520 Watts Seasonic M12II EVO 80+ Bronze (Tier E), although I never had any problems with it. I have upgraded to a 650 Watts Seasonic Focus GX 80+ Gold which is Tier A and a very high quality PSU. My problem is my GPU suddenly had coil whine while it is under load/gaming which is weird since it did not have coil whine on my last build or even if it did, it is not noticeable. The past PCIe cable I've used on my old one is just a normal one-to-one 8-pin PCIe cable. While the new one that came with my new PSU is 1 8-pin to a 2x 8-pin. I have searched the internet that using a direct 8-pin to 8-pin can remove/lessen the coil whine compared to a PCIe cable with a splitter due to power delivery on the power rail or some stuff. I am also planning to upgrade to an RTX 4070 which also uses just 1 8pin so I'm just curious if using a direct 1 to 1 cable is better than the one I have. I'm not knowledgeable on these things so I would like some insights. Thanks! Attached is my current PCIe cable for reference

So I moved from America to Europe and brought my computer with me. I plugged my computer in and my GPU started smoking. I reached out to the company I bought the computer from and it is just over the 1 year warranty timeline, even though NVIDIA does a 3 year warranty on the 4090 the company won't do anything about it. The PSU doesn't have a switch for voltage switching. I'm trying to figure out what the issue is before I purchase a new GPU - or hopefully NVIDIA will honor their warranty but not looking promising from them. Any help would be nice! Here are the specs: OEM INTEL CORE PROCESSOR I9-13900K 8P/16 + 16E 3.00GH Z 36MB CACHE LGA1700 1TB WD SSD BLACK SN770 PCIE GEN4 NVME M.2 SSD WD BLUE 4TB HDD 3.5" SATAIII 5400RPM 256MB CACHE 1TB SAMSUNG 870 QVO-SERIES SATA-III 6 GB/S SSD 16GB DDR5-4800MHZ MEMORY DEEPCOOL CASTLE AIO LIQUID CPU COOLER RETENTION KIT ULTRA-COMPOUND-101 COOLERMASTER THERMAL MASTERGEL MAKER CPU COMPOUND ASUS PRIME Z690-P WIFI ATX DDR5 Wi-Fi 6 2.5GBE LAN 4 PCIE X16 1PCIE X1 3X M.2 SATA/PCIE LGA1700 CEC IN-WIN CB SERIES 1050W 80 PLUS PLATINUM CERTIFIED FULL MODULAR ACTIVE POWER SUPPLY NVIDIA GEFORCE RTX 4090 24GB GDDR6X FOUNDER'S EDITION

I was re-cabling my computer and accidentally dislodged one of the pins from the plastic housing on my 14/10 pin to 24 pin ATX cable. I am able to push the pin all the way back inside the housing, although I am unsure how safe this is. Thankfully this is a modular power supply so I can replace the cable easily, but if possible I would like to reuse this. Can anybody advise? Thanks in advance!

Hi, I want to buy a power supply unit for my PC. I have a lower budget. Is 2nd hand power supply good for my PC? Or should I get a new one instead? I need suggestions for this. My PC specs: 1. Processor: AMD RYZEN 5 3600 2. Mainboard: MSI B450 Gaming Plus Max 3. NVMe: Samsung EVO PLUS 500GB 4. HDD: Seagate 3 TB 5. Graphic Card: Gigabyte GeForce® GTX 970 Extreme 4GD 6. UPS: Powerguard 1200VA Please help.

I want to buy a PSU for my PC. I have a minimal budget of 30-45 dollars. My PC Specs: Processor: AMD RYZEN 5 3600 Mainboard: MSI B450 Gaming Plus Max NVMe: Samsung EVO PLUS 500GB HDD: Seagate 3TB Graphic Card: Gigabyte GeForce® GTX 970 Extreme 4GD Monitor: LG 22MK600M UPS: Powerguard 1200VA I have picked two PSUs but when I looked at the tier list, found one at tier 6. The confusing fact is I heard Tier 5 is the last resort of a gaming rig. I want to play games and perform other tasks like browsing and emailing as well. The PSUs are as follows: Thermaltake Smart BM2 550W Semi-Modular Power Supply (Tier 6) Price - $45.83 Deepcool PK-D Series PK550D Non-Modular 550W 80 Plus Bronze Certified Black Power Supply (No Tier) - $43.33 What do you recommend?

Hey y’all, just looking for some PSU advice here! I’ve got parts coming in for a music production / 3d rendering / gaming build as follows: Intel i9 14900k PNY Verto XLR8 OC RTX 4090 (450w limit) G Skill Ripjaws 2x32GB 6400 Arctic Freezer II 420mm AIO (top exhaust) 2TB Samsung M2 4TB Samsung M2 4TB Samsung SSD 3x 140mm Corsair front intake 1x 140mm Corsair Elite exhaust 4x 120mm Phanteks T30 side intake Arctic 10x fan hub Corsair 7000D Airlflow I’m looking for a reliable PSU for this build even after scouring the net as one does. I’ve got a be quiet! Dark Power 13 1000W on the way as it is an “A tier” PSU and found it at a good price. Since ordering, I read up on voltage spikes and the 1.5x (or +50% GPU) wattage overhead recommendation. My question is: am I good with the 1000w ATX 3.0 Titanium rated PSU that I’ve already purchased? Calculators suggest my components draw a peak 900~1000W, and I could only envision that scenario for rendering (and obv benchmarks) which would be my use case maybe 5% of the time. My understanding is that the ATX 3.0 handles the potential transients even though my particular GPU is limited to 450w. Will the Titanium put me in good hands with its higher efficiency at higher loads or should I opt for 1200/1300/1500W? I have had my eye on the Corsair HX1500i as well as the RM1200x Shift as they are higher wattage, both ATX 3.0, and have a similar 10 year warranty like the be quiet! I have on the way. That said, these are lower efficiency if that matters much; I’ve heard it doesn’t. Thanks for any and every insight! H

Today my PC started to make a whole lot of noise. Sounded like a fan spinning at full speed, but none I had heard before in 2 years of using this system. I also didn't put my PC under a lot of load, just the browser and a very simple game. I checked every single fan in my system and concluded that it's most likely the PSU. So I monitored the Wattage and System Temps, everything seemed fine, nothing above 50°C or 40W. Restarted my Computer because I got quite worried. Opened it up to check all power connections and the GPU's cable wasn't properly plugged in. I restart, thinking all is well and after 10 minutes the fan spins up again under low load. Monitored the system - still nothing out of the ordinary. After 3-5 minutes the fan powered down. Right now I am unsure if this is anything to worry about. My PC had had some hiccups in the last days (freezing, blackscreen probably caused by a broken clamp on the GPU's PCIe Slot. Moved it to the lower PCIe Slot, now it's fine) but I don't think the issues are connected. Here are my specs: CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X RAM: 16GB @3600mHz; DDR4 Mainb.: MSI B550 A-Pro GPU: GTX1060 6GB PSU: Corsair RM750 Any advice is appreciated