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Found 11 results

  1. Hey, I wanted to write something more or less useful for other people as my first post. So I wrote this little how-to for wrapping a large cable with paracord. I have not yet seen anyone do this on a PSU, so maybe this idea might help other people. (Though it probably has already been done by someone.) I have a PSU with the infamous "ketchup & mustard" cables. My initial idea was to make new sleeved cables, however I need to do something about the 24-pin, since it is not modular and as the 24-pin is already fairly long i don't want to use extensions. Extensions also wouldn't cover the cable coming from the PSU in the bottom of the case. And after my first PSU arrived dead, and it's replacement broke within the first 3 months, I don't want to re-sleeve the 24-pin since this would void my remaining warranty in an obvious way. So I was looking for a non-invasive, reversable mod. If i don't want to sleeve the individual cables, I could still wrap the bundle of cables as a whole. In order to do this I used black Paracord 550 (Type III), but you could use a smaller type for a less thick and denser wrap, though it will be more work. I used a fairly simple wrapping technique, which creates an interesting spiraling pattern around the cable in a single color. There are other techniques which will yield different patterns, but as I said, i think this is one of the easiest knots, so that's what I used for this proof-of-concept. It took me about 3 episodes of suits and a tech showdown, or about 3 hours with some pauses to complete the wrapping. I used a piece of 25 meters to do this and was left with about 10 meters, but better to err on the side of caution. If you use a thinner diameter you will obviously need more than 15 meters. This is how it turned out: And how it looks inside of a case after installation: Caveats: This makes the cables stiffer, so they are harder to rout afterwards. This will make the already fairly large bundle even thicker, so make sure you have enough space to rout the cable later on. You don't want to pull the paracord to thigthly, but it shouldn't be loose either. Practice first to get a feeling of how to tie the knot consistently. If you also want to sleeve the other cables, use the same material and manufacturer. Products may vary from one vendor to another. So if you want to copy this mod, you basically only need a long piece of paracord (or whatever you want to use). I heated the end of the paracord with a lighter, to prevent it from fraying. I started at the end of the cable that is attached to the PSU. For this knot you will only need one end of the paracord, so i lay one end along the cable, so it will lie inside of the wrap later (I forgot to make a photo of this, but I hope it is clear what I mean ). With the other end start making knots. To do a knot you basically only need to twist the paracord once, pull it over the end of the cable and then tighten it, as shown in the picture. You obviously don't want to over-tighten the knot to the point were you'd crush the cables or pull them out of the connector, but it shouldn't be loose either. I usually pull in the direction opposite to the direction in which the paracord is running, so the knot (which will form the spiral) is nice and short. But don't worry, first your top two rows will never look right because the next rows are needed to keep these in position, and second you can always easily undo and redo the knot if it don't like it. Work slowly and be careful to tighten each row with a similar amount of force. Make sure the paracord is not twisted, this will show later and result in irregular knots! If you get the feeling that the rows are too far apart, don't pull harder on each knot, instead pull the knots you have already done down to the base in groups of 2-4 rows. The trickiest part to get right is the connector. Depending on how fast the cable is widening some rows might slip over those before, which will look crappy. I circumvented this problem by making two triangles out of cardboard which i kept place with tape. You don't need as much tape as I used. I removed the tape on the bottom after I wrapped up to the connector, so you can't see it. The cardboard will still stay in place. To end the wrap, I pulled the end of the paracord below the last few rows. This would have been easiest with a large needle, but I used the back of a knife to pull it through which worked fine too. Simply trim the excess and you are done. (also no photos, because I needed both of my hands to do this.) So tell me what you think of this idea! Do you like how it looks? Do you see any problems with this modification? Do you have suggestions for other types of wraps? I'll be redoing the wrapping sometime in the future as the black of the cable doesn't match neither the black nor the diameter of the sleeving i ordered for the other cables. But this will have to wait for at least 2 months.
  2. I'm soon to be embarking on a rig rebuild and I want to get some nice looking sleeved cables. CableMod doesn't have compatible cables, and I'd like not to use extensions (though I won't rule them out.) I will not sleeve the PSU myself, I'm not ready to take on a task like that in terms of time and concentration. I'm in New York and I want something with a black/red sleeve pattern, where can I find compatible cables?
  3. Last year, I posted how I was impressed with Razer's sleeving of their mice and looking for something similar. Recently, I ordered some cord samples from paracordgalaxy.com and thought I'd share my findings: Here we have a standard USB braided mouse cable (Mionix NAOS), 425 paracord, ⅛" shock cord, and 550 paracord. Owners of newer Razer mice have braided cables much closer to the ⅛" shock cord than the 425 paracord. Some suggested it was 550 paracord, and while the weave is tighter than the standard braided mouse cable or 425 paracord, its diameter is slightly larger (~1.5mm). So I've found my sleeving grail? Not so fast.. Shock cord is basically bungee cord with an elastic rubber core for tie-downs and whatnot. Seems very difficult to work with, even in the useless 6" sample length I received. The individual rubber core cords break easily and try to grab each other when attempting to remove them. The bottom portion in the white picture and top portion in the black picture show part of the cord that still has its rubber core intact. Ideally, I'd like to try a coreless ⅛" shock cord, or a 3mm coreless paracord with the 550 weave (they're probably the same thing). I don't think shock cord is worth working with, because at usable lengths, the core would be even more of a pain in the ass to remove, but I still think it looks and feels much much better than the 425 that comes on most braided mice cables. What do you folks think? Too much hassle? Maybe worth looking into a coreless version?
