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Anyone can help me decide between the two i made? I am from Philippines budget is minimum 3k USD I really like a build that can last at least 5 years or above and play every future or triple A games at least 1440p ultra settings or 4k any settings without any problem or what not. planning to use 1440p monitor 144hz or higher. Should i wait for 7950 XTX?

Budget (including currency): ~$500 CAD Country: Canada Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Various 3D CAD applications and video editing (a bit of KSP after work :P) Other details : - Existing parts to bring over: Quadro P4000, My old TV - Upgrading from i7 2600k with 16G RAM Final Build: Ryzen 5 3600x 16G DDR4 @3600mhz Quadro P4000 1tb PCIe4 NVME WB Black I figured that a few of you might enjoy this build I am quite happy with how it turned out and am writing this post from it right now. I own a company (TimberWolf Cycles) which makes custom high performance bicycles out of wood and so I have more tools for working with wood at my disposal which is why this case ended up being built this way. The purpose of the machine is general CAD work as well as some video editing which I plan to do more of for the business as time goes on. I generally leave my workstation on a desk at my shop but fairly frequently take it home, or (when not limited by COVID) would use it to show prospective clients the design of their custom bike. A laptop able to work hard enough for me would be quite expensive and I don't really need that level of portability. I also own a 2012 MacBook pro which is fine for word processing and emails or meetings when CAD work is not involved so I am not in need of a laptop. A desktop however has too many bits to carry when going place to place which led me to the idea of the "LAN Party Rigs" of my youth . The original "THE RIG" was just a regular ATX Case with a handle bolted on the top and a screen bolted to the side with a bent steel cover slipped over the screen when left in the shop. The was great! because I could just grab the handle and toss the machine in the car on the way somewhere. Problem is, it was HEAVY! Like 4 2010-era enterprise grade hard disks and a 750W PSU heavy plus the steel case, the screen, the surge protector I crammed inside, yada yada. It was also getting old and while the I7 2600k still packs a pretty good punch for these workloads, NVME was out of the question and PCIE 2 was a bit of a bottleneck for the Quadro P4000 I had acquired the year before to replace my aging (not well) Quadro 4000. I debated just refiling the case with new components but to really maximize the benefits of the upgrade, decided to give it some flair! I decided to build THE RIG MKII the other way around essentially. Rather than mount the screen to the case, I would mount the case to the screen. This let me shrink the case, and use a bigger screen in the form of my modest Samsung 30" TV that I didn't need and is bright and has a nice wide viewing angle which will be helpful for showing things to customers. I had to modify the TV Stand to tilt the TV up a bit so it would be comfortable to view from a desk, and also move the centre of the support back to keep it under the centre of mass of the combined unit. The case itself would have to stay thin for this to work out well so I chose an unconventional but very practical component arrangement that resulted in a 1U thick case. I didn't want the machine to be loud so commercial 1U PSUs were out. I ended up dismantling a PSU and placing the fan adjacent to the circuit board to draw air out of the case and over the heat sinks. I left space for an ATX board beside that but I would argue there would be very little reason to ever put a full ATX board in this thing and there would be no way to use the extra PCIe slots anyway. As it is, I use the X16 slot and one X4 slot for my WIFI card (I know you can get boards with WIFI obviously but this one came up for sale and the guy tossed in a WIFI card which actually is essentially a riser for m.2 letting me put in a wireless AX later if I like. Both slots are obviously connected via riser cables. The GPU which is really the heart of this machine is turned on its side overtop of the expansion part of the board with the fan facing the back of the case. This lets it draw its own fresh air and gives it its own exhaust. It can run full bore in this crazy tight case without warming up the case much at all. A sweet 1U CPU cooler with heat pipes keeps the profile low and also draws in fresh air directly but exhausts into the case. The PSU fan (which sucks air out of the case) is sized for a higher flow rate so even at max CPU fan speed the case is below ambient pressure. There are two small intakes near the VRMs that draw in make up air and keep those cool. All said and done, the GPU idles at 35C in a 21C room and the the CPU at 39C and each peak at 79C when fully loaded so I am very happy with the airflow design. The goal was never overclocking and the temperatures are very reasonable. The other motherboard temperatures including the PCIE4 NVME drive sit very steady at 40C to 45C no matter the load. The consistency of this temperature is optimal for NVME drive life. But what about shielding in a wooden case?! Most of you wouldn't likely care but I figured since I had unboxed the PSU (removed its shielding) and am building a nice stable workstation, I should shield both the PSU area of the case and the MB area. I did this with a combination of stainless wire mesh on the intakes, a fan grill on the main exhaust, and a lot of copper foil tape with conductive adhesive. I also used a more open mesh between the PSU and the MB to ensure that dust was less likely to collect inside and more likely to collect on the intake screens where I can vacuum it (remember I build wooden bikes so there is lots of dust at times!). The case is made of poplar core plywood with mahogany veneer and closed with MANY tiny brass screws which electrically connect the shielding. Inside the PSU area I did the other 120VAC connections including the leads to power the TV and a standard household socket on the side for my second monitor at the office, or a laptop charger or whatever. On the top of the case, I put the on-button (a button that used to be the engine start button in my old car made from a defrost button painted red) and the totally unnecessary RGB button from the PSU. Also on top of the case I put two front panel USB3 ports for thumb drives and a marine panel mount quickcharge 3.0 module wired into the 12V from the PSU. The Molex connector to power that was harvested from the ancient 128mb hard drive that I found had escaped many a tech purge . A very rare external port to add is found on the bottom which is a SATA3 data and power connector that I use with a cable I made up to connect a standard internal type optical drive if I want to burn a DVD for the old folks in my life etc. If you have any questions or want to build something like this yourself, jump in on this thread and I would love to chat (yes I also use an Orbweaver Chroma for CAD shortcuts... Sacrilege!) Tossed in a pic of the latest bike in progress for the the curious among you

