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I have a z97-p motherboard with i5-4690k and Nepton 240m liquid cooler. I want to upgrade my pc wih ASUS ROG STRIX Z390-E GAMING and i7-9700KF. Will the Nepton 240M be compatible with the new motherboard, because on the box it says CPU Socket Intel LGA 2011 / 1366 / 1156 / 1155 / 1150 / 775?

As the title says, Building a New System and I am little bit confused about these two AIO's Which one is better in terms of cooling.

Hi mates Last week I did a custom built and used Thermaltake P5 case. Didn't do any loop, instead I used Cooler Master Nepton 240M and replace the tubing in order for the pump to reach the CPU. I cut the original tubing, replaced with silicone ones and did the refill ensuring as much as possible that there is no air trapped. Installed it yesterday and installed windows. Once I got into windows I noticed the radiator fans started to spin really fast. Installed CAM software and guess what, yes you guessed it, the CPU was at 97 degree Celsius. What would be the reason for that? I have a couple of guesses like: - the pump does not have enough power to circulate the water due to longer tubing - a lot of air trapped when refilling - might sound stupid, but radiator installed in a lower position than the pump? Any advice and info is highly appreciated. Thank you in advance.

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4GHZ 8MB CPU Cooler: CoolerMaster Nepton 240M Dual Fan Liquid Cooler RL-N24M-24PK (warranty until 2019) Ram: Kingston HyperX Fury 1866MHz CL10 16GB Kit 2 unit (total 32GB) GPU: Asus GTX970 DC II Strix 4GB OC DDR5 Motherboard: Asus Z97-PRO 4790K 4.0 Power Supply: CoolerMaster V750S 750W 80+ Gold Modular (warranty until 2019) Hard Drive: SAMSUNG 850 EVO 500GB SATA 3 External Hard Drive: 2 unit external Hard Drive(Seagate 300GB and Buffalo 1TB) My CPU Temp is up to 88 C/ 176 F after 12 hours of normal usage( watching movie, Surfing internet, No Gamming) I suspect is the Nepton 240M Pump is not working, as the CPU fan is 0rpm, or maybe my motherboard has a problem. Should I reapply the CPU thermal paste? Please advise what should I do, which component should I start to isolate first? Asus Dual Intelligent Processors .mp4 CPU-Z.txt DxDiag.txt

Hello I got a Gigabyte GA-x99-UD4 motherboard and a 5820k CPU being cooled by a coolermaster nepton 240m which has a PWM pump. That pump is plugged into the CPU Fan plug and when i want to set the speed in the bios it wont let me, it just always runs at 2800rpm but i got this annoying noise coming from it, so i wanted to see if i just plug it into the cpu Opt plug what will it do. It ran nice and quite at 2600 rpm but i had this weird problem sometimes when i reboot the pc it just thought there was nothing on the cpu opt plug so no current was running through it and the pump was off, which made the cpu run hot good thing all the fans around the case started spinning really loud otherwise i wouldnt have noticed it. is there a program that makes me controll the pump speed other then the horrible gigabyte program? i tried fanspeed but it seems like it doesnt recognize much on the x99 platform. cheers.

Hey there, So about a month ago I bought a new Cooler Master Nepton 240M AIO cooler for my system. It's cooling a Xeon E3 1231-V3 on an Asus Z97-K motherboard. This is a great performing cooler and is advertised with silence. I've heard great things about the Silencio fans which come with the unit, though mine are not so silent. When the fans reach a certain level of RPM's, a VERY audible rattling noise can be heard. I have confirmed the issue to be with the fans and not the pump simply by blocking the fans when the noise was present. As the fans were blocked by my finger, thus causing them to not spin, the noise stopped. I pull my finger out, the fans spin up and BAM... noise. It's worse than a baby playing with a rattler. The fans are both connected to the PWM splitter that came with the cooler. That splitter is plugged into the Chassis_1 fan header on the motherboard, right next to the CPU fan header. I have tried both push and pull configurations with the fans on the radiator and there was no difference. The noise has been appearing ever since about day 3 of owning the cooler. Is there an easy fix to this? I really don't want to have to take the cooler back as it is a MASSIVE inconvenience. My Build: http://au.pcpartpicker.com/p/PJpnYJ EDIT: The problem with the fans has been fixed, but there is a similar, yet significantly less audible, rattling noise coming from the pump.