  4. Hello, I already have some sites but since its my first time attempting to do custom sleeving, i was wondering which sites would you guys recommend buying the sleeving tools and such/ paracord? I live in belgium. Thanks
  5. Table of Contents 01. 2013-APR-30: Why Dremel When You Can Drill? 02. 2013-MAY-01: Progress On Back Panel - First Fitting 03. 2013-MAY-06: The PSU Mount 04. 2013-MAY-20: Modding/Sleeving the PSU & The HDD Tower 05. 2013-MAY-21: PSU Sleeving - Continued 06. 2013-MAY-22: Making a Custom Fan Controller 07. 2013-MAY-29: Fan Controller & PSU Finished 08. 2013-MAY-29: Back Panel Progress 09. 2013-MAY-30: Reservoir Modding 10. 2013-JUN-23: Complete! (For Now) PDF Version of this Build Log http://alpenwasser.net/repository/files/zeus.pdf Prologue For those few who have actually read the entire introductory novella for HELIOS, don't worry, this won't be nearly as long ;). The purpose of this rig will be to serve as our new server/HTPC and possibly do some BOINC computing. It will be placed in our living room in a sideboard, which is why it's not in a bigger case. The Name Zwieback Exceeding Useful Specifications. Because: Why not? Zwieback is a hilarious word, and in English doubly so :lol: (I don't know why I think that, I just do.) Main PC Guts M/B: MSI Z77A-GD65CPU: Intel i7 2600kRAM: TBDGPU: OnboardSSD: Intel 335 60 GBHDD's: 4 x WD RE4 2 TBHDD's: 3 x WD Red 3 TBPSU: BeQuiet 550 WCase: Fractal Design R4 w/ window side panelOne thing missing here is a dedicated audio card. I will be running the optical SPDIF from theM/B to a Denon AVR-4308. The rig will mainly be used for watching movies, so it does not require the best of the best with regards to audio. If sound quality does indeed prove to be lacking (my dad is quite the audiophile, so he will surely inform me of that), I can always add it later, using a flexible PCI-E riser card (see below for why that would be necessary). W/C Parts CPU Block: EK Supreme HF Acetal/CopperPump: Aquacomputer Aquastream StandardRes: Aquacomputer Aquainlet blue anodizedRad Fans: 3 x SP120 quietRadiator: Alphacool NexXxos UT60 360 mmModdingThe R4 is quite a roomy case and would have ample room for an internal 360 radiator in 60 mm thickness with some minor modifications to the front. However, since seven HDD's take up quite a bit of room, that's not an option. Therefore, I will be replacing the entire back side of the case with a custom panel modded to fit the radiator (next to the back I/O panel). Since I won't need any add-on cards, besides possibly an audio card (see above), this should work nicely. Pictures As with HELIOS, I will be hosting the pics on my server, hyperlinking each picture in my posts to its full resolution version. To get a custom resolution, for whichever reason, use: http://www.alpenwasser.net/images/w000/h000/imagename.extensionWhere w000 and h000 are the desired width and height in pixels (you do need the preceeding "h"and/or "w" though). It's sufficient to use one of the two. If you use both, the image will be resized proportionally and the pixel values given will be treated as maxima.
  6. I've been asked how I did my sleeving and what guides, methods etc I used for it, both on the forums, pictures of my build, facebook, my buildlog etc. I know there are plenty of guides to normal sleeving using heatshrink, but not that many for heatshrinkless, especially with paracord. The ones that are around often use methods that require some pretty expensive or hard to find tools that I think are just not necessary and a waste of time and money. Because of the lack of guides, and the amount I have been asked, I am considering making a guide on the method that I use for all of my cables. So, would you like me to make a guide for it? (The guide will use text and pictures. I'll probably take pictures of a lot of things so you get a visual representation of what I mean)
  7. Which one do you prefer? I'm asking also because i'm not sure myself :rolleyes: Suggestions and tips welcome ;D
  8. Hey guys, I've just finished sleeving my first ever cable. I was hoping that you could tell me how you think I did and what I can improve on. I used a heatshrinkless paracord method that I learned from Lutro0 customs. The quality of the pictures isn't brilliant as my camera is pretty bad, but I did the best that I could. EDIT: Here's the video for it.
  9. Hello everyone, I thought some of you might find this video I made handy. This is not a how to, this is just the best way I've found to remove pins from their connector blocks in order to start sleeving. I'm quite aggressive with some of the pins in this video and I would advise you to take it easy if your trying this for the first time. I hope you find this guide useful and happy sleeving! :)
  10. Hey all, just though I'd share my first attempt at sleeving a power supply. Decided to go the paracord route without heatshrink as it was significantly cheaper (50ft lengths for $5 on ebay + free postage) and still looks good imo. To save on buying tools I just used staples to remove the pins on all cables which actually worked surprisingly well. So far I've done the four 6+2 pin pci-e connectors, the 8 pin motherboard connector and the 24 pin. I'm not going to bother with the molex/sata connectors as they look alright to begin with and you can't really see them in my rig however I will eventually get around to sleeving fan cables, front panel audio, power and reset etc cables. Anyway, here are some pictures, let me know what you think.
  11. Hi, I have Paracord sleeving coming in the mail, and in anticipation, I prepared my cables for sleeving (i.e. removed the oem sleeving) and I came across a little hiccup in my plan to sleeve my SATA power cables. I have no Idea how I can sleeve the wires without interfering with the in-line connectors whilst maintaining the heatshrinkless look. Has anybody who is reading this, successfully achieved this goal? If so, how do I do it? I've already searched the web, and came up with nothing as of yet. I will keep on looking though. Thanks in advance!