So i wanted to know if this concept will work or not. Lets say i have a mac mini and a ipad pro m1 Now I want to confirm whether this'll work. Setup- Ipad, mac mini, magic keyboard and mouse/apple pencil, power cable, luna display/sidecar Usecase- I want to use a mac mini like a server or a remote desktop. In few months i'll be in my college CSE student. So i want to use the ipad over local network in the campus. Like use the wifi AP over the campus to connect to mac mini at my hostel room through the ipad i am using (lets say under the radius of 500m) at my classroom, and mirror the sceen output of my mac mini to ipad over local mesh network of WiFi AP (which is all over the campus). I dont care for latency (few ms are just fine but not few seconds) as long as the work gets done. The idea is too keep the mac mini at home and use the ipad as mirrored display over network. As the modern mesh networks can probably manage at least 10 Megabytes locally, i dont think it'll be a problem to use the ipad over the local network with manageable latency. The only reason i want to do this is because of the "Mini LED " screen of ipad. But you may say buy a MAcbook 14inch but not everyone has the bucks to buy. As a plus i get an EXTRA Ipad for maybe taking notes witha REALLLY GOOOD screen for watching content, and also i have the mac mini to do the "heavy" lifting like code compiling. being the user of a laptop which takes 20 mins to boot windows running crap, i definately wont mind a mac that takes 20 mins to compile code instead of 10. The way i thought to use it is like after getting readied in the morning, just start the mac mini connect it to the ipad then continue the class, wrap the setup after class and done.

Hi there i was wondering if someone could help me out with a personal project. Im trying to get a working version of Linux to run on my Samsung galaxy s8. Is it even possible to run a standalone Linux OS on a phone or do you have to use an emulator. I tried using termux to install linux but every time the install finishes and i run the "start-ubuntu19. Sh" command it just tells me that the specified command is not found. If any one has some suggestions for me i would very much appreciate it.

Hi Guys, Has anyone succeeded in building a portable DIY pc? I found a few vlogs in youtube and tried in forum but found nothing. I want to know that if any of you guys built one? I am truly a very beginner to pc building and never did one before. So, it is upto everyone when comes to technical part In my opinion objectives/advantages of DIY Portable machine are as follows: 1. Cost effective (It should be relatively cheaper than gaming laptop) 2. relatively few compromises (Even though there are gaming laptops, the issue is unless you have money to spend around 2k, you have to compromise on desktop class cpu &gpus) 3. Upgradability (Based on my knowledge, DIY ones should be upgradable) 4. Flexibility (The choice of building own pc) etc. (Let me know for other advantages ) Challanges: 1. PSU but compact ones are available 2. CASE, mostly need to build on own (CNC cutting may required to build a perfect ones) 3. Water cooling is next to impossible, so is overclocking difficulties 4. Experimental : Trying to it in a normal laptop bag 5. Finding a low voltage/ultra slim monitor (Again to you guys to let me know for other challanges involved) If anyone had built already one, please tell about challanges that you had faced and how did you achieve it? Stay Awesome