Since installing my Nepton 240m cooler I have been having occasional issues with my cpu temps where they have been upwards of 10-30 degrees C above normal idle temps, let alone when playing games (csgo and even LoL) where sometimes they have reach ridiculously high temps of 80+ degrees C where I have had to turn my system off. When running properly I get idle temps at around high 20's to low 30's and under load sits around 40-50. When however my issue does occur, simply shutting down my computer and turn it on straight away resolves the issue instantly dropping the cpu core temps by 30+ degrees back to their normal temps. This issue never occurred before installing the new all in one water cooler and I was wondering what the issue may be. The 2 fans are connected to the cpu fan header (run perfectly all the time). The pump is connected to the cpu opt header. I could be wrong but i think the pump seems to stop or not be running in the first place when the issue occurs. Could it be a faulty pump? Would that raise the temps by such a large amount even at idle though? Thanks in advance for your help.

The last thing I have to choose in my new build is the CPU Cooler. I'm hesitating between the Corsair H105, the Corsair H100i GTX or the Cooler Master Nepton 240M. I think the H100i GTX, I don't need the ''i'' because my motherboard (Asus Maximus Vii Hero)already have good fan controls. I will be cooling a Intel i7 4790K. They are all the same price where I live except the Cooler Master is 10$ more. If I would choose the Corsair I would change the fans for sure but the Cooler Master has quiet stock fans, so not sure what to do. For sure I like the feature of the H100i with the application so you can change the color of the Corsair logo on the pump. Open to suggestions. No matter what the choice I will make is it better to change the thermal paste that comes with it to get better cooling performance? Thanks guys!

Hi there! Just a quick poll/question. I currently own a Cooler Master Nepton 240M with two additional Cougar PWM fans mounted for a Push/Pull configuration. I have been looking to get the Swiftech H240-X though as I would like to eventually do a custom loop with a pair of 980s. I am currently getting about 28C idle at 4GHz with an Intel 5930K. Would I see a performance increase/on par with the Swiftech H240-X in terms of temperature and noise? I don't have a way to measure the noise on this current setup but it is definitely louder than I like. So the end question being, would I be better served overall by the H240-X? (Let me know if I should add more information) Thanks! Longbow

I need help! I wanted to ask about the R5 and Nepton 240M compatibility by putting the radiator on the bottom of the case, as this would be good to keep the computer silent and have good airflow by not putting the radiator on the top or side so putting on the bottom would be perfect! The radiator is the compatible fit but i don't know if the tubing actually reaches the bottom of the case. Anything will help, if not compatible what are some other radiators that are 240mm and have tubing that is long enough. If needed: Graphics Card: EVGA GeForce 960 SSC Motherboard: MSI Z97-G55 These may be important.

My 4770k @ 4.3GHs and 1.25V and idle temps at 45-50C with room temp at 30C. Is that ok?

Hi All, I recently managed to save up to start on my dream build. But I since hit into a bit of issues that needs some second opinions. This is by no means my first build but I would call it my first enthuasist build. I am unable to provide screenshots as I am at work while writing this. Specs as follows:- CPU: Intel i7-4790K RAM: Kingston HyperX BEAST 16GB Dual Channel Kit (HX324C11T3K2/16) GPU: MSI GTX 980 4G Lightning Mobo: Asus Maximus VI Gene (Latest BIOS: 1603, BIOS updated with no previous processor using Asus USB BIOS Flashback button, original BIOS was initial release) PSU: CoolerMaster V850 HDD: Toshiba Q Series Pro 128GB SSD Case: Corsair 350D Case fans: 3x CoolerMaster JetFlo 120 PWM (Two in front of the casing as intake and one in the rear as exhaust, fronts run at 1200rpm and exhaust is purely PWM with 1600rpm average) CPU Cooler: CoolerMaster Nepton 240M in pull configuration OS: Windows 7 Home Premium x64 One of the first issues I encountered was the inability for the PC to boot up with the RAM set to its maximum XMP profile which is profile 1 with DDR3-2400 CL11-13-14 @1.65V. I was only able to boot it three times out of the ten times I selected it, most of the time it would display a Q-Code of 55. As a result, I am only able to run it at its second profile of DDR3-2133 CL11-13-13 @1.6V. I have read about issues of the IMC of the 4790K having issues with higher rated RAM and as such is a common problem. I have tried raising the System Agent voltage to 1.1V from 0.836V but it still won't boot. Even if it does boot with the first profile, there is gremlin like behaviour ie. the keyboard would stop functioning and from a cold boot the same cycle persists until the motherboard says overclocked failed in the BIOS startup. I have ran Memtest x86 on both the stock JEDEC DDR3-1600 speeds and DDR-2133 and there are no errors. What was weird was that I was originally able to install Windows 7 on the machine on its first boot with the 2400MHz profile after the training mode and the two reboots during the installation was successful. Second of the issues is CPU heat related. While I was hoping for a good overclocker, I am somewhat satisfied with the chip I have gotten. On first boot (cleared CMOS), the stock VCORE was 1.088V. Basically all the settings were left on auto, as a result the final VCORE after booting into Windows 7 was 1.264V. This was at stock speeds of 4.0GHz with the turbo mode activated for 4.4GHz. Since this was a fairly new build I wasn't going to try and kill it that early on in its life, the only overclocking I did was to see how low of a VCORE the CPU can use for higher multipliers. The motherboard auto sets a setting of 1.299V VCORE for a multiplier of 47x when booted into Windows. The only stress test I ran was Intel XTU for 5 minutes (like I said earlier, not trying to kill it but to get a feel for the thing). This was wise because even with my aftermarket Nepton water cooler, it was reaching a max of 79C-84C on stock speeds based on info from XTU and HWInfo64. I have since exchanged coolers between the runnings of the test as the first one was having an annoying pump rattle. And the results are still the same. Ambient temps mind you in my part of the world are about 33C average on a good day (tropical weather) but I run it in an air conditioned room with an average of 24C-27C. So I wasn't expecting much in terms of idle temps but 41C average on idle with the side case panel and 39C average without the side case panel is really not much the reason of buying a liquid cooling solution. Average temps on gaming load are 60-70C. I have checked the spread of the thermal paste twice on both coolers and they covered most of the IHS properly and tightened the pump adequately without damaging the board. I am using the stock thermal paste from the cooler for the time being but the temperatures should not be getting this high. I have an older rig in the room with a E6600 with a stock cooler and el cheapo generic thermal paste and it is staying at 35C on idle alone and 56C on casual load. Since this was a backup rig it sat in a corner of the room with poor ventilation and an open side case panel in an enclosed space under a desk and quieter with generic case fans and regular HDD. Of course, the E6600 has an iridium solder instead of that TIM that Intel currently uses but still. I basically have a grace period of one week on the parts I purchased for a one on one exchanged. If the problem is the processor is kinda hard for them diagnose for overheating or memory problems and being an expensive processor I highly doubt they will be very willing to give me a new one. So if anyone here can give me a hand, it will be much appreciated.

So i recently upgraded to a Nepton 240m and after installing the computer would not post and would go through a cycle of beeping then restarting (which i later found to mean a power error). I was just wondering if any one has had this problem with a intel bracket for the 240m and how they avoided it. My mother board is a GB z97x-UD3H and the case an N600 (incase it was the cutout itself). Any help or insight would be greatly appreciated Thanks

Hello, I recently purchased a cooler master nepton 240m to replace the stock cooler on my fx-8350, the main reason I got this rather then the 280L is because it was supposed to be quieter but when I put it in my system I noticed this noise coming from the cpu block/pump and I was wondering if this was normal or if mine is faulty, its fine if it is normal because my headset cancels it out but if im not getting the silence I payed for... well... you know... I want to get what I payed for... thankyou

These are the water coolers i was looking at. H105, CM Seidon 240M, CM Nepton 240M (Is this one good? It seems much quieter in terms of db in the stats than the others),and CM Eisberg 120L Prestige. My pc pp list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/bjCwjX I'm also debating on picking the Asus pa248q or the benq xl2420z so if you could help me choose and explain why thatd be great! Thanks!

NCIX: http://bit.ly/1rJ7Vx3 Amazon: http://geni.us/c3i Cooler Master keeps telling us that their Nepton 240M is going to blow us away thanks to its pump, waterblock, and... and its included fans? Whaaaa? Let's see if the numbers back that up...